SLG Information
 

Since it seemed to be scattered all over the place I figured I'd try to organize it a little better. I'm by no means an expert, so if anyone has stuff to add/correct please feel free.

Proto's Description
No Rise pressure feed neck
Single piece proto barrel
Anti chop break beam eye system
Compact lightweight body weighing only 2 lbs. 2 oz!
Self closing valve 2 piece bolt
Multifunction self lubricating force button
Super low 145psi operating pressure
Adjustable reinforced polymer trigger
Ergonomic 45 grip frame
Hyper3 inline air regulator
Proto dual durometer injection sticky grip
Program with four tournament modes
Proto bottomline with dovetail


Useful Info
http://www.protopaintball.com
Manual
Cut-Away of SLG
Video-1
Video-2 from dye itself
Video-3 from PigTV


Faq

1. How fast will it shoot?
It is capable of 30 bps max ROF

2. Is it a Matrix?
That's debatable. Proto does refer to it on the box as the Proto Matrix SLG, and it does operate via a spool valve. At the same time many people won't accept the Matrix name being attributed to anything that doesn't have an pneumatic solenoid.

3. What firing modes does it have?
It features 4 modes: Semi-Automatic, Millenium, PSP, and NXL

4. What are the barrel threads?
Autococker, same as all proto guns

5. Can I use a "insert other Dye model" feedneck on my SLG?
Yes, all dye and proto guns use the same feedneck threads

6. How does the bolt work?
Whatever I say won't be as clear as the Manual. Just read that.

7. How much does it cost?
The MSRP was initially $250. This was dropped to $199 sometime in January 08

Upgrades
Since it has only been recently released the options are limited. In my opinon, the only upgrade that is going to be really desirable out of the box is the feedneck. Newdesignz is supposed to have several SLG products coming out shortly, so I will add those as they are released.

a. Feednecks
Any matrix style feedneck will work such as Shocktech, Redz, Trinity, New Designz or Custom Products.

b. Boards
Virtue just released an SLG board, and Tadao is planning to release one as well

c. Detents
Same as PM8, though there have been a few complaints about the functionality of the ones on the SLG. Kila Products has aftermarket detents available. New Designz has just released some as well

d. Triggers
Trinity paintball was the first to release one, several companies have followed suit including New Designz

e. Eyes
Same as DM4-8. Virtue has these commonly available

f. On/Off
The frame comes with a built in dovetail rail-mount. Thus just about any on/off should fit. I've had success with Empire's nano, but CP, Shocktech, and several other companies make very good ones as well. Unlike some markers with dovetails however it is not drilled for direct mount ASA's as an alternative. I guess you could drill holes yourself if you were really hell bent on a direct mount.

Troubleshooting

1. When shooting rapidly my eye suddenly stops working... if I turn the eye off I'm chopping like crazy.

This is likely due to the detents failing. Sometimes the stock detents aren't the best and balls can push past them causing double feeds. Any sort of spring detent like the Kila products one listed above will fix this problem (although I'd see if Dye would replace them for free first)

I've heard that Dye might be upgrading the detents in the second generation to some sort of spring detent- but that's just rumour at this point.

2. My gun is leaking air

Depending on the location of the leak it could be a number of things, but the initial answer to this question is to replace the battery with a brand new high quality one and lube/replace the o-rings on the bolt. If none of that works feel free to pm me and I'll offer my limited expertise or just call Dye.

3. My hopper won't fit

You can take the o-rings out of the feedneck, and for many hoppers that's the only way to fit them onto the gun. Just know that getting the o-rings back on afterwards is borderline impossible. I have yet to find a hopper that fits with the top o-ring in, thus I have personally removed that one.

For what its worth, I've found that the Torque loader fits perfectly with the top o-ring out, and that a Viewloader Revvy requires a small layer of tape to fit under those circumstances.

4. I can't access firing modes other than semi-auto.

According to Dye techs some black SLG's were mistakenly shipped with Semi-only boards. For a replacement, contact Dye Tech and they will hook you up. (Source: Tcheno)

5. When I'm playing with my marker at home and cover the eyes it seems to fire really slowly.

As per everyone's favourite super mod Uziel Gal

"The slow rate is due to the board registering an eye fault.

When your marker fires and the bolt retracts, the eye first looks for the chamber to be empty (bolt open and no ball); it then starts to look for a ball to enter the chamber. It will then acknowledge the presence of the ball and allow the marker to fire as soon as the trigger is pulled.

