trigger modifications

[theclaw]

ok ok.... i read the trigger job thread but i need something more specific. i've also seen ppl here that say they have 1mm trigger pulls. how do you do this? i see results on some modifications, but when i combine several, i always wind up with recocking problems and the sear does not catch the bolt and goes into a full auto thing. how do i get my pull to be at 1mm or less? (people that have this, post how u did it please) pics would be nice, but i can still figure it out. oh also, whats the best loader to get with these mods? i'm thinking about the reloader....

[ace6160]

The stickies or model98.net.


Searches help to.:rolleyes:

[theclaw]

ace, i checked out the stickies and they aren't very explanatory. also, model98.net discourages doing some mods b/c "they could lead to problems", yet some ppl say they did them and have no problems. i want to know how to get the shortest, lightest, pull w/o problems. HELP.

[Tippmann Owns]

ace, do ever answer a question? this kids not asking abad question at all.
Ya i was having the same probelms as you, i also didnt like the feeling of the tape on anything trigger related (it just felt kinda mushy). So, i took matters into my own hands. The first (and most important thing) is to lighten your sear and trigger springs (make absolutely sure that the sear spring isnt to short, the trigger spring cant be cut down pretty small). The next steps are were i started to improvise. For the way i did it ull need a atleast a drill and hopefully a dremel. The first thing did was add a trigger stop. This gets rid of any slack in the trigger making it MUCH easier to walk or fan, the way i did this was 1. i drilled a small hole (1/8" i think) in the back of the trigger and put in a small metal pin, this makes contact with the trigger frame and stops the trigger much sooner than it ususally would, i secrued the pin in there with krazy glue (i wish id done it with 2 part epoxy). A great way to make this mod even better is to do it with a screw, that way u can adjust it by turning the screw. Next, i dabbed 2 part epoxy (krazy glue works to) on the part of the trigger that almost touches the trigger spring housing, this pushes the trigger forward, ill try and get a picture, its hard to explain. The biggest thing though is turning your gun electro, this may not be possible for your, but it is incredible the difference it makes. if u have any questions or any of this confused u PM, ill try to get pics for the whole thing.

REMEMBER TO GET A DOUBLE TRIGGER, if you cant you can make one, its really pretty easy

[Satanicsanta090]

get heat shrink wrap at radioshack and put it around the pins the job tells you to tape. Take a hairdryer and heat up the pin+wrap to make sure the wrap is snugly fitted on. Put the pins back in the correct slots and now when your gun is cocked, the trigger slider is like 1/20mm away from your sear. Add a trigger stop after your trigger and your pull is now extremely short.

www.m98center.com has the trigger stop mod. WHile youre at this be sure to silence your sear spring with the heat shrink wrap.

[theclaw]

this is my trigger set-up: double trigger (already had it), silenced the sear spring, taken out the safety and trigger spring, made a trigger stop, put heat shrink tubing on the pin the sear rests on, and put heat shrink tubing on the pin closer to the sear that holds the trigger in (the one in the the bigger hole.) i tested it out, and it shot fine for a few shots, but then went into full auto (probably b/c i'm missing a valve bolt, and b/c my tank was almost empty). i tried using a braces rubber band to replace the sear spring but the sear would only catch the bolt about half of the time and if i put gas in it, it would go into full auto (might be because of missing valve bolt/ gas shortage, though). my pull is now very light and about 1.5-2 mm long. i would still like to shorten it a little. do you reccomend trying rubber bands again or should i get the maddmann spring kit and use it's green sear spring (and drive spring... model98.net said it would be good for increasing ROF)? also, should i do the "eliminate trigger slop" mod on model98.net?

[Tippmann Owns]

yes, do anything an everythign ucan to eliminate slop, it makes it much harder to rip, but didnt ualready put in a trigger stop? if u did it right then it should eliminate slop. as for the full auto problem, 1. if u have anymods at all to shorten sear travel time, remove them 2. jsut use heavier, or more, elastics

[E r y k]

i wouldnt put heatshrink in the bigger hole of the trigger... just because it cuts down travel, it also cuts down the chance of the sear resting properly on it.

sometimes the sear doesnt rest above it, and it just hits the back of the slider thats why you are getting the full auto

[theclaw]

ok so take out the tubing around the pin in the bigger hole. i don't understand why this would affect the sear. anyway, should i use a drill bit for the other trigger pin like on model98.net? also, should i keep the stock sear spring or get the madmann kit or use fresher rubber bands?