3 questions

[Comon-HIT_ME]

well i just got a new impy and i have a few questions first off i have a tapeworm and it is installed right but i still have the first shot drop off i was wondering what i can do. Also on my vertical adapter this brass fitting is leaking the pressure is at 180 normal and i tried to take it out but if feels likes it going to strip with a cresent wrench and fitted. another question is im getting a new trigger and i wanted to know what kind of trigger and how much it will cost.....thanks

[toothpastedog]

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Why does everyone think fsdo can be cured by a tapeworm? A tapeworm doesn't effect fsdo at all!!!

I'm not getting mad at you, just at people who spread that rumor...

Here is the low down on tapeworms:

Okay, what do spyders, angels, bushmaster, vikings, and intimidators have in common? Well, they all operate on the same basic design; a bolt over a hammer that moves forward when the trigger is pulled (from either the force of a ram and solenoid-i'll explain later-or a spring, like on spyder(clones) and opens a valve which sends air to the paintball and out that paintball goes.

A solenoid is what begins the firing process on impulses, if you were an impulse the circuit board would be your brain and the solenoid your heart. When the gun fires, a signal is sent to the solenoid (it is actually called a solenoid valve, but I will just call it a solenoid) and the solenoid opens and sends a burst of air behind the ram which pushes the hammer/bolt (the bolt is connect to the hammer by a bolt pin) forward. Then the solenoid closes and sends a burst of air to the front of the ram sending it shooting backwards and thus moving the hammer/bolt back into "cocked" position. It is a little bit like how a 3-way on an Autococker, but a lot faster and more precise due to it being electronically controlled.

In an impulse, what happens when the trigger is pushed it this:
1) A micro switch is activated which sends an electrical pulse to the circuit board which in turn sends another signal to the solenoid to open/close it's valve.
2) The solenoid valve opens and redirects the air flow to an air cavity behind the ram and the air wants to expand and so it pushes the ram forward. The hammer (the ram is screwed into the ram, so when the ram moves forward, so does the hammer) is connected to the bolt by means of a bolt pin.
3) Then, at exactly the same time since the bolt and hammer are connected (when one moves 1mm, so does the other), as when the bolt is pushing a paintball past the guns’ detents the hammer hits the gun’s main valve, opening it which sends a burst of air out to the paintball threw the and into/out the barrel.
4) Then the solenoid (after a set amount of time, normally around 10 milliseconds depending on what the dwell (dwell=how long the hammer holds the main valve open=how much air is put behind the paintball=more or less fps) is set at, redirects the air flow to an air cavity in front of the ram and the hammer is pull back from the main valve (which closes due to a spring which forces it close) and also pulls the bolt back at the same time which lets another ball fall into the breach ready to be fired.

That is how the impulse works.

Here is what and how a tape worm works. Also I added some information about lprs:

Okay, here we go... a tapeworm is a solenoid restrictor. What it does is that it "restricts" are from being sucked away from the solenoid valve (which is what moves the bolt/hammer and makes the gun fire-the solenoid bolt can only do this with sufficient air pressure). What happens, is that when you pressurize your impulse, air fills up the valve cavity and the solenoid cavity (the valve and the solenoid valve are different-the valve puts air into the bolt and eventually get to a paintball, while the solenoid valve is basically, a separate electronic valve that controls the movement of the hammer/bolt/ram). When the impulse is fired, the valve opens and air flows out of it into the bolt and out behind a paintball. When the valve opens though, it sucks air away and out of the solenoid cavity. What the tapeworm does, for 20$, is it restricts air from leaving the solenoid valve cavity, and thus the valve can't suck air away from the solenoid which in turn uses that air to move the bolt/hammer which is how the gun is fired. Then since no air is being sucked away from the solenoid you can lower your operating pressure, which can help to prevent ball chopping a little as well as helping efficiency a bit to. The main advantage is that you can shoot faster strings of paint w/o any shoot down at all, and you can now, with a tapeworm or other form of solenoid restrictor, dry fire you impulse like you would a normal gun (which you cannot normally do).

A VFF (Voodoo Full Flow), a HFV (High Flow Vertical), and a HFA (High Flow Angled) don't do the same thing as a tapeworm, but for 30$ more, they supply the solenoid valve with a consistent uninterrupted supply of air that is at the same pressure as what the air is being regulated at the max-flo (or whatever inline reg you're using).

An LPR supplies the solenoid valve with an uninterrupted supply of air at a lower pressure than that at that gun's valve. Why that is so good (in other words, why is an lpr so good?)? Well, an LPR is the best because since it supplies the solenoid valve with air at a lower pressure than the air at the gun's valve, you can:
1-Use a Higher Input Pressure
2-Use a Lower Solenoid Pressure
3-Use a Lower Dwell
The Higher input pressure is desirable because it will let you decrease your dwell, (letting less air at a higher pressure escape when you fire the gun) which will increase your efficiency.

okay, to cure fsdo, all you need to do, is at the very least, take out your hammer assembly, take the end cap off, clean out all the dow from behind the hammer, clean the dow off the ram, put the ram cap back on, and put a super think coat of dow on the ram's extended shaft.

about your prv leaking: you can heat up the prv with a lighter, but make sure to take the guage off first. you will probably end up just buying a new prv. if you don't mind completely destroying your current one, and want to get it off easy, boil some watter, and drop the whole VA (with out the guage or VA o-ring on it) into the water for about 5 minutes, then take it out, and unscrew the prv.

for the trigger, look at the stickies,

http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=2823222/

http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=235833/

http://www.kamworld.net/paintball/ImpulseFAQ.html

www.pbreview.com

(use the reviews).

Good luck!