If on the other hand the eye sees that the chamber is constantly blocked, it cannot tell the differnce between the bolt being closed, or open, and whether or not there is a ball ready to fire. It assumes that the eye is faulty, and so reverts to a lower rate of fire in orderto avoid chopping.

In other words, by constantly blocking the eye with your finger, you've caused the board to think that there is an eye fault.

If you want to dry fire your marker, or just click the solenoid, turn the eyes off. If you want to see how fast your marker can really fire, then you need to get out and actually shoot paint; blocking the eyes just isn't the same as shooting paint."

6. My gun used to be very consistent but isn't shooting consistent anymore

Did you change the paint you are using? Poor quality paint will have an inconsistent bore size and thus be inconsistent when fired. You could also try changing the battery and make sure you have a full tank (sometimes when these run low they can cause inconsistency). I would also try cleaning and lubing the bolt to make sure it moves smoothly. If that doesn't work it might be time to rebuild the regulator. There's a very good step by step in the Manual on how to do this.

7. My eyes stopped working

The simplest solution is that your battery is dying, often the eyes will stop working and you'll begin to get leaks when this occurs. If that doesn't work you may need to clean them: remove the eye guard and pull the eyes out. I clean them with a lint-free cloth, but Q-tips will also work. Lastly make sure that your eyes didn't become disconnected from the board. If none of these work, then its time to replace the eyes. Your local shop should be able to get them in easily, or just contact Dye.


Updated Jan 7/07

WARNING

Just talked to a Dye tech and it seems that SLG's with black PCBs only have Semi.
This was caused by a mistake on the assembly line.
Please contact Dye Tech support for a replacement.

Hope that helped

Thanks to you guys for posting this information, beat me to it :tup:

thank you this is tips from pbn!

whats a PCB?

An electronic board. Theres PCB, SMT, SMD(almost same as SMT), they are all types of electronic boards and ways of placing the parts on an electronic board.

how do you tell if you have one? cause when i turn my eyes on and put my finger or a paintball in the chamber it only does semi at a slow rate.

The printed circuit board will be black in colour. So that's obviously the first thing to check. Have you actually tried changing the mode from semi to something else? The manual will explain how to do this if you haven't.

It's semi at a low rate cause its detecting bad/dirty eyes (flashing green).

:nod: The slow rate is due to the board registering an eye fault.

When your marker fires and the bolt retracts, the eye first looks for the chamber to be empty (bolt open and no ball); it then starts to look for a ball to enter the chamber. It will then acknowledge the presence of the ball and allow the marker to fire as soon as the trigger is pulled.

If on the other hand the eye sees that the chamber is constantly blocked, it cannot tell the differnce between the bolt being closed, or open, and whether or not there is a ball ready to fire. It assumes that the eye is faulty, and so reverts to a lower rate of fire in orderto avoid chopping.

In other words, by constantly blocking the eye with your finger, you've caused the board to think that there is an eye fault.

If you want to dry fire your marker, or just click the solenoid, turn the eyes off. If you want to see how fast your marker can really fire, then you need to get out and actually shoot paint; blocking the eyes just isn't the same as shooting paint.

Just received the new SLG bolt from Dye so here's how it looks like:


The tip seems to be made from some sort of plastic.

I've just finished writing my SLG review.
Check it out on http://www.pbreview.com/products/rev...&page=1#169757
Hope it helps

I have the eye problems, I'm hearing something about the bolt being defective causing that.... is that true? If so what do i do?

should i buy an slg with all these problems

Im leaking air where it seems to be the Multifunction self lubricating force button or some where in the back cap, i changed all my o-rings/cleaned/lubed it up again and it still seems to leak? any suggestion

Make sure that the back cap of your bolt and the middle piece are screwed all the way together. I had that happen to me one time and when i took my bolt out those two pieces were loose. Also make sure that you screw the tank all the way in because sometimes if you don't, then there isn't enough pressure to push the malfunction self-lubricating force button all the way out of the back cap.

Hope this helps

all guns have there problems its up to as a owner to maintain your marker. i didnt maintian my autococker and i suffered the consequence; greatly.:(

i just bought an slg and im pissed that proto designs a farly good gun for its price (and im a prety big hypocryte on cheap guns) but it burns my *** that the trigger is so dam ****ty

What did you expect, a PM8? I'm guessing you got the old SLG so really you're complaining about the trigger on a $200 gun. You can't honestly expect it to be the perfect gun for that price. Again Proto made a $200 gun, not surprisingly corners were cut in it's design to bring you such an affordable gun.

if there wasnt cut corners then everyone would get that 200 dollar gun and everyone else would be boned