PDA

View Full Version : Self Made E-Trigger


VertigoTech
02-14-2002, 02:46 PM
Hey all, just wanted to see if there was any interest in Self-made E-triggers? They are driven by an elctromagnetic pull-type solenoids. They mount inside of the grip and pull down on the aft part of the sear to fire it then quickly reaslase ready to fire the next shot.

Ive been working on one that just gives you semi- and turbo modes (turbo, for the uninformed out there, is when you fire when you pull the trigger in, and it fires again when you release the trigger.) Im using a very simple design that will cost less than $50! I mean its a better upgrade than the respose trigger, and more functional than the E-bolt, and cheaper than both to boot. I have recently become quite active in this, looking forward to my completion of it. Just started wiring my timing circuit last night. Ill post a picture detailing what Im trying to do.

Heres a link to the forum that got me interested:

Self Made Auto Kit (http://www.tippmann.com/forum/topic.asp?whichpage=1&pagesize=15&forum_title=Upgrades+and+Customizing&%20topic_title=Self%2DMade+full%2Dauto+electronic+ kit<br>&forum_id=8&topic_id=26813)

Any intrest from yall out there? Feel free to drop me a line on Yahoo Msg or Email.

Villhime98c
02-14-2002, 03:07 PM
I've seen pictures of the E-Bolt and it appears that it uses an electric piston to engage the sear which fires the gun. You said that your version of the E-bolt pulls the sear back so I imagine that some type of device pulls back on the right end of the sear. Does this work by magnents? Ex: One end of the sear is magnetized close to another magnent that when you run electricity through turns on, drawing the sear back and fireing the gun.

VertigoTech
02-14-2002, 03:22 PM
What a solenoid is, is a pin set in a larger elctromagnet coil. When you apply voltage it pulls the pin down, when you turn off the voltage it pops back up. so yes it does work with elctromagnets. The thing is, Tippmann's E-trigger is elctro-pumatic (bad sp) My E-kit is purely electronic so it doesnt use any air, the only problem is it uses substantially more power. This isnt a problem as i plan to set all controls and batterys in a box on the outside of your hopper where you can easily see the shot counter and mode. In Tippman's E-trigger they use a Solenoid VALVE that allows the C02 in, but that is extremly expensive as you have to buy the valve plus a regulator and all the other crap. That is why it costs 250+ dollars. This thing, electronics included, costs at most a little over 50 bucks. You definatly get more bang for your buck.

Villhime98c
02-14-2002, 03:30 PM
Have you acually test fired your gun with your self made E-Kit? It sounds very interesting. And did you buy a solenoid or make one? Also how do you program the solenoid so you can have turbo mode and other firiing modes. (Isn't when it fires on the trigger pull and the release called auto response?) This whole idea is very interesting and I may try to make one of my own, what materials would I need?

F355DUDE
02-14-2002, 03:42 PM
That sounds interesting. If it works i will probally buy one. Great job! ;)

VertigoTech
02-14-2002, 03:43 PM
I havent gotten a complete prottype together yet, but I know my solenoid works, and Im working on the timing/power management circuits. Im working hard at it. I need a diffrent solenoid, this one consumes WAY too much power (24VDC) I want to get one that is 12Volts. Only problem is, It has to be able to move 48oz but not have a diameter of more than .5 inches. otheriwise you have to kcock out the panels in the grips and then the solenoid sticks out.

Wintermute
02-14-2002, 03:46 PM
Why not use a lever mechanism with a hinge on the end so it will be a linear push? That way you could get by with less force and thus less power and solenoid size.

And yes, I'm very interested in this project. :)

VertigoTech
02-14-2002, 03:50 PM
actually thats what Im doing. Im using a pull type solenoid with a pin tapped through the sear and a small length of thin steel cable connected to the solenoid, but keep the ideas coming! I could use them, no part of my kit has been finalized yet.

F355DUDE
02-14-2002, 03:52 PM
what if you lightened the sear spring? does that make a difference?

VertigoTech
02-14-2002, 03:58 PM
no, because all the resistance on the sear comes frome the rear bolt, Im thinking that I will actually have to INCREASE the strength of the sear spring because it is that which wilkl have to pull the sear back up so the gun can recock, uless I can find a push solenoid with a return spring for much cheap, the solenoid is going to be the most expensive peice of hardware in the kit so I have to look hard for the cheapest one I can with the proper specs.

lvlatt
02-14-2002, 04:01 PM
pushing will be more effective than pulling

F355DUDE
02-14-2002, 04:03 PM
Ok then, good luck with the kit dude. I hope it works out and if it does i will get one. Be sure to post your results on pbreview.com when you finish! good luck.

VertigoTech
02-14-2002, 04:04 PM
I thought through that and i agree completly, It just that pushing solenoids are bigger and cost more.

It is also harder to get it to hit the left side of the sear than pull on a cord attached to the right one. This will allow me to fit the largest solenoid possible in the grip w/o haveing to punch out the grips.

mattimaru
02-14-2002, 07:29 PM
i am also very interested in this homemade e-kit! as long as its less money than the others

Villhime98c
02-15-2002, 05:13 PM
I have an idea for an electric trigger, its kind of crude though:
-put a magnent on bottom right of the sear
-then put an electromagnent right below it that only activates when you run electricity through it.
-run a wire from the electromagnent out the little hole where the response trigger piston protrudes then cut the end so that the end of it is bare
-on the back of your tigger attach another wire and make the end of it so that when you pull the trigger the two wires meet.
- from the wire on the trigger attach a battery or source of voltage.

the point of this is that when you pull the trigger the two wires meet which sends a current to the electromagnent, magnetizing it, then the electromagnent will draw the sear down (which has a magnent attached on it) , firing the gun. I have a pic of how this works, but the file is to big.

Loherick
02-15-2002, 08:56 PM
that idea is exelent:D

but i a little cofused....

what is a "sear" and what is a "solenoid"??

whaen i have this clear i may help you, givin you come ideas !!!

VertigoTech
02-16-2002, 10:18 AM
the electro magnetic works in theroy, but thats how it will stay, beacuse it is much less energy-efficient, so it will just DRAIN the battteries, and to make an electromagnet with enough power to pull the sear down, the elctromagnet would have to be huge. wont fit in handle.

Ah well. Does anyone know where I can get a side on view diagram of the trigger and grip assembily? I want to make a diagram of what i want to do, scince I cant describe it very visually.

VertigoTech
02-18-2002, 12:50 PM
WOOHOO! I tested the solenoid today. It will work! All I really have to do is devise a voltage dropper, cause it runs off 3 9v batteries, and it eats them. I am going to regulate it down from 27v to 12v. That should double (if not tripple or quad) the life of the batteries. 3 9vs side by side really dont take up much room at all.