Common Problems...

[Rb_Empire_530]

Hi i thinking about getting a vision IMpUlSe and was wondering whats the most common problem with the IMP?

THNKs

rb

[IwAnNaShOoTyOu]

fsdo and bolt stick are the most common uless u have an lpr and some other ups

[Rb_Empire_530]

fsdo???

[nos911]

FSDO = First Shot Drop Off. It's where the first shot has a really low velocity. It can be easily fixed by doing the steps provided here (http://www.kamworld.net/paintball/ImpulseFAQ_Technical.html#T27) or here (http://www.kamworld.net/paintball/ImpulseFAQ_Technical.html#T26) depending on your setup.

[toothpastedog]

as long as you keep you impulse clean and properly lubed, there is only one problem you will ever run into: shot drop off at high rof's. the only was to fix this is to buy some sort of vff, tapeworm, or lpr kit. if you do not keep you impusle properly lubed and clean, you will encounter fsdo, inconsistancy, sluggishness, and just overal terrible performance. just take the 30 minutes to clean you impulse and you'll never have a problem. btw, buying a new delrin bolt makes cleaning and lubing a lot easier-because you won't need to lube the bolt

[Rb_Empire_530]

yea when i get my imp im getting the tapeworm and mag. trigger as my 1st mods..

[IwAnNaShOoTyOu]

also get a ndz bolt with the trigger and tapeworm

[ikey]

the three neccisary upgrades. tapeworm, ND bolt (preferable white so if you get the WAs baord u can use white bolt mode) and a new trigger. also, dont get a vision impy. get a regular impy and get WAS.....it is a billion times better.

[pyrosport]

this rat dosen't have a lpr but has vff. have you herd of running into problems with instaling a tapeworm on that gun along with an lpr then getting noid problems and shootdown? I was looking into getting a rat and this guy said to leave it with the vff and don't bother with the tapeworm. But, a very reliable friend said that he was numb and you must get an lpr with tapeworm.


any ideas???

~Trevor

[toothpastedog]

you cannot install a tapeworm with an lpr or with a vff/hfv. you will not get shoot down problems, under any circumstances, with an lpr kit or a vff/hfv, but there is the posibility to have a tiny bit of shoot down w/ just a tapeworm. a vff is much much much much better than a tapeworm. your "reliable" freind is also very "numb," considering you can't install a tapeworm with an lpr. i have owned impulse for more than three years, and have serviced/put together at least 80 myself and i personally think that a vff is the best out of an lpr, tapeworm, of vff. read the stickies to learn more about how impulses work-which seems something you need to do...

[toothpastedog]

Okay, what do spyders, angels, bushmaster, vikings, and intimidators have in common? Well, they all operate on the same basic design; a bolt over a hammer that moves forward when the trigger is pulled (from either the force of a ram and solenoid-i'll explain later-or a spring, like on spyder(clones) and opens a valve which sends air to the paintball and out that paintball goes.

A solenoid (http://pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=224024&perpage=20&pagenumber=1) is what begins the firing process on impulses, if you were an impulse the circuit board would be your brain and the solenoid your heart. When the gun fires, a signal is sent to the solenoid (it is actually called a solenoid valve, but I will just call it a solenoid) and the solenoid opens and sends a burst of air behind the ram which pushes the hammer/bolt (the bolt is connect to the hammer by a bolt pin) forward. Then the solenoid closes and sends a burst of air to the front of the ram sending it shooting backwards and thus moving the hammer/bolt back into "cocked" position. It is a little bit like how a 3-way on an Autococker, but a lot faster and more precise due to it being electronically controlled.

