I need help picking out a bore

[RickJames123]

Im new to paintball and im looking to upgrade my barrel on my spyder tl-r to a cp 14 inch one piece barrel. They give me I think three options of bore sizes to choose from and I have no I deal which to buy because of the wide variety of paintballs I use. I tried to look up the bore sizes of paintballs and barrels in the barrel buying guide but I really dont know what to pick. Would it be better to get a medium bore or a large bore? I am assuming that a smaller bore would just break paint.

[Psycho_warden]

Generally, the best bore to go with if you plan on using a pretty wide variety of paint is a .689 bore. It's a pretty standard bore that will fit most paint pretty well.

[Schecter1277]

Generally, the best bore to go with if you plan on using a pretty wide variety of paint is a .689 bore. It's a pretty standard bore that will fit most paint pretty well.

Negative, you want to overbore, you'll get much better shots. Go with a .693. I've been using a CP .693 with my timmy for a month now and it's accurate as hell.

[Psycho_warden]

Negative, you want to overbore, you'll get much better shots. Go with a .693. I've been using a CP .693 with my timmy for a month now and it's accurate as hell.

Man, I'm out of the loop of facts apparently. Last I checked, most paint varies from .686 to .691, so a .689 would fit those fairly well, giving you better accuracy, and efficiency...But...what do I know, I've only been playing 8 years.

[fuzzyllama]

.689 is usually the standard. but if i were buying it, i would go .687 or so because it seems that paint is generally getting smaller and smaller

[iliveforthis99]

If you're wanting to get as good a paint to bore match then i'd maybe shoot for barrel kit. You can pick up Evil Pipe kits for fairly cheap these days and they damn good IMO. If you're using a wide range of paint that is is different sizes and really want a one piece a .693 would be ok. Most stock barrels are around that size since and it does fairly well w/ most sizes of paint. Expect efficiency to suffer a little though if the paint is to small for it.

[AmaproPaintball]

It's better to be a little too big of a bore than too small of a bore too. .689 paint will fit out of a .693 bore, you just need tune up your velocity adjustment to achieve that 285 fps because air is escaping from around the ball. However, .693 paint isn't going to fair too well in a .689 bore barrel. Refer back to the last thread about inserts and "common" bore sizes. There can be slight fluxuations during the day depending on temprature and humidity. Man up and buy a barrel kit with full range of inserts.

[RickJames123]

I dont really have extra money right now to afford a barrel kit. Would a smart parts progressive barrel be better than the cp barrel? There is only a 5 dollar difference and if the progressive is better I would rather get that.

[AmaproPaintball]

Try Ebay, or the classifieds on any forum, you can usually pick up a barrel kit pretty cheap. No point in spending money twice.

[iliveforthis99]

Yeah buy a used kit if you can, picked my Pipe for $40 shipped. It's well worth paying the $10-$20 extra if you're looking for the best paint to bore match.

[NickMoore04]

buying a new barrel kit sucks lol man that hurts to click confirm on... I just bought a SLY kit for $200... I would suggest finding a Dye Xcel actually... if you can find one it is a damn nice barrel for roughly $10 new now...

[inuyasharox4776]

Negative, you want to overbore, you'll get much better shots. Go with a .693. I've been using a CP .693 with my timmy for a month now and it's accurate as hell.your ignorance sickens me.

[NickMoore04]

your ignorance sickens me.

he is right... in a sense... but there is too much wrong with "overbore" because air could get around the ball causing massive turbulence and you will lose accuracy... you could have a cocker and end up dropping the ball right out of your barrel... you more than likely wont have breaks associated with having too small of a bore though... other than that you wont get "perfect" accuracy with overboring all you get is more turbulence, poor air efficiency and a headache...

Basically get .689 or .691ish if you can't get a kit... its better to be slightly bigger than you need than smaller... big paint in a small bore is nasty... you are much better off with a barrel kit though...

[spanner]

Hey guys what's up? I'm also new to pintballing, do you know of any good places to go splatter some paint in Sacramento?

[inuyasharox4776]

he is right... in a sense... but there is too much wrong with "overbore" because air could get around the ball causing massive turbulence and you will lose accuracy... you could have a cocker and end up dropping the ball right out of your barrel... you more than likely wont have breaks associated with having too small of a bore though... other than that you wont get "perfect" accuracy with overboring all you get is more turbulence, poor air efficiency and a headache...

