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young66
01-27-2007, 02:59 PM
how do u take apart the gun to clean it and lube the bolt and everythin?

Uziel Gal
01-27-2007, 03:14 PM
Have a look at the manual - it should show you everything you need to know: -

http://www.dangerouspower.com/images/owner_s_manual%5B1%5D.pdf (http://www.dangerouspower.com/images/owner_s_manual%5B1%5D.pdf)

young66
01-27-2007, 03:21 PM
my computer wont let me download it...soo...can u jus copy and paste the manual in this thread?

Uziel Gal
01-27-2007, 03:47 PM
15 pages? Probably not a good idea. Are you giving the manual enough time to download? It's 2.8MB, so if you have a slow connection it takes a bit of time.

Betrthanworst
01-27-2007, 03:59 PM
Turn the back nob, take out the ram cap, then take the striker and lube it. put it back in the ram cap and the ram cap back into the gun.

The bolt is delrin, just pull out the pin and slide the bolt out and wipe it off.

For the LPR, unscrew it the take out a little screw on the end of it. Wipe off the shims (re install them correctly) and re lube the o rings.

young66
01-27-2007, 04:39 PM
that is soo freken confusin

Betrthanworst
01-27-2007, 05:14 PM
Not really takes less then a minute

IronCorps
01-27-2007, 08:09 PM
l1ke 0mg i c4nt r34d or waIt f0r teh manyoual t0 dOwn1load.


:dodgy:



Seriously, it's a high end gun, put some time and effort into it.

Rogue852
01-28-2007, 10:11 AM
just take it apart and figure out how it works...

i do that with everything i own. that way when/if it ever breaks you no how it works and how to fix it. you also no how to maintain it if you no how it works.

babustos
01-28-2007, 10:37 AM
Cleaning the Fusion is arguably easier to clean than spool-valves.

Cbunker
02-02-2007, 06:39 PM
No its much easier then any spool valve there are less then 10 orings in all of the gun that you need to lube

MecTurtleCocker
02-02-2007, 06:57 PM
Sure. There are few O-rings in a spool.

All you hafta do for an Ion is...

Take out the grip frame screws
Take off the banjo fittings, without breaking them
Take the body off
Unscrew the firing can
Remove the bolt assembly
And lube the O-rings..
And put it all together again..Only takes what? 45 minutes?

I bet I can get a FASOR apart in less than 5 minutes, and have it together again after lubing and cleaning in 15..

Uziel Gal
02-03-2007, 02:52 AM
But is the Ion necessarily representative of spool valves in general? A DM5 or Shocker might be a better example. Removing the bolt does not require the removal of the frame or any gas lines, or a body etc.

In either case, although the design of the spool valve may be different, the general procedure is the same - unscrew the end cap or bolt guide, push or pull out the bolt assembly, unscrew or pull apart the pieces, wipe off the old grease, check the o-rings, replace any that look worn, smear on the new grease, re-assemle the pieces, slide in, screw on the end cap/bolt guide. If you are in a hurry and skip inspecting the o-rings, it can be done very quickly.

As for the Fusion, you have 5 o-rings in the HPR (plus a flat seal), 8 in the LPR (plus a flat seal), 4 in the valve assembly, 4 on the ram and end cap. Then you have the o-rings on the barrel, in the ASA, in the solenoid. I'm not saying that the Fusion is a hard marker to maintain, but it is actually quite an o-ring heavy design if you strip it fully. Just have a quick glance at the exploded diagram in the manual, and try and think back to before you had a knowledge of paintball markers - now think how complicated that diagram looks to someone who is new to EP markers! From the eyes of the inexperienced, a spool valve is much more easily understood, and the manuals (particularly in the case of Dye/Proto) are much clearer.

MecTurtleCocker
02-03-2007, 11:02 AM
But is the Ion necessarily representative of spool valves in general? A DM5 or Shocker might be a better example. Removing the bolt does not require the removal of the frame or any gas lines, or a body etc.

Agreed, but which spool valve is the most common again?

In either case, although the design of the spool valve may be different, the general procedure is the same - unscrew the end cap or bolt guide, push or pull out the bolt assembly, unscrew or pull apart the pieces, wipe off the old grease, check the o-rings, replace any that look worn, smear on the new grease, re-assemle the pieces, slide in, screw on the end cap/bolt guide. If you are in a hurry and skip inspecting the o-rings, it can be done very quickly.

