The Kampfer
12-11-2003, 11:02 PM
I found this very helpful for those newbies who keep asking the same question:
Which Upgrade should I get first?
Originally posted by Kreeper-X from www.a5ownersgroup.com
Okay, so you just bought your A-5 or any other paintball marker and you're eager to start modifying it to suit your needs. So just what should you get for your marker right off the bat?
Nothing.
That's right nothing. The reason for this is your first experiences with your marker should be breaking it down and becoming familiar with the operation and mechanics of your marker. You should "get to know" your marker in stock condition before you start running to the proshop or looking online for that first upgrade.
You need to find your "groove" on the field. Are you a ballz-out front man diving over sup-air snakes and bunkering people with Matrix-like flips and spins, or are you a trigger happy madman at the back of the field shouting out targets and suppressing the opponents so your front players can hog all the glory? Are you a stealthy woodland stalker who prefers to sneak up behind your foes and tap them in the back with the end of your barrel, or are you crawling on the ground with little or no cover, tyring to get that perfect one-shot kill, or are you diving over wooden bunkers with the flag in your hand, leading the charge against the enemy?
Once you've played a few games and know your marker and your style of play, then, and only then, should you head out to the pro-shop.
So, what's the first thing I should upgrade?
First thing ANY player should invest in is a good STANDARD aftermarket barrel. By standard, I mean a straight barrel, not he flatline. The reason for that is that the flatline is awesome, but it's picky on paint, weather can cause horrid results, and the learning curve is steep.
The things you should take into mind when selecting your aftermarket barrel are not the cost or the name brand, but the ID or Internal Diameter. You want to select a barrel that matches the paint you will be shooting most often. If your field offers Large Bore paint, you will absolutely HATE a small bore barrel. If you buy your own paint for outlaw or BYOP (Bring Your Own Paint) fields, then your selection is limitless. If your local field offers Bigball as the only option, you're going to want a barrel that matches up well with that paint. A little research will let you know the ID of your barrel and the Diameter of the paintball that you are shooting. You can also get those paintball sizers to tell you exactly what you need in the way of a barrel.
This is why Barrel kits that come with difference size backs or inserts are so popular now. They may be a bit expensive for those breaking into the sport, but they offer you an option no matter what paint you are using. Lots of players end up spending hundreds of dollars on several different bore barrels, and probably should have just gone with the barrel kit in the first place.
After you've selected your standard barrel or barrel kit, then you can look into the flatline.
So, after I get my barrel what's next?
Well, here's where it gets expensive. You need to choose your air source. Most players start out with co2 and quickly discover the problems co2 has becuase they've skipped this second most important step and went on to number three.
You should choose an air source that not only suits you and your style of play, but one that suits the weather you'll be playing in and the one that you can get filled on a regular basis.
Nitro, is by default better than co2. But it does you no good to throw $100+ at a Nitro tank if you can't get it filled when you need it. If the local field can fill Nitro to 4500psi, then a 4500psi tank will give you more shots than a 3000psi tank. If your field can only fill to 3000psi, then a 4500psi tank is a waste of money.
If you can't get nitro because you can't get the tank filled, or it's too expensive, then co2 is your only choice. But to get it to perform at a decent level your're going to have to look into upgrading your tank and air system.
First on the list for Co2 users is the selection of either an XC (eXpansion Chamber) or remote system. The XC provides additional space for any liquid co2 that is trying to get into your marker to evaporate into gas, thus making co2 more consistant shot to shot than without one. A remote does the same thing, because any liquid leaving the tank has an extended line to travel through before it can get to the marker.
Next up is a modification of the tank. If you plan on using an expansion chamber and leaving the co2 tank on your marker, then you're going to want to invest in an Anti-Syphon kit for your tank. This kit puts a "straw" in your tank at an angle that prevents ANY liquid co2 from getting into your marker.
If your a trigger happy fiend who looks at the RT and E-Grip videos on the web and your keyboard ends up covered in drool, then you're going to want to bypass co2 altogther. Almost EVERY video out there showcasing 15+bps markers of any kind are Nitro based systems.
