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-   -   The Requested Trigger Job Info (http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1017)

TLplus84 02-06-2001 01:24 PM

WASSUp hehe yeah I finally found the time to post up all the stuff that I did to my trigger, by popular demand :D

Disclaimer: What you do is not my responsibility. Sorry i have to post this up cuz there are idiots out there..

Materials needed:
1 Hammer
1 nail
2 part epoxy
wooden dowel or metal dowel(music wire)
Dremel Tool
sandpaper
Chrome polish or Mother's mag polish
polishing bit for Dremel, or a cloth to apply/buff polish


1. Shortening trigger pull
first, take the trigger pin out of your trigger frame with a nail and hammer. make sure that the grooved sides are coming out first, or the frame will be damaged. Then, you take a piece of wire or wodden dowel if you don't have access to a metal one that will fit comfortably inside the spring. Cut roughly 9 mm of it off, and place it in your trigger spring. Reassemble the trigger, and make sure that the bolt will fire. Then, hook your air up and make sure it will fire every time. It may fire when not gassed up, but it may not fire when it is because when it is gassed up, the mechanics move a lot quicker. Trim the dowel with sandpaper accordingly till you are satisfied.

2. Lightening trigger pull
Take your trigger spring and cut maybe 1 1/2 coils off of it. OR if you are not comfortable with cutting your trigger spring, go to a local hardware store and buy a spring that is the same size, but is lighter(in recoil). IF you do decide to cut the spring, after you do, stretch the spring just a little bit, and put the spring back in with the side you just cut facing down.

3. Shortening Trigger return.
If you look at your trigger from the top view, you will see that there is a tab there to cover the trigger spring. The top part of that touches the main gun body. Take two part epoxy and put a drop on the trigger. Wait for it to dry, and afterwards attach the trigger frame to your gun. If it fires, then leave it. If it doesn't, sand a little down and try again.

This is the basic trigger job. In like 2 minutes, i'm going to go into the more advanced stuff, but i decided to post this one up first for the newbies that wanted a basic trigger job. THe next section will be polishing.

TLplus84 02-06-2001 01:39 PM

read disclaimer above please becasue this part is a little risky.

4. Polishing sear
Take your Dremel tool and a med grit sanding bit, or a med grit sandpaper and go over the top of the sear. That is the part that sticks out of your trigger frame.(the silver piece for those who don't know what a sear is :D) Stop when there is a relative shine it. THEN, take a fine grit sanding bit or fine grit sandpaper and go over the sear again. After you are done, you should have a relative shine. Then, take the polish and go over the part you sanded with the polish and the applicator till there is a haze on the sear. let it dry, then buff off. Your sear should now be ALOT smoother. Also, you only need to polish the top half part of the sear. The bottom half does not touch the striker. By the top half, i mean that when you look at the sear, it has an angle in it. That bottom part, which is kinda in your trigger frame, does not need to be polished. Also, this is any option, but you can polish the sides of the sear too.

5. beveling the sear
If you look at the sear, the sides are at a 90* angle. REMEMBER for the next step, Moderation is the key. YOu don't want to overdo it, or it will DECREASE performance. Take your dremel tool and a grinding bit or a rough grit sandpaper and go over the long sides of the sear at a 45* angle. Do it so that it is noticable,but not too much. Also, if you want to, VERY VERY VERY slowly round off the short "wall" of the sear. You will want to do it only a VERY little bit.TOO much will ruin your sear, and you will have to get a new sear. It will make your gun into a paint blender, goin full auto every time you gas it up. If you do not feel comfortable doing this, don't do it. Beveling your sear will make your trigger pull feel cleaner and crisper.
Rounding your sear (short sid) will make the pull shorter, but if done wrong, the product is disasterous, so use caution.

6. Polishing the striker
IF you look at your striker, there is black anodizing on it. The part you want to polish is the part where it "dips" in. That is the part where the striker makes contact with teh striker. Take a fine grit sanding bit and your dremel tool, or just a fine grit sandpaper, and go over that strip until the metal shows cleanly. Then, take a REALLY fine grit sandpaper and go over it again. Take your polish and applicator and apply polish to that area. After, buff off.
There is an extra part, although i will warn you that if you do this wrong, you will need a new striker. If you look at your striker, The lip that is furthest from the Oring is where the sear goes up against in the cocked position. If you bevel that part VERY slightly, it will shorten trigger pull. If you take off too much, it will have the same effects as rounding the sear too much.

That is basically what i did to my trigger so far. Actually, there is one little thing, but that's a secret :D :D :P maybe i'll tell you a little later on..but i'm getting tired of typing. hehe hope this helped you guys

TLplus84 02-06-2001 05:18 PM

don't pad the sear. That's really bad. it will degrade the perfomance. If you want to, get this spray that you use for subwoofers in car audio, it deadens ring....i forgot wat it was called but most car audio places will carry it. The scratches on y our bolt, don't worry about them..i have them too, but they don't affect performance in any way.

