Mag FAQ [Archive] - Paintball Forums

tewes

09-26-2001, 03:33 PM

Q: Can Mags be run on Co2?

A: Yes you can run an Automag on C02, in fact when Mags were designed, nitro wasn't even in use. Quoted from the Automag manual:

DO NOT USE A SIPHON TANK ON YOUR PAINTBALL MARKER!!!
Liquid CO2 in this paintball marker will cause all the active o-rings to leak and the velocity will not be controllable. Make sure the tank valve is feeding air into the paintball marker fast enough when rapid firing; make sure the valve is completely open. Paintball markers that dramatically lose velocity often have this problem. For vertical tank and remote vertical tank setups, always use standard tanks that have been weight checked to ensure proper fills. Horizontal tanks should be antisiphon.
Contact your local dealer for information on an anti-siphon tank.
The vertical bottle adapter is an accessory for the 68AUTOMAG and a standard feature on the MINIMAG. It helps reduce the possibility of the paintball marker “going liquid” by mounting the standard air tank vertically. When using CO2, steps must be taken to keep liquid from entering the valve. The most effective setup we can recommend is a full size expansion chamber
vertically mounted in front of the trigger frame and a remote tank. The hose would run from the A.I.R. valve to a vertical adapter mounted on the bottom of the rail, in front of the trigger frame. The expansion chamber screws into the adapter just like a tank. A hose would then run from the bottom of the chamber
to remote tank positioned vertically on your back (in a pouch, on your belt?).

Many people who do not like remote tanks mount their tanks horizontally off the bottom of the trigger frame or main rail. Any horizontal tank should be antisiphon.
Anti-siphon tanks are tailored to specific adapters. They are setup for, and cannot be interchanged with other CA adapters. Remote tanks should be standard (Neither siphon nor anti-siphon). Overall, remote tanks are more effective because they are vertical. Keep in mind
that no setup is 100% effective in keeping liquid CO2 out.
Below 50oF freezing will still occur, even with an expansion chamber and remote. If you plan on playing in cold weather, seriously consider a high pressure system.

If you are going to use C02, don't play in cold weather (below 50) and the best setup would be an x chamber with a remote. You could just have a gas throu grip, but there are nice x-chambers (the ACI 6 stage sub zero is highly recommended). The gun (if you chose not to use an x-chamber) will not be damaged. You'll just have to repair more 0-rings more often, because c02 is bad on 0-rings. But o-rings are no biggy. and you might have to clean your internals a little more than the nitro users. also no biggie. If you really like your gas through grip, and want to get the same proformance as an x-chamber, you can put the X-chamber where you normally would put your tank (the horizontal ASA), and then have the remote running directly into the x-chamber.

(Helped by Lorquas)

tewes

09-26-2001, 03:39 PM

Q: What are some of the better barrels for a Mag?

A:

1. The Smart Parts Freak System
2. J&J Ceramic
3. Dye Boomstick
4. Dye Stainless
5. Smart Parts Tear Drop

(Not neccessarily in that order)

banzaimf

09-26-2001, 03:45 PM

Q: What do I need to run a Mag on co2 (cause hpa/nitro is not readily available in my area,etc)

A: Either an anti-syphon bottle, a remote setup or a vertical bottle adapter. DO NOT use a anti-syphon tank and remote together. It makes a syphon remote whice is bad for most markers, including Mags.

The cheapest in a vertical bottle adapter. It comes standard on Minimags. It works best when the weather is warm and you are using a larger tank because it is harder to chill.

The 2nd best way is to use an anti-syphon tank mounted in a horizontial duckbill adpater or drop forward/cradle system.

The most expensive but best perfomance comes from using a remote hose from the tank to an expansion chamber mounted on the marker. The ACI Sub-Zero expansion chambers perform very well www.pbreview.com/66/1/0/

tewes

09-26-2001, 04:47 PM

Q: Do I need a regulator on my Mag?

A: All AGD marker are made to regulate the incoming 800 psi air pressure to 400 psi. They have a built in regulator at the back of the marker that is the heart of the AutoMag system. So you do not need a regulator. Although it would serve and a good foregrip, screwed into a vertical bottle adapter, and you could adjust the incoming psi to conserve a small amount of air.

EDDMAN

09-26-2001, 05:15 PM

Q: What upgrades should i put on my mag? a new on off assembly? ANS phase 2 bolt and charger?

A: If you want to upgrade your valve, go retro, any non-AGD internals wear out quickly and are a waste of money. AGD is one of the few companies that are constantly upgrading their products and have conducted extensive testing. If their design can be improved, AGD would have done it and offered it as an upgrade for free.

Visit here to get an idea of the testing that goes on in AGD labs:
automags.org/resource/tech/tomstech/index.shtml

Halliday

09-28-2001, 03:42 AM

Q: Can I get my Boo-Yah frame repaired?

A: Boo-Yah owners fear not your trigger frames can be serviced through:

Mako Paintball Products
4041 Dupage ave
Lombard Illinois 60148
tel # 630 705 9293 speak to Dave or Kim

Apparently these guys came up with the electronics and actually manufactured the frames, the original Boo-Yah owner just handled the marketing aspect and screwed over these guys too. Upon speaking to Dave though, he has a limited guarantee on the boo-yah trigger frame and will honor all servicing, he will soon have a website up and he seems to be a real sincere guy.

-originally posted by Tony

For an online manual, check out the link below!

eLCD Manual (http://makostorm.freehosting.net/photo.html)

Magadeth

10-08-2001, 03:13 PM

Q: Are RT valves banned?

A: No the RT valve has not been outlawed by any major Paintball organization.

Q: What does an ANS Valve/Hurricane/Magic Box do?

A: They do nothing for your gun. They just have an oversized air passage, that does not matter because the AGD air passage already allows as much air as is needed to pass through. The moral of the story, keep the AGD internals stock!

SIGSays

10-20-2001, 02:54 PM

Q: i've look at my A.N.S. Regulator and i've noticed that the velocity adjusters are just like the mags........

A: AGD let ANS borrow the design a few years back!

Halliday

10-21-2001, 07:13 PM

Q: Why are RT Mags sometimes banned at local fields?

A: Because they are capable of a very high ROF, and this may cause field owners to want to limit the firepower that could be thrown at renters and newbie players.

ciaran.mooney

10-25-2001, 07:27 AM

Q : I live in Europe and phoning the USA is very costly, is there a AGD service that is within Europe?

A : Yes there is! And I only found this by accident.

Airgun Designs Europe
Sprawls Farm
West Burgholt
Colchester
Essex
CO6 3DN
U.K.

To contact them by telephone, you must call during regular business hours:

Office hours:
Monday through Friday, 9:00-11:30 am - 1:00-5:30 pm (GMT)
Office Telephone: +44 (1206)240831
Office Fax: +44 (1206)240821

Tech Support hours:
Monday through Friday, 11:00am - 4:30 pm (GMT)
Tech Support Telephone: +44 (1206)243450

Puddleglum

10-25-2001, 04:11 PM

Q: What are the Trigger Frames available for my Mag?

A:
1. http://powerlyte.com/productimages/product50.jpg
This is a POWERLYTE Double Trigger Frame. Available at www.powerlyte.com for $89.00

Puddleglum

10-25-2001, 04:33 PM

2. Then there is the single trigger frame.http://powerlyte.com/productimages/product49.jpg

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:11 PM

there are too many trigger frames to list and it's not a faq

but oh well....... i will contribute

the kapp grooved trigger frame

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:12 PM

we have the booyaah or mako's

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:14 PM

the single trigger benchies

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:15 PM

and if your gonna start one you should finish answering the question.......... you answer part of the q

double trigger benchies

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:19 PM

one of my favorites

hyperframe

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:21 PM

one of my favorites.........

intelliframe blade trigger

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:23 PM

a dye double trigger

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:27 PM

intelliframe groove double trigger

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:35 PM

dye single trigger

picture courtesy of: kswiss771

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:36 PM

booyaahs

SIGSays

10-27-2001, 02:41 PM

q: who invented the mag??

a: tom kaye

Halliday

11-26-2001, 10:50 AM

Q: What is the difference between the Automag Classic, Minimag, RT and RT Pro?

Automag Classic: basic Automag, comes in standard feed and powerfeed. Standard A.I.R. valve, has one "free repair" star. Can run off co2 or HPA.

Minimag: Basically the same as an Automag. The body has been machined to give it an "assault pistol" look. Standard A.I.R. valve, with 4 repair stars. Comes with vertical tank adapter. Can run off co2 or HPA.