Co2 simply CANNOT keep up at high rates of fire. As co2 is run through the system, the tank which contains it "chills" and the internal temporature of the tank drops. This in turn makes the co2 more resistant to evaporation which lowers the pressure in the tank. This in turn causes shoot down, increased use of liquid co2, and a chilling effect in the valve and on the marker itself, both of which effect the performance of the marker and can lead to condesation in the barrel which will effect accuracy as well.
So, I have my air source and barrel, can I finally get my fire-power upgrades?
Yep, now's the time to select your fire-power upgrades. There are a few options out there for the A-5, and those are the RT (Responce Trigger) and the E-Grip. Again, you're going to want to select the option that suits your game and one that you are going to be able to use on the field, so check with your field owners. See if they allow the RT or modes of fire.
If you intend on going to any tournaments or your field doesn't allow the RT, then the E-grip is your choice. The E-Grip allows you to "program" your marker to fire in Semi-Auto, burst modes, and full auto. Since 99.9% of all tourneys are Semi-Auto Only, the E-grip will give you the electronic firing system which can be modded to fire very quickly. Since it requires a tool to change firing modes, the E-grip is COMPLETELT tourney legal.
If you play a lot of Rec and outlaw paintball, then the RT may be for you. Be sure to check with your field owner and your friends before opening up with the RT.
The RT is basically a air driven piston behind the trigger which uses blow-back gasses from the valve to reset the trigger about three times as fast as you can cycle the trigger manually. It also allows you to mimic full auto and bust modes because you can maintain a certain ammount of pressure on the trigger and thus fire off strings. The Idea here is that you pull the trigger until the marker fires and you leave your finger at that spot. As the piston forces the trigger out, the pressure forces your finger to move back a bit before the pressure you are maintaining on the trigger forces it back, thus cycling the marker again. This is called Sweetspotting and is Illegal in all but .01% of tourneys and on a lot of fields.
What's next?
From here, it's all personal preference. If you want to add cosmetic upgrades to build a flashy "space gun" or an intimidating "Mil-Sim" replica, it's totally up to you. You can add front grips, Regs, flatlines, scopes, red dots, etc... At this point it's entirely up to you and your style of play.
Hope this helps...
Which Upgrade should I get first?
Originally posted by Kreeper-X from www.a5ownersgroup.com
Okay, so you just bought your A-5 or any other paintball marker and you're eager to start modifying it to suit your needs. So just what should you get for your marker right off the bat?
Nothing.
That's right nothing. The reason for this is your first experiences with your marker should be breaking it down and becoming familiar with the operation and mechanics of your marker. You should "get to know" your marker in stock condition before you start running to the proshop or looking online for that first upgrade.
You need to find your "groove" on the field. Are you a ballz-out front man diving over sup-air snakes and bunkering people with Matrix-like flips and spins, or are you a trigger happy madman at the back of the field shouting out targets and suppressing the opponents so your front players can hog all the glory? Are you a stealthy woodland stalker who prefers to sneak up behind your foes and tap them in the back with the end of your barrel, or are you crawling on the ground with little or no cover, tyring to get that perfect one-shot kill, or are you diving over wooden bunkers with the flag in your hand, leading the charge against the enemy?
Once you've played a few games and know your marker and your style of play, then, and only then, should you head out to the pro-shop.
So, what's the first thing I should upgrade?
First thing ANY player should invest in is a good STANDARD aftermarket barrel. By standard, I mean a straight barrel, not he flatline. The reason for that is that the flatline is awesome, but it's picky on paint, weather can cause horrid results, and the learning curve is steep.
The things you should take into mind when selecting your aftermarket barrel are not the cost or the name brand, but the ID or Internal Diameter. You want to select a barrel that matches the paint you will be shooting most often. If your field offers Large Bore paint, you will absolutely HATE a small bore barrel. If you buy your own paint for outlaw or BYOP (Bring Your Own Paint) fields, then your selection is limitless. If your local field offers Bigball as the only option, you're going to want a barrel that matches up well with that paint. A little research will let you know the ID of your barrel and the Diameter of the paintball that you are shooting. You can also get those paintball sizers to tell you exactly what you need in the way of a barrel.
