davidb
04-06-2001, 11:10 PM
Warning: I'm not responsible for anything you guys do to yourselves/your guns. I'm just sharing my experiences with you.
Warning 2: After you do this, the safety most likely will no longer work (as with most trigger jobs)
Warning 3: This was done to a 98 CUSTOM, so there's a chance it might not work in a normal 98, I don't know.
Okay, I was borrowing my friend's M98 Custom, and unbeknownst to him... I fiddled with the internals. I looked at the back bolt, and figured the slot in there where the sear catches doesn't need to be that deep... I looked at the trigger and thought, hey, I could take the slack off of there...
Anyway, here's what I did, and here's what I used:
Electrical tape
Rubber band
Scissors
First, I put electrical tape inside the little notch where the bolt catches. Put in JUST enough so that the bolt will consistently catch on the sear. This lightens the trigger pull, because it takes less force to pull the sear off of the bolt.
Second, cut two small (~1 cm) pieces off of a rubber band. Remove the trigger from your gun, and tape the little pieces on to the back of the little sliding metal thing on the back of the trigger. The tops of the pieces should extend about 1/2 a cm up from the back of the metal thing. When you put the trigger back in and the gun is cocked (still disassembled) the rubber band/tape should be in contact with (up against) the sear when the trigger is fully forward. If it's not, put on another layer of tape. This greatly shortens the trigger pull and removes all slack.
Expiriment with different amounts until you find a good combination. Always test the gun dry-firing before you gas it up.
The trigger on my friends gun (the one I worked on)is utterly incredible for a blowback. I have a fairly slow trigger finger, but even I can fairly FLY with this thing. The trigger has no slack at all, is probably about 1 mm long and under 2 lbs pull, and heres the really crazy part. As a completely unexpected side effect, when the safety is turned ON and you pull the trigger, the gun will fire, although the trigger doesn't even seem to move. That ain't all. When you fire it with the safety on, as long as the trigger is held down, the bolt will not catch (release the trigger, bolt catches). It comes very close to catching, and it does make a little "click" and slow it down a little, but it won't catch completely even when I try to make it. I haven't actually gotten to test it out yet, (curse you, oh both of my empty 20 ouncers! {ran out while I was ripping along in semi} I know what I know merely from testing without CO2 or paint.) but if I can get it JUST RIGHT (it could already be there) then the bolt will always just ALMOST catch when the safety is on, which could slow it down enough that you could actually USE the gun in full auto! (with a revvy of course) Basically, on this particular gun, the safety has become the select fire switch.
P.S. I thought you should know, I can shoot this thing (semi) about twice as fast as I can my Shutter. Groan. I wish I was exaggerating.
P.P.S. Please don't think of this as just a F/A conversion or something, it's actually meant to just shorten and lighten the trigger for SEMI-AUTO use, which it does extremely well. Don't ask me what exactly the correct amounts are, or how to convert it to full-auto, because like I said, it was an unexpected side effect. I know this seems like the most back woods, duct tape and bailing wire, redneck trigger job out there, but it really works great. Good luck. I'll write back at a later time to tell how the full-auto thing works out. Please gimme some feedback.
[Edited by davidb on 04-07-2001 at 02:25 AM]
Warning 2: After you do this, the safety most likely will no longer work (as with most trigger jobs)
Warning 3: This was done to a 98 CUSTOM, so there's a chance it might not work in a normal 98, I don't know.
Okay, I was borrowing my friend's M98 Custom, and unbeknownst to him... I fiddled with the internals. I looked at the back bolt, and figured the slot in there where the sear catches doesn't need to be that deep... I looked at the trigger and thought, hey, I could take the slack off of there...
Anyway, here's what I did, and here's what I used:
Electrical tape
Rubber band
Scissors
First, I put electrical tape inside the little notch where the bolt catches. Put in JUST enough so that the bolt will consistently catch on the sear. This lightens the trigger pull, because it takes less force to pull the sear off of the bolt.
Second, cut two small (~1 cm) pieces off of a rubber band. Remove the trigger from your gun, and tape the little pieces on to the back of the little sliding metal thing on the back of the trigger. The tops of the pieces should extend about 1/2 a cm up from the back of the metal thing. When you put the trigger back in and the gun is cocked (still disassembled) the rubber band/tape should be in contact with (up against) the sear when the trigger is fully forward. If it's not, put on another layer of tape. This greatly shortens the trigger pull and removes all slack.
Expiriment with different amounts until you find a good combination. Always test the gun dry-firing before you gas it up.
The trigger on my friends gun (the one I worked on)is utterly incredible for a blowback. I have a fairly slow trigger finger, but even I can fairly FLY with this thing. The trigger has no slack at all, is probably about 1 mm long and under 2 lbs pull, and heres the really crazy part. As a completely unexpected side effect, when the safety is turned ON and you pull the trigger, the gun will fire, although the trigger doesn't even seem to move. That ain't all. When you fire it with the safety on, as long as the trigger is held down, the bolt will not catch (release the trigger, bolt catches). It comes very close to catching, and it does make a little "click" and slow it down a little, but it won't catch completely even when I try to make it. I haven't actually gotten to test it out yet, (curse you, oh both of my empty 20 ouncers! {ran out while I was ripping along in semi} I know what I know merely from testing without CO2 or paint.) but if I can get it JUST RIGHT (it could already be there) then the bolt will always just ALMOST catch when the safety is on, which could slow it down enough that you could actually USE the gun in full auto! (with a revvy of course) Basically, on this particular gun, the safety has become the select fire switch.
P.S. I thought you should know, I can shoot this thing (semi) about twice as fast as I can my Shutter. Groan. I wish I was exaggerating.
P.P.S. Please don't think of this as just a F/A conversion or something, it's actually meant to just shorten and lighten the trigger for SEMI-AUTO use, which it does extremely well. Don't ask me what exactly the correct amounts are, or how to convert it to full-auto, because like I said, it was an unexpected side effect. I know this seems like the most back woods, duct tape and bailing wire, redneck trigger job out there, but it really works great. Good luck. I'll write back at a later time to tell how the full-auto thing works out. Please gimme some feedback.
[Edited by davidb on 04-07-2001 at 02:25 AM]