CP Triggers

[Team Chokepoint]

What do you guys think of the CP roller triggers for Impulses? I've tried one on a Matrix and it was pure sex.

Apparently they come with magnet kits now, but I asked actionvillage and Compulsive and neither one sold their triggers with the kit, so I had to buy direct from CP :(, I hope it was worth it because I've never tried it with the magno kit.

Yes I have already ordered one, but you guys can post here just for the hell of it, maybe it will help someone else.


EDIT: I just realized that it doesn't look like you can adjust the actuation point. Start thinking about ways to do this in case I don't like it how it is...

[ikey]

i dont get it, why wont CP put munltiple set screws on thier triggers. they would be the bomb if they did.

[speedy2k4]

i have a cp on my pulse, it has an actuation screw, it is a sweet trigger because it has a screw retained bearing, that allows you to tighten it until you have absolutely no side play, on the stock trigger frame :)

[Kurama]

I've used a CP trigger on a dm4. Not sure if it was a roller, but it definately was nice. Thanks for telling me they come with magnetic kits now, I may have to pick one up ;)

Anyways, they're very smooth and have a very adjustable side-to-side play due to the ball bearing. They're definately worth it.

[toothpastedog]

Originally posted by ikey
i dont get it, why wont CP put munltiple set screws on thier triggers. they would be the bomb if they did.

cp triggers, or the magnetic rollers at least, don't have micro switch activation screws because the would go through part of the roller. i haven't seen any with them, but you never know. you can still get the trigger pull with them very short, but imo, they arn't as nice as nd or eclipse blades.

[speedy2k4]

omg i am and idiot, they don't have actuation screws. i thought mine did, i forgot i was thinkin the pull length screw, forgot the switch is on the top. what was i thinkin? :crazy:

or maybe that is the problem, i wasn't thinking! :P

but yeah, you can still get as short a pull as anything. i used to think the ndz pro-mag was the best, but after using my cp, i think i changed my mind, mostly because of the side play elimination.

[Team Chokepoint]

Just got my trigger in the mail! I dare say it rips face.

The lack of an adjustable actuation point is definately a flaw. With my W.A.S. board, it doesn't even contact the switch at all. What I did was I put about 7 thin layered strips of masking tape over the actuation point. I don't like the idea of paint getting under the tape and causing it to loose grip and slip around... but at the moment the thing definately owns my NDZ trigger. Anybody have any more reliable suggestions? I thought about altering the switch...but the I realized I would break it. lol

Another thing is the post travel set screw. I have to back it out so far that it sticking out of the trigger's face by about half a centimeter. Annoying, but doesn't really effect anything.

[toothpastedog]

Just sand down the adjustment screw if you want it to not stick out. you can bend the lever on the micro swith (not the part that touches the micro switch-but this is very risky and unless you know 100% what you are doing, you will probably end up ruinning your switch and having to replace it.

[Team Chokepoint]

Oh I know I could easily fix the set screw problem, but it seems like a poor design. When flush with the face of the trigger, there is almost no range of motion for the trigger.

My friend works in a machine shop and is putting in an actuation point set screw, but its a fairly thin piece so don't try this at home. The layers of tape didn't work to well, I can already feel it compressing. My pull length gets longer and longer as I walk it.

[toothpastedog]

Originally posted by Team Chokepoint
Oh I know I could easily fix the set screw problem, but it seems like a poor design. When flush with the face of the trigger, there is almost no range of motion for the trigger.

My friend works in a machine shop and is putting in an actuation point set screw, but its a fairly thin piece so don't try this at home. The layers of tape didn't work to well, I can already feel it compressing. My pull length gets longer and longer as I walk it.

good luck and nice work!

[speedy2k4]

i have a w.a.s. board and cp, and it contacts fine, try adjusting the other screws, and make sure your bearing is in the front pin hole.

[Team Chokepoint]

I suppose I could back out the stop screw all the way, but that would be a really long pull. Then I could set the magnet to repel, and use a set screw as a way to adjust the pre-travel...but I can't get the bottom set screw (beneath where a return spring would go) out of my frame.

Is there any way I could mod my switch without bending anything? Like lowering the whole mechanism some how?

