This is all being re-done...
Redone-version, better written, more comprehensive, less confusion on tactcs.
L to Interception:
Big Game Basics/Mass Assaulting Guide
Guide to Silence
Basic Counter-Sniping Strategies
By-Passing to Objectives
Front Man Tactics for Scenario Play
Read all thr way down, there is a lot of good information posted, Rugrat's post on MTC Guidelines, etc.
Whoa, jeese, if i wanted a book I woulda read the new harry potter book:crazy: j/k Good job on typing that up dude, I think all new comers to the sport should read that, and get a good idea of what they should and shouldn't do out there playing woodsball or scenarioing (wtf does that word mean, oh well, you get it)
Sorry to hear you're leaving the sport. I too feel left out at my local speedball field, some of the newbies with angels get attention, while the other cocky guys filter me out because I can't afford the best and I use a blowback spyder. I feel I can't take it any longer practicing here. It may just be around around here, but I don't feel like traveling around the U.S to endulge myself in the more finer aspects of the sport of paintball. For now, I haven't given up, I started my job, pay is steady and enough. For now I am leaving the commercial field, and like 7 guys and I have gone out on our own, made a field on farm land (speedball, and an old farm house urban type setup). We now have even purchased both nitrogen and C02 fill tanks/stations. About every other weekend we go out on our own in the afternoon, and play for about 4 hours, which is just enough paintball for me, and I'm satisfied.
Thanks for all the work here Blacksheep. This is stickied for now until I can figure out where to put it (I might merge this into another thread)
On a side note, I too feel the problems of the kids that now play this sport, and it has changed much since I became serious just 5 years ago. It saddens me. I hope you still come back here from time to time.
Teamwork, mobility, and communication have taken a downward dive in the world of paintball. What has replaced it is a loose group of individuals who go out and "snipe" people. These may be newbies or experianced players and their style of play actually does pose a threat to the avg. player.
First off, realize the level of competition:
As you can see, a wrist watch, no gloves, poor ghillie suit, and a long, shiny barrel. This lack of attention to detail can be used to your benefit ONLY if the team uses attention to detail.
My suggested gear is as fallows for a 3-man "counter-sniper" team:
- Point: LAW rocket with some sort of high-noise generating marker.
- Slack: Matrix or similar quiet gun.
- Rear: 98/Flatline mounted with a 3x scope.
That is again, only suggested.
Anyway, first, ghillie suits are generally not matted with proper natural camouflage, if any at all. Look for tree branches on the ground. Also note a large "lump" or odd shadow that may indicate a "sniper".
9/10 the snipers will not carry a 2-way radio so they are isolated. That doesn't mean get sloppy, because 1/10 will have them, just keep your wits about you.
Most snipers will not take the hard, muddy, nasty road, rather, the easy road as many players use. Some good places to look for them are near fallen logs or isolated cover with good fields of view and firing lanes. Most will be there.
Movement-to-contact, if you spot something, use your loudest marker to do RECON BY FIRE. This may scare them into moving or returning fire. In that case, you suppress the enemy sniper and manuver in on him or use the LAW to teach a lesson, 25 balls smacking you across your body will teach a quick lesson.
Listen for a dragging noise and look for snail trails, where leaves or mud have been displaced and dragged. This is because most of them cannot crawl properly. Also looks for burlap or broken vedgetation that looks like it has been torn. Optics flashing is another giveaway.
Use teamwork, communication, and mobility and you are sure to defeat the "snipers".
Ever see the movie We Were Soldiers? Remember when the troops are given the order to open up for a few shots at anything that looks strange?
This is to cause the enemy to either move or return fire, 9/10 players will return fire.
Say that you spot a shadowy area. Take your loudest market and put a few rounds into that position. This doesn't mean spraying down the bush, but in areas that you think you see the enemy in.
Another way to find the enemy by fire is to cease fire and listen in to get an idea of where the enemy shots are coming from. Often times, I will need to control the fire of my teammates because the fire of the enemy is melded or over-powered by the sounds of their own markers returning fire.
Hopefully you will learn NOT to return fire and to use this tactic effectivly.
Thought I might add to your thread, if you don’t mind.
