what to do?

[ikey]

ok, my internals are ND ram assembly with a rat hole SS hammer. equalizer bolt, stock pull pin, stock valve. this comes out to 1220 grains. in my current setup im runing at 120 psi, (indoor at 260fps) so basically about 140 for 280 (i think that is what it was last time i checked). im not sure now because lat time i went paintballin i just put in my new ran assembly, so after i turned the dwell down so next time i can turn my pressure up mabe 20 psi to benefit from the extra effiency i was getting. im thinking i either want to stay with the stock valve and get an lpr, and run the valve like 180- 190 psi for extreme effeincy, or get the rip valve. money is not an issue, and im happy with my setup. but if an lpr is so amazingly sweet that makes my gun so much better than i need to get get one rite now then i will get one, but honestly i have never used one for a long period of time. i know how to set one and i have tested impy with them. but i just dont know. any help would be great.

[toothpastedog]

do you have:

a tapeworm/gp valve?
a vision board or a was board?
a halo or evoII?
a new barrel?
a hpa setup?

[ikey]

i have a tapeworm, WAS baord, evo2, J&J edge barrel kit, and a crossfire 68/4500, phat flame drop with a SP dovetail on/off, ND blade trigger, ND clamping no rise

[toothpastedog]

get an lpr setup. run your impulse at 200psi, with a very low dwell, and run the solenoid at about 65-95psi. oh, and buy a lighter pull pin.

[ikey]

yeah i could, if i got the lpr i would run high pressure so i would use the stock valve. my internals are at about 1220, and i had a problem with them being to light when i first got my gun, but with the mods i got now it probably wouldnt matter. the one thing is that i can memorize my fps to pressure. like i know noe im gettin about 260 fps off of 120 psi (probably different cause u lowered my pressure to get more effency out of my new ram assembly). i tested it once and at about 140 psi i was getting roughly 280 fps. so if i ever play with my freinds (most of which arent as serious as i am about paintball) off a course i could self chrono my gun. i sapose i could do that with an lpr but it would be harder, i would be hesitant to do it without a chrono. and i dunno if it is user error, but most of the impys i have seen go down had an lpr, and most of the time the guy is complaining about his lpr or his velocoty or consistancy is messed. i played at my usual feild and thier factory team decicded to show up. most of em use impys and most have lprs. i would say i heard atleast 2 guys complain about thier lpr, and one guy was having major problems, he couldnt really get his gun to fire. but he got it fixed by the end of the game. my point is, these guys play paintball alot, and have experience, and they still have problems. to me an lpr is just another thing to go wrong. im not a tournament player. so to me relaibility is a biggie, (im not saying that it isnt fora tournament player) but i would rather have something mabe not as good that will not let me down like the RIP valve then something that could potentially cause me problems. right noe im leaning for the RIP valve.

[ikey]

wow that was officially my longest post. im so proud of my self. also, i do know ppl who never have problems with their lpr, but it is just one more thing to go wrong.

[toothpastedog]

just get an lpr, if it breaks, i'll fix it for free;it won't break.

here is what you do;

-install the lpr
-go to the chrono
-adjust your input pressure to the gun to be 150psi
-adjust you output from the lpr to be its max (150psi, screw the knob or screw on it all the way out)
-shoot the gun over the chrono and adjust the dwell up or down until it shoots 300fps
-raise the input to 200psi
-lower lpr's output till the gun shoots 280fps

[ikey]

couldnt you do it the other way, like put your dwell real low, then put ur pressre to 200, then turn the lpr up till u get to 280? and also, like what ifi got hit in the little hose, well there should be slack init so it doesnt break but like the little fittings that come with them? they look like they are plastic? i dunno. i havin a hard time with this cause i know the reg will not leak or need alot of matence (if it does i hear that u can put ur pressure to the psi you were running previous to the lpr, and then screw in ur lpr all the way so it is all the way open, this should make it so that it is not like there even is an lpr. then u can run the setup u had b4 the lpr). but i mean outside, if a hose were to leak or break, those little fittings on the lpr that u cant really get because they only come with impuse lpr kits mostly, sumthin like that. the rip vavle will make my gun allot less matence, and it will still get my gun 200- 300 more shots, and possibly lower pressure(i might want the same pressure to increase effeciecy). an lpr should get me 400-500 more shots, make by solinoid pressure lower(i see no real advantage to this because i already have the WAS baord so no chops, but it could make my gun a little gentler on paint. but thats not a problem cause running at 120 psi normally i should not be breaking any kinda paint.) it could lower my kick, ok theres a good advantage. the effency is not really important cause im only getting about 100 mores shots with the lpr than i would with the rip valve. the lpr is going to need more matence and my gun will be harder to use (not by much. and there wont be too much more matenece but there are seals in everything including lprs, like i said more things to go wrong or that need lubing). the lpr will add weight to my gun. (not much but mabe what an ounce, but an impy is already heavy and every ounce adds up). also i am not a fan of the extra stuff in front of the gun, it doesnt look bad to me, but i think i like the simple regular front cap with noting on it. if this lpr is going to do something or not do something that i did or did not state abouve please educate me.

