Hey look my gun has dandruff

[spyder freek]

And i dont think shampoo is going to fix it!



But seriously, i played a full day for the first time with my b2k4 yesterday and while playing i noticed white flakes on the top of the gun, on and around the pull pin knob region. I didnt think much and at first i thought it was paint (white FPO). Anyway, i then get home and procede cleaning my gear. I had broken a ball on the bolt (cheap "rec sport paint") and i went to take out the bolt and it wouldent move.... so i then take my detents out and slide the bolt out through the front and look through the body......there is a fair amount of delren shreds in there and looking at the bolt delren chipped and shredded off. I looked to see what caused it and there is a burr formed where the cocking knob slit is on the interior of the gun un the back curve. Now on to the questions....


1)is this at all normal?
2)What may have caused it? solution?
3)would takeing some 1000grit to it very lightly be ok?.....i know what im doing when it comes to sanding crap like this ive done eye installs and other related top tube drilling (and de burring)


Input is welcome!

[cutomcocker1]

1. no
2. dull tooling, horrible quality control, and who knows what else...its a number of things that went wrong...
3. that should work, just make sure to blow it out really well before another bolt goes in...also, try not to take the hone out of that part of the tube...it can cause wear on your next bolt (slowly, but surely)

comments: thats what you get for not reuilding it as soon as you get it. trust no company to do it right in the factory.

[lucky7]

sanding it a bit should be fine, it might just be a slight factory defect.....


however, if this bur was caused by your cocking rod slamming into the back of the slot hard enough to bend it.....thats not good....

what do YOU think caused it?

[cutomcocker1]

Originally posted by lucky7
however, if this bur was caused by your cocking rod slamming into the back of the slot hard enough to bend it.....thats not good....

what do YOU think caused it?

he would have known if it was hitting the bolt pin...he would have had to crank on the pressure to get the velocity out of it. and still you would get some wierd shots out of it probably...

[lucky7]

Originally posted by cutomcocker1


he would have known if it was hitting the bolt pin...he would have had to crank on the pressure to get the velocity out of it. and still you would get some wierd shots out of it probably...


he said the bur is in the back.....not in the front....


and you dont' need to go getting a new bolt, that one will be fine...

[cutomcocker1]

Originally posted by lucky7



he said the bur is in the back.....not in the front....


and you dont' need to go getting a new bolt, that one will be fine...

o...sorry...didn't see that...well, that makes quality control look even ****ier...

[yoda101]

1), 2) and 3) Call ICD, dont do something that will void your warantee. Talk to a tech that has a moment and see what they suggest. They can tell you whats best to do and what not. When it comes to something like this talk with the company directly. They may tell you what you should do and who knows your idea may be best. Point is get the information straight from the horses mouth, safest and best way to do it.


Oh and actually CALL, dont email them. They are sometimes slow email wise and its easier to explain and ask questions over the phone rather then going back via mail.

[spyder freek]

I was thinking that Yoda.....But The thing was it wasnt like this when i got it....there was no burr, not the slightest. I was thinking its my lpr being to high, but i never turned it up from the factory setting i tryed turning it down because my fps was Uber fast 300+ and i needed 260. I didnt think it had to do with my lpr seeing as if it goes a 1/8 or so of a turn lower it wont cock back all the way only about half.

And i wanted a new bolt anyways...i have BB (pds too tho so the effects arnt to to bad.


What exactly makes the warenty not valid anymore?

the only up i have is a barrel....


Originally posted by lucky7
sanding it a bit should be fine, it might just be a slight factory defect.....


however, if this bur was caused by your cocking rod slamming into the back of the slot hard enough to bend it.....thats not good....

what do YOU think caused it?


that did seem logical....i mean do you have a better way it could have happened?

[spyder freek]

Just got off the phone with a tech and he said because it is so new and it has allready developed a problem there could be something even more wrong than just a burr. He said a defective ram, valve regulators....anything like that.


So guys...it looks as if im sending it in....:bawling: Ill miss her!!! :bawling: he said it will take 2 weeks turnaround.


Now how do i go about sending it in? tips? what to do and not to do?

