TES Online Manual / FAQs
TES Online Manual / FAQs
Well, after reading through this forum and my TES's manual, I've decided to try and make an online one for people who need help with their TES's :D. The manual that came with the marker told me jack all :mad:, so maybe this will help some of you new owners out :wave:.
Feel free to post anything that you think should have been made more clear in the manual, and hopefully someone will be able to explain it for you. Things like how to turn off the eye, if CO2 will work with the TES, reg adjustment tips, common air leaking areas, and good/bad upgrades.
The following applies for these two posts:
When you see either UPDATED! or NEW! in RED, it indicates that it has been very recently updated. If the previous statements are in GREEN text, this means are they have been added/updated not as recently but are still fairly new.
[color=orange-red]Turning off the DOSE/Eye:[/color] Hold down the trigger for around 8 seconds.
[color=orange-red]Turning the DOSE/Eye back on:[/color] Turn your TES off then back on.
[color=orange-red]Will CO2 work with my TES?:[/color] Yes, it will essentially function, but not at its best. You'll break O-Rings, and potentially suffer freeze ups and other malfunctions associated with CO2's cold nature.
[color=orange-red]How do I adjust the reg?:[/color] Using the allen wrench provided, un-screw the large allen nut counter-clockwise to increase pressure and velocity. Turn it clockwise to decrease velocity and pressure. I had to fire the gun to see the change on the guage when I was decreasing the pressure, so don't just crank it and wait to see it on your guage. Do it slowly and fire your marker when decreasing pressure. (Thank You Ivar Nelson) UPDATED!
[color=orange-red] Is air meant to leak out the barrel when I screw on my air source?:[/color] Well, I'm not sure if its meant to, but that doesn't matter. Next time, just make sure that you cock your marker.
[color=orange-red]How good is the stock barrel?:[/color] Well, as far as stock barrels go, it's pretty decent...until you break a ball. After that you'll need a good clean to get it back up to decent accuracy. A new barrel is not a must, but it's a big performance helper. Also, the stock barrel is 11" long and has varying porting.
[color=orange-red]Is the stock trigger replaceable/removable and adjustable?:[/color] Yes, to all of it. The trigger has a small allen screw at the top (inside the trigger frame, not visible from the outside). Screw it in clockwise to reduce forward movement. Un-screw it counterclockwise to increase forward slack. I have mine set at about 0.5mm from the microswitch. I find that if it actually touches the switch, it is too hard to walk because the isn't enough room to bounce back and you end up not firing as quickly. To remove the trigger, see below.
[color=orange-red]How do I change/remove/replace the trigger?:[/color] Locate the trigger pin (right above the trigger, duh). Lay your gun down so that side with the LCD is facing DOWNWARDS. This is crucial because you don't want to break the pin and have no trigger! Now take a thin strong dull object (such an an allen key, dull nail, one of those things designed to make nails go in far without damaging the wood, etc) and place the dull end over the silver trigger pin. Hit it with a hammer, lightly at first, and the pin should slowly come out. Now remove you trigger frame form the body (i.e. unscrew the two allen screws), and pull out the stock trigger. (*) Replace your trigger with the new one and put the pin back in the same way it came out (which means the little lines on the pin should be facing up when you put it back in).
[color=orange-red]How do I reduce the side-to-side trigger movement?:[/color] Follow the steps listed directly above, but stop when you get to the (*). Once there your going to have to do a bit of experimenting. Basically, the trigger move from side to side because there is excess room on each side. This is good because it takes a lighter pull because there is less friction to deal with. But it's also bad because it makes your gun feel kind of cheap and nasty. To get rid of it, you'll have to find some kind of extra thing washer or other spacing device. Put this in between once of the sides and the trigger. [It should be like |o| where | = a side, o = the washer, and  = the trigger. The pin should go right through the middle of it all. Hope this helps.
[color=orange-red]How do I take out the bolt on my TES?:[/color] It's really easy, just uncock your marker, grasp the top cocking pin, and pull up really hard. Don't worry about breaking it, just pull hard. There's no need to unscrew it, because it uses a little ball-bearing to keep it in. To replace it, Place it back in the pin hole, and give it a tap on the top. It should go in about halfway, then move it back and forth so that it finds its way into the metal receiver in the hammer.
