Ebonclaw
11-19-2007, 03:31 PM
First off, NEVER remove the valve unless you have reason to suspect it is causing a leak in the gun. Me being the tinkerer I am, decided to take the gun apart and clean the valve for no other reason than I hadn't cleaned it in like, 8 cases. At least. Mind you, the gun was still performing top notch, but with an upcoming tourny, I figured I'd give the whole gun an overhaul.
Now, it's not exactly a pain to get to the valve, but the point here is I didn't need to. If you DO need to though, here's what I've learned.
1) After stripping out the LPR, and valve pin and spring, as well as the striker and removing the set screw that holds the valve in place, USE A SOFT SQUEEGEE like a battleswab or a plastic stick. Do NOT use anything metal. I was smart in this regard and didn't do this, but it's easy to see why looking back on it. The valve is in there TIGHT. When you remove, it's in there SO tight that after pushing it out the front (don't even try to get it out the back where the striker was), there were metal shavings in the orings from having scraped along the inside of the bottom tube. Yes, it did require me to replace both o-rings as a result, make sure you have spares on hand. They are the same size as a common tank o-ring though from what I could tell. After getting it out, replace the o-rings and lube them up good. Take a qtip and remove any excess lube that got inside the valve. It's ok to leave some on the metal inbetween the o-rings, it'll help the valve go back into place easier. Whe reinserting the valve, the SMALL hole of the valve goes towards the BACK of the gun (where the striker would be.) You'll also notice one side of the valve has a hole, the other has a flat square with a hole. You want to hole with the flat square cutout with the hole where the set screw goes. Put it in there as staight as you can, then take a small allen wrench and insert it into the set screw hole, and push it up through the valve gently till it tops. Now you can use the allen wrench to *gently* orient the valve properly because odds are no matter how straight you tried to put it in, it still turned a bit and will not align with the set screw hole without some adjustment. If you cannot orient the valve with the allen wrench, then you'll have to take the valve back out and try to orient it again. ONce in place, tighten the set screw ALL the way in. It will NOT sit flush with the body when tightened properly, it will go inside the frame but it will not go far enough to interfere with the valve pin.
The rest of it goes back together rather easily with lube and love. But if upon gassing up the gun, it leaks from the valve you have either damaged an o-ring or the valve is backwards or upside down or both. Take it apart and try again.
Like I said, do NOT mess with the valve unless you HAVE a leak from the valve. It requires NO maintenence unless an o-ring fails and the lube on those orings stays good for thousands and thousands of rounds. Seriously. Don't mess with it.
2). If your Fusion is expereiencing stuttering shots, dropoff, or similar problems, ensure the LPR is turned up properly, the HPR is reading at 200-250, AND MAKE SURE YOUR ON/OFF is engaged ALL the way. A partially screwed in on/off will not supply the gun with the proper air supply and will cause the gun to stutter. Stupid mistake you don't want to make in a game, so when you air up, air up all the way.
3). Check and clean the eyes periodically. When doing so, be aware that when you remove the eye covers, there is also a tiny round ball (the detent) that is held in place by a very very small spring. The spring puts pressure on the ball detent when the eye cover is holding it in place, so when you remove the eye cover, be sure you don't lose the spring OR the ball detent. I've spent enough time looking for that stupid spring before I finally found it.
4). Bolt and striker. Once per game day. Seriously. That's it. Take the bolt out, look at it and wipe off any goo, dirt or debris, and stick it back in. Yeah. Lube the two o-rings on the striker once per game day, and you're done. The gun is THAT easy to maintain. Once for every three times I play, or once per every case and a half, I tear down and rebuild the HPR and lube the LPR. I really have never encountered any problems to say that I need to do that yet, but it's on par with DP's reccomended maintenence routine.
5). Don't worry too much if you have to unplug wiring harness from the 'board for some reason. It's easy to pull both the harness wire and the socket the harness is supposed to plug into right off the board. THIS IS GOOD, it's DESIGNED TO DO THAT. If it happens, simply seperate the socket and harness, and line up the socket with the pins on the board and press it back down onto the pins. Bam! Reinstalled. It's done this way so that if someone were to apply too much stress on the harness, it wouldn't damage the board or require resoldering. I freaked out the first time I did that thinking I'd ripped my solednoid wire harness socket clean off the board, then I figured out WHY.
