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Neon Lites 03-09-2007 09:26 PM

The Ultimate Guide to Kingman
Spyder Overview

If you still have questions after reading this guide, look through the Old Ultimate Sticky before making a new thread.

How your Spyder works

The Spyder Overview is here to give you the basic idea of your Spyder before you make the purchase. Not everything is here, but you can find pictures by searching PBR.

First things first. Feednecks. You’ve probably been looking for a feedneck upgrade and have seen two options, “Holes” and “No Holes/tabs.” This is how the feedneck mounts to the gun. Holes use screws and No Holes uses a tab style with screws to secure it. Older Spyders use a style called “Power Feed” which is when the feedneck is welded to the gun at a slant.

No Holes


Power Feed

Spyder Victor Vs. Victor 2

Victors are cheap mechanical Spyders. The difference between a Victor and a Victor 2 is that the Victor 2 has a vertical adapter (VA) and the Victor doesn’t.

Spyder Rodeo

-Probably the best Mechanical Spyder.
-No holes
-Rear Cocking
-Stock with regulator

Spyder Sonix

-Top cocking
-No holes

Spyder Shutter

-Rear cocking
-Power feed
-ASA gauge to show operating pressure

Spyder Electra ‘05

-Top cocking
-Rocking trigger

Spyder Imagine

-No holes/tabs on newer models (after ’04), holes on older (before ’04)
-Rear cocking

Spyder AMG Classic vs. AMG LCD

Both use holes, are side cocking, and use a frame and expansion chamber that are not compatible with other Spyder parts. The LCD lets you change the ROF, view highest ROF and view firing modes.

Spyder Fenix

-Stock with regulator
-No holes/tabs
-CAMD frame

Spyder Pilot ACS

-No holes/tabs
-Wont accept threaded regulators or x chambers

Upgrade Guide

People always ask the same question, “What upgrades should I buy first?” Well, it all depends on who you are. By reading this guide, maybe you can make the decision on your own.


An upgraded barrel is always a good idea. If you are looking for a good, inexpensive barrel, your best bet will be with either a CP or a J&J Ceramic. Although there are many other good barrels, these are the common choice, and can often be found in trading forums for under $20.


J&J Ceramic


The micro switch is basically the little button behind the trigger. When pressed, it trips, releases the striker and allows the shot to be fired. The stock switch is 250grams, which means that it will take 250g to activate the switch. 250g doesn’t sound like much, but it can really make a difference if it is upgraded to a switch with a lighter pull. There are many different versions of the 50g switch, such as the SPPS spli-switch and the X-Customs SwiX, both very good choices. 25g switches are still lighter, but are too light and have too much bounce. Try to stay clear of them. Look below in the links section for guides to installing them.




A new feed neck should be one of your first choices for an upgrade. Most hoppers won’t fit on stock spyder feed necks, and they come with crappy plastic elbows that make your hopper sit way too high. With a good feed neck, your hopper will sit very low and tight.


New Designz






The detent is that little black thing that screws on under your FeedNeck. Its main purposes are to stop double feeding and to prevent the ball from rolling out of the barrel. Be careful when screwing stock detents in, because they can break if screwed in too hard. You don’t see if too often, but they can be upgraded. The main choice when upgrading detents is Kila detents. If you are going to use eyes, you wont have to worry about it because the eye covers will have them built in.

Kila Detents


You should all know what a trigger is. Triggers come down to personal preference, so pick the one that is most comfortable to you. I’ve found that most people like the ACP Thrasher/Slasher and the SPPS triggers, but there are many others to consider.


FBM Delrin

ACP Slasher

ACP Thrasher

SPPS Snapdragon

SPPS DragonTail

Kingman Rocking Trigger

CiP Sweet Spot



The bolt is basically what propels the ball out of the marker. The bolt is a very good thing to get upgraded, whether you’re just trying to upgrade your gun or you are trying to convert to Low Pressure. Plastic or Teflon type bolts such as delrins are best because they so not scratch up the inside of your gun, do not require lubing and are lighter. Some Spyder owners use 2k2-style Intimidator bolts. They can be used if your body can accept top cocking Spyder bolts. Stock bolts can have the venturi removed and can be polished for LP, look below for guides.

Kingman ACS

JAM Enterprises JAM Bolt

Shocktech Super Fly

CiP Full Force

AKALMP Lightning


The striker is that thing underneath of your bolt. Its purpose is to release the air from your LPC into your marker to propel the ball. Can be polished for LP, look below for guides.

SPPS Dragonfly

ACP Delrin

Neon Lites 03-09-2007 09:28 PM


Most of these are taken from Otter SC Customs, Nick's Distortion and SundragonPPS.Many things are found in those sites, I’m just making it a little easier and linking it for you.

Basic upkeep


Low Pressure guide *Temporarily unavailable*

Spyder to Intimidator (spimmy)*Temporarily unavailable*

Spyder convertible *Temporarily unavailable*

50g switch installation *Temporarily unavailable*

Mechanical Trigger jobs *Temporarily unavailable*

Polishing Internals *Temporarily unavailable*

Anti-siphon installation

Putting a gauge on your VA

Intellifeeding your E-Spyder

All about bolts

Spyder Pump conversion

Troubleshooting *Temporarily unavailable*

FAQ *Temporarily unavailable*

Suction modification

VS Series
VS Series Disassembly
VS Series Upgrades

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