RT: Reactive Trigger Automag. Comes in powerfeed and vertical feed models. RT valve can only be run off HPA. Has hardline built to run air through the frame.

RT Pro: This is the cut down model of the RT. While different than the RT, it is still basically the same gun. It has no hardline and uses standard fittings to transport air.

strongboy2005

12-01-2001, 03:04 PM

Q: What psi is the automag regulator set at?

A: Approx 400 psi

Halliday

12-07-2001, 01:25 PM

Q: How many shots does ______ tank get?

A: stolen from: http://www.geocities.com/divadcom/SHOT_CHART.html

CARBON DIOXIDE
HERE IS A GUIDE FOR CO2 SHOTS PER OZ. AT 80º F.
65 TO 70 SHOTS PER OUNCE
7oz TANK = 466 SHOTS
9oz TANK = 600 SHOTS
12oz TANK = 800 SHOTS
20oz TANK = 1333 SHOTS

COMPRESSED AIR

HERE IS A GUIDE FOR HPA SHOTS PER CUBIC INCH.
3000psi 4500psi
10 SHOTS PER ci. 15 SHOTS PER ci.
47ci = 470 SHOTS 68ci = 1020 SHOTS
68ci = 680 SHOTS 88ci = 1320 SHOTS
88ci = 880 SHOTS 114ci = 1720 SHOTS
114ci = 1140 SHOTS

Halliday

12-09-2001, 10:53 AM

Q: What's the deal with barrels? Which ones are most efficiant? How long should it be?

A: (Copied from www.automags.org/resource/tech/tomstech/01_barrel_eff.shtml )

Barrels are only there to accelerate the ball from a standstill to 300 fps. In theory they also help with accuracy but that's another post. The ball goes through incredible acceleration on its way down the barrel. The balls acceleration rate is approx. 50,000 feet per second to get to 300 feet per second in 10 inches. The entire barrel travel time is about 6 thousandths of a second and this means the ball is seeing about 1500 G's when its getting pushed out the gun. Although this may sound incredible if someone out there would like to do the math you will see that I'm close.

Air pressure behind the ball is what causes this acceleration to happen. This pressure varies between the different guns but is generally between 50 to 125 pounds per square inch at its peak. The air pressure peaks right when the ball starts moving down the barrel, after that, the ball moving down the barrel creates a bigger chamber so the pressure drops. This is why low pressure guns are a myth, in reality all guns shoot at considerably lower pressure than 200 psi.

Peak pressures above 150 psi tends to break balls down the barrel due to really high acceleration and G forces. If you don't have any way to control the peak pressure behind the ball, the only way you can change it is to go with lower pressure in the air chamber, hence low pressure guns. AGD uses the precise contour of the power tube tip to release air in a controlled manner behind the ball to limit peak pressures to around 60-80 psi..

It is simple to understand that the harder you push something the faster it will accelerate and get up to speed in a shorter distance. So what distance do we have to get the ball up to speed? The effective length of the barrel is from the balls position before it's fired, to the place in the barrel where the pressure gets released, This is usually at the first porting holes or the step in the barrel. Porting is there to release gas pressure!! You are effectively stopping the acceleration at the ports so your 14" barrel that is half full of holes only has an effective length of 7".

Now we understand that we need to limit the peak pressure behind the ball to keep it from blowing up, and that the pressure drops as the ball moves down the barrel. The next question we need to ask is, how far down the barrel does the ball have to go before the pressure gets to low to do anything useful? That answer is 8-10 inches. We know this from looking at the graphs that our gun dyno puts out. If your peak pressure is higher, say over 100 psi you can get away with a shorter barrel, if it's lower then you need a longer barrel. Since AGD is the only gun manufacturer to actually test their pressures behind the ball you might have a hard time getting this info for other guns.

So as far as our guns are concerned, the best efficiency would be had with an 8-10" effective length barrel. Since two piece ported barrels with an effective length of about 5-6" are the rage right now you hear a lot of complaints about gas efficiency. Under some circumstances there is a good reason to use a short effective length barrel. Short barrels cut off the acceleration abruptly by venting and this has the effect of tightening up the shot to shot velocity variation. If you need this at the expense of efficiency then go ahead. Tighter velocity control usually translates into some improvement in accuracy due to better consistency.

So if you want the best of all worlds, limit your peak pressure, let your ball accelerate all it wants, don't follow the crowd and keep asking questions.

---Tom Kaye

Halliday

12-21-2001, 01:04 PM

Q: What is the Retro valve?
A: It is a replacement valve for the stock valve. Lighter weight with hyper fast recharge makes this a popular upgrade! The reactive trigger actually pushes your finger back after firing each shot! Shootdown is gone forever and the gas flows into the chamber so fast you can feel the valve heat up after a long string. Slide it right in and go to town!

Q: What is the "Go Retro" program?
A: You can trade in your old standard valve and get a discount on a Retro valve. More info here:
http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=17&Product_ID=19&CATID=5

Vaypourus

02-05-2002, 05:16 PM

Q: What is the difference between the Minimag and the Automag?

A: The automag has a short body in either standard feed, powerfeed, or the rare and no longer produced vertical feed. The "68 Classic Automag" has a 1 star valve. It comes alone with stock grips, body rail, body and valve (unless it is built up, like the popular TKO package). The standard feed and the powerfeed automag both weigh 1.8 pounds, and is 8.5 inches in length. It is available in either hopper left or hopper right models.

The minimag has holes cut out of the front of the body to give it the "assault weapon cooling" look. The minimag body is not available in standard feed. It is 13.5 inches in length, and weighs a bit more at 2.65 pounds (complete). The minimag valve is the same as the automag valve, only it has "minimag" printed on the valve and 4 repair stars instead of 1. The minimag also comes with a vertical adapter, stainless steel hose, quick disconnect and an 8 inch aluminum barrel.

Both bodies are available in standard grey finish (blast), black teflon, and hand polished stainless steel finish.

Batman

03-10-2002, 04:13 PM

Q. If im running a co2 tank on a vertical adapter, do i need anti-syphon?

A. NO! You need a standard tank, neither syphon or anti-syphon. An anti-syphon tank in a vertical position will be a syphon tank, and draw liquid co2 into your Mag.

Halliday

03-11-2002, 02:13 PM

Originally posted by Shadow221
I have to correct the 2 posts above. There's no such thing as a standard tank. there's either a CO2 siphon tank a CO2 anti-siphon tank(both screw in) a screw in nitro tank, and a railmount nitro tank. Anything can be used on a vertical adapter except railmount nitro. It's just not recommended to use anti-siphon.

From page 13 of the AGD 68 Automag/ Minimag Level 7 Manual, 1998:

"For vertical tank and remote vertical tank setups, always use standard tanks that have been weight checked to ensure proper fills."

also

"Remote tanks should be standard (Neither siphon nor anit-siphon)"

I'm inclined to trust AGD's manual.

(The E-Mag/RT body thing I was not sure about)

Halliday

03-13-2002, 05:33 PM

Originally posted by Shadow221
What most people call a standard tank is really a siphon tank

Where did you get that information? The only "siphon" tanks I know of are the bulk co2 tanks I use for fills at the field. There are siphon tanks (with the tube down to draw up liquid co2), anti-siphon (with the tube up so to not draw in liquid co2) and standard (that draw whatever they can, gas or liquid based on gravity, placement and temperture.)

green_kat

03-30-2002, 05:07 PM

Q: Can you really fire an automag underwater without harming it?

A: Yes you can.

Q: Does AGD recommend you fire a Mag under water?

A: No.

vivisector

04-01-2002, 01:29 PM

Q: Are the Hyperframe and Intelliframe tournament legal, I mean, they are electric triggers.? Many tournament don't allow electric guns.

A: Overall, they are legal. The Intelliframe is not an electro frame. Yes, some tourneys do not allow electro markers. The Hyperframe does have a tourney lock switch.

Q:Which is better: Hyperframe or Intelliframe?

A: They both are very different and cannot be easily compared.

Q:Does anyone else think the warpfeed is cool?:P

A: Yes

Vaypourus

04-01-2002, 02:01 PM

Here is a slight revision of your question:

Q. Are the Intelleframes and Hyperframes electronic trigger frames, and are they tournament legal?

A. The Intelleframe is not an electronic trigger frame. It is a mechanical trigger frame, with the option to put a simple switch on the inside of it. It is perfectly tournament legal.

The Hyperframe is a fully electronic trigger frame made by Centerflag. It is tourny legal as long as it is locked in semi-mode only (as long as the tournament allows electronic guns to start with).