Basically get .689 or .691ish if you can't get a kit... its better to be slightly bigger than you need than smaller... big paint in a small bore is nasty... you are much better off with a barrel kit though...no, he isnt right. you shouldnt over bore nor under bore.What you SHOULD do is get the correct bore-to-paint ratio. If you overbore, you turn you crank your velocity way up and your wasting air. If you have the correct P-B Ratio, you get better air consumption and you dont get breaks.

[Lenny17]

^^^
But unless he buys a kit, there is no way to predict what size paint he will be using, and no way to compensate for the changes in size due to weather or batch variations. I think we all agree that the proper bore (preferably through a kit) is the one to get, but if you can only buy one barrel, I would rather err a little large.

On my Edge kit, usually shooting RPS paint, I tend to use my .685 or .688 back.

Another question: what marker do you have? The stock barrel on a PMR isn't nearly as bad as the stock barrel of a spyder or tippmann.

[inuyasharox4776]

well, if your buying premium paint the ball consistency shouldnt vary very much. Also, if you keep your paint out of sunlight and in a cool place you wouldnt have to worry. And batch variations? Never heard of that. Batches from a credible company should always remain consistent. Now if your buying Monster balls or paint more worthless than crap (i.e. white box paint), I could understand batch variations. But what do i know, I only played for 8 years.

[RickJames123]

Well I found a evil kit and a empire kit for close to the same price. I convince my parents to let me borrow some money. Would you reccoment the evil pipe kit or the empire 4 piece kit? I read some reviews about the evil and it seems as if the evil is better but some have complained about the tip being flimsy or something along those lines.

[iliveforthis99]

The very tip of the Pipe is then but you could just get an Ultra tip if the kit doesn't already have one.

[Lenny17]

well, if your buying premium paint the ball consistency shouldnt vary very much. Also, if you keep your paint out of sunlight and in a cool place you wouldnt have to worry. And batch variations? Never heard of that. Batches from a credible company should always remain consistent. Now if your buying Monster balls or paint more worthless than crap (i.e. white box paint), I could understand batch variations. But what do i know, I only played for 8 years.
I agree with you that good quality paint that is well cared for will be very consistent, I won't argue you that point. Every time I've used Marbs they have been very high quality and consistent, I've loved them. But I also know that a lot of people don't have the budget to always buy good paint, or they are maybe at the mercy of their local store as to what is in stock, and there is no telling how Wally-World treats their paint. Unless someone specifially says "I use x brand paint", I assume the worst.

[Schecter1277]

Man, I'm out of the loop of facts apparently. Last I checked, most paint varies from .686 to .691, so a .689 would fit those fairly well, giving you better accuracy, and efficiency...But...what do I know, I've only been playing 8 years.

Yeah what would you know, my coach has been playing 18 and he has figured out that a HUGE bore is the best setup. As far as efficiency, the 6-7 extra shots aren't gonna matter a whole lot.
I've done the barrel kit, been playing 5 years and I will admit it gave me good accuracy, but a .693 not only gives me better accuracy but also a more stable fps. Of +/- 1-2 as opposed to the barrel kit where if they swell velocities can vary greatly if the conditions are right. Also, if you get paint in the barrel, it won't affect it as much because the ball never touches the edges of the barrel. It is also quieter. I have used a .689 CP 14'' and the .693 is much quieter. because of the lower pressure of air by the end of the barrel.
With a kit you're paying 2-3 times as much for good accuracy in the right conditions, however a hot or humid day and end that in a heartbeat. CP 1 piece is ~$50, gives you great accuracy even with a chop and is quieter.

Shall I continue, or is that enough evidence? I know what I'm talking about, and so does he.

[inuyasharox4776]

6-7 shots? waaaay more than that, buddy.

[Lenny17]

Yeah, having seen the wild accuracy problems of a HUGE overbore, I'll have to respectfully disagree.

A kit is paying 2-3 times for good accuracy in ALL conditions. A single bore barrel of .693 may be slightly more accurate than a kit with a .693, but what do you do when your paint is running at .680? With a kit you adjust the back and maintain your accuracy. With a single bore you are short on luck (and accuracy).

[inuyasharox4776]

With a kit you're paying 2-3 times as much for good accuracy in the right conditions, however a hot or humid day and end that in a heartbeat. CP 1 piece is ~$50, gives you great accuracy even with a chop and is quieter.

