game_guy02
07-30-2004, 08:11 AM
Now, I may be headed way off on this one, but I think this might be worth looking into. A little while ago, pooptarts92 posted about a 1 mm trigger pull. It didn't work, as the sear wasn't always catching the bolt.
Now, I'm sitting here looking at my sear and bolt and thinking "Hmm, how can I make this work?" and I think I may have found the answer.
When the bolt is in position (meaning the sear is sitting in the little notch) the sear isn't angled to its full potential. You can check this by looking at the sear's angle before it is in the notch and after. On mine, it seems I have at least a 1 mm clearance. Now, if we were to, say, file that notch down so the sear rests higher, that 1 mm pull might work and not cause full-auto, and poor-cycle effects.
Let's look at this from a mechanical point of view; the full auto effect is caused by the sear resting it's lower-angled end too high, thus causing it to not fully catch the notch.
Two problems there, one, if the pin is taped, that 1 mm extra I referred to earlier might not come into effect at all, and two if that 1 mm is still there will the extra distance it must travel cause it to not work?
For reason number two, it should work, as a longer area of sear movement is the opposite of a shorter sear movement (which in this case caused a problem).
For the first problem, looking at the sear resting pin while the sear is not being pushed by the bolt, the pin is being pushed back as far as it can go, so tape might make it sit where it normally would, which in this case might undermine the point of the tape.
However, the fact that when the recievers are put back together that pin's push-back might be corrected or helped somewhat, as the holes on the reciever's probably aren't 100% the same.
Here is a possible solution, modding the trigger. Not your conventional mod, but on top of the spring casing on the trigger itself. If the tape doesnt work, we can always make our trigger trip the sear early. This seems as though it would take something paper thin, but that is one piece of paper quicker then it not being there. We could even try adding a piece of thin cardboard, which is roughly the same width as the tape would be. (The occuring problem with this is that the cardboard might get roughed up by the sear and eventually beocme a junky mess) If that doesn't work, we can try adding another wrap of tape to our pin.
The theory behind all this is that if we allow the sear more room to catch the bolt, we can make our pull shorter without it going full-auto. I guess what we are really looking for is that "sweet spot" where the sear catches enough to keep it from spewing gas, but doesnt get to friendly and refuse to leave it's good pal the bolt.
If there is any adventurous tippy owners out there willing to give this a shot, please contact me as I would like to know if this works or not. Also, the link to pooptarts' thread is: http://pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=246039 . Thanks for reading.
Now, I'm sitting here looking at my sear and bolt and thinking "Hmm, how can I make this work?" and I think I may have found the answer.
When the bolt is in position (meaning the sear is sitting in the little notch) the sear isn't angled to its full potential. You can check this by looking at the sear's angle before it is in the notch and after. On mine, it seems I have at least a 1 mm clearance. Now, if we were to, say, file that notch down so the sear rests higher, that 1 mm pull might work and not cause full-auto, and poor-cycle effects.
Let's look at this from a mechanical point of view; the full auto effect is caused by the sear resting it's lower-angled end too high, thus causing it to not fully catch the notch.
Two problems there, one, if the pin is taped, that 1 mm extra I referred to earlier might not come into effect at all, and two if that 1 mm is still there will the extra distance it must travel cause it to not work?
For reason number two, it should work, as a longer area of sear movement is the opposite of a shorter sear movement (which in this case caused a problem).
For the first problem, looking at the sear resting pin while the sear is not being pushed by the bolt, the pin is being pushed back as far as it can go, so tape might make it sit where it normally would, which in this case might undermine the point of the tape.
However, the fact that when the recievers are put back together that pin's push-back might be corrected or helped somewhat, as the holes on the reciever's probably aren't 100% the same.
Here is a possible solution, modding the trigger. Not your conventional mod, but on top of the spring casing on the trigger itself. If the tape doesnt work, we can always make our trigger trip the sear early. This seems as though it would take something paper thin, but that is one piece of paper quicker then it not being there. We could even try adding a piece of thin cardboard, which is roughly the same width as the tape would be. (The occuring problem with this is that the cardboard might get roughed up by the sear and eventually beocme a junky mess) If that doesn't work, we can try adding another wrap of tape to our pin.
The theory behind all this is that if we allow the sear more room to catch the bolt, we can make our pull shorter without it going full-auto. I guess what we are really looking for is that "sweet spot" where the sear catches enough to keep it from spewing gas, but doesnt get to friendly and refuse to leave it's good pal the bolt.
If there is any adventurous tippy owners out there willing to give this a shot, please contact me as I would like to know if this works or not. Also, the link to pooptarts' thread is: http://pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=246039 . Thanks for reading.