Lorquas

04-08-2002, 01:00 PM

Q: How does a mag work?

A: Heres the steps:

1: Airtank supplies air to regulator at 800-1000 psi
2: Regulator takes pressure to 375 psi
3: Air flows through on/off valve and fills air chamber
4: Trigger is pulled first closing on/off valve and then releasing bolt
5: Bolt moves foward against spring pressure until power piston exits power tube
6: Air is released into bolt cavity and fires ball
7: Main spring returns to cocked position
8: Trigger is releaced, bolt is latched, and on/off valve pressurizes air chamber.

(all of that is directly from the automag manual found at: http://www.airgun.com/manual.shtml )
or an animation of the workins recently brought to you by: Lothain :cool:

vivisector

04-22-2002, 03:46 PM

Q: Does the E-mag come with the warp feed when you buy it or do you have to buy it seperately?

A: You usually have to buy the Warp seperately. Some stores may offer a package deal.

Lorquas

04-23-2002, 12:00 PM

Q: What barrel should I get?

A: Halliday already answered on what length you should get (if you scroll up)... I will answer the rest of the question :D keep in mind i'm going for accuracy... (from: Tom's Tech Tips, #2 (http://www.automags.org/resource/tech/tomstech/02_boresize.shtml) )

By popular request I will divulge the inner secrets of bore/paint match ( is was 101 degrees out in the field today so I came in early) [Tom was looking for dinosaur bones in Wyoming, Ed.]

Does having a good paint barrel match improve your accuracy??? YES. How does it do it? Very simple, if your gun shoots with a consistent velocity the paintballs will tend to follow the same arc, thereby improving accuracy. It technically is making your gun more consistent which is a better term than accuracy.

Historically there were many theories about paintball barrel matches. First there was the Tippman theory where they used a very large bore barrel and claimed that the air escaped evenly around the ball and it floated down the barrel without touching anything. They claimed this was the "air bearing effect". Next there was the tight barrel theory that said if the ball seals all the way around the shot will be more accurate. Actual testing has proven both these theories false.

Why match paint to barrel? Going back in time the paintballs were much more inconsistent than they are now, in fact now they are really, REALLY round and half the price. Players found that their consistency/accuracy improved when they used certain size barrels. Unfortunately paint is constantly changing size and this requires different barrel id's to work well.

The technique used to research paint/barrel match is simple and doable by anyone. Testing is performed by blowing a thin powder down the barrel to coat the inside. We used to use Desenex Foot Powder that sprayed on dry. Todays Desenex is a different formulation and doesn't make a powder. Once you have coated the barrel you dry fire the gun once to clear out any extra powder. Lastly shoot one paintball out the gun and inspect the inside of the barrel. The powder will be stripped away everywhere the ball touched. This allows you to see exactly what happened to the ball down the barrel.

If the barrel is too big, the ball ricochets back and forth down the tube. We used to say it looked like Zebra stripes in there. Hence big barrels do NOT create an "air bearing". Barrels that are too small scrape most of the powder off and this creates excessive FRICTION. Tighter barrels that were too long were found to slow the balls down due to this friction. In other words, when you cut these barrels down, velocity went up. Remember the 8-10" acceleration distance, these barrels were 14" long and unported.

The best paint barrel match left two 1/8" wide streaks opposite each other down the barrel. The widest part of a paintball is usually the seam which is also called the equator. With a proper size match only the balls equator touches the barrel snugly on two points. The equator tends not to align itself so the entire seam touches the barrel hence you only get two points touching. So what is happening here that makes this so desirable? We all know paintballs vary in size, this means that there will be slightly more or less friction on the ball depending on how tightly it fits in the barrel. If you use too tight a bore that touches the ball all around, trying to squeeze a bigger ball in greatly increases the friction and changes your velocity. By having the barrel sized to only touch two points, bigger or smaller balls only increase the contact patch a small amount and this gives you better shot to shot CONSISTENCY. To large a bore solves the friction problem but you get back to the ricochet effect.

So this is the story behind proper paint/barrel match. Many of you have commented that the stock barrels seem to work about as good as custom barrels. This is because todays paint is so much more consistent than 10 years ago that the difference between barrels is much diminished. Even the biggest to the smallest barrels don't product that much difference in accuracy IF YOU ONLY COUNT THE SHOTS AT THE SAME VELOCITY. So there you have it, I should mention these studies were done in the early to mid nineties, we have not done any testing lately on two piece barrels etc.

..... In conclusion you should go for the best paint/barrel match... try different paint with your barrel. If you can't try different paint... and don't wanna buy a barrel to only see if your brand of paint works with it, go here (http://www.pbnation.com/misc2.php?action=barrelchart ) , so you can match up your paint to a barrel easily, and eliminate a lot of the guess-work.

Halliday

04-25-2002, 04:00 AM

Q: I want to run a preset tank on my Mag. The input pressure is between 700-1000 psi. Will it work ok?

A: Yes it will.

Q: How about a tank set lower, like 500 psi?

A: It will not have enough pressure.

Vaypourus

05-05-2002, 11:47 AM

Q: Why is Powerfeed better than Standard feed?

A: Here is a very simple diagram that I drew (go Autocad 2002!!!) comparing the two so you can get the main idea. These are views of the powerfeed and standard feed bodies looking down the barrel into the breech. The white arrows represent the paintballs going into breech. The red arrows represent the blow back gas; big arrows represent the majority of the blow back gas as opposed to the small arrows.

You can see on the standard feed, the majority of the blow back gas is vented right up the feed tube instead of the small hole drilled into the top of the feed tube. This means that the balls are pushed out of the feed tube in the opposite direction you want them to go. This can result in slower feeding and chopping, not to mention that paint can be blown right up into your hopper( very messy and will ruin all of the paint in your hopper ).

On the powerfeed, you can see how most of the blow back air is vented out of the rectangular slot cut into the top of the feed tube. Very little gas actually vents up the feed tube into the hopper. The air venting out of the rectangular slot actually creates a vacuum and helps suck the next ball into the breech. This means faster feeding, and if you get a bad breech break, the paint will volcano out of the hole stead of going right up into the hopper .

***(If you have Attention Deficit Disorder and can't read all that, a PF uses the leftover gas of the 1st shot to bounce the next shot into the breech faster than gravity can feed. *Halliday*)***

Bob Mundon

05-12-2002, 09:11 AM

Q: If I have a anti siphon and a remote tank wouldnt that be twice as good?

A: No, if you do that then all you end up is piping the liquid into the gun. You only use anti-siphon tanks when using a bottomline setup, never vertical or remote.

Lorquas

05-19-2002, 10:55 AM

Q: What are the differences between the mag levels?

A: All levels before 7: the old mags, mostly in the developmental stages, not produced anymore. If you have a mag its either a lvl 5 (kind of rare now) or 7-10.

lvl 1-3: blowback "Panther" markers, never made production
lvl 4: First mag prototype (not produced)
lvl 5: First production mag
lvl 6: Mag that featured a smaller air chamber (again, not mass produced)

__________________
lvl 7: The standard mag valve (the one on classics, and minimags), replaced the PT spring with PT spacers.

lvl 8: The origional RT valve.

lvl 9: The Retro/RT pro/Emag valve (different cosmetics in each gun type)

lvl 10: An upgrade to all previous levels. Featureing a new all steel superbolt, a new powertube tip, and other various parts in between. The major advantage? NO BREAKS. See the LvL 10 FAQ for details.

EliteBoris

05-22-2002, 11:56 AM

Q: Can i have a horizontal mounted co2 bottle (PMI PURE ENERGY) connected to a duckbill adapter, going through a steel braided hose leading to a vertically mounted expansion chamber that is hooked up the the vertical bottle adapter that is on my mini mag?? Will this work?? will it cause damage??

A: Yes it will work and no it will not damage your Mag.

michbich

05-26-2002, 12:21 PM

Q: Is it true that i could transform my Hyperframe into a Intelliframe?

A: If you mean wire the Hyperframe to agitate the hopper with each shot, yes. The plans are not listed here, but I can offer a few links that will give you some ideas on how to do the wiring. They are instructions on how to wire a Intelliframe, and with some extra knowlege you could figure out how to wire a Hyperframe.

www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32816
www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8725

chimic

05-27-2002, 02:28 PM

Q: How long is the trigger pull on a mag?

A: That is not a simple question. It take a small amount of movement to fire it, but it needs the trigger to be pulled back farther to complete the cycle and not short-stroke. It is best described as, "Short and snappy."

Vaypourus

05-29-2002, 01:08 PM

Q: I am considering a Retro Valve. Should I get it?

