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View Full Version : What happens if you dont oil your 98 custom?


pballnewb
12-04-2001, 05:19 PM
what happens if you dont oil your 98 customs? how many times do i have to oil it? i just played 1 game and i was wondering if i shoould oil it, the o-ring in my co2 tank is getting black so i cleaned it, should i oil it? what parts of the gun should i oil? and does anyone know where to get Hoppes #9 oil? can you get it at like Wal-mart or something? thanks

renegade
12-04-2001, 07:34 PM
you will wear out the oring and all the internals out quickly and ruin the seal that all the parts need you will first lose gas efincy then leak alot of gas later on

C4pyro
12-06-2001, 04:14 PM
Well what he said, and the fact that your marker will jam, you'll shread the internals and they will leave filings behind and it will further destroy your marker. It will basically self destruct so please give your marker some TLC.

Pookister569
12-06-2001, 04:31 PM
well i use WD-40 and that works fine. whenever u take the gun apart, just oil all the moving parts. and when u put the tank on, oil the threads on it and put a few drops of oil in the tank adapter so when u shoot the gun the oil will go into the valve and oil that.

neo71665
12-06-2001, 04:58 PM
first off DO NOT USE WD-40, with that out of the way go find yourself a good water based oil. go to where you bought your marker and tell 'em you want some paintball gun oil and ask them to show you how to oil it. paintball oil is pretty cheap (like $2 for 1 fl oz). put a drop on every o-ring and use your finger to smear it around the o-ring. 1 oz of the stuff will last damn near forever, and oiling it after every use/day of play is prob best esp if you play in a dusty place. the more you take care of your gun the longer it will tke care of you. if nothing else veggie oil will work in a pinch

Pookister569
12-06-2001, 08:51 PM
well i dunno what u but have u even tried using WD-40? heck my local field uses it for the rental guns and plus u can use it on real guns, why not paintball guns. paintball oil is cheap but WD-40 is cheaper and works just as good.

Originally posted by neo71665
if nothing else veggie oil will work in a pinch
i don't get it, WD-40 is "bad" or atleast so u say, but u can use veggie oil on the gun if u have nothing else.... :confused: :confused:

PaintballPimp01
12-07-2001, 01:39 AM
Wow, I hope your local field likes to replace the o-rings in their rentals ALOT. Paintballguns, while they may be a form of firearms, are not "real" guns. WD-40 is petrolium based, meaning it will eat away the urathane o-rings in the gun, destroying it's seals. Thats not good. If you cant get hold of an "official" paintball oil, go to your local ACE or other hardware store and ask for Pneumatic Tool Oil. A 20 oz. bottle is about $8, that is a deal. Just make sure what you are using contains NO petrolium! And another thing! Do not just replace your urathane o-rings with regular rubber ones. They are not made to withstand the pressure of an N2 system or extreme cold of a CO2 system. Oil your gun after every day of play, a drop or 2 in the ASA a day, will keep the Airsmith away.

neo71665
12-07-2001, 04:01 PM
yeah what he said

pballnewb
12-07-2001, 09:16 PM
ok.... thanks.. when i oil my gun, where do i oil? like the ACUAL o-ring? or also around the o-ring and the threads and stuff, and when inside the gun, do i oil the whole white back bold or just the o-ring, and do i oil the black o-ring that takes the impact of the bolt?

PaintballPimp01
12-07-2001, 09:27 PM
To be perfectly honest, I have never stripped down a 98 or ProCarbine, I don't own either, but this question can pretty much be applied to most markers. Oiling the o-rings on the bolt is always a good idea, as for the rest of the internals, like I said, put a few drops in the ASA (the part where the air is connected to the gun) and after a few shots it should have moved throughout the gun, lubing all crucial pieces. You should do this every day before you actually get out and play, at the chrono station would be good.

macmighty12
12-13-2001, 03:30 PM
why do u guys take the gun apart??? u dont need to what i do is: keep the tank screwed on and take off the elbow. run water dont the front of the front bolt nad move the cocking handel back and forth but dont cock the gun back. after doing this fire a few shots of air and this will dry it out. then oil the o-rings thast all i do and thats what i was told to do. i dont even think you need to oil the linkage arm.

MAKE SURE U LEAVE THE TANK ON!!!! the reason for the tank being on is so that no water can get in the valve so MAKE SURE you have the air in to seal it up

neo71665
12-13-2001, 03:44 PM
IMO with all the steel in a C98 i would be worried about rust. and if it moves it never hurts to oil it to cut down on friction

macmighty12
12-13-2001, 03:47 PM
yea but i had to get a new valve 30 buks cuz it was stripped from takiin it off to polish internals and they guy said to try not to take it aprt cuz its SOFT aluminum

liquidsoul_sm
12-13-2001, 09:30 PM
You shouldn't ever have to remove the valve to oil the marker.
First, remove your airsource. Now make sure all of the air is out of the gun. Put a few drops on the little whole in the ASA on the bottom of the gun. Now cock the marker and put some oil on the bolt. This should be done every game. A complete dissassembly is required every 2 to 3 games depending on how dirty the marker is. Take some oil and apply it to the valve the front bolt and rear bolt. Now rub it with your fingers. Now wipe the oil off with a cloth to remove the dirt. Now re oil with only a couple drops to each of the parts again. You marker is now oiled and ready to go. To oil the internals of the internals (inside of the valve etc) reattach your air source. Dry fire up side down a couple of times. Please do not fire with paint. Your marker is now lubed up and ready to go.

bf1o9
12-14-2001, 02:45 PM
Is it really necessary to take apart your gun to oil it?
If so don't you have to lower the velocity to take it apart? How do I make sure I get it back at the right velocity when I reassemble it...I don't have a chrono.

JiZZMoNKEY
12-15-2001, 06:50 PM
Ok first off, Im a Tippmann Certified Airsmith and im going to clear some of this stuff up for yall.

1. WD-40 = BAD. Never use WD-40 on a tippmann marker. This will eat the orings faster than you can say wet seal.TIPPMANN RECCOMENDS YOU USE HOPPES #9 GUN OIL. You can get this and a full hopes cleaning kit at 888paintball.com

2. Water = Rust. TIPPMANN INTERNALS ARE MAD OF STEEL. Steel+water doesn't mix. The worst thing you can do is what macmighty12 does.

3. Oil all moving parts. THIS DOES REQUIRE YOU TO TAKE OFF THE LEFT HALF OF THE MARKER. You can't oil it properly if you don't. When you get the left half off, oil the linkage arm, rear bolt, front bolt,and all o-rings. (Tippman recommends using a white lithium grease on the orings for a better seal and longer o-ring life. this comes in the HOPPES cleaning kit or you can try and find some at your local hardware store.)CAUTION: REMOVE AIR SOURCE BEFORE ANY CLEANING, OILING, OR MAINTENANCE

Take care of your gun and it will take care of you on the field.A Drop A Day Keeps The Airsmith Away

If you have any other questions, E-mail me at SoNiCIMPLUSE@aol.com
or contact TIPPMANN PNEUMATICS, INC

macmighty12
12-16-2001, 01:20 PM
my local field owner told me to do the water thing and i dont want to strip my damn reciever again