[speedy2k4]

melt away the solder, wick it up with soldering braid, push the switch in but not all the way, resolder the connection. i did it on a shocker board before.

[toothpastedog]

Originally posted by speedy2k4
melt away the solder, wick it up with soldering braid, push the switch in but not all the way, resolder the connection. i did it on a shocker board before.

yeh, it would work, but again, make sure you know 100% what you're doing, or you get to buy, at least, a new micro switch, if not a new board.

[miniature-art]

All you have to do is cut a thin strip of plastic sheet, and glue it to the flat area on the CP roller trigger that makes contact with the microswitch.

The plastic comes from clear bubble packages, glued with superglue. It's alot more durable than tape. You can laminate a second or third sheet on top of each other until you have the desired trigger pull length.

BOBBY

[speedy2k4]

Originally posted by toothpastedog


yeh, it would work, but again, make sure you know 100% what you're doing, or you get to buy, at least, a new micro switch, if not a new board.
i never recommended it, i would never do it a second time, i just said it was possible. and i actually did it because in addition to wanting the switch out further, my old switch broke before i started the operation.

[toothpastedog]

Originally posted by speedy2k4

i never recommended it, i would never do it a second time, i just said it was possible. and i actually did it because in addition to wanting the switch out further, my old switch broke before i started the operation.

i know, i just like to list all the warning. for instance, i always warn people to stay out of my mom's room for "undisclosed" reasons ;) :yuck:

[Team Chokepoint]

Yeah, the soldering idea is way over my head :crazy:

I'll just deal with the tape for now and have my friend make me an adjustable actuation point.

[speedy2k4]

Originally posted by toothpastedog


i know, i just like to list all the warning. for instance, i always warn people to stay out of my mom's room for "undisclosed" reasons ;) :yuck:
was that necessary?

and yeah i guess having your own company and whatnot, you are getting used to the disclaimer janx :laugh:

[toothpastedog]

Originally posted by speedy2k4

you are getting used to the disclaimer janx :laugh:

OMFG, i hate damn disclaimers, but after having to write a patent ap, i'm using them without even noticing it... in the patent ap, they were like every four words...

Originally posted by toothpastedog


cp triggers, or the magnetic rollers at least, don't have micro switch activation screws because the would go through part of the roller. i haven't seen any with them, but you never know.

Originally posted by speedy2k4
omg i am and idiot

come on speedy, you should have realized by now that my only reason for joining pbr is to make you look as dumb as possibe ;)

[speedy2k4]

Originally posted by toothpastedog
come on speedy, you should have realized by now that my only reason for joining pbr is to make you look as dumb as possibe ;)
well you are pretty darn good at it.

to be on topic, i stumbled across a sweet spot on the cp trigger tonight. db5 on the w.a.s. board and it was still like a 3 shot ramp. so i would say you can make the cp pull short enough.

[Team Chokepoint]

Well it doesn't hit mine without modification, period.

I'm looking at my tigger and it definately looks like there's enough room to drill a hole for a set screw without hitting the roller bearing...I think the reason that one isn't included is the fact that that part of the trigger is so thin.

[jokerdude1333]

on db2 i can get mine to go into full auto, i can raize it up to around 6 or and it still goes into full auto. i figured that out when i was messing with my trigger making the point where it hitsthe microswitch immediate, and then almost no travel after that.

[speedy2k4]

Originally posted by jokerdude1333
on db2 i can get mine to go into full auto, i can raize it up to around 6 or and it still goes into full auto. i figured that out when i was messing with my trigger making the point where it hitsthe microswitch immediate, and then almost no travel after that.
i don't have enough kick to get it into full auto. :( :)

and tc, make sure you don't drill too wide, because it is skinny and you don't want to cut the back half of your trigger off trying to drill the hole.

[Team Chokepoint]

I'm not that mechanically impaired :P

Fortunately, I'm not doing it, my friend works in a machine shop and will do it for me. The set screw will be be slightly wider than the one used to attach the eye cover so I'm not worried about ruining the trigger.

[speedy2k4]

well i won't do it, and there are very few mods i won't do. but if you have it professionally done, it should work.

[agentdaffy007]

I just bend the microswitch to get the desired pull. I don't recommend doing this if you do not have patience. The microswitch is hard to bend and if you do bend it too much, it will break. Be careful.