A: Well, there are a few things you should take into consideration before dishing out the dough.

1. Is a high ROF important? If it is, then this valve is for you. It is the fastest recharging valve in existance, and with practice it is possible to shoot as fast as any gun (including electronic guns in semi mode and even faster).

2. Do I have nitro/HPA? If you answered no, then you are in trouble. Due to the design of the mag, you MUST use Nitrogen/HPA with the Retro Valve.

3. Do I have a hopper that can keep up with the Retro Valve? Becuase of the very high ROF, you are going to need a good aggitated hopper. The 9-volt revy probably will not cut it.

4. Do I like to snap-shoot, play the sniper, or play "one-shot one-kill"? If you answered yes, then you may have a problem. The Retro Valve has "shoot-up", meaning that your velocity increases as you shoot faster. For this reason, you must set your velocity way below your feilds max velocity limit so you are not running hot. Because of this, single shots are not as effective. The Retro Valve is great for shooting strings of shots or bursts, but the shootup may cause problems with single or spaced out shots.

5. Do I have an adjustable tank? It is recommended that an adjustable tank is used in conjunction with the Retro Valve so the "reactiveness" of the trigger can be adjusted. A preset tank will work, but some people are not happy with the performance and/or reactiveness of the trigger of the Retro Valve with a preset tank.

paint_suey

05-29-2002, 07:26 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by banzaimf
[B]Q: What do I need to run a Mag on co2 (cause hpa/nitro is not readily available in my area,etc)

A: Either an anti-syphon bottle, a remote setup or a vertical bottle adapter. DO NOT use a anti-syphon tank and remote together. It makes a syphon remote whice is bad for most markers, including Mags....

I watched da video and they had the hose that connected to the gun wrapped up in coils. That kept liquid out so ya still need something to keep liquid out. I did trial and error and I got some icy stuff on the side of my gun.:laugh:

Vaypourus

06-15-2002, 08:16 PM

Q. is it possible to get a z-frame for a RT pro or a e-mag?

A:The Z-grip can be used with the RT and the RT Pro. It will not work for the Emag. The RT Pro uses the normal Z-grip (for automags) while the Automag RT Requires the RT version, which has an enlarged rear hole for the banjo bolt. I believe that is covered in the "Intelli-Z" sticky.

Vaypourus

06-27-2002, 03:56 PM

Q: i'm purchasing an automag and a smart parts splash kit for it. What other parts do I still need to purchase exactly? How many and what kind of hoses and other crap do you need to purchase with a new automag.

A: It depends on how you want to set it up. You can run a simple macroline from the valve to the ASA/tank, or you can get more complex and run it to a gas thru, depending on what kind of Splash Kit you pruchased. Is it a Smart Parts or Planet Eclipse splash kit? Is it the basic splash kit or is it the deluxe? Is a foregrip or a vertical asa included? How about a drop forward/cradle/beavertail?

I suggest you look in the picture thread, find a setup you like, and ask about that one in particular. You have a few different options.

Lorquas

06-30-2002, 03:41 PM

Q: How many stars does ______ have?

A:

TKO Mag, classic mag: One star

Powerfeed Mag: Three stars

Minimag: Four stars (soon to be lowered to 2)

E-mag, RT, Retro Valve, RT Pro, Flatline: 2 stars (may not be engraved on valve)

RTs with serial numbers under 4000 (1 to 3999) are out of warranty and are subject to the $45 rebuild fee. RTs with serial numbers 4000 and up will receive free service until December 31, 2002, at which time all RTs will be out of warranty and require a rebuild fee of $45. AGD will consider making an exception if their records show the valve has never been in for repair before.

When you run out of stars (or don't have any) the rebuild fee should cost $45 ($65 for e-mags).

For more details on your mag's warranty, click here (http://www.airgun.com/WarrantyPolicy.shtml)

chomp141

07-05-2002, 09:38 AM

Q: So whats happens when AGD removes all yuor stars?

A: You no longer get free service. You have to pay for it.

Dravion

07-11-2002, 09:30 AM

Q: Can I put a such and such body on such and such rail?

A: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=12914

That link explains a lot of the main body differences and what can go on what. Link is thanks to vaypourus and I did this becasue I know he gets tired posting this link three times a day so now all he has to do is point to the faq.

Shadow221

07-16-2002, 02:29 PM

Q: My gun is leaking. How do I fix it?

A: first try oiling the gun. This usually helps a lot.

If that doesn't work find where it's leaking from. gas up the gun, pull the trigger and hold it. If it continues to leak then the leak is out the back. If it stops the leak os down the barrel. If it only leaks while holding the trigger it's the on/off.

-leak down barrel-
first check that the bolt spring extends past the bolt. If it does leave that alone. Check the powertube o-ring. If it looks damaged replace it. If it doesn't look damaged replace it anyway but keep the old one(i case that wasn't the problem). If it still leaks change your powertube spacer. Lastly if it still leaks replace the sear.

-leak out the back-
lower your velocity. when the velocity gets too high the guns vents extra pressure out the back. if that doesn't help replace the reg seat. And it all else fails replce reg piston o-ring and clean he piston.

-leaks only while holding the trigger-
If it leaks like a lawn sprinkler(short bursts of air every few second)that can only mean one thing. Teflon o-ring. If it's a constant leak replace all the o-rings as any of them could be causeing the problem.

Q. How do I know if an o-ring is bad?

A: (first I'd like to thank Vaypourus for most of this part)
Follow this guide and you should be able to tell if it's bad. Sometimes you really can't tell though

good o-ring- flexible*(see bottom of post), white or light yellow, clean
bad o-ring-cracked/torn/broken, dark yellow/brown in color, dry)

*Only rubber o-rings(such as the powertube o-ring) are flexible. Teflon o-rings(such as in the on/off)are not flexible. Don't try to bend teflon o-rings as that will only damage them. Teflon is more like a plastic than rubber so if you bend it, it will stay like that and never seal right.

dcmander

09-12-2002, 08:21 PM

1) Does it hurt the gun or the guns internals in any way to dry fire it?

A: No

2) Does it hurt the gun or the guns internals in any way if you pull the trigger w/o air?

A: No

3) Does AGD fix/do work on Micromags? Any info on warranty work on Micromag RTs?

A: No. Any Micromags sent to AGD are routed to Pro-Team.

4) How do you know if your ReTro valve is alluminum?

I believe the back half is aluminium. The newest all black valves with "X-Mag" engraved are all alum.

5) If it is not alluminum, where can you get the alluminum valve and is there a trade in program?

I do not believe there is that kind of trade-in program now.

Shadow221

09-14-2002, 04:39 PM

Q: My barrel locks into place sometime and I can't get it out without taking the gun apart. how can I fix this?

A: The twist lock groove on the barrel is made a bit deeper at the end to keep it from slipping out of place. On some guns the twist lock assembly locks in there. Just take the gun apart completly. The twist lock assembly is a small part that fits in the front of the trigger guard. There's an allen screw at the bottom. Find a key that fits and loosen it a bit. this makes it easier the push the pin down and the barrel shouldn't lock anymore.

Hotshot<>=

10-29-2002, 12:01 PM

Q: I am upgrading to nitro soon and saw a HPA piston in a store. Do I need to get this to get nitro?

A: No, this is the stock piston on all mags (at least since 1992 or something).

Shazbot

10-30-2002, 07:21 PM

q: I heard the z-grip was more comfortable- is it really?

a: well, for some folks it is. In this picture, i'm in the foreground. With my teeny-drop and 68 tank setup, my wrist is in a perfectly natural postion when I fire, and I like it that way. (I use a stock frame) No, a z-grip isnt more comfortable if you're like me and want your gun out in front of you.

However, if you're like my teammate in the background (shooting an intelli) and you put your tank on your shoulder or use a huge drop, a z- would probably be more comfortable. Notice how he has to contort his wrist.http://www.mrpl.org/Tournaments/Slam02-042.jpg

PbAllWiZZ

11-05-2002, 05:27 PM

Q.What are the TUX,SENTINEL,BLACKBIRD,FALCON and TKO AUTOMAGS?

a.These are jsut Mag packages, heres whats on em...

