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-   -   ~Promaster- Specs, FAQ, Upgrade list and more!~ (http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391371)

supernothing76 10-29-2006 07:01 PM

~Promaster- Specs, FAQ, Upgrade list and more!~
 
PROMASTER™ Specifications:

* Low Pressure operation
* Threaded low-rise vertical feed tube
* Quick Pull pin for easy field-stripping
* On/Off Indicating LED
* Adjustable Balls Per Second
* 4-Way Adjustable Trigger
* Battery and board in grip for easy access
* Wrap-around Rubber grip panels
* Accepts standard 45 grip panels
* 12" ported barrel with Timmy threads
* Paintball Detection System
* Easy Cleaning ball detent
* Delrin Bolt
* Accepts standard duckbills and drop forwards
* Extremely low profile
*The ProMaster is available in gloss black, silver, blue, and red.

FAQ

Q: how do you operate the promaster board?

A: The ProMaster stock board is capable of 4 (four) different firing modes, each either capped at 15 BPS or uncapped.
To change firing modes, dwell, or ROF cap, you must first remove the right side clamshell grip to access the DIP switches on the board. The switches are numbered on the front side of the switch block for easy identification.
Quick reference to DIP switches:
1. Rate of Fire (ROF)
2. Mode
3. Mode
4. Dwell
Adjusting ROF:
Switch #1 is on the bottom of the board closest to the wiring harness connector, while switch #4 is on the top furthest, from the wiring harness connector. For a switch to be in the ON position the switch finger must be pushed towards the front (barrel) of the marker.
Switch #1 is used only for the ROF limits. With switch #1 in the OFF position ROF is limited to the loading speed of your hopper or unlimited. With switch #1 in the ON position your marker ROF will be capped at 15 BPS.


Q: Does the promaster come with an Asa and/or macroline?

A: no it doesn’t, you need to buy an Asa and a macroline kit

Q: How does the Promaster operate?

A: it uses a air– ram poppet design, much like a Angel, timmy, ego and cyborg

Q: Does the promaster come with a Adj or clamping feedneck, and what threads does the feed neck have?

A: No it doesn’t come with a adj feedneck. The feedneck threads are ICD/bushmaster, even though you can use Impulse/shocker feed necks its not recommended b/c you can damage your body threads. Some great feed necks can be bought here: http://www.chipleymachine.com/mm5/me...tegory_Code=FP

note: some feednecks are being advertised as Impule/Ion/ICD threads, in other words they are advertised as fitting all three. These feednecks are actually Impulse/Ion threaded, not ICD threaded, and should be avoided as such.

Q: Can the promaster use a bushmaster valve and LPR

A: yes, they are interchangeable

Feel free to add more :D
i made this b/c lotus was too lazy :dodgy:

lotus_esprit5 10-30-2006 07:18 AM

hehe yeah I am, thanks man. I'll have this stickied in the ultimate FAQ. I'll edit this post with more info lata, maybe tonight. Here's a little bit for now.
Q: What are the different firing modes on the Promaster?

A: Semi-auto, normal ramping, NXL style ramping (full auto) and PSP ramping (three-shot burst).

Q: What does dwell mean?

A: It is the amount of time the solenoid keeps the ram in the forward position when firing. Higher dwell causes more air to be used per shot, incresing velocity but decreasing efficiency. It is recommended that you keep your dwell at its stock setting unless you upgrade your PM with a new valve or ram.

Q: What kind of barrel threads does the PM have?

A: cocker or timmy threads, which are the same things.

Q: Can the Promaster run on CO2?

A: The Promaster is meant to be used with HPA (high pressure air). CO2 can wear out the o-rings and possibly damage the solenoid. If HPA fills are available in your area, get HPA. If you MUST run your gun off CO2 because HPA fills are not available in your area, get your CO2 tank antisiphoned and put at least one Palmer stabilizer (or other regulator that is good with CO2) on your gun to prevent any liquid CO2 from getting into the guns itself. For more info about running CO2, click here. That thread deals with B2K's, but the info all pertains to Promasters as well.

Q: What are the differences between the Lasoya Promaster and the regular Promaster?

A: Click here (coutesy of MecTurtleCocker)

Q: My gun didn't come with an owner's manual. Where can I find one?

A: ICD's website, www.icdpaintball.com, has manuals for all their guns in pdf format. The Promaster manual is here

Q: How can I set up the regs on my Promaster for the best efficiency and consistency?