Shall I continue, or is that enough evidence? I know what I'm talking about, and so does he.waaaait...the point of a barrel kit is to take care of fluctuating paint conditions, so it wont end your accuracy in a heartbeat, overboring will :rolleyes: Also, if you know how to take care of your paint your paint wont change. Good paint care includes: flipping the box every couple of days, when you go play you dont LEAVE IT IN THE CAR, you close off the hole with a twist tie or something like that, and to avoid hot conditions by getting one of those blue freeze packs and a small ice chest and putting your paint in the bag in there to keep it nice and cool without condensation your paint will not fluctuate.
edit:
A good rule of thumb for getting the right bore of a barrel: If you put a paintball in it and the paintball rolls out, your bore is too big. If you put it in and you try to flick the paintball out and it doesnt come out no matter how hard you flick the barrel, the bore is too small. But if you flick the barrel and the paintball comes out with a little resistance (but not much), that is the correct bore.

[Schecter1277]

waaaait...the point of a barrel kit is to take care of fluctuating paint conditions, so it wont end your accuracy in a heartbeat, overboring will :rolleyes: Also, if you know how to take care of your paint your paint wont change. Good paint care includes: flipping the box every couple of days, when you go play you dont LEAVE IT IN THE CAR, you close off the hole with a twist tie or something like that, and to avoid hot conditions by getting one of those blue freeze packs and a small ice chest and putting your paint in the bag in there to keep it nice and cool without condensation your paint will not fluctuate.
edit:
A good rule of thumb for getting the right bore of a barrel: If you put a paintball in it and the paintball rolls out, your bore is too big. If you put it in and you try to flick the paintball out and it doesnt come out no matter how hard you flick the barrel, the bore is too small. But if you flick the barrel and the paintball comes out with a little resistance (but not much), that is the correct bore.

I live in florida, keeping paint cool without condensation is impossible.
A .693 CP barrel gives me shots that are ball on ball the same as a barrel kit. The advantage is it only cost me $50 and I don't have to mess with inserts.
I've got experience with overboreing and barrel kits, since you clearly don't, you should humbly excuse yourself from the conversation because your assumptions and vaccuous points have no sway in this conversation.

Yeah, having seen the wild accuracy problems of a HUGE overbore, I'll have to respectfully disagree.

A kit is paying 2-3 times for good accuracy in ALL conditions. A single bore barrel of .693 may be slightly more accurate than a kit with a .693, but what do you do when your paint is running at .680? With a kit you adjust the back and maintain your accuracy. With a single bore you are short on luck (and accuracy).

I've used evil premium with my barrel and had NO accuracy problems. Again, I am not saying that a kit isn't accurate, they are. But for the budget baller, paying $100-150 isn't an option. It also saves you the trouble of going through inserts when you're using two cases a day. You just screw it on and go.
As for as a barrel kit with an overbore, that isn't what I'm talking about. You want a one piece with a small amount of porting. I found the CP works best.

[Lenny17]

I've used evil premium with my barrel and had NO accuracy problems. Again, I am not saying that a kit isn't accurate, they are. But for the budget baller, paying $100-150 isn't an option. It also saves you the trouble of going through inserts when you're using two cases a day. You just screw it on and go.
As for as a barrel kit with an overbore, that isn't what I'm talking about. You want a one piece with a small amount of porting. I found the CP works best.
I'm not exactly sure how you can consider yourself a budget baller when you are going through two cases of $50+ paint in a day. For me, Premiums are a splurge, and that is only if I am playing pump and shooting 500 rounds in a day.

I usually spend $30 a case on paint, and at that price point the size can vary from case to case, which makes the kit very useful. Also, with the $20 a case I am saving, I have more than paid for the extra $50 my kit cost. And it doesn't exactly take that much time to size a kit. I spend maybe 5 minutes top finding the right back, and then I screw it on and go. It isn't like you need to resize your barrel every 5 games.

The other nice thing about a kit (really what sold me on it) is the ability to match any paint out there. You might always be using a single brand of paint, but I'm not, I'm at the mercy of whatever my field has. If I have a barrel that shoots Premiums perfectly, that's great as long as I can get them. But if I show up and all they have are Marbs (a very small paint) then I am in trouble with a .693 barrel.