Movement to Contact- First off, what is movement to contact? It is the movement tactics you use to close with and engage the opposite team. How does this differ from patrolling? Patrolling formations like a column formations (aka Nut-to-Butt) or traveling formations (aka wedge) are good for a leader to keep control and direction of the unit but they restrict the unit’s firepower if contact is made.
Now we are on the same page here are a few helping hints to make your plying more successful, even if your playing on a Walk-On team.
· “Monkey-see, Monkey-Do”. Other players will fallow your lead, so lead by example. Those that don’t will catch on after they get shot out early a few times.
· “Spread Out”. Form a line with about 10-20 feet between players.
· “Slow and Steady”. Your not playing speed ball, take your time. You’ll make contact soon enough anyway so make contact on your terms and keep a sharp look out.
· “Take a Knee”. Every 20 feet or so stop, take a knee, look and listen. Don’t be afraid to stop the team if you think you hear something.
· “Stagger Your Team”. Try not to have everybody advancing at once. Take a knee early, when the man on your left and right take knee, move up.
· “Look Left, Look Right”. Every 3-4 seconds look to man on your left and right. Have they barreled up? Is everything ok? Do they her something and want the team to stop?
· “Keep Ready”. Have your marker at your shoulder at a 45* angle but keep your finger off the trigger.
So what do you do if you hear or see something?
1. Determine how much danger your in. Basically do you have to shoot now or get shot or do you have a few seconds?
3. “Barrel Up”. Raise your barrel up and put it on the target or where the noise is coming from. This tells every one on your team “TROUBLE OVER THERE!” and gives a direction.
4. Take cover. Crouch down behind that bush, or tree. The longer it takes them to detect you the better you’ll do in the up coming fight.
5. “Sucker Them In”. This is the hardest part; the closer they get the more of them you will shoot out when your team engages but the greater the odds your team will be detected. My rule of thumb is don’t shoot unless you’re sure they have seen you (they barrel up, try for cover, or look you in the eye), or somebody else shoots.
6. “Hit them and hit them Hard”, you guys know how to do this one already.
7. If they walk by but they are out of range. Attack them from behind. After they have past by.
Great tactics Blacksheep. I just thought i might add to your one about ambush.
*The art of Ambush*
To put it simply, an ambush is a surprise attack on an enemy formation with the intention of destroying it. It combines maximum fire power with minimum time, and does not require the attacking force to gain or hold territory. Afterwards the attacking force makes a rapid withdrawl. During the actual ambush each attacking "soldier" is usually given his own arc of fire, which overlaps with other arcs of fire to ensure there are no gaps. The rate of fire is high and directed at all enemy personel- no one gets out alive. The key to a successful ambush is shock action: a quick kill followed by a speedy withdrawl. The action should be over within to minutes maximum, though usually is over in less than 30 seconds.
The withdrawl is important to the success of the ambush, as enemy reinforcements may be closing fast. To this end, guides are often posted at points behind the ambush site to show the ambushers towards saftey (especially at night). The most effective type of operation is the deliberate ambush, where prior intelligence has allowed the ambushers to plan thier actions. With knowledge concerning size, composition, and organization of an enemy force together with the time it will arrive at the ambush site , an ambush party can plan a successful attack. An ambush without prior intelligence, such as where an enemy force has just been spotted, is usually termed an ambush of opportunity.
The actual ambushing force is made up of three parts: the command element, the assault element and the security element. The command element usually comprises the commander and radio operators(if any). The assault element has a task of destroying the enemy in the acctual ambush and is composed of assault teams, support teams, and special task teams.
The assault team springs the ambush, with the support teams providing back-up usually with automatic fire and/or grenades/mortars and they stop the enemy personel from escaping the killing zone. The job of the special task teams is to take out lay mines(if available) and take out sentries.