A: I've got just the thread for you. It deals with B2K's, but applies to Promasters as well. Click here

supernothing76 10-30-2006 01:21 PM

Troubleshooting

copied off the ICD website-

Battery Related Problems
LED Functions but the marker does not fire.

1. Alternately missed shots.
2. Velocity drops while firing several shots.
3. Erratic velocities/jumps of 20 fps or more.
4. Unexplainable paint breakage.
5. Slight leak from the solenoid in the back of the grip.

Change the Battery. The LED only requires 1.5 volts to function. The solenoid requires a minimum of 5 volts to operate. This means the marker may appear to be getting enough power when it is not. All batteries are NOT created equal. Performance will vary. Therefore, if you experience any erratic behavior, always change the battery first.
Leak related problems
The ProMaster has a leak down the barrel.

Reason: Gas is leaking through or around the valve pin seal or O-ring area.

1. Can you hear the leak when the gas is removed? Yes? There is no leak. You hear the ocean.
2. The valve seal is marred, scratched, worn out, or dirty. Try cleaning it with rubbing alcohol. If this does not work, replace it.
3. Replace the –016 O-rings on the valve seat.
4. The valve seat set screw is overtightened, cocking the valve seat upwards. Verify the set screw is loctited and only screwed in until hand-tight.

The ProMaster has a leak around the low-pressure regulator seam.

Reason: the seal between the regulator body and regulator adaptor body is bad, or the regulator is loose.

1. Tighten the regulator to the body.
2. Replace the –019 O-ring on the low-pressure regulator body.

The ProMaster has a leak around the high-pressure regulator seam.

Reason: the seal between the regulator body and ASA adaptor is bad, or the regulator is loose.

1. Tighten the regulator to the adaptor
2. Replace the urethane –015 O-ring on the high-pressure regulator body.

Reason: the seal between the main regulator body and regulator cup housing is bad.

1. Tighten the main regulator body to the regulator cup housing
2. Replace the –018 O-ring on the main regulator body.

The ProMaster has a leak through or around the regulator adjustment screw.

Reason: The O-ring on the plunger is bad.

1. Replace the urethane –015 O-ring on the plunger.

The ProMaster has a leak inside the grip/battery area.

The best method for tracking down an internal leak is to remove the right clamshell grip and determine where the leak is coming from.

Reason: the 4- way valve leaking.

1. Check for over-pressurization from the low-pressure regulator.
2. Re-adjust the low-pressure regulator.
3. Replace the solenoid valve assembly. NOTE: NEVER DISASSEMBLE THE SOLENOID VALVE. THIS MAY PERMANENTLY DAMAGE IT BY DISRUPTING THE MAGNETIC FIELD.

Reason: the QEV or a barb is leaking.

1. Replace the barb and/or QEV.

Reason: the internal hose is leaking.

1. Replace the internal hose if it has visible damage.

Reason: the cylinder assembly is leaking.

1. Replace one or both of the -010 O-Rings within the cylinder assembly.

Ball Breakage Problems

1. Always use an agitated loader and verify the PDS is on. The balls in you loader can bind, messing up your trigger timing.
2. Clean the ball detent area. If the ball detent does not move freely, the paintballs will crush against it or it may have stuck in the depressed position, allowing double feeding.
3. Aftermarket ball detent springs may not be properly rated for the right amount of tension. Always use the spring provided by ICD.
4. Verify the tension of the ball detent. If the ball detent is too sloppy, the ball will not be held in the proper position. This may allow the next ball to enter the path of the bolt, subjecting it to impact cracking or shearing.
5. Verify the Dwell Settings. A low dwell setting can disrupt the firing valve timing.
6. Clean all debris from the breech and barrel.
7. Verify the bolt is cocked back all the way. If not, readjust the LP regulator.
8. If using an aftermarket barrel, verify the concentricity of the bore.
9. Always use fresh, high quality paint. NOT ALL PAINTS ARE CREATED EQUAL.

Regulator Related Problems
The gauge reads correctly when charged, but climbs in pressure after a few moments.


1. The regulator seal has been contaminated. Disassemble the regulator and clean the seal with a Q-tip and alcohol or replace it.
2. The –010 O-ring on the HP regulator cup housing is nicked or cut. Replace it.
3. The brass regulator cup has nicks or scratches in it. Replace it.
4. Rarely, the plunger pin may be bent.

The gauge reads correctly when charged, but drops in pressure after a few shots.