:cry:

[Scherdy]

I had the same thing happen to me (was stock b2k4 red/black fade). The pin was hitting the back of the slot on every shot and caused the exact same dandruff and had to remove my bolt from the front as well.

I called ICD and was told to take the burr off with a fine grit or very fine file (which frightened me a bit that I should do that to a brand new marker). BUT, once I was de-burred, and restored my bolt back to it's original shape...some ICD-ers had a great fix by putting in the ram bumper so the ram doesn't go ALL the way back, and since the pin sits in the slot at the front of the ram, problem fixed! Also lines up the balls in the stack preventing any rollback (if you look up ram bumper mod, I think you'll find it on PBN or here possibly).

Yeah, i was pretty miffed too that my brand new marker was slowly maiming itself, but I guess I got to know my marker a lot better trying to figure out how to fix it.

[lotus_esprit5]

yep, sounds like the bolt pin was hitting the back of the bolt pin slot. This can be caused By:
-slot being cut too short
-ram returning too far

If you sand down the burr and install a ram bumper, that will fix the problem.

However, I suggest trying to get ICD to replace the bolt and mabye the body. this is their problem and they should be responsible for fixing it.

[Psycho_warden]

Back to one of your other questions, how to send it in. If you have the original box with the styrofome still and stuff, use that first. Then if you have any shipping popcorn put in a box full of that, if you dont have any popcorn, use newspaper or plastic grocery bags. I had to send in my E-force and thats how they told me to send it in.

[On3sh0t]

just got my b2k4 back from ICD and it only took them 13 days (sent it in 12/8 and they shipped it out 12/21) and thats pretty fast. i did the same thing that psycho_warden said, put it in the original box with the soft foam thing. Tape a note somewhere inside the original box with ur name, return address, wats wrong with the gun and be sure to include details, phone number/contact info, and it will be fairly quick. if u call them after its done (just call after 10-12 days) u can ask them for a tracking number by telling them the name that u wrote on the note.

[jebby]

my gun also had the bolt shaved a bit when i first got it, and i still have to take the bolt out of the front. This is because at the back of the slot there is actually some metal slightly sticking down because of a poor cut. Though it doesn't seem to affect the performance*.


*though my gun isn't performing at all right now. It's at ICD getting fixed for some other wierd problems :(

[yoda101]

oneshot hit it right on the head. ICD is very good about replacing things that go wrong. As it is still under warantee there is no point screwing it up and then having to pay for it later. Just remember the quicker you send it in the quicker you get it back :)

When I was saying dont void your warantee, I was referring to not cracking it open to experiment to see what was wrong. If you are unsure and unfamiliar then just send it in and let ICD take a look. Might as well have the certified pro's take a look instead of listening to us in this case.

[ShootPaint]

Originally posted by cutomcocker1


o...sorry...didn't see that...well, that makes quality control look even ****ier...

Actually this isnt a quality control issue this is a LPR issue, more than likely a complete reg setup issue.

What has happened is the LPR is running at a higher pressure than the marker was designed to run at. In turn the bolt pin is hitting the back of the bolt pin slot and mushrooming it.

To correct the issue you are going to have to debur the top tube. When you get the burr out you will then need to readjust your regs.

Ok now for the B2K4 you need to try setting your regs as follows.

Turn both the HPR and LPR adjustment screws out until you cant feel any tension on the adjustment screws.

Next gas the marker up. You shouldnt see any pressure showing on the HPR gauge. Observer it for a few minutes and make sure that the HPR isnt creeping. If the HPR doesnt creep then we will want to begin with the adjustment process.

Turn the HPR adjsutment screw in until the marker reads 250psi. Again let the HPR set for a minute or so and make sure that the reg doesnt creep. (If the reg creeps it will cause the LPR pressure to rise without any adjustment being made to it and in turn could cause the problem you are seeing with the bolt pin slot) If the reg doesnt creep we now need to adjust the LPR.

At this point your bolt should be forward almost like the marker is in the firing position. Turn the LPR adjustment in until you get the bolt to complete clear the feed tube. Once the bolt clears the feed tube turn your LPR adjustment in a half turn more.

