JT Frequently Asked Questions!
Please contribute your wisdom. This thread is open to anyone who wishes to contribute. If at all possible if you could include pictures along with your descriptions on how to do things, it'll make it easier for those reading.
Maintanence of JT Excellerator 3.0/4.0
Before and after every paintball game it is important for you to wipe your paintball gun down, disassemble it, oil all of the necessary parts, and put it back together for storage or play.
Materials Needed to Disassemble and Maintain Gun:
1. A towel or rag to set bits and pieces down on and to wipe gun off
2. Gold cup gun oil or any other type of oil specially made for paintball use
3. Set of allen wrenches which should have come with your JT gun
4. A few long pieces of rag (you can do like I did and cut up an old T-Shirt into many strips)
Basic Disassembly of JT Excellerator 3.0 and 4.0:
1. Take ring off of pin at the back of gun, right under the bolt
2. Hold down the silver cylinder under the bolt tube and carefully slide the pin out of the gunís body (if you do not hold the cylinder down it will shoot out and you may lose some important parts)
3. Now carefully pull out the metal cylinder out of the tube, you will see the metal cylinder, a spring, anda black plastic guide. Take these parts and carefully put them to the side
4. Carefully, and pulling straight out so as to not scratch anything, pull the bolt which is attached to the striker out of the guns body, but be sure to catch the striker because it will fall out (the black rubber stopper will also fall out)
5. Look at the front of the gunís body; you will see the volumizer which is the bullet shaped thing sticking out of the bottom tube of the body. You will need to just unscrew this and put to the side all that you took out, which should be the volumizer, a cone shaped spring, and metal star looking guide, and the cup seal and valve pin
6. Now, with an old rag, very carefully wipe down all that you took out, and roll another rag up into a long swab and run it through the top tube of the gunís body (where the bolt was) and through the barrel
7. Put a few drops of oil on a rag and wipe all of the parts that you took out to cover them with a thin layer of oil. Next you will need to take the paintball gun oil and put a drop on all of the o-rings that you see (which should be 3 on the bolt, 1 on the striker, and 1 on the volumizer) then, with your finger, for each o-ring evenly spread that drop of oil to cover then entire ring
8. Now the reassembly begins, and youíll hafta screw the volumizer back in with the spring inside of it, and to the spring connected the star-shaped guide, and the cup seal and valve pin (just how you took it out)
9. Attach the striker (which in case you still donít know is the big metal thing inside of the lower tube which was attached to the bolt) to the bolt and once again carefully slide it back in until it will go no further
10. While applying pressure to the bolt pull on the trigger and the bolt should snap back into place, then put pressure once again on the bolt and pull the trigger again to decock the bolt
11. Next put into the bottom tube the thick rubber stopper (which looks like an oversized o-ring), pushing it all the way in
12. Put into the bottom tube the main spring which should go in the hole in the rubber stopper you just put in
13. Put inside the spring the black plastic guide, and put on the metal cylinder which is the velocity adjuster
14. Push the metal cylinder in so that the hole will align with the hole on the gunís body, and push through the pin that you took out in the very beginning
15. Last, slide on the ring to hold the pin in place and cock and dry-fire your gun a few times to make sure that it works
Advanced Disassembly of JT Excellerator 3.0 and 4.0:
1. Repeat steps 1-7 of the basic disassembly to begin
2. Take a phillips head screw driver and take out the screws holding the regulator to the drop forward
3. Take the expansion chamber or gas-through grip and turn it clockwise until it unscrews
4. Now you can clean the inside of your x-chamber or gas-through and after you are done put 2-3 drops of oil down the tube inside of the x-chamber/gas-through and try to evenly spread it with your finger as much as you can
5. To reassemble screw the x-chamber/gas-through back on and reattach the screws that hold the regulator to the drop forward
6. Repeat steps 8-15 of basic disassembly to finish
Do the advanced disassembly about after 2-3 games and do the basic before and after every game to ensure a properly working gun without any malfunctions during your play.
