internals faq
 

this is the faq thread for internals.

Bolts
Hammers
Valves
Springs
IVG's
Jam Nuts

Introduction to Bolts (feel free to add)
 

Many people find bolts to be an important upgrade to their cocker, and they are. After market bolts can contribute to your cocker in many different ways such as lowering the cocking mass (with the newer delrin bolts) and even preventing chopping all together (JAM bolts). Also, certain bolts are made better than others, using the same input pressure and giving a higher FPS output.

One of the most common myths about bolts are the different types of faces they have. Many people in the past believed that the venturi head would be "softer" on paint because of the porting it had. In reality, all this does is reduce the air flow. Open faced bolts are much better and more common these days.

Some people also believe that bolts increase range and accuracy. This is not true. The only things bolts can do are lower kick and increase efficiency. -spyderman

IVG

What's an IVG?

The IVG is the velocity adjuster. (usually brass and goldish color) The IVG is in the lower hole infront of the back block. You adjust the velocity by unscrewing the cocking rod and putting a 3/16 allen wrench in hex hole. Screwing it in raises velocity & unscrewing it lowers velocity. Screwing the IVG in to far can damage the spring and valve. It can also result in the marker not functioning at all.

What kind of IVG should I buy as an upgrade?

There really aren't any performance advantages to a new IVG. The only real reason you should upgrade the IVG is to make setting the velocity much easier. The Rex Dialer Kit is by far the most popular IVG that allows setting the velocity without removing the cocking rod.

-grammar/additions by spyderman

IVG stands for Internal Velosity Govoner.

OK. I have once , I think, screwed in the IVG on my 'cocker pump too much, and it wasn't working. Then after i fixed it, everytime i cock it and shoot it you could hear the internal spring everytime. It wasn't like this before.Is there a problem here?

The spring may not be seated correctly in the back of the hammer or the face of the IVG. Alternatively, you may have screwed the IVG too far out so that the spring is not being held between the two parts, and is able to move around more than it should. Another possibility is that the spring was damaged when you over wound it. Or it could just be that the spring happens to be under a tension where it is able to resonate.

Check that the spring isn't damaged (inconsistent distances between the coils for instance, not straight, etc.) and make sure that it is installed correctly.

I just got a karnivor on ebay and it works great but i want to know how to clean it properly and adjust the velocity. Please PM me with an answer. Thanks.

Please read the stickies on how to clean and adjust the velocity on a 'Cocker.

Lubricating: 1 drop of Gold Cup in the VA. Then dry fire 30 times with the barrel off a rag covering the breech.

Velocity: Adjust the pressure via inline regulator using a hex key that fits into the bottom of the regulator.

If you cannot get the required velocity by adjusting the pressure alone, you can also adjust the internal IVG by pulling the back block open and turning the IVG (with a tool that should have been supplied with the marker).

I started my IVG at about 1cm in, not flush with the body (incase I need to turn down) right now it is after the beaver tale hole with madmans blue valve spring and green hammer spring. what would you say the limit to how far in the IVG should be?

Have you sweet spotted the regulator pressure?

the IVG is right behind the beavertale hole AFTER the reg was sweet spotted

If you now have the velocity you need, then I wouldn't worry about it. Some people have their IVG screwed as much as half way in.

My trigger on my 97 autococker is sticking

As in it's not returning?

Clean your 3-way valve, the trigger and the inside of your frame. If there are any signs of wear on the trigger or frame, lightly polish them out. check that your front block isn't twisted, and that the 3-way spool and actuator rod aren't bent. If your trigger and sear springs are weak or short, you may need to replace those. Make sure that the 3-way o-rings are in good condition, and replace them if necessary. Lightly grease the top of the trigger place, and oil the o-rings, then re-assemble. If you still have some sticking, try lowering the LPR pressure.

yes the bolt is not returning and not firing sometimes when pulling the trigger should i use uziel gals solution or should i use something else