[ikey]

now thats a post, i think i broke a sweat with that one.

[impybackman]

dont worry bout addin weight so much to the front of the gun it will acctually help it balance out a little more considering u hvae a tank on the back and i thought my imp would be heavy but once your on the field you shouldnt be worried about wieght or even thinkin bout how much your gun wieghts so really it wont be that bad on gun wieght plus if u have new internals the wieght drops n e way

[Awhislyle]

OMG TPD someone other than you double post too

[toothpastedog]

"couldnt you do it the other way, like put your dwell real low, then put ur pressre to 200, then turn the lpr up till u get to 280?" -no, by doing this you would use way more air, possibly even more air than normall and get a minimal shots per tank count. an lpr should be setup with the valve pressure really high, 200-250, the dwell really low, depend on setup, and the lpr's output around 65. this is because you want to main valve open for only a short amount of time (that time it is open is called the dwell time) so you use the least amount of air possible.

" i havin a hard time with this cause i know the reg will not leak or need alot of matence" there is a 90% chance you will never need to clean your reg and i highly doubt it will ever break. even if, for some wierd reason, the seal break or become worn, which i again doubt happen, all you need to do is unscrew the adjuster knob, take out the internals, replace and lube the specific seal, and pop it back in, all in under 5 minutes.

you can buy those little quick disconnect fitting for lp hose that come with the smart parts lpr: http://www.buypb.com/detail.asp?product_ID=SP-LPR-90Elbow-254

" the rip vavle will make my gun allot less matence" -no, all it will mean it that you will not have to lube your valve, which you only had to do on the stock impulse every 6,000 shots or so.

"it will still get my gun 200- 300 more shots" while this does depend on yoursetup, unless you have an lpr and an equalizer, supafly, dart, or warped sportz bolt, you will only get about 50-150 more shots per tank with the rip valve.

"an lpr should get me 400-500 more shots, make by solinoid pressure lower(i see no real advantage to this because i already have the WAS baord so no chops, but it could make my gun a little gentler on paint. but thats not a problem cause running at 120 psi normally i should not be breaking any kinda paint.) it could lower my kick, ok theres a good advantage. the effency is not really important cause im only getting about 100 mores shots with the lpr than i would with the rip valve." -the lpr adds to your shot per tank count because it allows the bolt/solenoid and main valve pressure to be difference, and your dwell to be way lower-as i said before. it has nothing to do with just lowering your solenoid pressure. the was board still does chop once and a while so an lpr add extra insurance. also, the lpr will last longer than the was board's eye system, so that is another plus for the lpr. the lpr also makes you impulse as consistant as it can physically get. an impulse running it's solenoid/bolt at 120 psi can break your finger, let alone just break a measly paintball. if you were to use a lpr with a rip valve, you would get about 200-400 more shots per fill, if you were only to use a lpr, you would get an extra 150-300 more shots perfill, if you were only to use a rip valve, you would get an extra 50-150 shots per fill .

"the lpr is going to need more matence and my gun will be harder to use" well, it won't require any serious amount of maintenence, i doubt it will ever require any maintenence. how would an lpr make you impulse harder to use?

"the lpr will add weight to my gun" -can you lift a small glass of milk, the lpr will wiegh about 1/4 that glass of milk's wieght.

"also i am not a fan of the extra stuff in front of the gun, it doesnt look bad to me, but i think i like the simple regular front cap with noting on it." -mount the lpr on your vert asa.

read this: http://pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1899311#post1899311

[toothpastedog]

Originally posted by Awhislyle
OMG TPD someone other than you double post too

not to let that go un-noticed :P

p.s. it wouldn't let me do it the first try, aparently i tried to post that less than 30 seconds after i posted that other post about all his missgivings.

[ikey]

ok second question, wouldnt you not want to use the rip valve with am lpr because u want your vavle to be high pressure and the nd valve is low pressure? i was told that the stock vavle set at about 200 was better for an lpr. second, how can u run an impy vavle at 250 psi when the maxi starts releasing air at about 220 i think? and the burst disk goes at about 240 i think?

[ikey]

ok, and what if i took a hit right in that little flimsy plastic fitting for the lpr hose? those things dont impress me. with tehy last? what about the lpr hoses? where cna u buy extras incase something ever did happen? which lpr ND combo or SP. right now im leaning for the SP cause it like the looks of both regs buy the sp is smaller, ive seen the insides of it on wolverines site and it basically has noting in it, and its much cheaper. any comment or lprs?

