Questions about regulator, nitro, and psi on a spyder

[Zara]

I have a lot of questions and would appreciate any advice that I can get. With a regulator on a spyder, can I run both air and co2 through it? Or can I only use air? Should I get a reg? Should I get a gauge? What regulator should I get? Should I get nitro? I'm trying to get my spyder up to 300psi. If have a 48ci with 4k, How many shots am I expected to get out of this tank? I chronoed my gun and it came at 250 psi. My friends told me even for a spyder thats low. What should I do? What can I do to get my spyder to 300psi?

[Ebonclaw]

Most regulators will regulate both Co2 and air, but some "prefer" one one or the other, and a few actually ahve problems with Co2. The AA Vigilante's warrenty is voided if Co2 is run through it, though it is EXCELLENT with Air.
A reg is definatly a nice investment. Tuning your velocity is a bit simpler, your shots are more consistent, most regs double as expansion chambers, except a WHOLE lot better (try the Palmer Stabilizer). When buying a reg, go ahead and buy a gauge. It's much easier to tell the pressure and if it's too high or low, or if the gun has gas in it. Only $10. The DYE gauges are unnecessary.
I assume you mean your Spyder DOWN to 300 psi. Unless you have a "fat body" (Spyder SE) it ain't gonna happen easily. Slim strikers make it hard (but not impossible) to reach below 500. My Shutter has completely LP parts, including a drilled VA, but the gun still operates at 500. Really, LP is not the goal, it is the SIDE EFFECT of your aftermarket parts.
A 48/4500 (4000 psi tnaks are rare, if any) will net you roughly 600-800 shots. The reason LP gives you more shots is because the tank can run lower on air (down to 400 psi if you're operating pressure is 400 psi) and still recock the bolt, as opposed to a standard Spyder operating at 750. You basically increase your tank's usable pressure by 350 psi, which, if using a 114 ci, can net you over 200 extra shots. A smaller tank's pressure is used faster, so you'll only get an extra 75 shots or so out of that "extra" pressure. See, when you fill a tank to 3000 psi, it actually becomes "dry" at the gun's operating pressure. It takes a certain amount of pressure to run the gun, and if that pressure is 750, and your tank's pressure is 450, it's not going to work.

Your chrono at 250 IS low for ANY gun. Your Co2 may be cold, resulting in low velocity, you may have just gotten a fresh fill which chilled it. If the tank is room temperature, then that's not the problem. Most likely, you've got a spring problem. A spring kit will solve this, or a few adjustments with the velocity adjuster will do it if you haven't already. If you can't wait for the spring kit and your velo adjuster is maxed out (all the way in), you can stretch your mainspring, or snip a coil or two off of it. I prefer stretching it, though now I have a spring kit. Lastly, your gun may need to be oiled. Oil it, including the valve and valve o-rings.
Oh, and don't bring your gun to 300 FPS. Most people shoot 285, unless they have a REALLY nice setup, which can hold consistent FPS +/- 1 or 2. Your Spyder, without a reg or nitro will vary, sometimes as great as 20 FPS. My Spyder, with Palmer Stabilizer, and nitrogen, operates at +/-7 FPS and it cost me a LOT of money.

LMK your setup and anything you think relevant.

[Zara]

thanx. I'm wanting to be able to use both co2 and air with a reg. Would a black magic reg or a air america vigilante or a ans xgen be good for what I want to do? I'm going to pm ebay listings and see what you think of it. Anyways, heres a list of the mods done on it. I got this off ebay.
spyder classic
ACI 6 stage Expansion Chamber...
DYE 45 Double trigger grip frame...
DYE 45 Sticky Grip...
Kingman Aluminum Polished Double Trigger...
ShockTech Drop Forward Polished Aluminum...
Custom Products 14 inch Aluminum Barrel...
SPYDER deluxe Vertical adapter...
Nu-Line Chrome High Site rail...
ShockTech Quick Release Rear Cocking Venturi Bolt...
TASO Spyder Turbo Valve...
TASO Spyder turbo stem with cup seal...
Spyder Stainless Steel Striker Spring Guide...
TASO 7 Degree Bottom Line...
Spyder Aluminum Ball detent cover...
3 in 1 Low cell polished with dual O ring...
ACI steel braided hosing w/ to angle fittings...
Special Custom Milled Polished Aluminum Beaver Tail...
Spyder Thumb Velocity Adjuster Custom Polished...
Spyder Stainless Steel Slide Striker Knob...
Custom Trigger Job down to 2mm...
There's another thing to, when you put your finger on the shocktech bolt on the back, you can wiggle it about 1/8 to 1/9th of an inch. Does it matter if the bolt is loose?

[Jaster]

If you want to use both air and CO2 I would recommend a Palmer stabilizer. I tried the ANS GEN-X on my Spyder with CO2. Dumb move on my part. If you are going to do that get a remote with an expansion chamber and set it up before the CO2 gets to the gen-x. Mine REALLY did not like the CO2. The setup I had worked great on air.

[Moose]

air america or ans regs aren't the best with liquid

a stabilizer, maxflo, or sidewinder will work well with co2 or n2