Any more JT issues

[Icefire]

Man, I answer about 10 post today and I think I address most of the problems that the Excellerator has. Am I that good or am I just one bore son of a gun (pun intended).

Hit me with more questions!!!!

[trewslyde]

k, so if I were to get a spyder grip frame, and some sticky grips. what kind of drop forward would I need? or would I have to make my own? and If I were to skip getting a new frame, could I still get a drop forward, and just replace the hose with a newer, longer one, would that work? and I think this has already been answered some where in this forum but, is the 4.0 threads set to match spyders (i.e. barrels, X-chambers)? Since it is very dangerous to put oil in the asa, what if some dripped in there by accident, what would I need to do to get it out, and be sure I was safe if I switched to HPA?
maybe that'll keep ya busy for a bit eh?

[MCC]

lol :laugh: that should keep him busy

[Icefire]

Originally posted by trewslyde
k, so if I were to get a spyder grip frame, and some sticky grips. what kind of drop forward would I need? or would I have to make my own? and If I were to skip getting a new frame, could I still get a drop forward, and just replace the hose with a newer, longer one, would that work? and I think this has already been answered some where in this forum but, is the 4.0 threads set to match spyders (i.e. barrels, X-chambers)? Since it is very dangerous to put oil in the asa, what if some dripped in there by accident, what would I need to do to get it out, and be sure I was safe if I switched to HPA?
maybe that'll keep ya busy for a bit eh?

This would be a nice warmup for my day.

Most of the answer to you questions and more has been answer by me already. Look
http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41209

But just in case:
1.) If you put a Spyder grip frame you could make your own unless you could find one that will fit (I haven't found one yet). You could also replace the whole bottom part of the gun with a Spyder vertical adaptor, x-chamber/reg./gas through, longer SS line, ASA, any drop forward you like, and the frame.

2.) If you just want to get a new dropforward, you'll have to get new SS line, vertical adaptor, and x-chamber/reg./gas through.

3.) Upgradable parts are listed in the above url.

4.) I have put a lot of oil through the ASA and my 4.0 still works fine. You should not worry about going to HPA. Most if not all the oil would be remove after a day of playing. And that thing about the gun exploding if you put oil in and go with HPA, I haven't heard about anyone's marker going up in flame. The only reason why they don't want you to put oil in there is because of the gauge.

[Reason]

i was told not to oil the air adapter because if someone took the gauge off then put it on a tank of air and there was a spark there could be a massive explosion. that is the theory behind it.. besides if you oil all your o-rings when you take your gun apart to clean it you shouldnt have to oil through the air adapter anyway.. right?

[MyJTRox]

The only oil that even gets close to your air adapter is the drop or 2 that you wanna put on the threads where your tank/remote and gun come together.

[Reason]

correct myjtrox

[Icefire]

Originally posted by Reason
i was told not to oil the air adapter because if someone took the gauge off then put it on a tank of air and there was a spark there could be a massive explosion. that is the theory behind it.. besides if you oil all your o-rings when you take your gun apart to clean it you shouldnt have to oil through the air adapter anyway.. right?

There is a couple things wrong with this. 1.) How would you create a spark by screwing in a gauge? 2.) Is PB oil flamable or the air in the tank? I the oil is flamable than it would have a warning on the outside and it would useless in our gun because it'll evaporate. The air in the tank is the air around us.

I don't see where there is fuel to start the explosion. So, till I hear an acceptable explanation, that person is full of it.

A better explanation is that the oil may throw off the gauge or demage it. Oil tend to get thinker as it gets colder and CO2 coming out of the tank is cold. Also, when oil gets old, it gets think.

The reason why you would put oil in the ASA is not just for the o-ring in the bolt and stricker. How about the o-rings/seal in the SS line, the valve, x-chamber, and volumizer? How about the valve seal - oil helps protect it and allow it to seal better? You'll not going to take these apart everytime...are you? If yes, you'll going to f*ck up you gun really fast.

[Reason]

so youre saying when i oil "all the orings" which includes all the o-rings... not just the ones you selected... that the oil is just going to go away on the non-moving oring and parts with seals?

icefire youre just making assumptions like you know everything everyone does.

im just telling you what I was told by professional paintball suppliers.

[Icefire]

Originally posted by Reason
so youre saying when i oil "all the orings" which includes all the o-rings... not just the ones you selected... that the oil is just going to go away on the non-moving oring and parts with seals?

icefire youre just making assumptions like you know everything everyone does.

im just telling you what I was told by professional paintball suppliers.