TUX Mag
------------
Polished PF Mag, hopper R/L
Dye Boomstick, optional lengths
Chrome Dye double trigger frame with polished double trigger and clear Dye sticky grips.
Dye Drop Forward Cradle
Macroline Kit
Palmer Stabilizer Regulator
Chrome sight rail
Lock Down Thumbscrew Velocity adjust
Vertical Adapter

BLACKBIRD Mag
--------------------
Black PF Mag, hopper R/L
Pure Energy Inline Adjustable Regulator with ACI Input pressure Guage
Lapco Vertical Adapter
Macroline Kit
10 inch Barrel
Black Sight Rail

FALCON Mag
----------------
Gray PF Mag, hopper R/L
Chrome Pure Energy Inline Adjustable Regualtor with ACi input pressure Guage
Nickel Plated Sight Rail
Lapco Verical Adapter
Macroline Kit
10 inch Barrel

SENTINEL Mag
------------------
Gray PF Mag, hopper R/L
12",14" AA Barrel, anodized to preferances, green, blue,black
Skanline Expanison Chamber
Smart Parts colored wood grips
Vertical Adapter

TKO Mag
-----------
Gray SF Right/PF Left Mag
Foregrip
TKO Vertical Adapter
Barrel (not sure which kind and what length)

All of these (except the TKO which only includes the Macroline.BTM Line kit) Include teh following

Lubricant
Tech Video (TKO also includes this)
Allen Wrenches, Nubbins and O-rings(TKO includes these too)
200 RND, non-motorized hopper

llCanibusll

12-05-2002, 02:30 PM

What is the Z-body and the Z-Valve?

The z body is a square shaped aluminum body that was a small rubber adjustable peice in the breech. When the ball is fired the piece of rubber puts a back spin on the ball. This gives the ball more distance(msrp $280)

The z-valve is a replacement on/off assembly for the automag/minimag. There is also a model available for the RT/RT Pro/Retro Valve. The idea is to give the gun "reactive capabilities" and increase airflow. Due to poor machining tolerances, this part sometimes works sometimes doesnt.(msrp $42.50)

Both are made by Galatic Systemz.

http://www.galacticz.com/index.html

Halliday

01-04-2003, 11:57 AM

Q: How do I install a Lvl 10/LX bolt? Pictures? Diagrams?

A: Right off the AGD website:
www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml#faststart

It has some great info and cool videos.

Vaypourus

01-14-2003, 09:54 AM

Q: When I pull the trigger on my mag, there is no pressure on the trigger; it just flops around. Is something wrong? Am I missing a spring?

A: Don't worry my good son! The mag trigger is not returned with a spring like an autococker/spyder/tippman or electronic gun. Instead, the mag trigger is returned with air pressure from the valve (this is the reason that the trigger pull is stiffer than most other guns). So until you gas up the gun, you will not have any pressure on the trigger.

*question and answer compliments of opus16_16

Shadow221

01-14-2003, 11:34 AM

I'm going to add a little bit to your post if you don't mind Vayp.

If you gas up the gun and the trigger still has no resistance turn the velocity up. Pretty soon you should hear the sear click out. The trigger now has resistance but probably will need more pressure to actually shoot.

Halliday

02-09-2003, 06:34 PM

E-Mag:

On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
.725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

Trigger Rod: 2.125"

Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"

RT-Pro:

On/Off Pin: .765"

Trigger Rod: 1.985"

Retro Valve/X-Valve/Classic RT:

On/Off Pin: .750"

Automag Classic/Minimag:

On/Off Pin: .750"

Trigger Rod: 1.985"

Level 10:

Bolt stem: 2.010"

Shadow221

03-07-2003, 05:41 PM

Q: What's the difference between all the types of E-mags? Stock E-mag, Micro E-mag, SFL E-mag, X-mag etc...

A:They're all the same performance wise. The differences are mostly cosmetic, but there are a few parts that differ between the guns.

Material:
E-mag - Stainless Steel body
Micro, SFL, X-mag - Aluminum body(body and body rail all one piece)

Barrel threads:
E-mag - Mag barrels
Micro, SFL, X-mag - Cocker barrels.

ACE:
E-mag, Micro E-mag - No ACE
SFL, X-mag - Come with ACE

Feed style:
E-mag - Powerfeed, warp feed(cut down powerfeed), vert feed
Micro - Vert only
SFL, X-mag - Interchangle breeches. Vert feed, warp feed(horizontal side feed).

Availability:
E-mag - available almost everywhere
Micro - fairly common. Not too hard to find online.
SFL - No longer made(only 49 ever made)
X-mag - Not yet in full production. the waiting list for one is very very long.

Stock barrel:
E-mag - Same as RT/RT pro. modified crown point barrel
Micro - Armson barrel
X-mag - half way decent AGD made barrel
SFL - DYE Boomstick

Shadow221

04-01-2003, 02:32 PM

Q: What is the deal with the stars on the valves?

A: The stars are AGD's warrenty system. Each star earns you a free repair(covers work and soft parts like o-rings and springs, but hard parts like sears and reg pistons you still have to pay for). Classic valves have 1 star, minimag valves have 4 stars(soon to be reduced to 2 on new mini's), RT pro, ReTro, E-mag and X-valves all have 2 stars(though they're not always engraved).

The stars are good for 3 years from the date of manufacture so you can save them for when you really need them.

bigbrun12

05-28-2003, 09:36 AM

I have a Black Dragun and it's reliability is beginning to bother me and I am looking at a mag.

Q: Do I need to spend extravagant amounts of money if I want to be able to pull 10 or 13 bps like on the Black Dragun (or other electros)?

A:Really, there's 2 parts to your question.

You mentioned the BD's reliability and speed. You probally want both, but which are you willing to compromise? With a Mag you have the reliability and the potential for the speed. The stock Mag will not be as easy to pick up and shoot as a e-sear-tripper, but with practice it can. When you put in those upgrades (X-Valve, Intelli....) you will have increased performance, increased speed and of course a lighter wallet.

bigbrun12

05-28-2003, 10:58 AM

Thanks for the quick reply! Yes that does answer most of my question. But I my new revised question is:

Q: How do I make a mag fast for cheap?

A: The fastest, cheapest way is to just use it. Learing the trigger is a simple way to shoot fast. Buy a case of paint and go play!

xXhappyAznXx

06-23-2003, 09:46 AM

Q: My valve is leaking out the back, is it time to replace the regulator piston?How do i take out the regulator piston?

A: It could be several things
1) dirt on the reg seat
2) shooting hot
3) the reg piston working and blowing off extra pressure. This can come from installing a Lvl 10.

The simpler fixes are to clean the reg seat and check the velocity. You can get to the reg piston by unscrewing the regulator halves, taking out the velocity nut and spring pack and pushing the piston out the back.

Vaypourus

07-07-2003, 08:27 PM

Q: What is this Sydarm I keep hearing about?

A: The Sydarm is a specially modified automag made specially for Police/military/special forces training. It featured a classic valve with an aluminum regulator back half, a 12 gram adapter, a horizontal spring clip, a short barrel, and a single trigger. These were not sold to the public, but every once in a while you can see them on ebay or in the trading forums. Used they usually sell for about $500.

dillboy_2001

07-09-2003, 04:00 PM

i just bought a minimag and there was no pressure even with a tank on it and then after i took it apart and put it back togeather there was pressure but it still wouldnt fire what could be wrong

Halliday

07-09-2003, 04:16 PM

A: Are you sure the tank is full? Does it work on another marker? If it's HPA, is it more than 800psi pressure? If the tank is full, try turing up the velocity of the Mag. Do about 1/4 turn and test the trigger untill something happens.

dillboy_2001

07-09-2003, 05:38 PM

just filled it up and it works on my shocker and i tried the velocity

Halliday

07-09-2003, 05:43 PM

What's the output pressure of the tank? Low or High? If it's a Low pressure tank it might be the prob. Has it ever worked before? If so, what has changed?

dillboy_2001

07-09-2003, 05:45 PM

it is a co2 tank and i just got the gun today so i dont know if it has worked before ther person i bought it off of said it worked though

Halliday

07-09-2003, 05:45 PM

Also try this
http://www.airgun.com/debug.shtml#g1

dillboy_2001

07-09-2003, 05:48 PM

i think i might just send it back and get my money back i am kinda sick of working with it unless u have any otherpotential reasons

dillboy_2001

07-09-2003, 05:55 PM

haliday can i talk to u on aim
can u im me thx

dillboy_2001

07-09-2003, 06:00 PM

my aim is heavychevy4wheel

Lil_Wick

07-10-2003, 01:40 PM

Q: does the e-mag have any other modes than semi-auto?

dillboy_2001

07-10-2003, 07:44 PM

yeah it has a lot of burst modes and full auto

PMI_Guy

07-11-2003, 07:20 PM

Originally posted by Vaypourus

***(If you have Attention Deficit Disorder and can't read all that, a PF uses the leftover gas of the 1st shot to bounce the next shot into the breech faster than gravity can feed. *Halliday*)***

So does that mean that (assuming your hopper can keep up, and is not force feed) that P/F guns can feed 13+BPS with no force feed?(13 BPS being the fastest they think paintballs can drop into the breech under gravity)

Halliday

07-11-2003, 07:23 PM

I can't say. You've got me there, and I'm tired :(

Vaypourus

07-12-2003, 08:12 AM

Originally posted by PMI_Guy

So does that mean that (assuming your hopper can keep up, and is not force feed) that P/F guns can feed 13+BPS with no force feed?(13 BPS being the fastest they think paintballs can drop into the breech under gravity)

There isn't a hopper that isn't force fed that can feed at 13 BPS consistantly.