This is why Barrel kits that come with difference size backs or inserts are so popular now. They may be a bit expensive for those breaking into the sport, but they offer you an option no matter what paint you are using. Lots of players end up spending hundreds of dollars on several different bore barrels, and probably should have just gone with the barrel kit in the first place.
After you've selected your standard barrel or barrel kit, then you can look into the flatline.
So, after I get my barrel what's next?
Well, here's where it gets expensive. You need to choose your air source. Most players start out with co2 and quickly discover the problems co2 has becuase they've skipped this second most important step and went on to number three.
You should choose an air source that not only suits you and your style of play, but one that suits the weather you'll be playing in and the one that you can get filled on a regular basis.
Nitro, is by default better than co2. But it does you no good to throw $100+ at a Nitro tank if you can't get it filled when you need it. If the local field can fill Nitro to 4500psi, then a 4500psi tank will give you more shots than a 3000psi tank. If your field can only fill to 3000psi, then a 4500psi tank is a waste of money.
If you can't get nitro because you can't get the tank filled, or it's too expensive, then co2 is your only choice. But to get it to perform at a decent level your're going to have to look into upgrading your tank and air system.
First on the list for Co2 users is the selection of either an XC (eXpansion Chamber) or remote system. The XC provides additional space for any liquid co2 that is trying to get into your marker to evaporate into gas, thus making co2 more consistant shot to shot than without one. A remote does the same thing, because any liquid leaving the tank has an extended line to travel through before it can get to the marker.
Next up is a modification of the tank. If you plan on using an expansion chamber and leaving the co2 tank on your marker, then you're going to want to invest in an Anti-Syphon kit for your tank. This kit puts a "straw" in your tank at an angle that prevents ANY liquid co2 from getting into your marker.
If your a trigger happy fiend who looks at the RT and E-Grip videos on the web and your keyboard ends up covered in drool, then you're going to want to bypass co2 altogther. Almost EVERY video out there showcasing 15+bps markers of any kind are Nitro based systems.
Co2 simply CANNOT keep up at high rates of fire. As co2 is run through the system, the tank which contains it "chills" and the internal temporature of the tank drops. This in turn makes the co2 more resistant to evaporation which lowers the pressure in the tank. This in turn causes shoot down, increased use of liquid co2, and a chilling effect in the valve and on the marker itself, both of which effect the performance of the marker and can lead to condesation in the barrel which will effect accuracy as well.
So, I have my air source and barrel, can I finally get my fire-power upgrades?
Yep, now's the time to select your fire-power upgrades. There are a few options out there for the A-5, and those are the RT (Responce Trigger) and the E-Grip. Again, you're going to want to select the option that suits your game and one that you are going to be able to use on the field, so check with your field owners. See if they allow the RT or modes of fire.
If you intend on going to any tournaments or your field doesn't allow the RT, then the E-grip is your choice. The E-Grip allows you to "program" your marker to fire in Semi-Auto, burst modes, and full auto. Since 99.9% of all tourneys are Semi-Auto Only, the E-grip will give you the electronic firing system which can be modded to fire very quickly. Since it requires a tool to change firing modes, the E-grip is COMPLETELT tourney legal.
If you play a lot of Rec and outlaw paintball, then the RT may be for you. Be sure to check with your field owner and your friends before opening up with the RT.
The RT is basically a air driven piston behind the trigger which uses blow-back gasses from the valve to reset the trigger about three times as fast as you can cycle the trigger manually. It also allows you to mimic full auto and bust modes because you can maintain a certain ammount of pressure on the trigger and thus fire off strings. The Idea here is that you pull the trigger until the marker fires and you leave your finger at that spot. As the piston forces the trigger out, the pressure forces your finger to move back a bit before the pressure you are maintaining on the trigger forces it back, thus cycling the marker again. This is called Sweetspotting and is Illegal in all but .01% of tourneys and on a lot of fields.
What's next?
From here, it's all personal preference. If you want to add cosmetic upgrades to build a flashy "space gun" or an intimidating "Mil-Sim" replica, it's totally up to you. You can add front grips, Regs, flatlines, scopes, red dots, etc... At this point it's entirely up to you and your style of play.
Hope this helps...