Reason, I DID NOT said "that the oil just going to go away". I said if the oil was flamable (which it ISN'T) it would evaporate.

You are correct that I am making some assumptions, but these assumptions are base on COMMON sense and the knowledge I aquired from other sources. If you think my assumptions are incorrect, please provide evadence to the contrary.

I welcome all decision to further my understand of the sport!

[Reason]

im just responding to the point of which im not retarded, like 99% of other people in the world. your assumtions are simply that of which would be a response to someone that was retarded, which i am not.

[Icefire]

Reason, I apologize if I said something that would imply that you are retarded. It was not my intention to imply that or anything else that would offend you. My only goal was to help as many JT owners as possible, because there was no one to help me when I needed it. I was one of the first ones to buy the Excellorator and I ran into most of the problems that you all had at one time or the other. Some people were very helpful by giving me their experience with other guns, but others just want to screw around and give mis-information.

Again, I apologize if I offend you.

[Creek]

Well oil and oxygen are flammable. Oil does have a flash point but its like real high. I could look it up in a MSDS if you really like to know this flash point. The air in your tank or from the scuba tank does not react to the oil. just oxygen. Oxygen thats used on a toruch set up.
Just letting you know.

[Reason]

thank you creek for confirming my information.

[Icefire]

Creek: You are absolutly right. Oil does have a very high flash point and depending on the type of oil, will have a different flash point. Also the oxygen from the tank provide the other component to fuel the burn/explosion. So there is a chance of catch fire if a very high source of heat is available, but I don't think a small spark will be able to provide that in normal conditions. I check the oil out with a 1500 F degree touch tonight to see if it will burn or not.

I like someone to look into this if it is a danger or not. Here are my thought on this and please correct me if I'm wrong. The only markers I have seen that said do not oil is those that have a gauge on it and none on those that does not have a gauge (tippy, spyders, JT 3.0, etc) do not said do not oil. This leads me to believe that the gauge is the reason not to oil the ASA. Since there is no "Warning" or other danger signs (like on the side of the marker about injury and that this is not a toy, etc), it leads me to believe that it is a machincal issue and not a fire/explosive issue.

Reason: Do you remember where you heard this? I like to find some more information, because I might be going to HPA soon.

[Playa1331]

This is a pretty simple question but do any dye grips fit the JT 4.0?

[Reason]

well, jt is the one that says not to oil the asa, I asked my local paint store where I bought my 4.0 about this and they told me it is a technical issue because if you too the gauge off and used it on another type of tank and there was a spark it could cause the tank to explode basically as if it was a major bomb.

so yes it is because of the gauge and yes it is because if the guage was used on a different type of tank after being oiled and there was a spark there could be a major explosion.

but just for the record, disasembling my marker and cleaning/oiling all the oirings without puting oil through the asa isnt going to damage my marker in any way (like you stated would happen) yes for those people that dont know what they are doing this could be a problem.. but for someone like me that knows all about precision tolerances its only going to be that much better for the functionality of my marker. ;)

[Icefire]

Originally posted by Playa1331
This is a pretty simple question but do any dye grips fit the JT 4.0?

None that I have found. The closest might be the the 45 grip. You will have to do some cutting to get it to fit. Also the screw location is a little off (~ 1 cm).

[Toadboy]

I've had my JT Excel 4.0 for about 1/2 months and have used it twice. I had an occasion where a part of the gun was in backwards and the CO2 was attached. The gun completely froze over and emptied the tank. Now, some of the o-rings seem to not work, and air is leaking out of the barrel when uncocked. Is this an o-ring problem? And do you know the size of the square o-ring/washer in the top of the expansion chamber? I may have some trouble finding it. Another issue: does it matter which kind of o-ring is used on a paintball gun? Should they meet certain requirements or specifications such as temperature-proof or material?

Thanks yo.

[Icefire]

Originally posted by Toadboy
I've had my JT Excel 4.0 for about 1/2 months and have used it twice. I had an occasion where a part of the gun was in backwards and the CO2 was attached. The gun completely froze over and emptied the tank. Now, some of the o-rings seem to not work, and air is leaking out of the barrel when uncocked. Is this an o-ring problem? And do you know the size of the square o-ring/washer in the top of the expansion chamber? I may have some trouble finding it. Another issue: does it matter which kind of o-ring is used on a paintball gun? Should they meet certain requirements or specifications such as temperature-proof or material?

Thanks yo.

