Breaking 1st ball

[NDzImpy]

This I found is actually caused by your hopper. The Halo B is a good fast hopper, with only one draw back. When you turn your halo on and there are no balls in your stack tube(feed neck), the first ball is slammed into the breech so fast, that 7 out of ten times you put those first balls through your feed neck from your Halo B, the first ball smashes into the breech so hard it brakes. Three things you can do to fix it;
1). I think you can turn your hopper feed rate down.
2). Fill your stack tube with paint before the hopper is turned on
3). Buy an EVlution. I had a halo b, but I kept getting that first ball brake in the feed tube when the balls where slamed into the breech.
It's hard for me to tell the difference in feed rate between the Eg and the Halo, but my egg has not broke one ball yet. And no-one has been able to shot my hopper yet. I don't know why that would "B".


I make one of a kind clear EV shells, soon I'm going to post pics and prices. Then you can have a EVlution shell that knowone on the planet would have. I even do team colors.

dragons_path@hotmail.com for inquries on EVlution shells.

[propaintist]

Great info!

Possible a sticky? :D

[DeAtH^MaTrIx]

I use a Halo B and that has never happened to me.

[toothpastedog]

depends on the paint you use. while this couple possably be a good sticky, if it was going to be one, it would belong in the hopper's forum.

[Team Chokepoint]

Interesting, although most of my team uses Halos and we never have this problem.

A) Too much extra effort.
B) Sure, that works. Makes that Rip Drive pull its weight some more.
C) Bad idea, Eggs may feed faster than you can shoot, but they are still less consistent/balanced than Halos.

[ikey]

never ever had this problem with any paint. soulution, spend 10 bucks more and get rip drive so you can maually put balls in the feed tube before you turn it on.

[NDzImpy]

I have only come across a few peeps with problem. I think It might be the lenght of the stack tube, being the longer distance to get to the breech could cause brittle paint to break when it is slammed in, the short Halo feed necks might fix this problem.

This is a reply thread, to a thread that was posted and then closed.

IKEY-

I beleive you're correct about the RIP drive. You can turn you paddles to preload paint before you turn your hopper on. I never had the RIP drive. I think they may have been my reason for ging to an EVlution. Didn't even know of the RIP drive before I got my EV.

-I thought about that balance issue that ChokePoint mentioned. At first I thought that, "it looked like it was not properly balanced". My friend Neil got ahold of an EV for his Imp. When I put his marker in my hand, the balance was like a line that went across my wrist, from hopper to tank. The marker no longer felt wobbley. All the weight went from my hand to my should, just were I always wanted it.

having less wieght on the front of the marker makes it easier for me to aim.

"WORD"

[CoolT]

Never had this happen to me but I've heard of it happening before. I assume you're correct that it's the long feed neck. Old software could have contributed to the problem.

Sorry for closing your original thread, this a pretty rare problem.

A Rip Drive would solve the issue. You could also put a few balls in and turn on the loader as you hold the drive cone.

[ikey]

yeah and at 10 bucks more why not get rip drive. aslo, yeah i probably would not notice this problem because i have a no rise. in fact these days nobody has a big feed neck really. so thats why ive never heard of it.

[NDzImpy]

WERD

[Team Chokepoint]

I vaguely remember reading about this a year or so ago...Odyssey added a bit of code to their Halos that made the drive cone spin a little bit slower when the loader is first turned on to prevent balls from breaking when they're first shoved down the feed tube.

[CoolT]

Yeah that's what I was thinking. I have a Z board and old board (TE I think) and the old board is way better. I've never had a problem with it and I went back to it after the Z code jam detection drove me crazy. I'd like to get a Reloader board so I don't have to worry about dirty eyes but I don't feel like spending $50 on it.

[ikey]

whats so bad about Z code, doesnt it save your hopper? and cant all of these problems be fixed by 10 bucks more for rip drive? also doesnt an empire spin when your turn it on cause it doesnt have eyes so in there is a ball in the breech and you turn it on it busts a ball? thats what some of the refs at my local feild said. they said it happened to tehm, so tehy all shoot halos. (this only happens with a ball in the breech they said)

[Team Chokepoint]

I <3 Reloader Bs.

I've never had a problem with that, even if I have brittle paint and my feed tube is already stacked.

[CoolT]

Originally posted by ikey
whats so bad about Z code, doesnt it save your hopper? and cant all of these problems be fixed by 10 bucks more for rip drive?

The Z Code just thinks it jams a lot when there's no problem at all. It has nothing to do with the RIP drive, the jam detection just has awful logic. When it thinks there's a jam, it blinks red/green and you have to turn your loader off then back on. It sucks when it happens mid-game, multiple times. :mad:

I was using non-dark paint the other day and it was still happening. The eyes probably just need cleaning but when I had my old board I rarely had to take apart the loader. I'd rather not have to clean it more often just because of the crappy jam detection.

I put the old board back in and it should work much better next game. I'll probably buy an aftermarket board for my Halo sometime within the next few months.

[Sniper15]

I've never had any problems like that with my Reloader B...

[CoolT]

That's because it doesn't have eyes or jam detection.