The security elemnt does just that, provide security. It covers all areas of approach that the enemy might use to reinforce the ambushed party, and it also covers the withdrawl of the ambushers and acts as a rearguard. It may also cover possible withdrawl routes for enemy forces who have managed to escape the killing zone. In many ways the security element is one of the most important parts of the operation, for it protects the vulnerable flanks of the ambushing force. Security around the ambush site must be maintained at all times until the moment when the ambush is sprung
-The ambush site-
The site should have most of the following atributes to make an ideal location for an ambush: it should channel the target, it should have good fields of fire, it should have good cover for the ambushing party, there should be natural obsticals to hinder the ambushed from escaping, and it should have concealed approach and withdrawl routes. Natural obstacles such as cliffs, streams and embankments will force the enemy to slow down and can more easily be eliminated.
For the assault element, firing positions should have a thin screen of foilage in front for concealment purposes, and the entire killing zone should be covered by fire to prevent any dead space. It is very important that automatic guns are placed to ensure that their left and right arcs of fire are fixed to safeguard against hitting any friendly personel, paticularly in flank elements. The automatic guns are usually placed in the middle of the assualt element so they can cover the entire killing zone with fire. Once the ambushers are in place, it is essential to maintain noise discipline, which involves keeping movement to a minimum.
The flank elements play an intergral part in springing the ambush, for it is they who communicate the presence of the enemy. But it is not they who signal for firing to begin, only the commander can decide that. The ambush should only should not take place if less than 90 percent of the enemy is in the killing zone, because 10 percent of an enemy force is reckoned to give him too much freedom to outflank the ambush party and mount a successful counter-ambush.
-Springing the ambush-
When it comes to actaully springing the ambush, nothing other than a gun or explosive(grenade or mine) should be used. i.e. something that will inflict casualties on the enemy. Anything else, such as a wistle, will give the enemy time to react. At this signal the assault elements will remove thier saftey catches and open fire. (safteys should me kept on till last minute to avoid accidental firing.) Each member of the assault element will fire into predesignated areas to ensure the enemy is enveloped in fire. The actaul firing should be done at close range to ensure maximum damage is inflicted. Grenades should also be used to increase overall saturation of the target.
The commander will bring the ambush to an end for three reasons: 1) all the emeny has been eliminated. 2) The enemy has been mauled and is retreating. 3) The ambush has been unsuccessful. The ambush site should be evacuated quickly as the noise generated has probably alerted enemy reinforcements. This is done in stages, with the assualt element pulling out first and the security element covering. The entire force will follow and provide rear security.
I found this off of a site:
BEGINNERS MOST COMMON MISTAKES...
A. Wrong positions
A beginners first concern is usually to protect themselves rather than being a threat to their opponents. They choose the thickest bush or the deepest hole available and settle down right in the middle of it. They don't see anything and are unable to provide information or cover fire. But they think they're in a great ambush position.
Those who go further go too far and have to dive behind a tree falling all over its roots. They don't shoot back to improve their situation, nor ask for help. And when hit, they'll wait for the incoming paint to stop pouring before they stand up and walk away, which means they'll get out wearing two or three layers of bright colors.
Choose your first shelter before the game starts. A good shelter is one that will provide you with reasonable cover, while still allowing you to look and shoot around. You must be within range of your opponents, but not too close so you can still move behind your tree/barricade. If the shelter you're behind is so small that you can't stick your head out, make sure you'll have a teammate behind you to pin down your opponents at times, so you'll have openings.
B. They can't look
Usually, if you see your opponent before he spots you, you've won. Beginners think that if they stick their head out, they'll be an easy target, so they never look around. Those who decide to use their eyes focus them in one single direction. To concentrate on such a wide area, they close their ears to all noises, especially those coming from their sides.
Don't be afraid to look around. You need as much information as you can get. Of course your head will be a target, so look by the side of your barricade rather than above the top of it. If you decide to look above the top, don't do it for more than one or two seconds. It'll take that long for your opponents to: 1-spot you, 2-aim at you, 3-shoot at you and have the paint travel.
C. They Don't Move!
They don't move enough. If you're not useful where you are, don't stay there. For instance, deciding to stay behind to "protect" your base is ALWAYS a mistake: if the rest of your team breaks through, it means they would have done better with you among them and anyway, there are no opponents left to protect your station against. If the rest of your team gets beaten, it means they'd have done better with you among them, and when your opponents arrive to your base, boy will you feel alone... Another example. Look at a newbie who's being shot at. He's trying to make himself as flat as possible. As flat and useless as a flat tire. :)
When you're in a position where you are easily pinned down, with no close help at hand, there are only three things you should think of doing:
Going away as fast as possible
Yelling for help and indicating your opponent's location. Yes yell! if they're shooting at you, it means they've spotted you, so don't be affraid to give your position away.
