This is a joint sticky by PB_Matty and myself (TESballer). Majority of the text is written by PB_Matty, and the upgrade links by me. The links were formed around what PB_Matty and others have said since I don't own a Dragunfly. If you want me to add anything just PM.
***To see the original posts click here.
The Dragun International Empire Dragunfly is a closed bolt design marker that borrows many design and most functional aspects from the Worr Games Product Autococker in it's many versions. Most closely the Dragunfly resembles the mini-cocker line due to the fact that the vertical ASA is located on the front block of the marker.
Dragunfly's and Autocockers are both closed bolt mechanical or hybrid electro markers that can most easily be described as being at the most basic level a pump gun that takes care of the pumping for you, sometimes at speeds in the 20 ball per second range as is the case for Dragunfly LCD's and the Eblade and many other electronic framed Autocockers.
Here is an animation of an Autococker at work, but it also is the Exact same way that Dragunfly's work. Understanding how something works is necessary for being able to maintain and trouble shoot as well as fix your marker if you have problems.
Due to the fact that Autocockers and Dragunfly's function in the exact same way it is then possible to use all of the information presented in the Autococker forum for use hear as well. Please keep in mind tho that there are a very few differences in the markers (more on that later).
Here are some useful links from the Autococker mega-sticky originally authored by amzng_spyderman
Timing an Autococker and how it works
Timing Trainer Program
How to tune your Regs/velocity settings
The leak thread
Timing is an issue that often scares players off from purchasing an Autococker or similar marker, but need not be a horror story waiting to happen. The Dragunfly is shipped from the factory pre-timed so it should be ready to go from the moment you pick it up, If that is the case (which it seems to be most of the time) you won't have to worry about any timing issues unless you yourself un-time the marker.
There is a common misconception that leads people to believe that somehow their marker can somehow "magically" become un-timed. I've had one Dragunfly MECH and an Ebladed Mini- Black Magic Autococker and NEVER had to retime either one of them despite the fact that I had them both almost all of the way apart several times.
Bottom Line----Unless you are going to basically take the whole gun apart and put it back together you won't have to worry about timing....Dragun should take care of any timing issues if you don't feel comfortable tackling them if the gun comes to you in untimed condition.
Co2 and the Dragunfly
-Co2 and the Dragunfly- Many potential Dragunfly consumers also seem to shy away from the gun due to the fact that they believe that they will have to get an expensive Nitro tank in order to use their new gun. This is not necessarily true....
The first Autocockers made were designed to run solely off Co2 as that was the only propellant available in the "old" days. Since then the overall basic design hasn't really changed that much until the advent of the electronic Autococker. In short, running a Mechanical Autococker or the Dragunfly off Co2 isn't going to damage the marker in some mysterious way. Yes, you'll break more o-rings and soft parts and your shots might not be as consistent, but you aren't going to destroy your new investment by running Co2 through it. I would however strongly suggest anti-siphoning your Co2 tank and/or using a regulator that works well with Co2 (i.e. the Palmer's Stabilizer).
For the LCD and led Dragunfly's I would be sure to go ahead and spend a little extra for HPA. The higher rates of fire achievable by these markers means that the Co2 would be going through your gun much more quickly and therefore would pose a greater threat of freezing up parts and/or experiencing shootdown. Also I wouldn't like subjecting the sensitive electronic Solenoid to the potential negative side-effects that Co2 could have on it.
Everybody who knows can tell you that a good barrel will make a huge difference in the performance of any marker. In the world of closed bolt guns the barrel also serves another important function. Due to the fact that when a closed bolt marker is at rest the bolt is forward (closed to the feed tube) the paintball in the barrel is in front of the ball detent. If however your paintballs are significantly smaller than the bore size of the barrel your paint will simply roll down the barrel. This severely handicaps your snap-shooting game. Therefore it is increasingly crucial to buy a barrel kit with several different bore size backs so that you are capable of ensuring that this doesn't happen.
Some suggestions- Used Freak kits are getting rather inexpensive, ACI PHAT barrel systems seem to be going for far under MSRP, and many other barrel systems are now readily available. ( A word of caution- some barrel kits have just a couple of inserts which are really large bore sizes and therefore aren't that helpful, 3A-which I'd avoid anyway, and the new Odyssey kits some to mind.