[toothpastedog]

"wouldnt you not want to use the rip valve with am lpr because u want your vavle to be high pressure and the nd valve is low pressure?" well, the only reason people say the rip valve is a low pressure valve is because it has amazing flow properties. now those can be utalized by any pressure, but since the stock valve, and every other impulse valve prior to the rip valve's release, had not bad, but definitely not good flow properties which didn't work as well with lower opperating pressures-thus since the rip valve worked equally well with hp as well as lp, it is commonly call a low pressure valve. so, the rip valve, when paired with a bolt that has an angled intake, like the equalizer bolt, will work just as well at hp as at lp.

"what if i took a hit right in that little flimsy plastic fitting for the lpr hose? " -people call them flimsy, but they aren't. i have gotton hit in one on one of my impulses and i am still using it. i preffer the normal metal barbs, just because they last longer, just because the way i have my lprs setup-on the asa-it is easier to use a normal barb.

"what about the lpr hoses? where cna u buy extras incase something ever did happen?" -come on man, stop testing me, the hose they use is common lp hose found on all cockers. go to any pb store and you will find some. would you like it in 6" segments or 12" segments?

"which lpr ND combo or SP. right now im leaning for the SP cause it like the looks of both regs buy the sp is smaller, ive seen the insides of it on wolverines site and it basically has noting in it, and its much cheaper. any comment or lprs?" -i would go with the sp lpr kit. it performs just as well as the New designz combo, yet it is way way smaller. i use on on my cocker, and both of my impulses. if i didn't already have lprs though, i would buy the scm lpr by akalmp, it is the one lpr that is self compensating-meaning if there are any spikes in pressure it's output will remain the same, all other lprs would let the pressure spike go through the output. if you have the money, aka is the way to go.

[impybackman]

personally i like the ndz but thats cuz i have one on my gun and its pimp with the all-american barrel back right above it looks like a perfect match but its prefrence

[ikey]

how would you take your front cap off with an lpr? i know the ND lpr has screws so you can loosen the reg from the front cap? is this right? does the SP lpr have this?

[toothpastedog]

why would you want to take your lpr off your front/valve cap? the new designz one has set screws, like you said, and the impulse lpr just screws off (it is screwed in-the threads are 1/8-27npt (the standard 1/8 npt) and all you need is a vice, or something to hold the valve cap, and an adjustible cresent wrench. easy as pie. but why would you be worried about this?

[ikey]

oh wait im a retard. what i was asking was how can u take the front cap off with the lpr hose going into the gun, it would get all twisted. but thats why they have the fitting. so i guess that is the answer to my question. but that little barb that they used to use must have made this hard. i dunno about those barbs but im sure the hose is much harded to take off than taking it out of a fitting.

[toothpastedog]

well, that little "annoying" 90* black little fitting on the sp lpr, and nd lpr combo, well, that is like a little quick disconnect thingy for the lp hose (it works just like a macro or micro line connecter). or if you setup your own lpr with two normall barbs, then all you do is get a pair of plyers, and pull the hose off, then reconnect it when your are read to.

[ikey]

yep. hey while im on the subject of lprs. i took a look at the aka lpr. its looks great. its about 80 bucks for just the reg. thats alright i guess for such a high quality product. they only make them for vikings, excals, cockers, and mabe other stuff. im assuming that for an imp setup you would have to buy the cocker one with the threads in the back and screw it to your verticle asa or your front cap? second, i do like regs that are in the front cap, like the ajustable respirator on the pimp, that new one on the dark impy. but they dont have very much internal volume. so in order to do that wouldnt u have to turn your pressure way up to above 200 psi? like 250 or sumthin? but wouldnt that make the releif valve on the maxi start venting air and wouldnt that little burst disk on your virticle asa blow too?

[toothpastedog]

correct, that is what you would do with aka's scm lpr. with the low internal volume lprs' like the evil resperator, and the warped one, you don't need to worry about anything; the solenoid's air reserve inside the left side of the gun is large enough to store enough air to prevent shoot down or bolt stick. you will not need to do anything different with these lprs. one thing that i will say about them is that a rip valve or another high flow valve like evil's valve (only use with resperator though) sure helps with lower volume lprs.

[ikey]

yeah but performance cant be as good right? i mean if u compared low volume lprs to like the ND combo with that big front cap, ND would give better results right? i would thing so especially in high rates of fire. but tehn again wharped sports wouldnt put a bad lpr on a 1050 dolloar impy.

[toothpastedog]

well, don't give warped too much credit, they don't really deserve it, but no, there is no performance different between a lpr with a lower internal volume and one with a higher one. like i said, a new valve will help more with the lower internal volume lpr's, but there isn't any down side to them when compaired to one with a higher internal volume (like ans's jackhammer II vs. sp's lpr).