How to take a 'Cocker apart
This thread was left open for anyone to ask any Questions about a certain step in the guide. Any other posts will be deleted.
I'm not responsible if you break something on your 'Cocker.
Ok, so I noticed there has been a lot of threads on how to take out the valve. Today I thought to myself, "why not make a guide on how to take a 'Cocker fully apart?" Well, anyway, here's the guide.
First off, Tools I used:
Valve tool (or a modified allen key. Info on how to make one here).
3/16, 5/32, 1/8, 5/64, 3/32, and 1/16 (not shown) allen keys.
11mm, 12mm, and 1/2 wrenches.
5mm 6-point and 1/4 12-point sockets.
Ok, here's the actual guide. Sorry for the bad pics. And yes, my 'Cocker is dirty. Plus, with the flash, you see all the little faint scratches and finger prints that you don't see normally.
Get your 'Cocker setup, find a clean work area (I used the floor since I couldn't get good pics on my desk). Also, for the small parts, keep them in a area where you know you won't loose them. Or in a small bag.
Remove the barrel, hopper, and tank. Make sure there is no air in marker.
Remove the ASA on your marker.
Remove the regulator on the marker.
Remove the bolt and pin. By doing this, pull the pin out, then slide the bolt out the back.
Remove the cocking rod. You can do that by unscrewing it till you can pull it out.
Next, remove the beavertail. Do this by getting a 1/8 allen key and unscrew the screw that holds the beavertail to the body.
Now, remove the back block from the body. You do this by unscrewing the back block from the pump arm.
Step 9. (Skip if you have a mech)
Flip the body around and remove the eye cover. Use a 1/16th allen key to remove the screw that holds it to the body.
Step 10. (Skip if you have a mech)
Lift the eye out of the body.
Step 11. (Skip if you have a mech)
Now you have to remove the grips on the E-Blade. To do this, get a 5/64th hex key and remove the 6 grip screws that hold the grips to the body.
Step 12. (Skip if you have a mech)
Remove the battery by lifting up on the bottom of it.
Step 13. (Skip if you have a mech)
Now you have to remove the cocking solenoid and a eye wires from the board. It's the left (2 wires, black and red) and right (4 white) wires. Not the middle.
Step 14. Electro Only.
Now, remove the frame from the body. Do this by removing the 2 screws that holds it to the body using a 1/8th hex key. When you remove the screws, gently seperate the body from the frame. Be careful to of the wires, since the eye wire and eye cover will probably fall freely, since they aren't connected to anything.
Step 14. Mech Only.
Now, remove the frame from the body. Do this by removing the 2 screws that holds it to the body. Each screw is different. I used 1/8th allen key. Yours might be different. After you remove the screws, tilt the frame left if your looking at it from the back of the body, then slide the frame off the timing rod.
Remove the IVG. Do this by looking at the back of the body. Get a 3/16th hex key, insert and remove till it comes out of the body. Then tilt it down and the main spring will slide out.
Now lets remove the hammer. Insert a 1/8th allen key into the access hole on the top of the body. Turn it counter-clockwise, which will raise the lug. Look at the bottom of the body and watch the lug going up. Stop when it's flush with the hammer. Then slide the hammer out the back of the body.
Just a suggestion to make things a little easier when you re-assemble - count the number of turns you used to raise the hammer lug. Lower it the same number of turns when you re-assemble. Avoids having to re-time the lug - Uziel.
Remove the valve retaining screw using a 5/32 allen key.
Now we have to remove the valve. Get a valve tool, insert it into the back of the lower tube on the body, and unscrew it till the Jam nut comes out the back. The valve should slide out. If not, get a small allen key and push it out.
Now it's time to remove the pneumatics. First is the ram, pull off the hoses on the barbs on the Qev/ram. If you can't get the hoses off, heat them up with a hair dryer. If there is top hats on them, use pliers and pull the top hats off the barbs, then pull off the hoses. Then remove the Qevs if you have any. Now unscrew the ram. Depending on the pump arm, you don't have to remove it to take off the ram, in my case, I have to remove the pump arm.
