How low can ya go?

[spray_n_pray]

What is the lowest pressure that you can run a blowback such as a Spyder or Piranha and still get good performance? Also how would you go about doing so besides getting a reg and a low pressure chamber?

[Hsuve]

Heh, LP cannot be achieved without a regulator. Also, a LP chamber itself will not help much. You'll need a high flowing bolt, valve, vertical adapter, hose, and regulator. I know somebody who's gone down to 210psi with the proper velocity and all.

[spray_n_pray]

So basically what you need is a reg, LPC, higher flowing ASA, higher flowing bolt ie:AKALMP lightning or Shocktech delrin, Micro or braided hose, and a turbo valve.

[spray_n_pray]

Any changes with springs on the striker or in the reg?

[MTU_Paintballer]

Originally posted by spray_n_pray
So basically what you need is a reg, LPC, higher flowing ASA, higher flowing bolt ie:AKALMP lightning or Shocktech delrin, Micro or braided hose, and a turbo valve.

Don't use micro line. Use Macro line or braided steel. The macro is nice because you can make it the size you want. Also making you internals move with less friction will help, so polish them. You also need a smaller bore barrel without a whole lot of porting to get the ball to accelerate for a longer distance. New main springs are also going to be needed to get your velocity right.

[TLplus84]

Originally posted by spray_n_pray
Any changes with springs on the striker or in the reg?
You can change the Spring on your valve and your striker. On the reg, i wouldn't unless it's the Vigilante. Softer striker/valve springs let you run at a lower PSi.

As for the Vigilante, if you are running N2 and N2 only, get a low pressure one. The high pressure vigilante won't drop it's pressure low enough for it to be true lp..

[Hsuve]

Softer striker spring? No way, a softer striker spring will only result in LOW velocities. Why? The heavier the main spring, the harder the striker hits the valve pin. The further the valve pin is hit, the more flow into your gun. While runnning a LP gun, you need high flowing parts. That's the whole main idea of LP actually, just a high flowing gun and a regulator to control the pressure. Springs aren't necessary, but a heavy main spring and a soft valve spring is the best combination. Why a soft valve spring? The softer the valve spring, the less extra pressure is exerted on the valve pin assembly in forcing it back to seal the valve. The less pressure on the valve pin assembly, the longer it's left open. The longer it's left open, the higher the flow. By high flowing hoses, I meant high flowing.
Originally posted by spray_n_pray
So basically what you need is a reg, LPC, higher flowing ASA, higher flowing bolt ie:AKALMP lightning or Shocktech delrin, Micro or braided hose, and a turbo valve.
Of all the hoses (with the exception of 'Cocker pneumatic hoses) microline is THE MOST restrictive of them all.
Originally posted by MTU_Paintballer
Don't use micro line. Use Macro line or braided steel. The macro is nice because you can make it the size you want. Also making you internals move with less friction will help, so polish them. You also need a smaller bore barrel without a whole lot of porting to get the ball to accelerate for a longer distance. New main springs are also going to be needed to get your velocity right.
You don't need a small bore barrel. I say that it's best to lower your pressure until your gun recocks while your barrel's off, that way there's no chance that your gun'll start sputterin' with the exception of a low tank of course. Porting? Have as much as you want, just as long as your gun recocks. Longer distance? All that means is a higher velocity, if it's above the limit you have to turn it down anyway.

[elTwitcho]

Originally posted by Hsuve
I know somebody who's gone down to 210psi with the proper velocity and all.

With a blowback? Are you sure you arent exagerating a bit?

[Hsuve]

Originally posted by elTwitcho
Originally posted by Hsuve
I know somebody who's gone down to 210psi with the proper velocity and all.

With a blowback? Are you sure you arent exagerating a bit?

Nope, not exaggerating. If you were ever familiar with Spyder-Club.com, there was a moderator with the name of JCHoefer-SC or somethin' like that. He got his Spyder down to that pressure by modifying everything that was already high flowin'. But honestly, I wouldn't recommend lowering the pressure that low. A Spyder's maximum efficiency pressure is around the area of 325-350psi.

[MTU_Paintballer]

Originally posted by Hsuve
Softer striker spring? No way, a softer striker spring will only result in LOW velocities. Why? The heavier the main spring, the harder the striker hits the valve pin. The further the valve pin is hit, the more flow into your gun. While runnning a LP gun, you need high flowing parts. That's the whole main idea of LP actually, just a high flowing gun and a regulator to control the pressure. Springs aren't necessary, but a heavy main spring and a soft valve spring is the best combination. Why a soft valve spring? The softer the valve spring, the less extra pressure is exerted on the valve pin assembly in forcing it back to seal the valve. The less pressure on the valve pin assembly, the longer it's left open. The longer it's left open, the higher the flow. By high flowing hoses, I meant high flowing.
Originally posted by spray_n_pray
So basically what you need is a reg, LPC, higher flowing ASA, higher flowing bolt ie:AKALMP lightning or Shocktech delrin, Micro or braided hose, and a turbo valve.
Of all the hoses (with the exception of 'Cocker pneumatic hoses) microline is THE MOST restrictive of them all.
Originally posted by MTU_Paintballer
Don't use micro line. Use Macro line or braided steel. The macro is nice because you can make it the size you want. Also making you internals move with less friction will help, so polish them. You also need a smaller bore barrel without a whole lot of porting to get the ball to accelerate for a longer distance. New main springs are also going to be needed to get your velocity right.
You don't need a small bore barrel. I say that it's best to lower your pressure until your gun recocks while your barrel's off, that way there's no chance that your gun'll start sputterin' with the exception of a low tank of course. Porting? Have as much as you want, just as long as your gun recocks. Longer distance? All that means is a higher velocity, if it's above the limit you have to turn it down anyway.

when i said longer distance, i ment the ball was accelerating for a longer distance in the barrel, not the ball was actually traveling a longer distance. Barrels with lots of porting, such as a smart parts teardrop, make the velocity drop on my gun just by adding that barrel. I have had good luck with the J and J ceramic because of the lesser porting. I know that other barrels work well too for low pressure, i just haven't tried them yet.

[Hsuve]

Yes, the more ports ya got, the lower the velocity. The reason for that is because more air leaves the barrel. If you're getting velocity problems, turn up your velocity. That's what it's for...

[MTU_Paintballer]

Originally posted by Hsuve
Yes, the more ports ya got, the lower the velocity. The reason for that is because more air leaves the barrel. If you're getting velocity problems, turn up your velocity. That's what it's for...

I was just trying to state that if you want to go as low of operating pressure as possible, a small bore, with fewer ports, barrel will help you get you gun to operate on the lowest pressure possilbe. It dosent' make much of a difference but it does help.
The velocity adjuster works but my velocity dropped so much that i had to add a stiffer spring, and inturn, turn up the pressure of my regulator to get the gun to recock.