[color=orange-red]How do I take out the internals of my TES?:[/color] Locate the quick strip pin (#18 on the paper manual diagram) and push it out. The bolt (#5), striker (#12), main spring (#15), spring guide (#16), 'bumper' (#14) and the back plug (#17) should come out the back. Make sure to keep pressure on the back plug as all the internal contents are sprung and will shoot out the back if you let them. The quick strip pin has a sprung ball bearing to keep it in place (far better than the small flimsy, sharp, annoying pin on spyders). (Thank You Ivar Nelson) NEW!
[color=orange-red]How do I put the internals back in?:[/color] The eye will have to be turned off to replace the parts because the sear will catch the striker and stop it from going in. I just turn my gun so the barrel end faces downwards, with the striker assembly and bolt in the back, and pull the trigger a few times. The parts should glide back into place, with the exception of the back plug. Push that in, aligning the slit with the hole in the main body and replace the quick strip pin. You're done! (Thank You Ivar Nelson) NEW!
[color=orange-red]How do I take out the valve?:[/color] Ok, to start, remove all your internals (see above), take off your barrel, and remove the trigger frame from the main body (it's o.k. if it is still connected to it by the eye wire). Now remove your V/A (or Front Block #49 in manual) and the valve spring assembly. Now that you have everything disassembled, look on the bottom of the main body, and locate the brass valve screw. Using a flat head screwdriver (or a coin), screw it out counter-clockwise. Once removed, look down the lower tube in the main body and you'll see a partial blockade with only a small circle in the center un-blocked. Using a long, narrow, dull, soft object (I used a long pencil, eraser end in) push the valve out the front. This means put the pencil in the back where the back plug usually goes, and push forwards. With a bit of force, the valve should glide out. It is covered in oil, so don't handle it if possible, unless you plan on re-oiling it anyways (which is what I do, and is always a good idea). You have now removed the valve. NEW!
[color=orange-red]How do I put the valve back in?:[/color] Just slide it in where it came out, making sure that the smaller, more closed off end is facing inwards. Also be sure to align the valve's small female thread opening with the hole in the main body where the valve screw goes. Replace the valve screw (screw it in clockwise). Reassemble our marker (Insert the valve spring assembly, the V/A, all the internals and bolt, attach the trigger frame, and re-insert the barrel). NEW!
[...Continued From Above...]
[color=orange-red]My TES is leaking out of the front block and front block screw, how do I stop it?:[/color] This seems to be a very common issue with the TESs - luckily it's really easy to fix (Hooray!). Simply get a roll of teflon tape (which is available for less than $1 at your local hardware store) and wrap it around the part of the front block where the three green o-rings (the part that goes into the gun body). If this doesnt work, and/or you can hear air leaking from the front block screw (#37), try wrapping it [the screw] with teflon tape as well. This will hopefully solve your air leaking problem. NEW!
[color=orange-red]Is it ready to play with right out of the box?:[/color] Mine was :cool:. It came with the reg set at 300 psi, velocity ~285 +/- 5. But I've heard that some people have had to do quite a bit of fiddling to get it right . I guess it depends which one you get.
[color=orange-red]How many bps can it shoot?:[/color] It comes preset at 15 on semi mode, 10 on Auto, but with both you can make it go up to 20 bps (recommended).
[color=orange-red]Does it have a Full Auto mode?:[/color] No :finger:. It has an Auto mode, but this is not full auto. It simply makes the trigger more reactive/sensitive so it doesn't take as long of a pull to fire the marker. This is actually good because it makes the gun tourney legal. And besides, you can rarely use full auto anywhere besides in your backyard as a novelty.
[color=orange-red]Does it come with a battery and charger?:[/color] No, unfortunately you'll have to buy one yourself. Make sure you get a good brand like Energizer or Duracell, and not just cheapo, extra value, low performance ones because you'll notice the difference when your firing quickly.
[color=orange-red]Does it have an external recharge port like a Spyder?:[/color] No, it doesn't. But it's not really that hard to replace the battery anyways, just use a standard Phillips (+) screwdriver and unscrew 2 screws on the grip frame, take out the battery and put it in a charger.
[color=orange-red]Will my new Nitro Tank fit on the TES's [pathetic] Drop Forward?:[/color] It depends on the type of tank, but the ASA can slide back about 1/4" to accommodate for your tanks guage. My Pure Energy 68/3k fits well, but I have the ASA pulled back a bit.
[color=orange-red]Will a 20oz CO2 tank fit?:[/color] Yes, it should, but you might have to pull the ASA back a bit.