1. The regulator may not be adjusted correctly. Remove all pressurized gas and back out the regulator adjustment screw until it is flush with the body. Pressurize the system and adjust the pressure back up to the desired pressure.
2. Verify that the on/off valve on your bottom line adaptor is properly adjusted. If the valve is only partially open, it will restrict airflow into the regulator from the tank. Alternately, if the valve is open too far, it may also restrict airflow from the tank.
3. Verify the output pressure of your tank.
4. Verify that there are no fluctuations in the output pressure of your tank.

The gauge reads correctly when charged, but drops in pressure after a few shots, and is slow to climb back to normal pressure.

1. The recovery side of the regulator is sluggish and may need cleaning and lubrication. Clean out any debris and lubricate the urethane O-ring on the outside of the delrin plunger.
2. The regulator seal needs to be replaced if it has a deep groove in it from the regulator cup.
3. Verify that the on/off valve on your bottom line adaptor is properly adjusted. If the valve is only partially open, it will restrict airflow into the regulator. Alternately, if the valve is open too far, it may also restrict airflow into the regulator.

The LP regulator climbs in pressure.

1. The regulator seal has been contaminated. Disassemble the regulator and clean the seal with a Q-tip and alcohol.
2. The brass regulator cup has nicks or scratches in it. Replace it.
3. Rarely, the plunger pin may be bent.
4. The HP and LP plungers have been switched. Remember, the LP uses the short plunger and the HP uses the long plunger.

The LP regulator drops in pressure after a few shots, and/or is slow to climb back to normal pressure.

1. The recovery side of the regulator is sluggish and may need cleaning and lubrication. Clean out any debris and lubricate the urethane O-ring on the outside of the delrin plunger.
2. The regulator seal needs to be replaced if it has a deep groove in it from the regulator cup.

If either regulator is not regulating at all (the gauge goes all the way up despite adjustment) there are missing pieces or the regulator has been assembled incorrectly. Remember: this is NOT covered under warranty. Any damage resulting from the regulators missing pieces or being assembled improperly is NOT covered under warranty.

Replacing or removing the original regulators voids all warranties.
Velocity Problems

1. Dead or weak battery.
2. Improper regulator adjustment.
3. Excessive or inadequate lubrication in cylinder or solenoid.
4. Improper Dwell settings.
5. Improper paint to barrel match.
6. Dirty cylinder or solenoid.
7. Swollen O-rings on cylinder.
8. Clogged or blocked airlines.
9. Loose valve pin or valve seat.
10. Loose wires.

Electrical Problems
The ProMaster will not fire

The LED blinks, but the marker still does not fire.


1. Dead or weak battery.
2. Loose wires. Verify all wires are firmly connected and not pinched.
3. Loose connection of wiring harness to board.
4. Dwell setting too low. Verify the Dwell setting is set properly.
5. The trigger adjustment screws are not set properly, and are not contacting the microswitch. Readjust the adjustment screws per the manual's instructions.

The LED does not turn on, and the marker does not fire.

1. Dead battery.
2. Loose wires. Verify all wires are firmly connected and not pinched.
3. Wiring harness plugged in backwards. Verify that the wiring harness is plugged in properly. The missing pin and blocked insert should match up.
4. Wiring harness unplugged from board.

The LED stays solid for a moment and then blinks, and marker will not fire.

Reason: The micro-switch is damaged or depressed by the trigger set screw.

1. Trigger adjustment screws set improperly. Readjust the trigger set screws.
2. Trigger adjustment screws screwed in too far and damaged micro-switch. Replace micro-switch and readjust screws.

The PDS does not work properly.

Reason: The circuit board does not detect a signal from the transducer to the receiver.

1. Verify there are no loose or pinched wires.
2. Clean the diodes and breech of the marker.
3. Verify the trigger adjustments screw settings.

Efficiency problems

1. Verify the regulators are set properly. Follow instructions in the manual for adjustment.
2. Verify the Dwell setting is not too high.
3. Cylinder is over/under lubricated.
4. Dead or weak battery.

The ProMaster is shooting too slowly.

1. Verify your loader is working properly and that it has a fresh battery.
2. Verify your board settings are set properly.
3. If the bolt is sluggish, clean and lubricate the cylinder. Readjust your LP regulator.

supernothing76 10-30-2006 01:22 PM

First Shot Drop-Off (FSDO)


If your marker is pressurized and has not been fired for a long time, FSDO is normal. Check for a problem if your marker has been fired recently and is still experiencing FSDO.