Shadow221

07-12-2003, 10:07 AM

Originally posted by Lil_Wick
Q: does the e-mag have any other modes than semi-auto? If you buy the jumper from AGD you can unlock burst mode. There is no full auto.Originally posted by PMI_Guy
So does that mean that (assuming your hopper can keep up, and is not force feed) that P/F guns can feed 13+BPS with no force feed?(13 BPS being the fastest they think paintballs can drop into the breech under gravity) For short bursts perhaps...but not much faster.

JTramoDude

07-22-2003, 08:09 PM

hey im going to go mag soon.... and my question is.

Is there any real difference between an
X-valve
or an
RT-valve

(besdides the lvl 10 in x-valves)

and... is dropping a rt or x valve in a mini/micromag easy.... and will it now equal a retro mag.

Vaypourus

07-23-2003, 06:16 AM

Originally posted by JTramoDude
hey im going to go mag soon.... and my question is.

Is there any real difference between an
X-valve
or an
RT-valve

(besdides the lvl 10 in x-valves)

and... is dropping a rt or x valve in a mini/micromag easy.... and will it now equal a retro mag.

I think this is posted earlier on in the FAQ. I think you are speaking of the Retro Valve, and not the RT? (the RT valves were available only on the old school RTs). If not, I can explain that was well.

There are a few small differences between the X-valve and the ReTro valve. The X-valve is constructed of all aluminum, while the ReTro valve is about 2/3 stainless steel. The Retro Valves are no longer made, but they were $300 new, and featured "ReTro Valve" laser engraved on the back half of the regulator. The X-valves are more expensive becuase of the LX, and they have the X-valve logo engraved on the back.

Performance wise they are identical, as they are both the same exact design (the parts are completely interchangable).

JTramoDude

07-23-2003, 08:32 AM

thanks aalot... i looked but didnt find anything, i may be wrong tho.

Shadow221

08-25-2003, 07:36 PM

This come from a conversation on AIM between me and Bourne. I left the questions he asked in order...so it gets interrupted a few times...

Q: how do you adjust the trigger on an E-mag?

A: A complicated question indeed. There are 3 things to adjust. Trigger return magnets, hall sensor magnets and the trigger stop. First off, the easiest to adjust, the hall sensor. There's a screw on the front of the trigger. Use an allen wrench(I forget what size)To adjust that. Adjusting this determines at what point the hall sensor is activated.

Q: wait, what is the hall sensor?

A: Instead of a micro switch, the E-mag uses a hall sensor. It's a magnetic switch. You see the little plate behind the trigger? It's about the same level as the groove in the middle of the trigger. That's the sensor. There's a magnet in the trigger that activates it. The screw in the trigger adjusts the position of the magnet, thus adjusting when in the trigger pull the gun fires.

Q: Back to adjusting the trigger...

A: Ok, to adjust the magnets and the trigger stop you must remove the frame. Don't try and pull the sear out or you can damage the solenoid. Take the sear pin out but leave the sear in. You'll notice, right above the trigger the magnets. Set the selector switch to M and pull and hold the trigger. Take an allen wrench and touch it to the magnets. Now pull it up and the magnet's should hold onto the allen wrench. Now, fewer magnets-lighter trigger. More magnets=heavier trigger. If you want uber light...like you can blow on it and it'll fire put a teflon on/off o-ring or an lx powertube o-ring should fit to...and put one magnet. Now that'll be a light trigger. You don't like it? takes a few seconds to fix. You can pull the trigger to try it out without putting the frame on. The trigger pull is the same no matter where the frame is.

Last part, the trigger stop. Set the selector switch to "E." Now, in the switch, the part that's inside the frame there's a screw. An allen wrench(again, I forget the size) Will adjust this screw. This is what controls the amount of travel the trigger has. You can adjust it to the point where the trigger won't move. It's best to leave it at least half a millimeter or so to make sure the hall sensor detects each pull correctly.

Q: now... what order would you do this all in?

A: Personally, I'd do the trigger stop first. I'd set it about where I wanted it. Then I'd take the sensor adjusting screw most of the way out, turn the gun on and pull the trigger. The tighten it down while holding down the trigger until the gun fires, then give it just under another 1/8 turn or so. Then make sure it detects each pull right, then set the weigh how I want.

Caleb98

10-16-2003, 08:39 AM

Originally posted by Vaypourus
Q: What is this Sydarm I keep hearing about?

A: The Sydarm is a specially modified automag made specially for Police/military/special forces training. It featured a classic valve with an aluminum regulator back half, a 12 gram adapter, a horizontal spring clip, a short barrel, and a single trigger. These were not sold to the public, but every once in a while you can see them on ebay or in the trading forums. Used they usually sell for about $500.

Tom Kaye also used 2 of these when he stormed the beaches of Normandy at D-day 2003...there he played the allied General...

JTramoDude

10-25-2003, 10:28 PM

Originally posted by fred1
how do u cock a mag?

is it just air it up and go?

.:FRED:.

air it up and let it fly

Low

10-27-2003, 12:51 PM

Why is the RT on Mags Tourny legal, but the RT on tippy's isnt? This may be answered elsewhere, but I cant find it... can anyone help?

JTramoDude

10-27-2003, 01:31 PM

Originally posted by Low
Why is the RT on Mags Tourny legal, but the RT on tippy's isnt? This may be answered elsewhere, but I cant find it... can anyone help?

cause with a rt on a tippmann you can just hold down the trigger (right?)

and on a mag it just makes the trigger more responsive, snappier, better... its still 1 shot per trigger pull... not as much as the tippmann

Shadow221

10-27-2003, 02:31 PM

Originally posted by JTramoDude

cause with a rt on a tippmann you can just hold down the trigger (right?)

and on a mag it just makes the trigger more responsive, snappier, better... its still 1 shot per trigger pull... not as much as the tippmann IT's a bit more involved than that.

Runaway mode. The tippman is ALWAYS in runaway. This is when you can hold constant pressure on the trigger and it continues to fire in "full-auto," so to speak. RT mags, however, are not in runaway when operating under 800 psi. The reactive trigger is still there, and it still increases your rate of fire, but it doesn't runaway.

Also, with the tippman, at very high rates of fire, the bolt ceases to lock onto the sear and instead just moves constantly. Witht the mag, even as fast as 30+ bps, the bolt stops and locks onto the sear after each cycle.

DWOOD

11-12-2003, 09:02 AM

i gassed up my mag with retro valve and it will shoot once and then it wont. there is still pressure on the trigger it just wont shoot when i pull the trigger. i oiled the gun and all. the on/off pin is .750.

Shadow221

11-12-2003, 10:59 AM

Turn up the velocity.

DWOOD

11-12-2003, 11:40 AM

I DID THAT and still no luck

Shadow221

11-12-2003, 01:34 PM

Is you tank full?

If it's adjustable, is it outputing at least 700psi?

If not adjustable, is it a high pressure or low pressure output?

How much did you turn up the velocity? Maybe you didn't set it high enough...

If you have LX, try a shorter bolt spring.

DWOOD

11-12-2003, 01:39 PM

okay it a crossfire high out put tank. i have levle 10 but not installed. i think i fixed the problem. thehole on/off assembly was brand new. i think the one/off was sticking. i oiled the o-ring and pin good and then it was shooting good. i dont know if new on/offs need to be broken in. but i think the problem is fixed.

i got a nother problem. i got a retro valve and when i was trying to shoot faster i would shoot quiter and i got shoot down. i was short stroking. i hole valve is clean. any ideas

xXhappyAznXx

11-23-2003, 12:08 PM

i just recharged my battery when i couldve sworn it was dead

i put it on the charger, and the light was just green... that means its already charged. i knew it wasnt charged, so i left it there for awhile and let it "charge". i took it out, and put it on my emag, the emag went through its LED screen nicely, but when i pulled the trigger nothing happened. i was just testing to see if the emag was working, cus i just finished a trade for it.

do i need air to test to see if the electronics are working properly? whats up w/ the battery already showing up green? why doesnt it do a click click thing when i pull the trigger to test the electronics?

