tank info..

[mindgame]

ok - i usually do about 2-3 hours of searching and looking at old threads a night ( at least for the past 2 weeks) but i havent ran into much info about tanks -

im guessing a tank does not come with the gun - but i dont know much about them..ive seen enough to gather that a tank isent just a tank - i see alot of stuff about 1700-3500 ect. psi and what no but i have no idea what this stuff means..nor the difference in tanks and there quality and advantages -

can someone please point me out or throw me a link somewhere that would give mea good explanation and breakdown of this stuff - also how much shouldi be expectign to pay for a decent to good tank -



any reccomendations for the a-5 ...ive read some reccomend getting a 16 oz tank and nothign bigger cuz the tippy is already heavy -

imlooking to get a marker this week but need a few more facts before i go in ...this being one of them...



thank you..

[painterballer]

umm well there are CO2 tanks, and HPA tanks, hpa tanks run on high pressure probably where u heard the 3000, 4500psi from. hpa tanks cost anywhere from 80 bucks(smallest) to 200+(biggest) the smallest tank is 47ci(cubic inches)3000psi(pounds per square inch) the bigger any of those numbers are the more shots u get off a tank. CO2 is liquid carbon......(im drawing a blank) well anyways it get extremely cold, and the consistancey is bad in cold weather( velosity spikes and drops) i say dont get an a5 nd just get an electro spyder for starters( u will save more money for paint) and it depends on weather u play woods or speed ball, cuz i personnaly dont think that the a5 fires fast enough for speed ball, but it might be good for woods, well thats just my :twocents:

[HurleyHero67]

If you're dealing with Co2, don't bother worrying about all the pressure stuff you heard. That all has to do with HPA tanks, so don't worry about it.

The tank may or may not come with your marker, depends on where you buy it from and the deal you get. With Co2, there isn't much of a quality difference from tank to tank, they're pretty much all just steel co2 tanks. 16oz is a great size, the shot difference from a 20 to a 16 isn't that big, but the 16 is much more compact in design. Expect to pay roughly $16 or so for one. Look for an aluminum, they are lighter tanks than the chromolly.

On a side note, when you get your tank, you should head over to your local proshop and get them to install an anti-siphon tube in it. It will only be around $15 max, and will make your co2 more consistent and clean by not letting as much liquid co2 into your marker.

As for the marker, what type of paintball do you play or plan on playing? What's your budget, how often do you play?

[mindgame]

im more into woodsball and scenerio at this time - so a tippy seemed better then a spyder at thsi time..the a-5 with the cyclone isent a speedball gun but can shoot pretty fast - especially with a the response trigger (however this is no good in tourneys if i want to get into em)

id prob end up playing like every other month at this point - everymonth if i can (this depends if we are able to sneak our own paint in which i may be able to do)


but im guessing if i want to get into playing in the winter as well then nitro will eventually be the way to go - eventually!!!

[HurleyHero67]

In that case, there's nothing wrong with going with the A-5.

As for winter, co2 is usable, but there are consequences. You'll get things like velocity spikes and dirtier internals. Just keep something like a wool sock over it if it's that cold.

[PBfreak01]

Well, there is one pressure you need to worry about with CO2: 850 PSI (which is the pressure any amount of liquid CO2 exerts on the tank). If the pressure climbs higher than that, you're in trouble.

[painterballer]

y are u in trouble???? is the bottle going to explode or something.

[PBfreak01]

If the CO2 gets too hot, too quickly, then yes, it's very possible that the relief valve won't be able to handle the pressure (luckily, in most cases, the CO2 tanks used in paintball are far too small to pass stage one)...The order of events would look something like this:

1) Burst nut/disk it torn out of the valve neck by the pressure. If the pressure is far too high (most emergency reliefs are rated for 1000 PSI, I believe), it will probably ricochet around the room.

2) Should the pressure still climb after this, luck will have the valve itself come off. If not...then the tank will explode after it red-lines (which I believe 1700 PSI, nearly twice CO2's normal operating pressure).

3) Should the pressure still not be relieved (and the tank is still whole), the tank will be shooting around the room (now you know why bulk tanks are straped to the wall, eh ;) ).

Luckily for the paintball layman, it will be an uncommon occurence to come across bulk tanks (to which 2 & 3 apply almost exclusivly, but most uncommonly [and even then, only if precautions aren't taken]) where this situation may happen. However, if a bulk tank were to explode and you could draw a line of sight to it, try to imagine being next to a fragmentation grenade when it went off. Depending on how full the tank was, it could be a hell of a lot worse :eek:...

Now you know why they tell you to keep compressed gas away from heat, huh? :P