In an impulse, what happens when the trigger is pushed it this:
1) A micro switch is activated which sends an electrical pulse to the circuit board which in turn sends another signal to the solenoid to open/close it's valve.
2) The solenoid valve opens and redirects the air flow to an air cavity behind the ram and the air wants to expand and so it pushes the ram forward. The hammer (the ram is screwed into the ram, so when the ram moves forward, so does the hammer) is connected to the bolt by means of a bolt pin.
3) Then, at exactly the same time since the bolt and hammer are connected (when one moves 1mm, so does the other), as when the bolt is pushing a paintball past the guns’ detents the hammer hits the gun’s main valve, opening it which sends a burst of air out to the paintball threw the and into/out the barrel.
4) Then the solenoid (after a set amount of time, normally around 10 milliseconds depending on what the dwell (dwell=how long the hammer holds the main valve open=how much air is put behind the paintball=more or less fps) is set at, redirects the air flow to an air cavity in front of the ram and the hammer is pull back from the main valve (which closes due to a spring which forces it close) and also pulls the bolt back at the same time which lets another ball fall into the breach ready to be fired.

That is how the impulse works.

Here is what and how a tape worm works. Also I added some information about lprs:

Okay, here we go... a tapeworm is a solenoid restrictor. What it does is that it "restricts" are from being sucked away from the solenoid valve (which is what moves the bolt/hammer and makes the gun fire-the solenoid bolt can only do this with sufficient air pressure). What happens, is that when you pressurize your impulse, air fills up the valve cavity and the solenoid cavity (the valve and the solenoid valve are different-the valve puts air into the bolt and eventually get to a paintball, while the solenoid valve is basically, a separate electronic valve that controls the movement of the hammer/bolt/ram). When the impulse is fired, the valve opens and air flows out of it into the bolt and out behind a paintball. When the valve opens though, it sucks air away and out of the solenoid cavity. What the tapeworm does, for 20$, is it restricts air from leaving the solenoid valve cavity, and thus the valve can't suck air away from the solenoid which in turn uses that air to move the bolt/hammer which is how the gun is fired. Then since no air is being sucked away from the solenoid you can lower your operating pressure, which can help to prevent ball chopping a little as well as helping efficiency a bit to. The main advantage is that you can shoot faster strings of paint w/o any shoot down at all, and you can now, with a tapeworm or other form of solenoid restrictor, dry fire you impulse like you would a normal gun (which you cannot normally do).

A VFF (Voodoo Full Flow), a HFV (High Flow Vertical), and a HFA (High Flow Angled) don't do the same thing as a tapeworm, but for 30$ more, they supply the solenoid valve with a consistent uninterrupted supply of air that is at the same pressure as what the air is being regulated at the max-flo (or whatever inline reg you're using).

An LPR supplies the solenoid valve with an uninterrupted supply of air at a lower pressure than that at that gun's valve. Why that is so good (in other words, why is an lpr so good?)? Well, an LPR is the best because since it supplies the solenoid valve with air at a lower pressure than the air at the gun's valve, you can either:

1) Raise the operating pressure of the gun (turn the inline reg up) and turn the dwell down (the dwell is how long the valve is held open-the longer the valve is open, the more air gets to the paintball, the higher the velocity is) as well as turning the lpr’s output pressure down,

OR

2) You can keep the operating pressure low (120psi), turn the dwell up (keep the valve open longer), and turn the lpr's output pressure down. The problem with this though, is that the solenoid needs at least an input from the lpr (the lpr’s output in other words) of 65psi to force the ram/hammer to actually open the gun’s main valve to let enough air out to fire the paintball at 280-300fps (it needs no less than 65psi for three reasons: the valve’s face is very un-aero dynamic, so it makes it harder to open it with all that opposing pressure; there is about 120-200psi of air pressure holding the valve shut; and there is a strong spring holding the valve close). So for those three reason, this mention of having you inline reg’s input at 120psi doesn’t work as well because even with an input of 200psi, you lpr’s output can still reach 65psi, so with this you’re just wasting air.

The first list of things you can do results in less air being used and that means you get the more shots out of your tank (this is because less air is supplied to the paintball with the velocity staying at the same place that it would normally be because the pressure that is put behind the ball is higher than it normally would be and the dwell is turned down-valve is held open for a shorter amount of time-which results in less air being used) while also lowering the normal solenoid pressure which can result in less ball chopping (since the air pushing the ram/hammer/bolt comes from the solenoid at about 150psi normally, there is less chance of the bolt chopping a ball in half if the solenoid’s pressure is at 65psi because there is less force pushing the bolt forward).