[inuyasharox4776]

I live in florida, keeping paint cool without condensation is impossible.
A .693 CP barrel gives me shots that are ball on ball the same as a barrel kit. The advantage is it only cost me $50 and I don't have to mess with inserts.
I've got experience with overboreing and barrel kits, since you clearly don't, you should humbly excuse yourself from the conversation because your assumptions and vaccuous points have no sway in this conversation.uhhhhhh...I just sold my old GZ Intimidator with a 3 piece barrel kit. Nice way to make yourself look like a total jackwad. Also, Ive had overbores before and all it ever did was make me break paint, accuracy, and air consumption (I did this when I still had my classic Matrix). Once I got a Stiffi and used brands of paint that was equal to the bore of my barrel (I used mostly Proto Darts), I didnt chop a ball, air consumption was minimal, and my velocity was +-2.
edit:
Like I said before, I had 8 years experience everywhere from a dirt cheap Vl Orion from Walmart to Intimidators.

[NickMoore04]

hehehe budget paintballer that shoots $100 of paint a day... that's one hell of a budget you have there...

A slightly larger bore closer to the medium size is a good place to shoot for if you absolutely cannot afford a barrel kit. I also don't know how you can say(whoever said it... im tired and forget) that your ball never touches the sides of the barrel... you do know if it doesn't touch the air will just go around it and the ball will fall out right? It is literally impossible for the ball not to touch the barrel.

The thing is a small bore means the ball requires way too much air to get it out of the end of the barrel and when it does come out you will be shooting faster than you should be because of the force it requires to get the ball moving... odds are you will break a lot of balls if they are brittle... A large bore causes you to lose too much air as well as kills your accuracy... it is a good idea to keep the bore almost dead on so a .689 is probably your best bet for barrel size... also keep in mind that a spyder or something along those sorts will have less issues than a cocker with incorrect bore size... if you have a cocker you HAVE to have a good bore match or else you look like a fool with your balls rolling out of your barrel in a firefight...

Try to get a barrel kit... if you can't get a barrel kit get a .689 or slightly larger... like one stage up... I know there isn't much difference between .689 and .695 as far as size actually goes so yeah just shoot for that. I would really suggest skipping paintball for a week or two to afford your gun parts because it is a lot better experience when you hit what you are aiming for...

Like I said a dye xcel, smart parts teardrop, cp one piece, J&J barrels, and a few other cheap barrels are pretty good if you are on a tight budget... I believe for the best performance you should just spend more on your barrel(or any equipment for that matter) than you do on your paint to play for a week... seriously now... use your head...

[EMPaint]

It's also gonna depend somewhat on your location and the type of weather you normally get. Heat and moisture will make the paintballs expand, so you'll want more of a leeway by over boring. I'd say that a .690-.693 will give you the best performance in the most situations if you're only gonna have one barrel, although I entirely think that a barrel kit is worth it in the long run, especially if you're not playing speedball and need that first shot to be right on. And I'm NOT dissing speedball if that's what you're thinking, because its just that if you miss with the first few shots in speedball, there are 5 or 6 more after that so it doesn't really matter.

[Schecter1277]

It's also gonna depend somewhat on your location and the type of weather you normally get. Heat and moisture will make the paintballs expand, so you'll want more of a leeway by over boring. I'd say that a .690-.693 will give you the best performance in the most situations if you're only gonna have one barrel, although I entirely think that a barrel kit is worth it in the long run, especially if you're not playing speedball and need that first shot to be right on. And I'm NOT dissing speedball if that's what you're thinking, because its just that if you miss with the first few shots in speedball, there are 5 or 6 more after that so it doesn't really matter.

No you want dead on shots in speedball. People fire so much in speedball because they don't have a big target in snap shooting. If someone pops their head out they can dodge it if you begin firing as soon as you see them. So you keep a constant stream in hopes that they pop out right as a ball is coming their way.
In Xball you don't want a kit, because you have a minunet and a half to get up to the board. That includes drinking water, getting more pods and airing up your gun. If youre not on the board ready after that time, the game begins without you. You don't have time to start switching out barrels. You want one barrel that gets you dead on, and overbored .693 will give you ball on ball no matter what paint no matter the conditions. Like I said, in a tourney I shoot ultra evil or DXS gold, both are .684-.682 and have no problems.
When you fire a paintball, it warps. You're firing a plasma, when hit with 200+ psi the ball expands and warps and if it warps just right and expands and hits the side of a small bore barrel you've got a break in your barrel.
For a rec baller who doesn't have a lot of money, I would suggest the overboreing. I am a budget baller, I have to buy my own equipment, however I get paint for free, all I have to pay is entry. I also shoot a timmy, I don't want to be the guy who costs the team a game because my gun goes down or I can't play because my barrel is in several pieces.

