Tapeworm

[99BPS]

First, what exactly does a tapeworm do for the marker?
Secend, i can get one for 50 installed....is it worth it?

[shawnfire]

Well I am not 100% sure I know it helps with bolt stick it is a air mod.....

You should be able to for less then that...

I would put on a lpr tho... much better helps with the shot count and bolt stick f.s.do and other things.... and and should be able to get that for 50 or a little more installed

[rridgeway]

tapeworms are a lot cheaper than $50, and you can install yourself. blah blah blah.

i found these two off of a quick froogle search -
http://bradyspaintball.stores.yahoo.net/smpaimdtared.html
http://estore.doodlebugsportz.com/catalog/DBS/markers/smart_parts/SPITW.html

tapeworm instruction manual -
http://www.smartparts.com/Manuals/TapewormInstall.pdf

i would buy an lpr though, i think lpr's come with a tapeworm too, don't quote me on that tho :)

[Slow_Target]

Tapeworms do nothing for the first shot drop. A tapeworm is a flow restrictor that prevents the valve from drawing air from the solenoid tube during a shot. This helps to maintain enough pressure to move the bolt and hammer assembly back into the "cocked" position. On your first shot, the solenoid tube is already at pressure and the tapeworm has absolutely no affect on the started of the firing cycle, which is where fsdo occurs. The laws of physics are at work here.
A tapeworm allows you to dry fire your Imp. They usually require a slight increase in pressure, to get back to proper fps, so they may increase effiecency.
If you feel that you need or just want one, they are easy to install by yourself. On anything 02 or newer, just unscrew the plug on the front, lube the o-rings and screw it in.

[drchocolate176]

50$ for a tapeworm is ridiculous. like slow target said, they don't help FSDO at all, and they're really only good for dry firing your impulse. you can find them for like $15 brand new, and the installation is incredibly easy.

[99BPS]

Haha...wooow...goddam paintball madness guy....hes like ill give it to u for half off (its marked at 100) and ill install it

[drchocolate176]

instead of spending 100 on that like you would have, buy an lpr or a new ram assembly.

edit: this http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/DisplayProductInformation-Start;sid=3qwY4JH9nccY2dTZiEDYSJs0F-ZY1BBM3Xk=?ProductID=3fGsFAY7TjYAAAD3U_OlA_2s

or this http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/DisplayProductInformation-Start;sid=3qwY4JH9nccY2dTZiEDYSJs0F-ZY1BBM3Xk=?ProductID=COasFAY7uWYAAAD5jA9JBmGW

[99BPS]

It has an LPR....mazflo i belive...i got it with a cuple ups already on.

[NDzImpy]

If it has an LPR than you in no way need a tapeworm.
The purpuse of the T-worm is to do half the job of the LPR-
restrict air being depleted from the solenoid by
the valve chamber.
What LPR do you have? If you have an LPR, do you have something like the
New Designz (http://www.newdesignz.com/Impulse_7.htm) ISO (http://www.newdesignz.com/Pics/art_Impulse_nipple.jpg)- This item closes the two chambers off from eachother as long as
an LPR is being used.
My advice is- stay away from the tapeworm if you have an LPR. Go ISO!

This is the LPR and ISO working together- The silver part sticking out
of the body, connected to the tube & LPR is da ISO. ISO = Isolation
Again, this completely closes the solenoid and valve chambers off from
eachother. Only route for air to take is threw the LPR.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/PDXMark/Paintball/P3050013.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/PDXMark/Paintball/Imptreecrop.jpg
This is a picture of my Imp before I purchased my NDz JH II LPR.
Before this picture I had used a tapeworm w/ stock Ram & Ram housing.
I did not like the performance of the Imp at this point. I could have stopped
upgrading, but I knew this thing to be a monster waiting to be released.
Before perchasing the NDz (http://www.newdesignz.com/) Ram-assembley-combo I had the 15 degree asa mount
running with a tapeworm. Stating the preformace of the worm, I wanted to
try an experiment. Feeding the solenoid directly off the main reg, closed
from the valve chamber.
This would mean running the noid dangerously
close to blowout pressures[150-160 psi], but I just had to see the diff
in re-pressurization timming + fsdo.[To note; on the stock ram assembley-
I ran a Ram o-ring that was one size smaller than stock- it will still keep a seal]
Running a tube straight off the main reg and into the solenoid chamber
completely killed fsdo[The WAS board could not totaly end fsdo on its own],
and majorly improved repressurization timming. As I said before, this can be
fatal to the noid. It would be a good idea to install a burst disk on the back
of the solenoid chamber.
To end;
I never had any issues of over-pressurization from my CP reg. I ran this config
for my games with much happiness. However, I would not have attempted
this mod without using a smaller o-ring on the ram to reduce friction, to
help releave the workload of the solenoid. Before going to this mod I thought
of all possible dangers to the noid, than worked around reduction of workload
to the noid its-self.

Hope that helps. I'm a litle tired of righting* now. I'll answer more questions if you have them.

EDIT:'writing' :/