[color=orange-red]How do I adjust my velocity?:[/color] You use the regulator to adjust velocity. If you can't get it high enough, then you may have to replace the main spring with a heavier one.
[color=orange-red]What pressure does the TES run at?:[/color] Approximately 300 psi but it can go from ~200-~500 if you wanted to.
[color=orange-red]Can I replace the stock grips with Sticky Grips or other grips?:[/color] Most likely not. The TES uses a Dragun specific M92 frame, which is different than a 45 frame (which is what most stickies are for) and also different than the spyder frame (the set screws are in different places).
[color=orange-red]What type of drop forward/bottom line holes does the TES have?:[/color] It has standard inline holes. But I also has metric threads, therefore spyder screws are needed.
[color=orange-red]Does it have an adjustable feed neck?:[/color] Adjustable, no. Removable and replaceable for an adjustable feed neck, yes. It is a 2 piece design, meaning you can unscrew the top part. NOTE: The stock feed neck is fairly small and may require you to sand your hoppers feed neck (I had to with my Egg).
[color=orange-red]Just how good is the TES, should i get it over a [insert marker here]?:[/color] Well, it entirely depends on which gun, but I don't think it's out of place to say that
the TES is the best hybrid blowback out there for the price range. (check out the Evil Omen if your looking to pay a bit more but still want the simplicity of a blowback). It has an electronic eye which practically eliminates chops in the breech, and LCD grip with shot counter, timer, and battery meter. It's top-cocking, the milling is sick, it comes in a bunch of wicked fade colors, it takes many spyder parts and its generally very upgradable. The V/A (which has a guage on it stock) and the LPC are also very high flowing and look cool too. The downsides are that the clear grips are kinda ugly and wide, the thread on the ASA, reg and hose are metric (which is not the standard for paintball) which makes it hard to upgrade only the d/f or only the reg. The stock drop forward is also pretty small, but heh, it's better than nothing :goody:.
[color=orange-red]Where can I get a TES, and how much does it cost?:[/color] Well on average, a TES will run you around 230$US, but I got mine for 215$US Shipped to Canada. I don't think I'm allowed to post the site here, but if you check out my sig, there is a link there.
Mods, if I'm not allowed to do this them please tell me, and I'll be glad to change it to fix it to follow the rules...
[color=orange-red]UPGRADES:[/color] Check HERE for the most current list of upgrades and where they can be found. (Good Job schoolsukz08) NEW!
[color=orange-red]Good Upgrades:[/color] One Kit, Zenitram trigger, [soon to be] ACP Slasher for Draguns, Evlution II or Halo B, Nitro, New Barrel, New Reg and Drop (because if you switch one of them you'll have to switch the other because of the weird metric threads), Java 9.6 v Rechargeable Battery, Timmy bolts, lots more...
[color=orange-red]Bad Upgrades:[/color] Macro Line or S/S hose if you don't upgrade your reg and drop too, bad-quality/old/used 9v batteries for the frame, spyder grips - because they won't fit
TIP: When replacing your ball detent, be sure not to screw it in to tightly, for this will strip the threads and break apart the ball detent. Also, it will make it very loose in the future and may perhaps be lost.
Also, (from below) the TES can supposedly take autococker ball detents with minor adjustments [Un-Verified].
TIP: As stated below, the TES will take Intimidator bolts (with perhaps a few modifications) and the stock TES bolt pin.
TIP: TES not recocking? Check out THIS THREAD. You might find out whats wrong by reading that. NEW!
TIP: Want to mod your TES's trigger switch? Well click HERE to find out how. NEW!
TIP: Hate those ugly, clear, see-through grips on your TES and don't want to buy new ones? Well then paint the backs using THIS method. (Thank you kangaroodent) NEW!
As for the manual part, since it says nothing about adjusting modes and what everything does on the LCD screen/menu (even though its kind of obvious :dunce: ), I made a Menu Instructions Tutorial. I'm not sure if that will work, but i don't know any sites that let you host .swf files (Someone please tell me -> PM)
Please feel free to post here or PM me anything you want to add.
If this thread does well I will continue to upgrade it as often as possible.
P.S. to Calebd2 or other moderators, I doubt this will get stickied, but if for some reason it does, that would be cool. :wink2:
You covered most everything. But I can add a few.
If the ball detent breaks, you CAN use an autococker detent with minor adjustments.
The TES DOES accept intimidator bolts with minor adjustments.