[EMPaint]

I just meant that there is a tendency towards a different way of aiming while playing speedball, which tends to not rely as much on your first few shots as the entire stream of paint. In speedball you're sending enough paint through the air that it's nearly continuous, so you can move that stream just as you would a stream of water coming out of a hose.

I still agree that overboreing is the way to go, but I don't play Xball so I have a fair amount of time between games. Maybe its just my own personal preference, but I prefer the barrel kits because I like to have the best fit to my current paintballs. Although I have to say that sometimes I just want to not have to worry about it, but there's a balance somewhere between one piece and constantly changing your two piece around, which you shouldn't have to do anyways if you did it correctly in the first place.

Edit: I might also add that since I mostly use a cocker, which is closed bolt and has the paintball already in the barrel before firing that it's not really the greatest idea for me to overbore too much because the ball will just roll out the barrel.

[Schecter1277]

I just meant that there is a tendency towards a different way of aiming while playing speedball, which tends to not rely as much on your first few shots as the entire stream of paint. In speedball you're sending enough paint through the air that it's nearly continuous, so you can move that stream just as you would a stream of water coming out of a hose.

I still agree that overboreing is the way to go, but I don't play Xball so I have a fair amount of time between games. Maybe its just my own personal preference, but I prefer the barrel kits because I like to have the best fit to my current paintballs. Although I have to say that sometimes I just want to not have to worry about it, but there's a balance somewhere between one piece and constantly changing your two piece around, which you shouldn't have to do anyways if you did it correctly in the first place.

Like I've said before, if you are a rec baller or have 100-150 buring a hole in your pocket, get a barrel kit. I've had a freak and an edge kit, they work. However, if you play tourney or want a one piece, a .693 barrel would give you better results than a .689. Less breaks and better accuracy, plus it will shoot any paint without any breaks.

But like I said, I got the idea (well, they forced me to use the CP .693, because as my coach says "they work") from my coach, former coach of rendition, a team who actually made it's own private label alias.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=MFGtaCO1pv0

Also the shop owner, who I have talked with at length about overboring. He did his engineering final paper/project on overboring vs barrel kits. He played for PMI factory and also agrees that overboring works.
My whole team uses the same barrel and no matter what the gun, and even those of us who had barrel kits left them sitting at home. Overboring gives you great results without the hassel of barrel kits. It's easy and it works.

[Lenny17]

...In Xball you don't want a kit, because you have a minunet and a half to get up to the board. That includes drinking water, getting more pods and airing up your gun. If youre not on the board ready after that time, the game begins without you. You don't have time to start switching out barrels...
When you fire a paintball, it warps. You're firing a plasma, when hit with 200+ psi the ball expands and warps and if it warps just right and expands and hits the side of a small bore barrel you've got a break in your barrel.
For a rec baller who doesn't have a lot of money, I would suggest the overboreing. I am a budget baller, I have to buy my own equipment, however I get paint for free, all I have to pay is entry. I also shoot a timmy, I don't want to be the guy who costs the team a game because my gun goes down or I can't play because my barrel is in several pieces.
I don't know about the rest of the guys around here, but I'm not constantly resizing my kit. I check it at the beginning of the day, and leave it at that. It's not like I take a break for water and think "it's getting more humid, I better resize my barrel." The notion of constantly changing barrels is silly.

The fact that a paintball warps has been more or less disproven. I don't have the link off hand, but I remember seeing a video of a paintball in a clear barrel shot on a high speed camera, and it stayed perfectly round.

Also, of the backs I do have, I have yet to use a back bigger than my .688. Again, maybe as a cocker user I am more sensitive about overboring and rollouts, but if I was using your .693 CP barrel, I would be losing paint out my barrel every time I stopped firing.

[Schecter1277]

I don't know about the rest of the guys around here, but I'm not constantly resizing my kit. I check it at the beginning of the day, and leave it at that. It's not like I take a break for water and think "it's getting more humid, I better resize my barrel." The notion of constantly changing barrels is silly.

The fact that a paintball warps has been more or less disproven. I don't have the link off hand, but I remember seeing a video of a paintball in a clear barrel shot on a high speed camera, and it stayed perfectly round.