Next up is the LPR. Remove the hose and the barb. To remove the barb, use plyers or a socket. I used a 5mm socket. Then unscrew the LPR. If needed, use a wrench to break the loctite if there is any. I used a 1 / 2 wrench to remove the LPR.
Step 21. Electro Only.
Now remove the cocking solenoid. Simply unscrew it.
Step 21. Mech Only.
Now remove the front screw on the collar. Then unscrew the 3-way from the body. After you do that, remove the rear screw and unscrew the collar from the timing rod. A way to remember how many threads in the collar was, count how many rotations the collar took to unscrew till it was off the rod. This will help you in not timing it again when you re-assemble.
:tup: An alternative is to measure the length of the rod, from the bend in the rod to the first collar screw for instance (or you could always make a mark on the rod so you have a defined place to measure from). Not only handy for stripping and re-assembling the marker, but it will also allow you to check the rod at intervals and make sure that it hasn't moved - Uziel
Next up is the Banjo bolt. Get a 3/16th allen key and unscrew it.
Last is the Feedneck collar and ball detent. I didn't remove the whole feedneck, since I couldn't find my strap wrench. Same thing with the vertical adaptor. I couldn't find the wratchet.
Here's a pic of the whole 'Cocker fully apart.
Everlight already has a guide on how to put a 'Cocker together, so there is no need for me to do it. Here's a link to it:
I was going to start a new thread but the first post says thie thread was left open for questions.
Question about steps 15 - 18, when is this needed? How often should this be taken apart and cleaned? What kind of oil should be used on the o-rings (normal paintball oil or grease?)
Question about 19 - 21, what is the best way to take the pump arm off? Does the length of that rod have to be measured like the timing rod?
It's needed when you install new springs on the valve and such. The valve can be oiled without taking the marker apart. Lubricant = Gold Cup.
Unscrew it from the ram shaft. You don't have to remember how far it's on because it doesn't effect timing. Although you might want to remember how many turns it took to remove the back block, although that is easy to time.
Props very nice job. take you a while to do all of this ?
I think a couple hours, which include breakdown with pics, which never turned out right, re-assembly, uploading, re-sizing, hosting, and making thread. :|
I bought a 15 degree ASA, how do I install it? Do I have to take off the trigger frame to get the actuator rod off?
Any help would be great!
Yes, you have to take off the frame. Then take off the timing rod. The guides teaches you do that. Once those are off, get a 1/4in 12-point socket and unscrew the screw that holds the vertical adaptor in place. Install new one, tighten screw down. Reinstall the timing rod and frame and your done.
Also, when unscrewing the collar from the timing rod shaft, count how many turns it took to unscrew it, so when you go to re-install it, your timing will still be in or around the same place.
Hi, i can't seem to remove my hammer. I put in the 1/8 allenkey and found the hole and all but it wont allow me to turn it and im wondering if i'll break it if i use some force on it?
The hammer lug is often Loctited in to the hammer to stop it coming loose. As such, it does initially require a lot of force to get it moving. There is a risk that you could round off the end of the Allen key if it is a loose fit, and a smaller chance that you might round off the hole in the lug (something you definitely want to avoid).
If you are concerned with the amount of force you are having to use, remove your grip frame as described above, and then hold a soldering iron against the bottom of the hammer lug. Heating the hammer lug will soften the Loctite, and should make it easier to turn the lug. Once you have adjusted the lug, and let it cool down, the Loctite will re-set if it hasn't been totally degraded by the heat.
Hey, Thanks for the help, i'll try that right away :). I just have 1 more question, i have an 04 orracle and it has a cam adjuster. I wanted to make my trigger pull shorter and so i did but when i make it shorter i am not able to pull my cocking rod back for it to cock. Basically i pull it back and it goes back to where it was. Is there a way i can fix this? Thanks any help would be great.
