View Full Version : Swolen bolt
xkookooman
08-12-2005, 05:28 PM
I have swolen bolt. I got advice that i should sand it down. should i?
schoolsukz08
08-12-2005, 06:15 PM
No, just take it out of your gun, and lay it on a paper towel, they usually go down after sitting out.
kb9wgx
08-12-2005, 08:21 PM
They swell because they absorb some moisture from the air. Put it in the freezer for a day. It will leach the the water out of it. Freeze dried!
xkookooman
08-12-2005, 09:49 PM
Ok, well i stuck it in the freezer. Will it actually work? how long do i keep it in there? Well, atleast i know itll go down. I remember hearing that they stay that way once swolen.
kb9wgx
08-12-2005, 11:12 PM
I would leave it a day. It way swell again. If it keeps doing it, you can always sand it. Niether of my TigerSharks have done this, but I have talked to a few who's have.
DarkeWolf
08-13-2005, 05:47 PM
Originally posted by xkookooman
Ok, well i stuck it in the freezer. Will it actually work? how long do i keep it in there? Well, atleast i know itll go down. I remember hearing that they stay that way once swolen.
it depends on the quality of the delrin that was used. there IS some really cheap delrin that Will stay swollen once it's been expanded. But in most cases, it will contract back up again after it's dried out.
It also depends on what has caused the pores on the delrin to open up. Like kb9 was saying, cold will make those pores contract and close back up.
xkookooman
08-13-2005, 06:50 PM
This is the bolt (http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/2917) I have for my gun.
kb9wgx
08-13-2005, 07:28 PM
I recently got one of those, and haven't actually played with it. Fits like a dream though. I also have had the long rear cocking version for spyders, and never had trouble with it.
half-step
08-13-2005, 07:47 PM
We have 4 Tiger Sharks and all of them have swelled up. We did the freezer thing, but it was only temporary. We had to chuck them up in a lathe and sand them down. Not only once, but about 3 times. It seems once they start swelling, they don't stop.
kb9wgx
08-13-2005, 07:50 PM
When did you buy the bolt? I remember ACP saying they had alot of issues with bolts swelling, and they replaced some. They claimed they started using a different material, and the problem had been fixed.
half-step
08-13-2005, 07:58 PM
ACP makes the Blue Bolt . . . no problems with my Blue Bolt. APM made the Tiger Shark . . . they no longer make bolts.
kb9wgx
08-13-2005, 08:00 PM
Sorry, yeah, it's apm. They went out of bussiness, I didn't realize. That sucks...
xkookooman
08-13-2005, 08:04 PM
This is the bolt (http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/2917) I have for my gun.
half-step
08-13-2005, 08:09 PM
Originally posted by xkookooman
This is the bolt (http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/2917) I have for my gun.
Yep, same one we have. That is the Tiger Shark.
xkookooman
08-13-2005, 08:18 PM
Oh thats the tiger shark? I thought it was different from APM.
kb9wgx
08-13-2005, 08:33 PM
Yep. Their site is gone now too....just like dragun...:cry:
xkookooman
08-13-2005, 08:54 PM
*******S!! I dont wanna sand down my bolt. Im scared. So do I get like fine sand paper and sand it down till it goes in?
I had this problem with my gun b4 where the previous owner stipped the screw where the ball detent was supposed to go in. So it would come off and not shoot right. Also, is the stock bolt okay? I think Im gonna just use that until i can but a new one. HAha 2 more questions. Is it safe to take out the insides like the bolt and the springs and stuff while the gas is still in? And how am I supposed to chrono this gun? I forgot everything..
half-step
08-13-2005, 09:21 PM
That is what we did. We had the marker on site and sanded until it slid easily into the marker.
If you sand it by hand, it will be very difficult to sand it even. With a lathe, it spins the bolt and we just hold sandpaper to it. We were using like 600-800 grit. And then we finish sanded it with like 1500 grit.
If you don't have access to a lathe, you would have to have a big enough chuck on a drill or drill press to spin the bolt.
kb9wgx
08-13-2005, 09:21 PM
DO NOT REMOVE THE INTERNALS WHILE GASSED UP! You could hurt yourself!
The stock bolt should be fine as long as you oil it.