Upgrades for JT Excellerator
Most of this was quoted from OtterSC
Some upgrades work and some do not for the JT Excellerator line of paintball guns, for example there arenít any aftermarket grips that will on the JT Excellerator trigger frames. Here is a list of upgrades you can buy for your JT:
1. New Barrel - This should be the first thing to get before anything else. Any spyder barrels will fit the JT line of guns. The stock JT barrel is one of the best stock barrels ever for close range accuracy, but if you want long-rage accuracy or a barrel for LP then youíre going to have to buy an aftermarket one. There is no ONE barrel that is more accurate than another. I cringe when I see that statement that "XYZ" barrel is the very best. That is false! The best way to have accuracy is to make sure you match the paint you use often with a barrel of matching bore size. A good paint to barrel match will help give you accuracy and cuts down on wasting air. A new barrel will be quieter than the stock in most cases. A new barrel will also sometimes help in ball breaks. Get a barrel between 8-14". Actual studies on paintball have shown that it takes a minimum 8" for a paintball to get up to speed. Another 2-4" is a guide for the paintball. The remaining barrel is just friction on the ball, causing you to use more gas. Good companies to look at are CP, Dye, J&J, Lapco, and Smart Parts. You can get quality barrels for under $60.
2. Agitating Ball Hopper - Breaking paintballs? It may not be the bolt, as many manufacturers will claim. It very well can be the speed of the balls feeding into you marker. In a non-agitating hopper, the balls tend to get stuck before entering the hopper neck. When they do find there way down the neck, it could be the same time that the bolt is traveling forward. You have the BE eVolution, and the 9v and 12v Revi's to choose from. There are other hoppers that you can consider. But the above mentioned have been proven. These special hoppers will increase the feed by agitating the paintballs in the hopper with rotating paddles. Keeping the balls moving will help prevent the bottleneck that happens with non-agitating hoppers. There is also the AGD Warp Feed. This requires a Revi along with the Warp Feed. So, why get the Warp Feed when I also need a Revi for it. A good reason is that the hopper is moved from the top of your marker to the side. This is a much lower profile, enables you to shoot your marker sideways, and increases the feed into your marker. The only draw back is the feed is dictated by how the Revi feeds it. Sideways shooting, youíre probably good for 15 to 20 shots. Then you need to right side it up to refill the Warp.
3. Regulator - A good addition. It will make your marker more consistent which will give your marker potentially better accuracy. Be sure to get the right regulator for the gas youíre using. For CO2 - Palmers Stabilizer and Bob Long Torpedo is a great choice. Also, the WGP regulator for the Autococker and the PMI are not bad with CO2 and can screw into the JT 5.0/6.0. For Nitro/HPA - Vigilante are good or any of the CO2 regulators mentioned above. And if you do get a regulator while using CO2 and switch to Nitro, no problem using the same regulator. To add a regulator to the JT 3.0\4.0 you will need to do some modifications and itís not for everyone. For the 5.0/6.0 any regulator should fit into the vertical adapter. You may need to invest in a new ASA (that thingy that you screw the tank to), elbows, and braided hose or macro-line. It is possible to use the existing air lines with the use of a Metric to US thread adapter. Adding an anti-siphon tube to the CO2 tank will help keep liquid CO2 out of the marker.
Don't bother with an expansion chamber or even a gas thru grip. Expansion chambers will give the CO2 time to expand. But it will still give you velocity spikes that can add 20, even 30 fps. See not so great upgrades below for a better explanation as well as setup suggestions.
4. Spring Kit - An excellent way to fine tuning the velocity. Especially in really cold or hot weather when the velocity cannot adjust to where you need it. 32 Degrees and Maddman kits are popular. Also, while getting the springs, stock up on o-rings and get a Lapco cup seal. O-rings tend to break often. Especially when using CO2. The Lapco cup seal is made of softer material and doesn't scratch easily. This gives you a better seal than the stock one. Another small price item is a thread protector. This is a cap that screws onto the air bottles threads and proctects them from getting banged up. For you nitro tank users, I also suggest a fill nipple cap to keep dirt out.
5. Nitro/HPA Tank - This will level out any severe spikes that you often get with CO2. Even with a regulator. Your shots will be very consistent because it is simply air that we breathe that is used. Much more stable than CO2.
