Blacking out your eye with a sharpie

[lewdogg21]

I apologize for not having unlimited time to search every thread for this (You college boys have more free time in a day than I do in a week :) ) however I want to know from the knowledgeable members about what purpose this serves, how to do it, potential drawbacks, etc.


The last thing I want to do is go off half cocked and darken my eye and screw it up.

My setup:

Was board
I-frame version 3
NDZ (parts) - valve, lpr, hammer assembly w/ solid stainless hammer ( no holes), stubby equalizer bolt (white), detents

I believe that is all the relevant parts for the question. Once I assembly her I will provide pictures. I am literally building this thing from the ground up with all parts of my choosing.

[ase]

the purpose of blacking out the eye hole is that if light gets inside the breech, the metal will reflect the light and the eye will sense it, possibly resulting in chops. this isnt a HUGE importance unless you have a clear hopper, but i still recommend doing it.
to do it, just stick a sharpie in the area you hopefully already filed out and color it in.
ya make sure you dont get any sharpie on the eye itself, that would be bad

[lewdogg21]

The WAS Equalizer manual also says this....
The BIP Delay™ is a feature that allows you to adjust for the differences in the eye sensor, its installation, and the loader being used. If the sensor is installed correctly, and base of the sensor is blacked out (using a ‘sharpie’ or similar), the eye system will require very little BIP Delay™ when using a fast loader.

Is this a supplemental item? I don't recall seeing a thread on this before, only the eye hole itself being blacked out threads

[toothpastedog]

Just do this-sorry for kinda beating around the bush and telling you what to do ;):

Once you have filled out the eye slot in the impulse, get a sharpy, and color any visable raw aluminum in.

Again, what this does is help the eye system recognize a paintball. When there is raw aluminum showing, is very reflective. If you are shooting with any reflective system and you have any raw aluminum showing in the breach/contact area, you will have misregisters. This means the eye could think there is a ball in the breach, because it's signal is reflecting off the raw aluminum.

Just get down wih da sharp-e :rolleyes:

[ase]

and you shouldnt ever need to adjust BIP delay, it wont matter really. what color and type of loader are you using?

[lewdogg21]

TPD, my previous post about BIP delay was b/c my friend blakced out the lower portion of the eye as well b/c that was his interpretation of the directions in the was manual. I'm wondering if he pulled a "gomer" (his norm) and hurriedly blacked in his eye and messed up his gun a bit.

I'm clear on what to do, just wondering if what WAS says about BIP is helpfull or hurtfull.

[toothpastedog]

Oh, wow, my bad :D, well, what WAS says about BIP is correct, but i've never heard of anyone having to back out their eye. Just color the raw aluminum with sharpy, set the board however you desire (basically set it as fast as tournies you play allow or how fast your hopper will let you shoot) and go play.

[lewdogg21]

Ah the reason I am concerned about this is that I use a clear shelled Halo B.

[toothpastedog]

Should be fine, but you might want to put some electrical tape around the halo's neck, or paint it black with a sharpy or something. Again though, i have a customer who i just set up with an impulse, and i tested his gun, which ran off WAS, with a clear halo B, and it shot perfectly.

[speedy2k4]

also, black nail polish works instead of a sharpy. easier to get in ther :nod:

[ase]

if you put your BIP down, wont that mean shooting faster? would it be noticeably faster? could i put mine down without haveing any problems?

[jokerdude1333]

BIP delay is where the eye sences the ball and then it waits however many MS you put it at. since the Eye isnt all the way at the bottom of the breach there has to be a delay or you would maybe chop. On the WAS forums, jim said not to put the BIP delay setting lower than 3, which is what i have mine at and never had problems, but if you have a revi or Egg it should be a little higher, and if you have a reloader B, or halo then 3-5 should be fine.

[ikey]

if you have a gravity fed hopper-anything buty a true force fed hopper (this mneas anything but halos, empire b, warp feed, or q laoder), DO NOT TOUCH THE BIP. this could turn your gun literally into a blender. ive seen it been done. if you have a halo i would recommend no lower than 5 just to be on the safe side. i have read that it can upp your rof by about 5 bps, but then again, when the rof capp is already about 20, what does the extra 5 matter? so no, unless you are a machine or you can pull more than about 25 bps, then you wont notice anything. if your freind blacked out his eye, well i hope it still works. if it doesnt he will need to call WAS and get a new eye baord (just the part with the eye, not the entire baord). yeah just black out the aluminum like everybody said. oh and please take your eye out so you dont get sharpie on it.

[DasuperTech]

With a clear hopper or a EGG 2 you will experience skips or possible chops with a reflective eye. Dependent on lighting conditions. Some tourneys nowadays dont allow clear hoppers anyway. If you will paint bottom of the hoppers feedtube it should really cut down on the amount of IR the sensor will see. This area of your hopper doesn;t see any abuse as well in most cases. So it should stay put for awahile.

[agentdaffy007]

Any benefits in coloring with a Sharpie when you have the stock Vision eye? :confused:

[ikey]

no because the vision eye can be used without sanding. because of no sanding, no sharpiing. if you did sand, then yeah you should sharpie. this aplys to all reflective eyes, so unless you have predator or morlock with beam breaks, and you installed your own eye, you probably need to sharpie.