You mentioned regulator seals in the Fusion, but neglected to mention them here. For the shocker, you have regulator, and even maybe Max Flo rings, and the Trix has an LPR and and HPR to work on. In addition, there is the solenoid seals.

As for the Fusion, you have 5 o-rings in the HPR (plus a flat seal), 8 in the LPR (plus a flat seal), 4 in the valve assembly, 4 on the ram and end cap. Then you have the o-rings on the barrel, in the ASA, in the solenoid. I'm not saying that the Fusion is a hard marker to maintain, but it is actually quite an o-ring heavy design if you strip it fully. Just have a quick glance at the exploded diagram in the manual, and try and think back to before you had a knowledge of paintball markers - now think how complicated that diagram looks to someone who is new to EP markers! From the eyes of the inexperienced, a spool valve is much more easily understood, and the manuals (particularly in the case of Dye/Proto) are much clearer.
I agree, but from a standpoint of disassembly, a FASOR, or poppet marker is closed to what a majority of us started on, a Stacked Tube blowback.

Uziel Gal
02-03-2007, 11:32 AM
I wasn't trying to say that a DM5 or Shocker had less o-rings, and wasn't covering up the fact that all the markers have HPRs (no LPR in a Shocker mind), I was just saying that there are actually still quite a lot of o-rings in the Fusion if you think about it.

I just find it odd that people constantly criticise the maintenance required on spool valve markers. It's true that they require regular maintenance, but it's normally very quick and easy to do.

As for numbers, I can't say for sure which is most numerous, but they've been making Shockers for five years now, and the Matrix has been around in one form or another even longer, so the Ion isn't necessarily the winner (although there's certainly a hell of a lot of them! :P )

MecTurtleCocker
02-03-2007, 11:43 AM
I wasn't trying to say that a DM5 or Shocker had less o-rings, and wasn't covering up the fact that all the markers have HPRs (no LPR in a Shocker mind), I was just saying that there are actually still quite a lot of o-rings in the Fusion if you think about it.

I just find it odd that people constantly criticise the maintenance required on spool valve markers. It's true that they require regular maintenance, but it's normally very quick and easy to do.

As for numbers, I can't say for sure which is most numerous, but they've been making Shockers for five years now, and the Matrix has been around in one form or another even longer, so the Ion isn't necessarily the winner (although there's certainly a hell of a lot of them! :P )

Certainly there are more Trixies from way back when..But do they get used as often as Ions? I doubt it..Its most of the older players who sit there pointing at their Gen-E's, which are covered in dust, going on about how efficient they are.

I agree that there are many seals in a Fusion..But you made it sound very biased, by not counting the seals in a Matrix, or a Shocker.

Uziel Gal
02-03-2007, 12:45 PM
Actually, I didn't give a seal count for the Shocker or DM at all. :P If anything, I was trying to counter the bias people have against spool valve markers.

ps If people are talking about the efficiency of old Matrix markers, they're normally talking about how INefficient they were. Those things absolutely needed a bolt upgrade.....

MecTurtleCocker
02-03-2007, 01:13 PM
I agree that there are many seals in a Fusion..But you made it sound very biased, by not counting the seals in a Matrix, or a Shocker.

Didn't we talk about skimming over posts in WGP Uziel :)

I knew you were biasing it against the Fusion. I said it right there.

Actually, I didn't give a seal count for the Shocker or DM at all. :P If anything, I was trying to counter the bias people have against spool valve markers. GNARR READ THE POSTS.

ps If people are talking about the efficiency of old Matrix markers, they're normally talking about how INefficient they were. Those things absolutely needed a bolt upgrade.....

Efficient for an Oldschool Trixie anyway...

Uziel Gal
02-03-2007, 01:38 PM
Er, no. I didn't say that at all.

I didn't say that I was biasing my comments against the Fusion at all. I didn't bias my comments against the Fusion (and if you thought I did, that wasn't my intention). What I said was that I was being less biased towards the spool valve markers than everyone else was, not that I was being more biased (or at all biased for that matter) against the Fusion. There's a world of difference between my having positive things to say about a spool valve marker, and being actively negative about another.

The only thing I said that was truly negative, was that the Fusion manual isn't as good as a DM or PM manual, and I'm happy to stand by that comment. Other than that, all I said was that the Fusion actually has quite a lot of parts. Is that a negative or biased comment? To my mind, that's a statement of fact.

I own ram operated markers, and I own spool valve markers, and I have never found the maintenance of the spool valve markers to be at all onerous. It's quick, it's simple, it just has to be done more frequently. That was the comment I was trying to make, and which you have been picking to death.....