6. Trigger Job or Electronic Trigger Frame - There are many home modification instructions available online to reduce trigger pull on several sites. www.Spyder-Club.org and www.Spyder-faq-center.com has articles as well. If you're not too sure of yourself about doing your own modification, go to Polecat Paintball and for $20 (at the time of this writing), you get a pretty nice one. Getting a new trigger frame may be an option. There are many to choose from. Some you may need to transfer your existing trigger internals to the new frame. If you do that, might as well do a trigger mod. Dye, Bob Long, 32 Degrees are good trigger frames. The e-frames are nice. Also, depending on the trigger frame, the holes that you have for the bottom line may change. JT stock frames have off-center holes. Some aftermarket frames have in-line holes and if this is the case, a bottom line adaptor is needed or get a new bottom line accordingly.
7. Drop Forward or Bottomline - While youíre getting a regulator, look into getting a drop forward or a bottomline. Stock, the JTs will use metric threads, including the hoses. Adding US threaded pieces will make adding aftermarket items easier. Drop forwards come in all shapes and sizes. Get one you like. Drop forwards with an on/off feature on the ASA are nice. No more gas escaping from your tank while you unscrew the tank. Just turn off the air, shoot the maker (without paint) until it no longer re-cocks. Also, look under your grip. Are the holes staggered? More than likely they are. You need to purchase an adapter that switches your staggered, off-center holes on the bottom of the grip to in-line holes. These can be found at G3 Paintball and Polecat Paintball. Expect to pay around $10 to $15. And don't forget about new fittings and air lines. For air lines, I suggest either SS braid or Macroline. Microline are too restrictive. Braided hose lasts longer, but comes in certain sizes. Macroline can be cut to fit and easy to replace, but tends to crack and leak easily. You can use the stock air lines. However, a Metric to US thread adaptor is needed. If you do get new air fittings, get ones that are inexpensive.
8. Polish Internals - Polishing your internals will ease the friction of your parts in the marker. This is not really a purchase item like the list above, but certainly a performance enhancing upgrade. Use 800-1,000 grit paper and use circular motions. Never use coarse sandpaper and do not create any flat spots. Clean off the dust and use a nice metal wax, like Mothers Mag. You need to polish the bolt, sear, valve pin, and the inside of the body where the bolt assembly moves. But do not sand the internal tubes. Just polish them.
* The following items are not really needed for a great shooting marker. If you have done all of the above, you have invested a lot of time and money into your marker. The next step into transforming your JT into a slick marker is to make it LP (or Low Pressure). You're more than halfway there if you have done all of the above upgrades. The next few steps are either purchased products and/or home modifications that you can do.
1. Bolt Ė The stock JT bolt is almost perfect for LP use, but if you want to squeeze every last ounce of performance from your gun you can buy an aftermarket one. Stay away from venturi tho. There is a dedicated LP bolt made by AKA called Lightening Bolt. This is a bolt that is manufactured in such a way to direct the flow of air to the ball. It also has no venturi. You can also get delrin bolts which are made from plastic and wonít cause so much wear inside of your gun. Good delrin bolts are White Wolf, Tarantula, or a nylon Swan Creek, but almost any spyder bolts will fit in the JT.
2. Valve - The stock valve is all right for normal use, but there is a better valve available for LP. It is from AKA called the Tornado valve. Diamond Labs made one before their demise that worked great. But the DL valves are extremely hard to find. You could use any of the turbo valves such as the Venom, 32degrees MagnaPort, or the one from Taso with close to equal results. The AKA is well worth the money. If not, then get a turbo valve.
3. Miscellaneous Modifications - There are other things to do for an LP setup. Try different spring combinations for the main and valve. You may find that a strong valve and a weak main will give you the lowest psi at the desired velocity. Adding a gauge is also nice. They are not accurate and they may be off by 25psi, but it will give you a rough estimate on what pressure you are at. Some regulators do not allow you to mount gauges on them, so you need to mount them on the ASA or the gunís body itself if it is important to you to have a gauge.