To chrono it, you need to adjust your regulator.
xkookooman
08-13-2005, 09:25 PM
HAha thx for telling me.. I remember this one guy cutting off a piece of my spring while the gas was still in. So thats why I asked. Anyways, I obviously dont have a lathe, whatever that is, and the drill.. well i dont know how to use it with it.. :P Also, adjust the reg is turning the big screw rite? So does it just add pressure? and which way do I turn it. Oh ya, and for putting oil into my reg, do I do it through the drop forward, where thers a little thing sticking out in the middle and a hole right above it?
half-step
08-13-2005, 09:26 PM
Remove the bolt while gassed up is not a problem. The TES is designed to do that. That is one of the benefits of top cocking. You can just pull the pin up, pull the bolt out and run a squeegee down thru it.
You can also pull the end cap, spring, and hammer out without any problem when it is gassed up. All the pressure is behind the valve. We do it all the time with our markers.
Just make sure the marker is off so you will not trip the sear.
kb9wgx
08-13-2005, 09:26 PM
Well, I've never actually used a stock TES reg, but I believe turning it to the right lowers pressure, and left increases it.
xkookooman
08-13-2005, 09:44 PM
how about oiling it. Do I need to put it through the hole in the drop?
half-step
08-13-2005, 09:53 PM
This is the best way.
http://www.*******s.com/theone20bps_tes/draguntechtips.htm
Also, do this:
http://www.rivervalleykarting.com/mac%20dev%20mod.htm
xkookooman
08-13-2005, 10:31 PM
This is what my ball detent looks like. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/Xkookooman/100_2120.jpg
It kept falling off so the guy at the store put on blue loctite. I think.. But now it seems to move around alot again, but when I try to unscrew it out with my hand, it wont. Should I just unscrew it all the way and reapply it, or keep it. and if I do unscrew it all the way, and reapply it, do I set the ball detent to be the tightest?
half-step
08-13-2005, 10:53 PM
Yikes. What ball detent is that? That sure isn't a stock detent.
If it is loose and causing a problem, I would remove it and reapply the loctite. Do you not have the stock detent? Some of the aftermarket cocker detents do not fit tight. Most of all, you should have a round cocker detent and not a hex shaped one.
xkookooman
08-13-2005, 11:09 PM
Ya, the stock one is round. I think my friend's fell out and got lost because he adjusted his too much. Someone told him that he needed to use that to adjust the pressure, and not the reg. So that probably what got it stripped. can't I just use the one right now and apply blue loctite?
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 12:45 AM
thats a cocker detent, which wont sit quite right. You CAN use that detent with locktite, but it will for ever be working free.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 08:32 AM
What do u mean for ever be working free?Ive heard that cocker detents works with "minor adjustments" . What do I need to do.
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 11:19 AM
im pretty sure the threading on the draguns detent is 10mm-1.25, tho i may be wrong. The cocker uses 3/8-24 which is about 9.53mm so the threading, tho it will catch, isnt enough to keep it on there.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 01:24 PM
So if I DO apply blue loctite, it will fit?
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 01:25 PM
no but it will be glued in there for a while.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 01:38 PM
Hmmm. Cuz b4 it was stripped, it would fit tightly. And after a while, it would go in tightly, and if I put it in too tight, it would get loose again. Like, if I put it in now, it will screw in and stay, no matter how much I try to pull it out, but it wont screw in tight. Thats why I wanna apply the blue loctite, but now im not sure.
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 01:40 PM
well you could alway replace the ball detent to get it to fit better. The lock tite will keep it in there tho so i guess it just depends on how tight you want it.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 01:44 PM
Well, I just want it to work. I dont care wherther its tight or loose, I just want it to stay in there and not cause me trouble during a game..
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 01:44 PM
then lock tite should be fine.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 01:50 PM
ahahah. Thx. Now I have to sand down my freakin bolt. Damn APM.
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 01:51 PM
LOL, yeah its a pain when bolt swell. I just had to sand the crap out of my Trbal bolt.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 01:59 PM
Did u do it by hand? How long di dit take u.
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 02:01 PM
yeah did it by hand, took me about 15mins. I used 220gt, and 400 to finish.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 02:09 PM
Really... I have no idea what that is. All I have is this one type that im holding right now. Wait. Should i make the ball detent the tightest? or like make it stick out as much as it can?