***Important- Dragunfly's take Spyder threaded barrels.
Although this technically isn't an upgrade, it is important to the performance of your marker so I'll list it here. For Mechanical markers I would go ahead and shell out the $40-50 for an Empire reloader or 12 volt revvy. Some people might not think that an electronic loader is necessary for a mechanical closed-bolt gun, but keep in mind that closed bolt guns don't feed nearly as efficiently as open-bolt guns. I had to play with my Dragunfly with a VL200 once and it just about drove me nuts.
For electronic versions a fast loader is a must, I'm a firm Evo II fan (especially for the Z-boarded version), but Halos will work well too. The LCD and led's don't have eye's like an E-blades so a fast hopper has to be fast and consistent.
Clamping feednecks aren't something that's immediately though about when upgrading a marker, but they give you the advantage of being ably to fit any type of loader without having to worry about sanding it or it being to lose. There is nothing worse than losing your hopper on the field because of a loose feedneck.
Lapco makes clamping feednecks to fit Spyder markers and I believe they will fit Dragunfly's as well...look for the one that has feet that are held in place by screws rather than the screw-on type or the screw through feet type.
Lapco Spyder Feed Neck
New Designz Spyder Clamping Low Rise Without Holes
Vaporworks Spyder Kingman Vertical Feed
Basically a bolt doesn't do much...Delrin bolts are lighter so your cocking mass is somewhat lighter so you can have a higher rate of fire and less kick. If you have a JAM bolt don't worry about any upgrade here. If you don't, get the JAM bolt. It does work quite nicely.
Dragunfly JAM Bolt
I’ve heard different stories some saying that any autococker bolt will work and only STO style bolts work, well here are some STO bolts.
AKA STO Lightning Bolt
White Wolf Airsmithing STO Blitz Bolt
I still think I heard somewhere that Dragunfly's have high flow Spyder-size valves. I'm still trying to confirm this, but if so than you could look into the MANY upgrade valves available for Spyders.
Suggestions: Maddman Rocket valve, AKA valve....
AKA Spyder Tornado Valve
Maddman Kingman Rocket Valve
32 Degrees Spyder Turbo Valve
Unfortunately if you have a Mech it seems that you are stuck with the three-way that comes with the gun. I don't see why this is a huge issue, but some people like to change them.
I think that Autococker rams and LPR's are compatible.
QEV's would also be a good upgrade for LCD's.
***All autococker cocking rods, LPR’s, and rams fit, but if you replace the ram you have to replace the coupler and the pump rod.
KAPP FAT Ram, Cocker, Black
Shocktech A/C Ram
The Dragunfly will accept any HPR. For Co2 use get the Palmer's Stabilizer. For HPA just get one that you like. The Bob Long Torpedo, WGP Black Magic, and ANS regs are all great, consistent regulators.
The hinge trigger frame by WGP will work if you want to replace your mech's frame, there are other's that may work as well with a little tweaking and or modifications.
For those who don't mind the stock frame too much but don't like the stiffness of the trigger pull, just go ahead and clip about a quarter of an inch off the trigger spring and stretch it out and then put it back in place. Also I found that WD-40ing the workings of the trigger before playing helped to smooth out the pull.
Also, I've seen Dragunfly's with Eblades on them, so it is possible....
Autococker Hinges fit.
Worrgames Autococker Hinge Trigger Frame
Dye Autococker 2Finger Hinge Trigger Frame
45 frame grips on the Mech
Autococker rams fit, but if you replace the ram you have to replace the coupler and the pump rod.
KAPP FAT Ram, Cocker, Black
Shocktech A/C Ram
Autococker hammers work.
ANS A/C Hammer Kit
Autococker Velocity screws work
KAPP Autococker Rear Vel. Adjust Screw
Autococker springs work
Some springs at Paintballgear.com here
(If you can find it PM me >TESballer)
Good work :tup:
Be sure to pm a mod to sticky it.
Nice work :tup:
Posted some more information on the eblade conversion in the original thread. http://www.pbreview.com/forums/t264808/
whats the best gun and upgrades on this page for u?
Any chance the front block screw is interchangable with WGP's? Also, can they take standard 'cocker pump kits?
The front block uses a set screw in the bottom of the body, in the same way the valve is held in.
So no, anything pertaining to the front block itself cannot be changed.
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