P8BWorr

12-27-2003, 11:57 AM

Can u run a regular CO2 tank on a 68automag if u have a expansion chamber on it?

Caleb98

12-27-2003, 04:20 PM

yes it's just better for your mag to have an XP chamber!:)

baka

12-29-2003, 07:59 PM

What is sweet-spotting, shoot down, and shoot up?

JTramoDude

12-30-2003, 11:29 AM

Originally posted by baka
What is sweet-spotting, shoot down, and shoot up?

sweetspotting is a way of setting regs AND a way of shooting a "lane" on the field off the break to try to shoot people out right away

shoot down is... when firing fast the velocity drops

shoot up is .... when firing fast the velocity rises

PMI_Guy

01-05-2004, 06:58 AM

Heres a little bit more detailed working of a mag valve.

http://www.automags.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1216924

Oxbrain

01-05-2004, 10:23 PM

Q: Do all mags have shoot up?

A: No, only some of the mags do. The classic valve, powerfeed valve, minimag valve and smartmag valve do not, while the RT valve, RT Pro valve, Emag valve, X-mag valve, Retro valve, x-valve, and SFL valve do have shootup.

*vayp

JG2790

01-21-2004, 11:27 PM

Q: What are the general differences between these Automags?

A: There's alot more info on the stickies and on AO, but here is a basic synopsis of the different markers.

Automag - Comes with Classic AIR Valve stock. Mechanical. AIR Valve is estimated to about 16+ bps without shootdown, (though it can achieve higher) and can use compressed air or carbon dioxide for an air source. Comes in powerfeed (hopper left or right), center feed (very rare) and standard feed (available in hopper left or right).

Minimag - Comes with Classic AIR Valve stock. Mechanical. AIR Valve is estimated to about 16+ bps without shootdown, and can use compressed air or carbon dioxide as an air source. Same as the Automag and Automag Classic, but the body is different (the body has these vents in the front that sort of make the marker look like an assault rifle). Also comes with a vertical adapter stock.

Automag RT/Retromag/RT Pro - Used to come with the Retro Valve stock, but now they come with the X-Valve stock (same as the Retro Valve but is lighter and comes with Level 10 Bolt). Mechanical. The Retro/X-Valve is estimated to about 27+ bps without shootdown (though it can achieve higher). Increases your trigger pull's reactivity (it causes the trigger to bounce forward). Due to it's design and extremely fast recharge rate, the marker cannot use carbon dioxide as an air source. I repeat, RT/Retro/X-Valves can only use compressed air for an air source. There are also 3 versions of Automag RTs, there are Retromags, Automag RT Classics, and Automag RT Pros. Retromags simply refer to custom built Automags with Retro/X-Valves.

E-Mag - Basically an electronic Automag RT. The E-Valve is similar to the RT/Retro Valve. (similar, not the same though). The E-Valve will only work with compressed air like the RT/Retro Valve. 3 Firing Modes, E-Mode, M-Mode, and Hybrid Mode. E-Mode means the gun is fully electronical. Manual Mode is useful for when you have an electrical failure, your battery is dead, or you like playing with an Automag RT/Pro. Manual mode just lets you use the gun without electronics. Hybrid Mode makes your marker have a short pull like E-Mode, but it will cause the trigger to have the reactivity found on M-Mode. The e-grip frame also has an LED screen.

X-Mag - Same as the E-Mag, but comes with an X-Valve stock, has an Autococker threaded body, has a removable breech that allows you to switch between a warp feed breech and a vertical feed breech. Also comes with Anti-Chop Eyes (ACE) preinstalled. Also uses a body that integrates the body and body rail as one piece. Much lighter than a stock E-Mag, and if you order it from AGD, you can get it in custom colors and finishes, and even fade colors.

I will also add these as Halliday requested..

Micromag - Automag assembled by Pro Team Products. Comes with Classic AIR Valve stock. Mechanical. AIR Valve is estimated to about 16+ bps without shootdown, and can use compressed air or carbon dioxide as an air source. Like the X-Mag, the Micromag integrates the body and rail as one piece. Also, the overall length of Micromags are really compact. Also comes with a vertical adapter stock. Earlier Micromags also were much smaller (about the size of a pistol) but they had unremovable barrels to reduce the overall length. Also, the body uses Autococker barrel threads.

Micromag RT - Assembled by Pro Team Products. Exact same thing as a Micromag, but comes with a Retro Valve stock. Basically, it's an RT Pro/Retromag with a Micromag body. The Retro/X-Valve is estimated to about 27+ bps without shootdown (though it can achieve higher). Increases your trigger pull's reactivity (it causes the trigger to bounce forward). Due to it's design and extremely fast recharge rate, the marker cannot use carbon dioxide as an air source. I repeat, RT/Retro/X-Valves can only use compressed air for an air source.

Micro E-Mag - Assembled by Pro Team Products. Exact same thing as a standard E-Mag, but comes with an E-Valve stock. Basically, it's an E-Mag with a Micromag body. The E-Valve is similar to the RT/Retro Valve. (similar, not the same though). The E-Valve will only work with compressed air like the RT/Retro Valve. 3 Firing Modes, E-Mode, M-Mode, and Hybrid Mode. E-Mode means the gun is fully electronical. Manual Mode is useful for when you have an electrical failure, your battery is dead, or you like playing with an Automag RT/Pro. Manual mode just lets you use the gun without electronics. Hybrid Mode makes your marker have a short pull like E-Mode, but it will cause the trigger to have the reactivity found on M-Mode. The e-grip frame also has an LED screen.

Also..

Shocktech SFL E-Mag - Very rare edition E-Mag. It is almost the same exact thing as an X-Mag, but just uses a different body. Infact, this marker served as the prototype for the X-Mag. The body still integrates the body rail and body as one piece, and still uses Autococker barrel threads. There are about only 40 or so models ever made. When these came out the Anti-Chop Eyes were not available, but most of the 40 or so lucky owners have got ACE installed now, so if you find one used, chances are it will have ACE preinstalled. Also, it is so closely identical to the X-Mag, that it can even use the X-Mag warp feed breach and the X-Mag vertical feed breach. The e-grip frame is also an LED screen.

Xtreme E-Mag - Sometimes also called a European X-Mag. Pretty much the same thing as a standard X-Mag. The only difference between an X-Mag and Xtreme E-Mag is the grip frame (the standard uses a ULE e-frame and the Euro X-Mag does not) and some Xtreme E-Mags come with E-Valves instead of X-Valves. You can only get these in the States if you decide to buy the X-Mag upgrade package for your E-Mag from AGD Europe. The upgrade package simply requires you to send in your E-Mag to AGD Europe, which they will then install the X-Mag body and install the ACE and color it in whatever color, finish, or fade you want. The e-grip frame (whether it be a ULE e-grip or not) is an LED screen.

NOTE: This is just the basics, you can find alot more info on the stickies, AO, or if you use the dreaded Search button.

-JG2790

Bboy Young

01-28-2004, 01:02 PM

Originally posted by xXhappyAznXx
do i need air to test to see if the electronics are working properly? whats up w/ the battery already showing up green? why doesnt it do a click click thing when i pull the trigger to test the electronics?

I am wondering the same thing. I just got mine today and am very inexperienced with emags.

Sam#27

01-29-2004, 06:10 PM

what is the difference between the E valve and retro valve?

llCanibusll

01-29-2004, 06:30 PM

Originally posted by Bboy Young

I am wondering the same thing. I just got mine today and am very inexperienced with emags.

because the emag uses hall sensors unlike the conventional use of electronics. the hall sensor system as far as i know if a system where a magnet is placed in the trigger and the hall sensor determines the gun will fire once the magnet reaches point x were x is the point where the magnet is at the end of its swing (a fulcrum i believe). you can adjust the point where the hal sensor picks up the magnet enough to fire the gun also i believe.

llCanibusll

01-29-2004, 06:31 PM

Originally posted by Sam#27
what is the difference between the E valve and retro valve?

no diference some e valves maybe aluminum but there are still the same as rt's as are x valves.

Grimmjpr

02-25-2004, 09:41 AM

I'm not sure if this is in the right place.....but I just installed my Level 10 and it's venting out the back. Yes, I know i need a new Reg piston! My question is when you replace the regulator piston do you have to replace the reg spring pack as well. I'm running a Minimag SN#10,068. Thanks for any info.

