Problem 2000 'cocker

[paintballmagnet]

My new 2000 has been sent back to factory twice with no results. It will work fine for several shots and will then refuse to cock. It works fine when manually cocked. I checked regulator output and set it at 500 lbs. This worked for 50 or so shots and then the same problem came back. Do I have a bad regulator or what?
Please any help will be appreciated! I've owned this thing for 6 months and have yet to play a game with it.

[turtlesnipe]

I'm not sure about the recocking problem, but try turning your reg down to 400 psi. That's what the factory recommends, and thats what I've found works best. I do recall once when my bro somehow turned up my gen-x to 700 psi, and it wouldn't shoot properly until I got it back down into the 400s. If I had to guess I'd say there was a piece of debris or dirt in the 3-way or ram. So try turning down the reg first, and if that doesnt work take the gun to an airsmith and have them check out the pneumatics.

[ptflyer]

when you say it will "refuse to cock"....do you mean it will fire......but then the bolt won't go back?.....

or it will fire the bolt will go back and foward...(indicating the ram is fine)....just that it's not cocked...

if that is the case ....it sounds like your lug is set to high as to not catch on the lug "every time"...(adjust your lug)....or your sear spring is "binding"...or weak or something.....(check your spring...make sure it's seated correct)....


those are the only things I can suggest with what you told us

[paintballmagnet]

Thanks for the replies. I have tried several different output pressures to no avail. I can grasp the cocking rod and manually cock the hammer with no problem. Gun will fire once, block will come back far enough to feed paint into barrel but will refuse to cock, the rod just follows the block forward. I have tried adjusting the sear engagement, all the way to where it is too long to release at all. Today it started working, the velocity was 230f.p.s.. When I tried to increase velocity using spring adjustment, it stopped cocking all over again. Thanks again!

[snake19]

It might be your cocking rod.

You should make sure your cocking rod is screwed in all the way. If it still doesn't recock you might need to screw the cocking knob further in.

My friend had this problem on his cocker and this is what I did to fix it.

[ry_goody]

This is probably the problem. Degass your gun, and then pull on the back block, the gun should cock at the very end of the back blocks path. Like on my gun when I pull the backblock back and let go of it, it doesn't go forward any noticable amount at all, because the point at which it cocks is at the VERY VERY end of the distance the back block goes back.

To Make sure that this is the problem, gas up your gun and unscrew the cocking rod just a little bit, like when your taking it out to adjust the main spring tension. But just unscrew it a tiny bit (like a half turn), see if it works, if it doesn't unscrew it a little bit more, keep doing that until it works. If you get to the point where the cocking rod is off the gun and it still doesn't work, then thats not the problem. But if it does work then you need to move the long hex nut thing on the cocking rod farther back, so loosen the set screw in it and then unscrew the hex nut thing back until you have it to the spot were it works with the cocking rod fully screwed into the block. The cocking rod should not be partially screwed into the hammer, that was only to test it.

If the gun doesn't even cock when you pull the back block back then take an allen wrench and loosen the set screw on the end of it and screw the long hex nut type thing onto the cocking rod more, so it is farther forward. Again, when you pull back the back block is should cock at the very end.

Tell me if that fixed it, cause there is still another possibly... assuming your timing is correct and your pressure are set correctly. AND BTW your main regulator shoudl be set at 250 at the most.

[ptflyer]

Like I said ealier ...sounds to me like your hammer lug needs to be adjusted.....adjusting your cocking rod will do nothing for your problem of the sear not catching the lug.....it only adjusts how far back your bolt goes......


and I have no Idea what the hell he is talking about having your Main reg set at no more than 250psi???

stock cockers run at about 375-400 psi.....

now your front reg.....that is a different story....but there is no way to tell what pressure it is rnning.....you have to just adjust it til the back block moves all the way back then turn it a quarter turn more.....

[NICKYB]

Pt.. how can it be a sear lug problem if he manually cocks it fine..... especially if he lengthened it so far out that he couldnt fire the gun.... you may have a problem with your ram not pushing the back block out or something... or it may be a timing rod problem....

[ptflyer]

because when you cock it by hand the sear is at dead top and it catches...but when you pull the trigger....the sear doesn't get all the way back in time for the lug to catch....it's just a tiny bit ...but enough to make it not catch.....so if you make it a bit longer....(an 1/8 -1/4 turn)..the sear won't have to be at dead top to catch the lug.....and it's an easy fix.....that is....if that is the problem.....

I should go on to say that setting the lug lenth is the first step in timing a marker.....so but changing the lug lenth you also change the point of fire which can cause you to have excess blow back.....

so what I am trying to say is after you adjust the lug...you should go on and finish timing it completely.....

[NICKYB]

Lets clear some things up..... have you had any trigger work or done any trigger jobs to your gun recently? Your trigger return spring may be too soft, or a set screw may be screwing you up.... your ram may be busted or jammed with crud.... or your timing rod may be way to long.... try those and see if thats it

[ry_goody]

Ptflyer, 99 or older cockers run at 375-400 stock, 200+ cockers run at 250 stock, I do know what the hell I am talking about.

If he pulls back on the back block and the sear catches the hammer then its probably just fine as long as the cocking point is behind the firing point. Once you get every other setting correct timing is not hard at all, I mean its as simple as putting firing point in front of the cocking point, nothing more. There is a range in the pull they have to be in, but once everything else is set right that range is pretty big. Now optimizing so it will work *perfect* is a different story, but getting it too just work isn't a very diffucult task when it comes to timing.

ANYWAYS, I once had this problem with my cocker and the cocking rod was set too short, the length of the cocking rod is very important to the reliability of a cocker.

Also, another time I had a similiar problem and it was because the locktite that held the timing rod in place on the collar had become worn off and it was sliding around in the collar (yes I do have a threading timing rod).

[jett]

alright children take it easy. I AGREE WITH PT! I just had this problem on my 2k1 cocker. its the lug. Just adjust it. i gve it a 1/4 turn and it shot like a dream all over again.

i was shooting but the bolt wasnt going back far enough to let paint feed. take out the bolt drop ur allen key in and give it a clockwise turn untill it works. itll work. truuuuust me.

and if i doesnt work sorry man. cockers can be a kick in the noots sometimes.