Recocking problems

[beaver_fever]

I remember seeing a thread about a5 recocking problems, but can't remember what all it said to check and my search is not working right now.
Anyway, my egriped a5 has been having alot of recocking issues lately. It will almost recock itself and I will have to manually move the bolt the last quarter inch or so. I replaced drive spring last week to see if that would help and checked my sear and rear bolt. Played today and had to recock alot, especially when ramping to full auto.
My marker is older, came with original egrip (before WAS) and the sear and bolt are stock. They don't look worn but they're bound to be getting close. My question is, when replacing the sear do I need to have a sear for an egrip or can I use a sear from a stock trigger I have laying around? Also, do I need to replace the rear bolt as well?

[Orpackrat]

The E-Grip Sear as it just has a hole for mounting but the regular sear has an oval hole.

Oil your ASA, Hammer, and Bolt.

Check to see if your Hammer O-Rings are in good condition.

[beaver_fever]

Oring looks to be in great shape and I put oil in asa the night before the game and shot it a few times. When I removed my trigger assembly I found that my sear is the one with the oval shaped hole. It is the factory sear from tippmann that came with marker. Could that be causing the problems? If so, why now after years of flawless performance?
Guess I will be getting a new sear. Probably should go ahead and get a new spring while I'm at it.

[beaver_fever]

Found a sear with just the round hole in a buddy of mine's spare parts set. While looking for a egrip sear I noticed 4 different sear/trigger setups in 5 different egriped markers. 2 markers had egrip sear and trigger with no sear return slide, 1 had regular sear and return slide, 1 had egrip sear and return slide, and mine had regular sear and no return slide. All were working except mine.:mad:
What's the deal with the two different sears and the two different trigger slide setups? I now know the correct setup for an egrip is the e-sear and the trigger with no slide return. I now have this setup on my marker but haven't tried it yet. Why or how do the other combos work?:confused:

[BigTom21]

an a-5 e-grip trigger doesn't need the slide piece... b/c you are hitting a micro switch no the sear with the trigger...

and another thing to check when you have that problem is the ball detent... it might be in backwards... your marker could just need a cleaning... and make sure you never take your trigger frame off and grease or oil the bottom of you rear bolt... it will make it slip...

[Corrupted355]

Like Tom said, the setup is for an E-grip is supposed to be no-slot sear, no trigger slide. If you buy a marker from Tippmann that's already got an electronic trigger installed, that's how it comes.

Your buddies are basically just getting lucky that their trigger systems work.

[ftsagm]

i don't have an e-trigger but i just went through the same problems. not recocking. came on all of a sudden. sear and rear bolt did not look worn much at all. my a-5 is just over a year old as well. i looked at everything else in the gun and finally called tippmann and they sent me a new pair for free. installed them and have had zero problems. just cuz they don't look worn, doesn't mean they don't have a problem.

[MightyMace]

If the sear doesn't look warn maybe you should replacing the sear spring with a harder spring, making it snap back and lock faster.

Only an idea but it might solve your problem.

Check the lip on your rear bolt that the sear catches, i have never seen that get warn faster than the sear but anything is possible.

Another idea is make sure the slider on your trigger is in the correct possision. If it has come off the pins it will basicly hold your sear open which may be why you are getting more than one paintball fired in one trigger pull. Some idiot kids use this concept to create a full auto effect on their marker by pulling out the pins that hold the slider in place and repacing the spring in it with a pen spring, in turn ruining their marker (random little fact)

If you can see a crack in the power tube and your rear bolt is firing back enough to allow the sear to catch it has to be something to do with the trigger system.

[beaver_fever]

Alright, I put a brand new e-sear in and new oring on rear bolt but marker is still not recocking all the time. I emailed Tippmann and told them about the problem, but I failed to mention that I had already checked the powertube, so they replied and told me to check the powertube. Before I email them again about the bolt (since I've already replaced sear) I was wondering what else I could check.
Also, could this have anything to do with my rampage board? It doesn't seem logical for the board to have anything to do with my recocking problems, but I can't remember having major recocking issues until I installed the rampage.

[Coenen]

You running HPA or CO2? If it's CO2 and the weather has gotten chilly you could be starving the marker at high ROF. When you're shooting fast in cold weather CO2 may not be able to shift from liquid(in the tank) to gas(in the gun) fast enough to keep the internal pressure up and properly recock.

If you've got the marker in ramping a lot the chances of this problem manifesting in cold weather are fairly high.

[beaver_fever]

That was one of my first thoughts when it happened using co2. I now use hpa and get the same problem. I have also tried every drive spring in my kit and still no luck. I'm gonna try a new sear spring tonight or tomorrow and see if that helps. If not I guess I will get a new bolt. That will be the only thing I haven't replaced.

[BobbyDigital123]

just a random thought since it sounds like you've had the marker for some time and im not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but try and see if your bolt cycles freely by manually cocking it and releasing. Cock the marker and release it several times (degassed) and see if it slides freely along the frame only. If you notice any type of force stopping it from cycling freely you probably need to change the hammer oring. Maybe the orings swelled (not sure) and and it's rubbing against the frame.

If that is not the case and it slides freely along the frame, try disassembling your marker and push the hammer against the poppet. Is it getting stuck in there (after the sear releases the hammer it may momentarily getting stuck to the entrance of the powertube due to a swollen hammer oring)?Just random ideas.

[beaver_fever]

Bolt cycles freely when cocked and fired (ungassed). I will check the bolt to rear of powertube to see if it may be too snug.
Riddle me this, I put a new sear spring in my marker now it won't fire (sear won't release). Thought it might be a low battery causing pin not to release the sear. Tried new battery, no luck. Switched back to old spring and marker dry fires like it should. This makes me think that maybe old spring is too soft and new spring is too stiff. When I get a chance I will clip a little off the new spring until it will dry fire. Then I will check to see if helps with the recocking issue. Sooner or later I will find the flaw. Good thing it's the off season!

[Corrupted355]

Are you sure you got the right sear spring? The spring should be tinted slightly blue. If you're having trouble with it and don't know which one is the right one, swap it with the Tombstone latch spring. The Tombstone latch spring is also the correct spring for the A-5 E-grip.

The red spring is different, and will cause some annoying things to happen if placed in the sear location. That one belongs as the trigger return.

If you have a silver spring, that one is also different, and belongs inside the trigger slider. But you shouldn't have one of these installed on an E-gripped Tippmann anyway.

[beaver_fever]

The spring I used is blueish/blackish in color. I have a red spring on my trigger and no slide return. If I am not mistaken, I think the spring was originally for a 98c sear. I also have a spring from my spare a5 factory grip. Both are too stiff.