The cam adjuster limits how far the sear can move. By limiting the travel of the sear, it in turn limits the travel of the trigger. If the sear cannot drop far enough to allow the marker to cock, it means that the cam adjuster is set too short. You could get around this by raising the hammer lug. This would allow you to set the cam adjuster to a shorter length, but could reduce the cocking reliability - you need to find a balance between trigger length and reliability.
Thanks for the replies man, really helpful. I was just wondering though can you tell me how to take a black magic reg apart?
You need to remove the circlip at the bottom, then unscrew the pressure adjuster screw and remove it. Tap the bottom of the reg until a brass piston (which has an o-ring around the middle) falls out. On the top of the brass piston is a nylon disk. This is your reg seat seal, which should be cleaned thoroughly. Once the reg seat seal has been removed, a spring and top hat shaped o-ring retainer will fall out.
To get the piston out you will need to unscrew the top of the regulator, and then push the piston out from the bottom.
Looking inside the bottom of the reg, you should see a brass tube. This is the tail end of the piston, and also acts as the reg seat. Make sure that there are no scratches or dents in the end of the tube. If there are, they will need polishing out, or the piston may need to be replaced if they are bad. Gently pushing the bottom of the tube will allow you to remove the piston from the top of reg, giving you access to the spring stack. The last part is the piston neck o-ring (which was held in place by the top hat) which should be easy enough to remove with a tooth pick once the piston has been removed.
The internally identical Ergo: -
- middle diagram
OMG Thanks a billion :)
Ur a life saver uziel.
I have another problem and if its not too much can you help me out again? Alright so adjusted the cam adjuster and made the trigger pull as light as it can be. I raised the lug and voila the cocking rod would cock when pulled back. So i put it all back together and aired it up. All hell broke loose. The three way started leaking in the front hole and at first i think it was the tickler reg but then it was the three way for the rest of tihe time. I would pull the trigger and itq would not go back to its original position when u let go, you would have to push it back. The bolt and back block were moving back and forth though when you pulled the trigger but the cocking rod stayed still. In order for it to cock i would manually have to pull it back and when i shot it the gun was so loud i never heard it that loud before. I own an 04 orracle. Hope this is enough information. Is thereany other adjustments i need to make or is there a problem with my gun. Please give me any suggestions, thanks alot.
Ok, you say that you have made your trigger pull as light as possible - this is most likely the cause of your trigger sticking. You need some tension in the trigger in order for it to move freely.
As for the 3-way, if you are getting blasts of air as the trigger moves back and forth, rather than a continuous leak, then this is perfectly normal - the 3-way valve is just venting the used air from the ram.
It shouldn't leak constantly, whether the trigger is pulled all the way back, or is all the way forwards.
If it is constant, then there are a number of reasons that a 3-way valve may leak: -
1. Your LPR pressure may be too low.
2. The 3-way may need cleaning and/or lubricating.
3. You may need to make a slight timing adjustment.
4. The o-rings may be worn and need replacing, or they may just be a loose fit.
5. The timing rod may be moving out of alignment with the 3-way valve. This can be solved with a more right angled rod (LAPCo make a good one), with an ASA equipped with a guide screw, or by mounting a PTFE o-ring on the far side of the timing rod (if it projects out of the side of the frame). You used to also be able to get timing rod guides, but these aren't made anymore - Belsales may still have a few left.
6. The front block may be twisted, putting the 3-way out of alignment.
7. The timing rod or 3-way shaft may be bent and need replacing. Alternatively, they may just be misaligned from when they were tightened together. The LAPCo timing rod has very tight fitting threads to avoid this misalignment.
8. Your trigger pull may be adjusted to a length too short to allow the 3-way to switch fully.
I need a little more info re the cocking rod - you say the back block moved but the cocking rod stayed still. Is it that it stays cocked, or that it will not remain cocked?
I think the cocking rod remained uncocked throughout the whole time. I coked it back aired it up shot it. Then shot it again and it would not recoc but all the other stuff were moving back and forth. Thanks for the info i'll look into it more. Really i sppreciate all the help.
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