TES Bolt Removal
To remove my TES bolt I just push out the Strip Pin, #18 on the paper manual diagram, and both bolt and striker parts slide right out the back. The strip pin has a nice spring/ball detent. Easier than a Spyder! Eye needs to be off to replace them so that the trigger will release the sear when the assembly goes back in.
This way is easier for me than pulling up on the bolt pin. I don't even have to remove the hopper!
anyway we can make this a sticky so it won't get deleted on lost in the pages and pages of different threads?
I've deleted some of my older posts to unclutter this thread a bit, so here is a summary of what was said in most of them:
PLEASE PLEASE POST here if you feel this is a good/helpful thread, otherwise, it will be lost in the midst of all the posts here in the M3/Pi forum. Unless this gets stickied or otherwise made known of, then it will continualy lower on the forum and eventually disapear. To end the constant reposting of common quesitons about the Dragun Empire TES, a summerization thread has to be made, and I hoped this would be it. I will keep deleting my old posts and adding new updates to the info, but it would be useless unless people read it!
I have also UPDATED some of the info and added a new FAQ about air leaks from the front block. Please read over it and if it helps you out - post about it here!
I emailed mmsspaintball__ for some help on the gas leaks between the front block and the gun body and what he said is below. The advice he gave me worked well but I have to send it back to Dragun anyway because the board on mine is messed up.
"first off, to solve your leak problem, try wrapping the area of the front
block wioth the three o-rings on it with teflon tape. it costs less than a
dollar at your local hardware store for a roll, so its not a big budget
buster. if that still doesnt work, and/or you can hear air leaking from the
front block screw (#37), try wrapping it with teflon tape as well. this will
hopefully solve your air leaking problem."
Great thread, free UPIDEEDOODAH!
So, you can't take your bolt off when the T.E.S. is cocked? I'm getting The One, it might be different, but why can't you? I can even do that on my VL Prodigy! Meh.
i never said you couldnt take out the bolt when it was cocked :laugh:, i just say to uncock it first, simply because it give you more room to get your fingers under and is therefore easier to pull out...
But you never said you COULD take it out when cocked. Or maybe I was going by that Ivar guys' advice. Thanks, anyways.
The Ugly Grip Mod!
Quick & Easy TES Drop Forward
Here is what I did. Inexpensive, functional, maybe not "perfect".
1. Buy a Java Tuc-Tite. (approx $37)
2. Buy 1 ea. 10/32 1/2" allen bolt and set screw. (<50 cents)
3. Remove the small stock Drop Forward and ASA.
4. Attach Tuc-Tite to bottom of grip with 2 original DF bolts.
5. Remove stock ASA from DF. Held on with one set screw, loosen and slide apart.
6. Attach stock DF to Tuc-Tite, facing BACKWARDS. Use 10/32 bolt in REAR keyhole of stock DF and attach to Front center threads of Tuc-Tite. Put new set screw down through Rear threads of the Tuc-Tite to prevent slippage. You can even drill a recessed detent in the top of stock DF if you like.
7. Slide the stock ASA onto the reversed DF and secure with the stock set screw.
No need to remove the regulator, or even a hose fitting! ............. :love:
The stock DF plate will extend about 1" in front of the Tuc-Tite. It doesn't bother me, but send a message if you would like a picture. It can be machined and re-anodized if you prefer.
UP- mods, lets make this one sticky.
So what kind of "minor modification" do you have to do to make a cocker detent fit the TES? >>>UP UP UP<<<
sorry i cant be of more help, and thanks for the UP.
Great Thread (UP) Maybe more will see it now :bouncy:
i was wondering how stop the small leak down the barrel, would i have to get a new valve, or will i just have to deal with it
when does it leak? when its cocked? or uncocked? if its when its uncocked, this is probalby because your valve spring is worn or weaker then its supposed to be, and therefore the force of the main spring pushes the valve pin and open the valve, just slightly, thus air leaks.
if not, tell me some more details and i'll try my best to help out.
ok it was leaking when it wasn't cocked thats the problem then ok thanx how many things do i need to replace on this thing ive done the main spring all the o-rings the gauge gezz
wellif thats the rpblem, then the simplest way to fix it would be to just cock your gun before you attach your air source, thats what I do. replacing the valve spring might stop the leaking, but it would probably also inhibit the amount of air flow and cause volecity lowerage.
How do you adjust the sear?
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