Another wrong -or lack of- move. When a beginner spots you, he focuses on you and becomes blind and deaf to anything else. Most of the time, he won't even imagine that you, sly as you are, have moved to a place where you'll shoot from a different angle.
When you are spotted (when you shoot at someone, you usually are), be prepared to move so your opponent won't know where you are or from where your next shot will come.
D. Not enough Communication!
Beginners very seldom talk too much. Most of the time, a beginner who talks is a) drunk b) in the dead zone. A beginner keeps his problems to himself (he doesn't ask for help when needed) and doesn't brag about his knowledge (he doesn't tell you about the opponents he's spotted).
The only good reason to be quiet is to remain stealthy. But once you're spotted, there's no reason not to scream and yell. You'll get the help you need, and give your teammates the information they need to kick in. Only exception: be careful when asking for paint, unless you want it in your face!
E. They don't shoot
Usually, beginners are very accurate and seldom miss a player who's 10 feet away, especially if he is on the same team (told you, they can't look). They imagine that a marker is a gun, and try to nail targets 100 yards away (thus giving away their position). They shoot too soon, and at everything that moves. The opponent who doesn't shoot (yet) will know where to find them (they never move), and will pick them out when wanted.
If you haven't been spotted, your first shot must take your target out. Wait until the flight path is clear, or until the opponent sees you. Be patient, especially when you're defending.
The price of paint being what it is, they think that a ball that doesn't end on an opponent's camouflage is lost, so they never provide cover or intimidating fire.
Sometimes, you have to shoot at opponents you can't see. To help a teammate out of a situation, to make an opponent nervous behind his tree, to keep his head down while one of your teammates is closing in on him, to make noise to distract their attention... Some teams share the cost of paint because they know that front players (who use less paint) can only play if someone behind them throws paint, but you need a team to do so.
Beginners make such mistakes because they're afraid of paint. So remember: it's just a game. There are no "kills". There's always another game. Feel dangerous. You have a marker, you have paint and gas? You ARE dangerous. Experiment. Try new moves. Increase your experience. Try out the moves that have "panache", that are fun. You play paintball to have fun, don't you?
another thing i notice that they tend to do is get jumpy and shoot to early and give away thier position.
I noticed no one tackled stealth, here are some thoughts on it, There is only one thing noisier than a bear in the woods, and that’s man. Just like shooting, and communications stealth must be practiced and learned. You have factors that contribute to stealth. Choice of path, speed of movement, even the clothing you wear, and equipment you carry.
Paths, people will follow a trail or road, its easy, and quick, this is also the obvious, and at some point will be defended. Getting off the beaten path, and moving in the bushes will be harder to travel, but provide you with a measure of security. Don’t climb over logs, these often have loose bark, or will break under your weight, go around them. Should you have that classic gurgling brook, remember it’s a trade off. It covers your noise, but also covers theirs too. I really don’t recommend the Seal thing, of wading down streams. First, you muddy the water, and some one spots it, you’re had. Do you really want to be wet all day? Last but not least, is that paintballs do not react well to becoming wet. dont walk the ridge line, stay below it. if you have to cross the ridge line, crawl over it.
Speed, You have two enemies when you are trying to avoid detection, one is noise, and the second is sudden movements. Noise provides a direction to look, but movement attracts the eye. When moving and trying to be stealthy try not to walk on your heels first, but with a ¾ normal stride, put the ball of your foot down first, this is unnatural, but it will force you to slow down, this also tests the ground you are preparing to walk on, so you reduce your noise by minimizing the noise from leaves, and sticks, that may give you away. Freeze when you think some one may spot you, and you may still go unnoticed. The human eye is attracted to movement. Should you remain still, you could be overlooked.