Vaypourus

02-25-2004, 02:01 PM

Spring pack should be okay. As far as I know, they still remain the same, as they were o so long ago.

Halliday

03-12-2004, 03:25 PM

Q: Explain the Intelliframe to me. How many batteries does it run off?

A: The Intelliframe is a mechanical trigger frame for Automags. It does not require any batteries. It is a double finger trigger frame that is very comfortable.

Inside the frame is a mounting plate. If you want to set up your loader to spin every time you fire, you can attach a microswitch to the plate. Shooting the Mag will move the sear and activate the switch.

A copy of the instructions on how to set up the Intellifeeding are here (http://www.airgun.com/downloads/eureka3.pdf) It is a PDF file and you will need Adobe Acrobat to read it.

http://store.airgun.com/images/product/1.jpg

Caleb98

03-21-2004, 02:00 PM

Q- Can I intellifeed my reloader to my mag?

A- I dunno, but it would be dumb considering the reloader already spins with every shot anyway.

Halliday

03-30-2004, 01:29 PM

Q: What are the different valves?

A:

Classic / 68AutoMag - 1 repair star, runs off co2.

Minimag - 4 repair stars, runs off co2, functionally the same as a Classic.

The RT Valve (can only be used on RT Classics) - The reactive trigger actually pushes your finger back after firing each shot! Shootdown is gone forever and the gas flows into the chamber so fast you can feel the valve heat up after a long string. Slide it right in and go to town! Out of warranty and requires a repair fee.

Retro Valve - Same thing as an RT Valve, but comes stock on the RT Pros. Can be used on Automags, Minimags, Retromags, and E-Mags. Made primarily of stainless steel. 2 stars.

E-Mag valve - Functionally the same as a Retro. 2 repair stars.

X-Valve - Aluminum version of the Retro Valve. Comes with the LX stock is the main difference really. 2 repair stars.

Some older Classic, 68Automag and Minimag valves have no stars. They are out of warranty.

Caleb98

04-09-2004, 04:04 PM

Q- I keep having balls break, but it's not my barrel and I'm not outshooting my hopper. What's wrong?

A- You might need a powerfeed to help with the blowback gas, or you could be shortstroking. How do you know it's not the barrel? If the balls are too tight that can cause breaks. Maybe it's the paint? There are bad batches, and they are affected by the weather. Are you using wire nubbins? They can slice the balls.

So, there is no simple reason why balls break.

Shirtless FOX

04-12-2004, 10:18 AM

Please don't shoot this idea down too quickly, b/c I checked the other stickies and the search tool.

Now, I am well aware this idea will void any airgun/centerflag warranties, but I was wondering if anyone knew, or had a link, to how to remove the 13 BPS cap off of both a hyperframe board and airgun electric boards.

I don't believe posting this is against any forum rules, but I repair guns locally and I know people with eggys and halos that cant stand the BPS cap on electric mags.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Halliday

04-12-2004, 10:25 AM

Hey, at least you tried a search!

Hyperframe: Unknown. Buy a new board?
AGD: The 1.37 software allowed a jumper to be plugged in and allow burst fire. Other than that, buy a Morlock or E-Magnum?

Shirtless FOX

04-12-2004, 11:06 AM

Oh well, looks like I'll have brown my nose over at Airgun and Centerflag for those board specs.

But thanks for the info, I know some people who would be willing to shell out the money for a Morlock.

Yea! Search Feature :D

*edit*
one more thing about the service mode on hyperframes, when i try to cycle b/t service modes it turns off. right now i can only adjust the powerflow.

Shadow221

04-12-2004, 08:00 PM

Originally posted by Shirtless FOX
Please don't shoot this idea down too quickly, b/c I checked the other stickies and the search tool.

Now, I am well aware this idea will void any airgun/centerflag warranties, but I was wondering if anyone knew, or had a link, to how to remove the 13 BPS cap off of both a hyperframe board and airgun electric boards.

I don't believe posting this is against any forum rules, but I repair guns locally and I know people with eggys and halos that cant stand the BPS cap on electric mags.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Newer hyperframe boards are capped at 20 bps. Older frames can be upgraded by centerflag(I don't know about the cost, though)

Old 1.37 E-mag boards are capped at 16 bps. They can be sent in to AGD and upgraded to 3.2 for free, and will then be capped at 20 bps.

Shirtless FOX

04-15-2004, 06:59 AM

Really? Well thanks a lot man it's really good news for me.

Anyway, I check on www.automags.org forums for hyperframe threads and found that you can trade up to the 20 BPS board for anywhere from $50-65 depending on the condition of your board.

paintman1234

05-11-2004, 11:55 AM

Q. Will a T board help an automag RT? (as in shooting faster)

Halliday

05-11-2004, 03:03 PM

Originally posted by paintman1234
Q. Will a T board help an automag RT? (as in shooting faster)

A: I doubt it, but I don't know what a "T board" is. A RT is mechanical and it sounds like a board is electro.

sonnemann

05-14-2004, 07:46 PM

Originally posted by Halliday

A: I doubt it, but I don't know what a "T board" is. A RT is mechanical and it sounds like a board is electro.

Right you are; a T-board is an aftermarket Spyder board, which, as you said, will do absolutely nothing for a mechanical marker.

EDIT: Well, now that we know that it is possible to graft an electric Spyder frame onto a Mag, then, ironically, a T-board would help an RT as fr as speed.

mthegrand

05-22-2004, 08:35 AM

Q: Can someone please explain in depth what short-stroking is and why it happens?

A: The Mag trigger assembly (sear) works like a see-saw. It has a certain range of motion it must complete to work properly. Short-stroking happens when the operator does not allow the full (front and back) motion of the trigger to be completed. If the trigger pull is too short several things may occur. A ball may not feed, only partially feed (chop) or the bolt could become stuck forward. It can also cause shootdown.

The Mag trigger must be allowed to travel completely forward after each shot.

Bobsbarricades

06-02-2004, 05:58 PM

Q: If you use a regular co2 tank with a remote, does it matter wether it is vertical or horizontal on the hardness?

A: Keeping the tank vertical would help.

-------------------------------------

Q: Also how do you know if you have a a/s or normal tank?

A: You can take a valve of and check :) Or, with a full tank and the valve open, roll it back and forth on the ground. The cloud of co2 will stop and start if there is a anti-siphon tube.

---------------------------------------

Q: Would a 6 stage x-chamber be better than a 4 on a mag.

A: Techincally 6 is better, but take what the manufacturer says with a grain of salt. One company's 4 chambers may be bigger than another's 6.

-------------------------------------------

Q: If i wanted to use an x-chammber...would the accuracy, consitancy or anything get better? and also what combination of a/s, remote, and positioning would be best?

A: Get better compared to what? A no x-chamber co2 powered Mag? Yes, less liquid in the valve makes the Mag work better. Specific parts? It all depends on your setup.

All this really belongs in the Mag Co2 FAQ, but I'll keep it here for a while.

Bobsbarricades

06-07-2004, 10:38 AM

A: The fastest, cheapest way is to just use it. Learing the trigger is a simple way to shoot fast. Buy a case of paint and go play! [/B]

Q: Is that a typo, or is learing the trigger a trick?

A: No trick, but it does take practice. The trigger needs to swing all the way or you short-stroke it.

SirJono

06-20-2004, 06:30 PM

Q: Looking at Automags.org, for their ULE Custom, what is the ULE Trigger Pull kit installed?(+$19) as opposed to the on/off assy Rt/Rt-Pro .750 pin.

Brand new to mags, but thinking of buying one, but wanna make sure I know completely what I'm getting into.

A: The ULT kit

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=358&categoryID=9

http://store.airgun.com/images/product/358.jpg

"This is the hot new mod from deep in the bowels of the AGD Tech Lab. Swap your old on/off assembly for this one and instantly take away 2 lbs from your trigger pull. The new pull is 15 oz. and is the lightest pull of any mechanical marker with this stroke distance. Best part is we measure this from the top trigger loop so the bottom is even lighter!!

So what problems are there?

A couple things to watch out for. This product should not be used in Emags or Xmags because it reduces the rate of fire (the lighter pull doesn't pull the solenoid out as fast). Aside from that, the ULE Trigger only gives optimum performance on guns with X-Valves. It will go into but not work well in a Classic or Minimag valve. The reactivity has been turned down in this upgrade so it's harder to bounce but EASIER to short stroke. You need good finger control to get the most out of this upgrade."

In simple terms the ULT is a modified on/off.