6). The Cobalt blue Fusion is sexy, but impossible to find a matching barrel kit for.
Now, it's not exactly a pain to get to the valve, but the point here is I didn't need to. If you DO need to though, here's what I've learned.
1) After stripping out the LPR, and valve pin and spring, as well as the striker and removing the set screw that holds the valve in place, USE A SOFT SQUEEGEE like a battleswab or a plastic stick. Do NOT use anything metal. I was smart in this regard and didn't do this, but it's easy to see why looking back on it. The valve is in there TIGHT. When you remove, it's in there SO tight that after pushing it out the front (don't even try to get it out the back where the striker was), there were metal shavings in the orings from having scraped along the inside of the bottom tube. Yes, it did require me to replace both o-rings as a result, make sure you have spares on hand. They are the same size as a common tank o-ring though from what I could tell. After getting it out, replace the o-rings and lube them up good. Take a qtip and remove any excess lube that got inside the valve. It's ok to leave some on the metal inbetween the o-rings, it'll help the valve go back into place easier. Whe reinserting the valve, the SMALL hole of the valve goes towards the BACK of the gun (where the striker would be.) You'll also notice one side of the valve has a hole, the other has a flat square with a hole. You want to hole with the flat square cutout with the hole where the set screw goes. Put it in there as staight as you can, then take a small allen wrench and insert it into the set screw hole, and push it up through the valve gently till it tops. Now you can use the allen wrench to *gently* orient the valve properly because odds are no matter how straight you tried to put it in, it still turned a bit and will not align with the set screw hole without some adjustment. If you cannot orient the valve with the allen wrench, then you'll have to take the valve back out and try to orient it again. ONce in place, tighten the set screw ALL the way in. It will NOT sit flush with the body when tightened properly, it will go inside the frame but it will not go far enough to interfere with the valve pin.
The rest of it goes back together rather easily with lube and love. But if upon gassing up the gun, it leaks from the valve you have either damaged an o-ring or the valve is backwards or upside down or both. Take it apart and try again.
Like I said, do NOT mess with the valve unless you HAVE a leak from the valve. It requires NO maintenence unless an o-ring fails and the lube on those orings stays good for thousands and thousands of rounds. Seriously. Don't mess with it.
2). If your Fusion is expereiencing stuttering shots, dropoff, or similar problems, ensure the LPR is turned up properly, the HPR is reading at 200-250, AND MAKE SURE YOUR ON/OFF is engaged ALL the way. A partially screwed in on/off will not supply the gun with the proper air supply and will cause the gun to stutter. Stupid mistake you don't want to make in a game, so when you air up, air up all the way.
3). Check and clean the eyes periodically. When doing so, be aware that when you remove the eye covers, there is also a tiny round ball (the detent) that is held in place by a very very small spring. The spring puts pressure on the ball detent when the eye cover is holding it in place, so when you remove the eye cover, be sure you don't lose the spring OR the ball detent. I've spent enough time looking for that stupid spring before I finally found it.
4). Bolt and striker. Once per game day. Seriously. That's it. Take the bolt out, look at it and wipe off any goo, dirt or debris, and stick it back in. Yeah. Lube the two o-rings on the striker once per game day, and you're done. The gun is THAT easy to maintain. Once for every three times I play, or once per every case and a half, I tear down and rebuild the HPR and lube the LPR. I really have never encountered any problems to say that I need to do that yet, but it's on par with DP's reccomended maintenence routine.
5). Don't worry too much if you have to unplug wiring harness from the 'board for some reason. It's easy to pull both the harness wire and the socket the harness is supposed to plug into right off the board. THIS IS GOOD, it's DESIGNED TO DO THAT. If it happens, simply seperate the socket and harness, and line up the socket with the pins on the board and press it back down onto the pins. Bam! Reinstalled. It's done this way so that if someone were to apply too much stress on the harness, it wouldn't damage the board or require resoldering. I freaked out the first time I did that thinking I'd ripped my solednoid wire harness socket clean off the board, then I figured out WHY.
6). The Cobalt blue Fusion is sexy, but impossible to find a matching barrel kit for.