Now goto a chrono and make fine adjustments to the HPR to dial in your FPS.

Finally cycle the marker several times and take note of when the bolt pin is when the marker is recocked. Listen to the cycling of the marker and make sure when it recocks you dont hear a thumping sound. If you this would indicate the LPR is still to high and the bolt pin is still hitting the back of Bolt pin slot. At this point you can try lowering the LPR a little. If you cant get the LPR low enough and style have the marker cycle I would contact ICD and see how they want to handle your issue.

Hope this helps.

[spyder freek]

The tech said this:

Because the marker is so new, you could send it in to be fixed and it will be covered under warenty. To fix the burr he said VERY fine grit sand paper or a file. He said it could be caused by the Regs, the ram, or the battery....Battery....ok?.....It was definatly the pin hitting the back of the slit.


Jerrby, it sounds to me like you have the same problem...."This is because at the back of the slot there is actually some metal slightly sticking down because of a poor cut" I doubt it was from a poor cut, because mine wasn't like it originaly. onnly after 1500 cycles or so.


As for Shootpaint-I suspected it had something to do with the LPR....my HPR is set to 220psi and after sitting 1 hour with the tank in it didnt rise a bit. I think its more of an LPR problem. I was thinking that it might be a good idea to pick up a ram guage...and possibly a whole new LPR w/ guage.

Im lead to beleive this because at the field it seemed to be extra loud, and a little more vibration. when i got home it was much more quiet and less kick. (but the field i play at is indoor....so idk acustics are much different)


Now this "ram bumber mod".......im interested any body got a link....(PBN is blocked on my computer)



And while i go to look at it, Where should the bolt pin be in relation to the back when gassed up?

[yoda101]

Originally posted by spyder freek
The tech said this:

Because the marker is so new, you could send it in to be fixed and it will be covered under warenty. To fix the burr he said VERY fine grit sand paper or a file. He said it could be caused by the Regs, the ram, or the battery....Battery....ok?.....It was definatly the pin hitting the back of the slit.


I know it sux not having your marker for awhile, as i am waiting for my baby to come back still 80% done though, but sending it in is your best course of action. It is still covered under warantee and who knows what else might be wrong. It will get a complete work through and everything will be perfect when it gets back to you again.

[spyder freek]

Idk, im still debateing.....im leaning twards sending it out.....i can order a new valve and ram guage while its out i guess.


Should i put any label on the outside of the box when i send it?....like what it is in for....or what it needs something like "b2k service".....or anything like that?

[yoda101]

Originally posted by spyder freek
Idk, im still debateing.....im leaning twards sending it out.....i can order a new valve and ram guage while its out i guess.


Should i put any label on the outside of the box when i send it?....like what it is in for....or what it needs something like "b2k service".....or anything like that?

the more notation the better i would think. Repairs would prob be the easiest way, then including a letter of the problem and who you have talked to etc..

[spyder freek]

ok thanks.....


But befor i send it off.....where can i find this ram buffer mod....i would like to read more about it.

[ShootPaint]

To preform a ram bumper mod you will need to drill and tap the ram cap for a allen bolt. Then you simply glue a rubber tip on it. This allows you to adjust the back travel of the bolt by screwing the bolt in or out.

That is the basics of the ram bumper mod.

[spyder freek]

That sounds to be that would definatly void warenty....right...?



http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=470776&perpage=21&highlight=\%20adjustable%20\%20ram&pagenumber=2

i found this after an hour od searching.....jeez.....

seems safer, and you can get smaller in width so its a little adjustable. plus no modding of parts just adding!

[spyder freek]

I did the mod with a rubber washer i had laying around. I also deburred it myself fith my pinky and some triple 0 steel wool. Took a while but it Really smooth.


The gun cycles fine and the pin is unable to move 100% of the way back so no more slamming.


Also....i striped down the gun so i wouldent risk getting steel wool stringgys in the regs or ram or anything and i wound out my valve screw had wiggled out and my valve was barelyopen to airflow to the bolt.....which could explain my hard time hitting the speed limit on the chrono.


I would like to thank you guys for the help on this!

I :love: u guys!......in that non sexual/homosexual way!