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 02:14 PM
i tend to make mine pretty tight, that way my halo cant stuff balls past them.
The grit of the sand paper is listed on the back of each sheet usualy the go up in fineness the higher they go up in number. 60-80-120-150-220-400-600-800-1500 are the most normal sheets that i find, but they can come in between those.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 02:16 PM
Mine has a big 150-A on it. Will that work?
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 02:17 PM
i woudnt suggest using it
go to wallmart and look for their tool sections. Youll be able to find upto around 800 grt there
id suggest 220-400 for quick work then 800 for clean up.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 03:53 PM
can u post a pic of ur bolt? i think i just killed mine...
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 03:58 PM
one min........
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/9286/gun1497zd.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gun1497zd.jpg)
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/5232/gun1505sl.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gun1505sl.jpg)
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3720/gun1516pp.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gun1516pp.jpg)
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/7520/gun1527nh.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gun1527nh.jpg)
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 04:16 PM
did urs always look like that? or was it smoother and shinier looking. Cuz mine looks like it was dragged on cement, and it doesnt feel like b4. damn, good thing it was only 20.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/Xkookooman/100_2122.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/Xkookooman/100_2123.jpg
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 04:19 PM
the bolt wont ever be quite as shiny as it originaly was. what you need to do once you get it fited, is to finish sand it with 1500grt sand paper. that will get it pretty close to the original finish.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 04:34 PM
damn. Im just gonna use the stock. Ive been doing this for an hour and it barely goes in. Just by touching it, I think it'll do more harm to the gun, then the gun to it.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 04:45 PM
wait, so besides being lighter, does it make a difference performance wise?
wulf1010
08-14-2005, 05:16 PM
since the material is softer then aluminum. and alot softer then anodising. The bolt wont wear the marker as badly as your aluminum bolt will. thats realy about it tho.
kb9wgx
08-14-2005, 07:08 PM
I notice less kick too. For some people that means better accuarcy.
xkookooman
08-14-2005, 09:18 PM
Ok last and final question. Just by looking at it, do u think the bolt will even work anymore? I mean, it looks and feels totally different.
half-step
08-14-2005, 09:34 PM
just keep sanding until it fits . . . it will be fine
Use higher grit sandpaper when you do your finish sand. It will smooth it out.
xkookooman
08-15-2005, 03:33 PM
YES, the ball detent doesnt move anymore, and is better than b4. YAY. Now I just need to leep sanding down my bolt, and need to lube my damn gun. Well, I think thats what the problem is. Last time, it would shoot and the bolt would go in as if the gas ran out, and I would have to recock every time.
xkookooman
08-15-2005, 04:45 PM
Nvm, new problem. I screwed on the ball detent too much, and now it sticks out so the bolt cant get past. So I unscrewed it a little, and now its okay, but it pops out a little. like, I tried shooting without co2 a couple times, and all that happens is the side popsout, but still stays firmly inside. If I move it, it wont move (with my hand), but if I try really hard and move it, itll move. Should I reapply the loctite?!!?!?
wulf1010
08-15-2005, 04:48 PM
i would suggest putting more locktite if you broke the bonds.
When you put your ball detent in make sure you have a bolt in the gun and its forward. Go till you just touch the bolt then back it off a little bit.
xkookooman
08-15-2005, 04:58 PM
damn, do u think 15 or possibly 18 hours after applying the loctite will do? Because I'm goin paintballing tomorrow. Or should I just leave it as it is..
Ive also read that adding an O-ring will keep it in place. Is this only for cockers?
wulf1010
08-15-2005, 05:39 PM
yeah 15mins should be enough for quick set locktite. adding a washer puts pressure on the threads, thats a good way to keep the balldeten in a little tigher.
xkookooman
08-15-2005, 05:42 PM
a washer? Haha, the only think that comes to my mind when I read washer is the metal disc that seperates the screw from a motherboard... Will an O-ring do? with loctite? And seeing that an oring can go in, im guessing there are smaller ones that should fit inside the hole.
Do u think the gap the loctite will be filing in will be less than 0.05mm?
wulf1010
08-15-2005, 06:26 PM
i honestly dont know what the gap will be. I ment oring when i said washer, lol sorry, and the "oring" should go on the ball detent not inside the hole.
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