Also, of the backs I do have, I have yet to use a back bigger than my .688. Again, maybe as a cocker user I am more sensitive about overboring and rollouts, but if I was using your .693 CP barrel, I would be losing paint out my barrel every time I stopped firing.
True, but they make more guns than autocockers.
As far as this "video" I would like to see your source, otherwise it's heresay.

[Lenny17]

Here is a link to the video: http://www.mcbtv.com/media/70/Paintballs_do_not_deform_on_firing/. The paintball is fired at 850psi, chronoing at 380fps, and it does not visibly deform.

[EMPaint]

But like I said, I got the idea (well, they forced me to use the CP .693, because as my coach says "they work") from my coach, former coach of rendition, a team who actually made it's own private label alias.

This means you probably play mostly in Florida? Where its hot and humid and your paintballs will actually end up swelling to that point, but for a number of other people in different areas this might not happen, in which case there is no need to get a .693 if the largest your paintballs ever gets is .689, that extra bore amount will still give less accuracy than is possible. Which brings me once again to saying that it depends on where and in what weather you generally play in.

[inuyasharox4776]

I would be losing paint out my barrel every time I stopped firing.I'm almost positive autocockers have detents that make sure that doesnt happen, though Im not sure since I've never shot one.

Like I've said before, if you are a rec baller or have 100-150 buring a hole in your pocket, get a barrel kit. I've had a freak and an edge kit, they work. However, if you play tourney or want a one piece, a .693 barrel would give you better results than a .689. Less breaks and better accuracy, plus it will shoot any paint without any breaks.LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL


You have it totally backwards. Dude, if your "coach" is teaching you crap like that, he's just spoonfeeding you wrong facts and shouldnt call himself a coach.

[iliveforthis99]

Once the bolt locks forward the ball is in the barrel and the detent doesn't do squat at that time. So a good paint to bore match is a must for cocker users.

[EMPaint]

All the detents on the cocker really do is prevent you from double feeding.

I can guess where this thread is going to go from here, it was already on the verge of getting bad but I think it might be lost now.

[NickMoore04]

Yeah... I have played so many games where I forget that the paint I just picked up was small... so here I am in the middle of the woods... barrel down... I pull up to fire and nothing comes out... then I look like an idiot because the ball fell out of my barrel... that is when I decided a barrel kit on a cocker is a damn good idea... this thread has gone all to hell though... people are seriously arguing over .002 inches... i mean you do know that is the ONLY difference right... .002"... kinda looks stupid when you look at it that way...

[EMPaint]

Oh, but its SOOOO much more than just .002, because .693-.689=.004 and here I thought they taught math in school :crazy: :dodgy: :laugh:

[inuyasharox4776]

All the detents on the cocker really do is prevent you from double feeding.

I can guess where this thread is going to go from here, it was already on the verge of getting bad but I think it might be lost now.
this thread has been lost awhile ago.

[Schecter1277]

I'm almost positive autocockers have detents that make sure that doesnt happen, though Im not sure since I've never shot one.

LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL


You have it totally backwards. Dude, if your "coach" is teaching you crap like that, he's just spoonfeeding you wrong facts and shouldnt call himself a coach.

he has teched guns next to bob long. he has been playing paintball for 18 years and not only shot but owned as close to literally gun ever made. my boss has owns a shop for nearly a decadeand played for pmi factory team. I have personally owned quite a few guns and have been playing over 5 years and dont give into hype easly. I was wary at first but the barrel was free. after plying with it for about 3 months I can say it actually works.

to those who say the thread is lost, just because there is a disagreement doesnt make it into a flame war. if people can remain mature it won't turn out that way. the conversation is benificial and stimulating. its a forum not a "let's all agree" website. keep it mature and the thread can go well.

[inuyasharox4776]

uhhh my proshops owner played for the Oakland Assassins and has also teched guns next to bob long, its not that big of an accomplishment :rolleyes:

[Schecter1277]

uhhh my proshops owner played for the Oakland Assassins and has also teched guns next to bob long, its not that big of an accomplishment :rolleyes:

but does he have an engineering degree and wrote a final 12 page paper on a study of overboreing? try an overbored 1 piece for a while then try and argue. even if you dont understand the theory it doesnt make it untrue.
not sure how or why it works, however, personal experience has shown me it does
edit: let me also point out the bob long assisans barrel stock on almost ever timmy out there is over bored, and I believe the ego and etek comes with an over bored barrel as well

[inuyasharox4776]

but does he have an engineering degree and wrote a final 12 page paper on a study of overboreing? try an overbored 1 piece for a while then try and argue. even if you dont understand the theory it doesnt make it untrue.
not sure how or why it works, however, personal experience has shown me it does
edit: let me also point out the bob long assisans barrel stock on almost ever timmy out there is over bored, and I believe the ego and etek comes with an over bored barrel as well
I've tried overboring before...I said so earlier...