Clothing, fabric makes noise, when you rub against bushes, or limbs. Cotton is worlds better than nylon when you are trying to be quite. Natural colors are a must, when is the last time you seen a tree turn florescent blue in the fall? Your pods, and other accessories are going to make some noise as well, hanging up on brush, or rattling as you move. Consider putting foam between pods so they don’t bounce together. Keep the pods full, only reload when a full tube will be used.
Some good stuff here!
The ambush section is almost verbatim from my US Army Guerrilla Ops manual!!
As for stealth, I have a little to add.
It has been said, but movement is the single greatest giveaway. The greatest camouflage methods in the world won't do jack if you are moving. I usually plan my routes of movement, pre-planning where I will move before I take a step, then using short, furtive and quiet, moves from concealment to concealment. When walking, step softly on the outside heel of your foot and roll it forward.
Avoid patches of sun, they are like highlighters.
Hide in not-so-obvious places, like even out in the open, but with stuff in between you and any targets.
Even when you are shot at, you can try not moving. If it appears that the opposing player is just testing for you, using "recon by fire", sometimes you can not shoot back and remain still, and they will think it was nothing and pass you by.
As for gear, hoppers rattle atrociously, keep them full (or play Stock Class like me:).
Man-made stuff also has textures and geometric shapes that are not consistent with natural backgrounds. Try to cover shiny surfaces and break up straight lines! Sun glinting off equipment is a dead giveaway.
Cover your skin, too, with camo paint or gloves!
As for camouflage, try to match it to the local backgrounds. There are loads of patterns available on the surplus and hunting markets, and some are better than others for certain areas. Take a good look at local flora and soil to match the best pattern.
A bit on types and patterns I have run into:
Active types. These aren't meant to look like anything in particular, but are "compromise" patterns that are good in many areas but excell at none. They work by trying to match at least one color with the background, tricking the eye into passing over them. Types I use:
US Woodland: This pattern is very common, and decent for many areas. I find it to be somewhat too dark for many areas, although it is effective in almost all.
British/ Dutch DPM: Standing for Disruptive Pattern Material, this is brighter and has thinner, longer "blobs" than US Woodland. I find it to be a little more effective in sunny/bright areas. It used to be dirt cheap, too. I wear it all the time in summer games.
German Flectarn: My favorite type, this stuff consists of flecks of different colors. It is great for dark, forest floor areas and is even more effective in the fall. It does not have much light green, but is very good for blending with fallen leaves and treebark. Its also as low as 89 cents right now, and is the best quality of any types I wear.
Passive types: "realtree", "mossy oak", etc. These patterns are available because of hunter's preference for them. They are passive, meaning that they try to make you look exactly like your background in order to avoid detection. They pretty much have a "picture" printed on them! They can be extremely effective, but are very dependent on the background they are used with.
Camo tape, burlap, scraps of dun-colered cloth, etc. can be very helpful in concealing markers and equipment. Again, try to match it with the background. Ghillie suits are not necessary, but some stuff to conceal your equipment is very useful without becoming awkward.
In looking for other players, don't look for the whole person. Keep your eyes tuned to movement and unnatural anomalies. Look for feet, arms, guns, goggles, hands, etc. instead of the whole person, as you usually will not see the entire person.
Finally, patience and adaptability are paramount!
Paintball Strategy & Tactics
When we were taught strategy and tactics at the USMC Officer’s Training Course (also known as “The Basic School” in Quantico, Virginia) there was an emphasis on small units. Small is defined as anything less than a division of infantry! Therefore all paintball teams should be considered small units.
In the “small unit encounters” typical of paintball games there are really only two practical types of attacks that should be considered. The most obvious is the “frontal assault”. The frontal assault is exactly what it sounds like. The entire unit attacks the enemy in a skirmish line, or by a “fire and maneuver” procedure which attempts to achieve its objective by intermittent accurate firepower directed at the target as the attackers advance, hit cover, and then advance again.