Leak from the barrel is usually the cup seal. Replacing the cup seal should help. If it still leaks, your valve or the valve o-rings might be demage. Shine a light down the front of the valve and see if you see any dents or scratchs. If you do, it is the valve. You'll need to take that out and sand the front (the side with the bigger hole) down. Get some 400 and 800 grid wet/dry sandpaper. Tape the 400 to a piece of glass (glass table, mirror, etc) and sand it down until the lip of the hole is nice a flat, finish with the 800 grid.

Also, a lot of guns will leak when not cocked. This is usually cause by either a weak valve spring or a strong main spring. You might look into replacing one or both of these. Mad man or 32 degree springs for the Spyder will work on the 3.0 and 4.0.

Sorry, I don't know what size the washer is on the expansion chamber. I haven't have the pleasure of replacing it yet. Give Jt a call. There number is on their web sight or I can give it to you if you want.

Depending on where the o-ring is, you can use different ones. The ones on the bolt and stricker are not as affect by temp, but is more affect by wear from going back and forth. You'll need an oring that is made for piston type action. The tank, volumizer, valve, and expansion chamber orings are affect by temp but not from movement. Get an o-ring that will take temp for these. I use EPR type orings for all of the above because it is cheap (10 cents each for 250 after shipping) and will last long. The black type o-rings they use in our guns are Buna-N (Nitrile / NBR) type that doesn't last or as temp in-sensitive as the EPR. Here is somemore information. http://216.87.177.161/material_selection.htm

I think the best type to use for the moving parts are teflon but they are usually non-elastic so they might break easier. They also cost a lot and very hard to find when you just want to buy just a few.

[Toadboy]

What size are the o-rings?

[Icefire]

The bolt, volumizer, valve, and the tank o-rings are AS568A-015 (ID 9/16, OD 11/16, W 1/16) and the stricker o-ring is AS568A-016 (ID 5/8, OD 3/4, W 1/16). I'm not sure what size the x-chamber o-rings are.

[escortle]

i love my 4.0, but it's leaking out the low pressure volumizer. It did it the 1st time i tried to puit a tsank on. I played with it a few weeks later, it worked awesome. I just tried to screw the tank on again, and it started leaking again. What's the deal, how do i fix it. I replaced the o-ring, and tried teflon tape the slowed the leak, but it's still there. I play again in a week. Please help.

Also, while I was playong it didn't cock itself all the way a couple of times, what's the reason for that, how do i fix it.

[SlamN64]

I had the same problem with the leaky volumizer when I first got my 4.0. I replaced the o-ring and lubed it and it was fixed. Hope this helps!

[JewishRanger]

So, I'm not exactly sure and I'm confused about the oil in ASA. I read on a site that proper maintanance of a gun requires 3-4 drops of oil in the ASA and then dry firing about 30 times. I've done this about twice and nothing wrong has happened to my gun, but after reading this thread I'm confused and worried that I totally screwed my gun up. Can someone please clearly explain what I really need to do. I also have another question so read it on this thread: http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=47119

[platinum]

A lot of team mates noticed my 4.0 does not shoot far at all. i tried turning the velocity up but that just makes the ball curve. I know this can now be because of the a)barrell or b)regulator, what do you think it is, and what can i do about it. My gun is powerless, but amazingly quiet, please help me.

John.

[Shazbot]

I somehow doubt that the problem is with your reg. I'd guess it's either your barrel, or more likely, the paint-barrel match. Are you positive the paint you're using is a good fit to the JT's barrel? If it is too small you could get results like yours.

[escortle]

I have a 4.o with a 12" AA. It shoots good.

[MyJTRox]

Which spring is in your JT, cuz if you have the wrong spring, the weak one will only shoot like 175 fps in cooler weather. Well, that's only if you got an extra spring w/ your 4.0, but the one that wasn't in the gun when i got it was a weaker spring that i used in florida, but now that i'll be playing and the weater is like 50 degrees I have to use my other spring.

[thursday]

mine didnt come with an extra spring... just came with extra 0-rings, a cup seal, and some oil... and an extra key ring.

[Icefire]

Easies way to clear this up is for you to send JT an e-mail and ask them. Got to JT's web site and they will have an e-mail address on it. Also the regulator on the 4.0 is NOT a preasure regulator but a flow regulator.

[platinum]

i use the stock barrel with diablo blaze and inferno. I am going to try changing springs now, and screw the reg in all the way. Maybe i'll try different paint too, maybe. :rolleyes:

Thanks for all the help, if ya find something else, email me at platte@bellsouth.net. Thanks