Mods should close this, its not getting anywhere.

[Schecter1277]

I've tried overboring before...I said so earlier...






Mods should close this, its not getting anywhere.

right, woe unto me for having my own opinion. we should stifle anyone who disagrees or claims the world is round right?

[EMPaint]

to those who say the thread is lost, just because there is a disagreement doesnt make it into a flame war. if people can remain mature it won't turn out that way. the conversation is benificial and stimulating. its a forum not a "let's all agree" website. keep it mature and the thread can go well.

I actually wasn't really thinking it'd turn into a flame war, just a pissing match between who knows somebody who's played longer and had more experience....... which it kind of did.

I just want to say one last thing though, the biggest problem I can see with overboreing too much is when using a longer barrel. The longer the barrel and the larger the bore, the more it's likely that the paintball will bounce around while going through the barrel and mess up your accuracy. I'm actually a mechanical engineering major, so this might be something I'll end up looking into for myself someday

[inuyasharox4776]

right, woe unto me for having my own opinion. we should stifle anyone who disagrees or claims the world is round right?
Took the words straight out of my mouth.

[Schecter1277]

I actually wasn't really thinking it'd turn into a flame war, just a pissing match between who knows somebody who's played longer and had more experience....... which it kind of did.

I just want to say one last thing though, the biggest problem I can see with overboreing too much is when using a longer barrel. The longer the barrel and the larger the bore, the more it's likely that the paintball will bounce around while going through the barrel and mess up your accuracy. I'm actually a mechanical engineering major, so this might be something I'll end up looking into for myself someday

like I stated earlier I am not sure on the finer details, all I know is my do 1 piece gives me awesome accuracy with any type of paint. from evil to pmi premium.

[Lenny17]

Considering I usually use my .685 back, we're actually talking about 0.008". Now that is a world of difference. :dodgy:

And I don't think I would say this has gone to hell - it is a very good example of personal experience going counter to conventional wisdom. We can't really just flame the guy (like we do the guy who says his 20" barrel is accurate due to length :D), he has people to back up the single bore position just as we have people to back up the kit position.

Personally, I think this is an example of the fact that there are a lot of factors that are involved with accuracy. It isn't just as simple as paint/barrel match, you also have to factor in paint quality, marker consistency, and who knows how many other seemingly minor factors.

[Schecter1277]

well said lenny.
kits work, I know this I have owned two kits and for the average paintballer kits are a good investment. however if you should decide or dont have enough money for a kit it is my experience that an over bore barrel will give you those same results. though, all I have shot is dxs bronze, silver, and ulta evil.

[EphinBoi]

go with .691,.692,.693.. i over-bore so i dont have to buy a barrel kit and i can still shoot very accurately

EDIT: ALso, as the day goes on your paint will start to deform from the heat ( depending how hot it is ) and changes shape from being packed in your pods and the hopper etc.. lol

[RickJames123]

Oh boy im definitally gonna sound like a newby but how do I know what bore from my barrel kit to use? I put a pmi premium in the .689 and the .692 and the .689 seemed a little tight and the .692 seemed to big.

[iliveforthis99]

Could you blow the ball out of the .689?

[NickMoore04]

Oh boy im definitally gonna sound like a newby but how do I know what bore from my barrel kit to use? I put a pmi premium in the .689 and the .692 and the .689 seemed a little tight and the .692 seemed to big.

if it didnt roll out of the .692 that is probly the one...

[RickJames123]

Yeah the ball would blow out of the .689. I wasnt sure if it should be a tighter or looser fit. Im really new to the sport and I dont know whats right and whats wrong.

[iliveforthis99]

If you can take the ball and blow it out yourself then that's ok, it means you have have good match. Not to tight and not big enough for it role out on it's own. When trying to find a good paint to bore match be sure to try around 5 to 8 balls or so from the bag. One ball does not speak for the whole bag per say. You probably would have been fine w/ the .692 as well.

[xJakex77]

Buy an over bore. Something like .691-.693 you want the paintball to roll out of the barrel because while your playing paintballs slowly expand and change shape having more barrel space helps reduce barrel breaks and has better accuracy.