THE FRONTAL ASSAULT
The main disadvantage to the frontal assault is that it exposes the attackers to concentrated fire from what is usually a well defended position. High casualties are almost inevitable. If a “skirmish line” is used, all of the attackers are exposed to the fire from the defending forces without benefit of cover, and if “fire and maneuver” (fire, hit the deck or find cover, repeat) is the tactic, only part of the attacking unit will be able to fire accurately at any given time to suppress the defenders fire. Also, if the units are about the same size, the defenders will concentrate their paintball fire on the visible attackers, and quite possibly neutralize their efforts. Frontal assaults have decreased in importance since the mid-nineteenth century, due to the high casualties they usually create in the assault force. In fact most competent military commanders will not even attempt them without at least a three to one advantage in numbers.
An interesting result of Napoleon Bonaparte’s preference for the frontal assault is still evident today. To maximize the “shock and awe” of his frontline infantry, Napoleon directed his government to draft the tallest, biggest men in France into his army to be used as “shock troops” in the foremost line of his attacking forces. You have probably seen movies of the “upright, marching into battle in a straight line in gaudy uniforms” tactics employed before repeating weapons were invented. It was a bloody meat grinder then, and it is much worse now. After so many of the Emperor’s campaigns, France had very few tall men left to conscript! Take a good look at any group of French tourists, or go to France and observe the average height of today’s French. If you are a 5’9” man in France, you are considered tall. Much of the “tall genes” were lost during that period. That may even explain part of the entire country’s “Napoleon Complex”.
THE SINGLE ENVELOPMENT
The preferred method of modern small unit commanders is called the “single envelopment”. Here a part of the force lays down covering or suppressive fire, while the remainder performs an “end run” into the flank of the enemy position.
Here are some advantages to the “single envelopment”. The paintballs laid down in the covering fire (back men) allows the mobile force to approach the position with a minimum exposure to enemy fire. Then the attacking force can fire into the “flanks” of their opponent, and if they overshoot or undershoot they may still hit an opponent that is lined up behind or in front of the one that they were shooting at. Also the defenders may accidentally take out one of their own if he pops up in front of them! Plus the online attackers approach only one defender at a time as they sweep through the position.
There is one complication that requires coordination to prevent the mobile force from being hit by their own covering fires. As they begin their assault they need to signal the back men to shift to the far side of the target, and as they cross the “half line” the covering fire needs to be either halted, or the back men may convert to a “sniper” type of function with well aimed single shots at specific targets.
This worked for me in Vietnam; It may also work well for you.
I.G. Nelson, former USMC Infantry Captain.
Good strategy nelson. I've found that to work as well. To spare the other people having to read all that though....
Get a few people to shoot at your opponent head on, let a few more flank your opponent, then blitzkrieg. Works every time.
Wow everyone.....great job with all the information. I'm really impressed you all covered all the ground.
The only thing i can stress some more is fear. When your on the field and your scared, everyone knows. They take advantage of the fear. Fear is just an illusion, and hiding it can win a game. Instead of being scared, try and scare someone, b/c it will make you feel better. Everyone on the field is a person with feelings, not an alien or something. IT;s just a person with a paintgun and a mask. He's just as intimidated by you as you are of him. DON'T BE AFRAID, FOR YOUR OWN SAKE.:paranoid: :cry:
i dont know what field you play at but man u must play military scens. all the time. talking about movin your team and having them stop, everyone watching to see if barrel goes up...ive never seen a team in the woods do that
VERY NICE STRATAGIES!
do u guys have any more tips/tricks/strategys on frontman players!?
im usually the "swat" team guy (yes i am noobish :rolleyes: )
but i play allot of scenerio games and such and i use a rodeo..
Typed up something quick for ya.
^awesome^ nice job and thanks, im still a bit noobish when it comes to woodsball, but i know a bit (yet im too cheap to get what i need to be more effective). I plan to be more active in woodsball now that summer's here (yay for canada). Im looking forward to using all this newfound information. Thank You ALL for everything here! look out toronto, here i come:D
I wish I could find some players in my area that believed in the radical concept of teamwork and communication. Nice to see that I'm not the only one. I know there are scenerio teams in my area RI/MA, any of you in this area and planning to go to the Fox4 scenario game in Upton MA on July 30.
could someone tell me a good way to attack and defend a base? I`m pretty good at it but there might be somthin I dont no.
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