1. Improper Dwell setting.
2. Cylinder/Solenoid needs lubrication.
3. Cylinder/Solenoid is over-lubricated.
4. Marker is dirty.
5. Improper regulator settings.
6. Small leak.
7. Dead or weak battery.
8. Replace the -016 O-Ring on the LP regulator body.

The promaster Manual can be downloaded here:
http://www.icdpaintball.com/manuals/...sterManual.pdf
Need adobe reader to open it-

For a guide to taking apart and lubing the Lasoya Promaster's Vigilante inline regulator, click here

Promaster Upgrades:

Low pressure Regulators(uses bushmaster lpr's)


Promaster LPR Volumizer- - heard to stay away from this LPR, think there is a a few bugs that need to be worked out with it

Sonic LPR- - very consistent, small and easy to clean.

AKA SCM-III LPR- - very consistent, one of the best Lprs on the market today

Promaster micro rock LPR Kit- - very solid built and is also consistent but it only comes in chrome/silver

Valves (uses bushmaster valves)

Zenitram Valve- High flow and very well built. (out of production)

Vapor Valve - high flowing and has a black magic cup seal which has a life time warranty not to leak.

Ebay valve Similar to the vapor valve just doesn't have the black magic cup seal. People have had very mixed experiences with this valve. Buy at your own risk.

Empire Pressure Balance Valve -wouldn't recommend this valve b/c of all the leaking issues it is having

Macdev Red Valve - Excellent high flowing valve from Macdev, performance is comparable to Zenitram and Vapor valves.

Bolts and bolt pins

Vapor bolt - good bolt replacment if you are having blow back issues

Alamo city paintball bolt - these bolts are very good and are relatively cheap, can get you bolt in multiple color with or without o rings

Ebay Delrin bolt pins - this is a good upgrade if your stock pin is rubbing up against the ano and damaging it.

Rams

Promaster Low Pressure Cylinder - yields lower pressures to run your gun which makes it more efficient and help lower your guns kick

Triggers(yes, it uses freestyle style triggers)triggers are all opinion

Pro Trigger

Naughty Dog Trigger

Cp trigger

Vaporworks S-4 Bearing Trigger

FBM Delrin Trigger

Lazer Eye upgrades

Vapor lazer eyes - this upgrade serves no performance advantage just makes it look cool.

Promaster Boards

Promaster Kila Drive Board -16 Firings modes including 3 different Breakout modes, 12 Programmable settings including SSR(Shot Sequence Registration) technology,Ramp activation point, H-delay, Fully adjustable ROF, Failed eye ROF, Debounce, Mecahnical bounce, Bolt delay, and Easy switch from Semi to PSP. Free lifetime software upgrades

NOX Promaster Board - i think the board is 10x better then any on that market and it pretty inexpensive too!

2k7 Chaos Board - Vaporworks' newest Chaos board, can be used in the Promaster. Has adjustable ramp settings and many others. V-link cable can be purchased separately to hook board up to your computer to change settings, but trigger programming can be used as well.

detents

Kila Instinct TM magnetic detent system -replaces the promaster's eye covers and in the covers there are adj magnetic detents, have them on my borg they work very well.

Feednecks

CCM adj feednecks - made by a company you can trust, very well built

AKA Clamping Feedtube (its under the b2k feedneck) - 20 bucks for a great adj feed neck that is made by aka.

Note: Promasters use ICD threaded feednecks. Websites sometimes list them as "B2K" or "freestyle" threads as well. They are all the same threads. ICD threads are similar to Impulse threads, so many Impulse threaded feednecks will fit, but they present an increased risk of stripping the feedneck threads on your gun. Therefore Impulse threaded feednecks or "Impulse/Ion/ICD" threaded feednecks (feednecks which are advertised as fitting all three of these markers) are not recommended.

Promaster Operation animation

lotus_esprit5 10-30-2006 07:25 PM

Video Section

Vids are sweet. For this reason I am going to put useful Promaster vids here. Here's a couple. Hopefully I'll be able to add to this over time:

Turning the eyes off on a Lasoya Promaster

Changing firing modes on a Lasoya Promaster

Setting regs to zero and then resetting them on a Lasoya Promaster

all three videos coutesy of bronze

Smart Partys 04-07-2007 03:50 PM

http://www.maddmanproducts.com/Home_...et_valves.html
They make a bushmaster valve that you may want to add to the list.


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