A damn fool 02-06-2001 05:21 PM

i know, but its really loud, thatsh the only thing u can here on my gun, so i was thinking if i polished it, it wouldnt make that noise ne more. Just an idea, ithik ill try it on the stock bolt, then if it wors, do it to my cyclone one.

OMEGAX4 11-18-2001 09:57 PM

Yippie
 
Wonderful, just wonderful. I did that trigger mod to my piranha and now i shaved off about 2-3 mm off the original pull.

PIRANHA OWNERS: another simply way to do this mod is to find something small and thin to wedge between the frame and the sear release lever. Makd it so the sear release does not fully return to its original position. If it dosent cock you over did it.

You can also increase the diameter of the pin the sear rests on. Thats the little pin that is pretty much the sear release lever. Its all one piece. I just rolled up a strip of cardboard and super glued it on the pin.

-OMEGAX4

mikek2111987 06-27-2002 08:32 PM

If anyone wants info on how to do a very simple and effective trigger job, click here.
Bassicly the same as TLplus84's. With really crappy pics though.

gary_william 08-08-2003 12:17 PM

even easier trigger mod
 
I used a black zip tie and wrapped it to the trigger guard. I pulled the trigger and when the marker fired I tightened the zip tie (behind the trigger, between the trigger and the hand grip). I then released the trigger and when the sear reset itself I toed another zip tie to the trigger guard, but this time in front of the trigger. This reduced my trigger travel to only the distance required to make the trigger activate and reset. I also used black tape to hold the zip ties in place. It works great, is non permanent, cheap, and easily removeable. No opening of the gun required, and your friends won't know you did it until you light their arses up with it.

madtomatoes 02-17-2004 07:27 PM

Hey TLplus will these mods work on a Spyder AMG LCD it still has the stock trigger frame, just making sure so i dont f*** up my gun:D

SonixShooter357 06-03-2004 03:19 PM

There are the 2 tabs on a spyder mech frame that are the trigger and the sear tabs. they touch every time you fire, which is what pivots the sear. If you dremel both those down, you can make your trigger able to have front slack if it is too tight, then eliminate the front slack with one of the other mods.

Paintballhitman 11-03-2004 08:26 AM

Trigger
 
Here all you need is two cable wall tacks that are 1/2 inch wall tacks hot glue and a cutting tool that can cut nails Remove the nails from one of the wall tack flip the one with out nails to the flat side and put it behind the trigger on the bottem where the frame and the corner of the gun meet heres a pick http://img71.exs.cx/img71/8915/PA280029.jpg
Then apply glue and your done It works well went from 4bps to 11 so it does work

VL ORION 08-14-2005 09:44 AM

does this affect the safety at all

lawace 05-08-2006 06:27 PM

There is a pretty good tutorial for spyder triggers here with good pictures:
http://acp-products.com/tutorial_mech.html

Lmneozoo 07-18-2006 08:39 PM

This morning i put the spring of a pen on the sear's pin and piece of copper wire in the triggers sping reducing the trigger pull by about 3mm and sofend the trigger pull by cutting 2 rings off the spring. These "mods" are the closest feel of an electric grip with a mechanical marker

Evil_Empire 08-01-2006 07:53 AM

I've never taken out the trigger pin/sear pins before as my gun is brand new...I'm having a lot of trouble taking them out as I am hammering as hard as possible on them and they dont even move...Is this normal? Thanks for the help.

iconoclast 08-01-2006 07:58 AM

What gun do you have? I found that on my metal frame, it was much harder to get the pins out than on a plastic frame.

Also, make sure you're hitting the pins from the correct side.

Evil_Empire 08-01-2006 08:00 AM

I have a spyder, and the frame is metal. And yes, I know I am hitting them out on the correct side. But if I keep on trying, will they eventually come out?

iconoclast 08-01-2006 08:02 AM

Yeah, it took a while for mine to come out. I guess just keep pounding at it. It took a while for me to get them back in too.

Evil_Empire 08-01-2006 08:06 AM

Did you somewhat scratch up the frame around the pin...because that is what is happening to me right now. And what did you use to get the pins out. Right now i'm using a flat ended nail and a hammer...im wondering if a mallet would be better...

iconoclast 08-01-2006 08:11 AM

I got some scratches on the frame, but nothing too deep.

As for tools, I used a small nail that fit the pin and a pretty small hammer, like ones for hanging pictures and such. I didn't want to smash up my new e-frame (I have a tendency to destroy stuff when I use a hammer).

Evil_Empire 08-01-2006 08:14 AM

Thanks a lot for the help, I appreciate it. And one last question, how long did it take you to complete everything?


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