Not So Great Upgrades
The following list is items not needed, basically a waste of money as far as performance wise. I suggest saving up for something more worthwhile like what is mentioned above....
a) Valves - For general use, the stock valve is good. Unless you are going LP, you are fine with the stock.
b) Bolts - The stock bolt is also good for general use. I have purchased other aftermarket bolts. I have not experienced any changes. I have never liked the venturi, LP setup or not. You may experience an increase in FPS. Just reduce the velocity or change springs to bring it down to the right velocity. There is NO magical bolt that will increase distance and accuracy that many manufacturers advertise.
c) Trigger Frame Ė The JT Frames are good, but for outer appearance, an aftermarket is all right too. A new trigger frame is just for looks. Dye stickies or hogue grips or any other aftermarket grips will not fit on the stick JT trigger frame.
d) Remote. This is preference. But, the loose hose from the marker to your tank on your back can get tangled up and slow you down. A drop forward is best to have a well balanced marker with a tank.
e) Expansion Chamber. They work, don't get me wrong. But having an anti-siphon tube installed will be so much better for consistency. Let say that you are playing in 75* weather - excellent for CO2. Or is it? As you shoot your marker, the tank will get cold. The more you shoot, the colder it gets. CO2 doesn't like the cold. As it gets cold, there is less pressure that evaporates into a gas. So, your tank pressure can be 800-900psi when you first start out. As you shoot, this pressure will reduce and it even could reduce to 500psi. As you shoot the liquid will be pulled out of the tank and into the marker causing velocity spikes and/or quick freeze your o-rings and break. Having an anti-siphon tube will only (if installed correctly) pull the gas out. Only in extreme cold climates will I ever suggest an x-chamber. I would actually tell you to use a remote line and carry your tank on your hip before switching to an x-chamber.
I'm currently working on more FAQs doe the JT guns so please wait cuz I've been busy. Gonna type up how to add a reg to JT 3.0/40 and other LP questions.
All jts guns (3.0-6.0)
spyder valves and bolts
for the 3.0 and the 4.0
Spyder regs and x-chambers
spyder hoses (also need a hose adapter)
For the 3.5,5.0, 6.0
Normal regs, hoses, drops
Angel feed ports
1. Gun only shoots once and wont recock itself
-broken o-ring,take apart as described in used condoms cleaning instructions and then check all orings. if any are damaged replace them.
-regulator not adjusted properly,adjust the screw on the other side of the gauge. loosen until it starts to leak. then tighten back up some.
-not enough air, refill tank
2. Gun just goes click and uncocks
-regulator not adjusted properly,adjust the screw on the other side of the gauge. loosen until it starts to leak. then tighten back up some.
-blockage in air lines, do advanced cleaning
(see used condoms reply)
thats all ive got for you now if anyone else remembers somethin put it in
What is the stock operating pressure of a 4.0? Can it operate off a tank preset to 650 PSI?
5.0 and 6.0
If your gun is chopping balls even if you have a revy when you start shooting fast...you need to either buy a new feed port or drill a couple holes in the feed port to release some of the pressure in it.
havnt notice that with the 5.0 and ive heard that becaue the 6.0 has a differant bolt that causes the excess blowback
Okay, walker probably knows more about the 5.0 than me, I own a 6.0. I've heard of some people having the problem with the blowback on the 5 also though. Personally I haven't had this problem with my 6.0 but many people do.
Barrels That Work on JTs
All JT stack tube blow-back guns use SPYDER threaded barrels.
One more thing to clarify:
WE KNOW THAT JTs ROCK SO STOP REPEATING THIS IN NEW THREADS.
JT Drop Forwards
Inline holes (straight) will not fit on the 3.0 and 4.0 JT guns but will work on the newer 3.5, 5.0, and 6.0.
If you want to have an inline drop forward work on the 3.0 and 4.0 you will need a hole adapter or drill and tap your own holes (which isn't hard) or get a new trigger frame.
If you are buying a drop forward get a macroline kit with it as well just as a backup in case your old hose fits fine and replacement if you need something longer.
Need some help on JT
I have a 6.0 specifically what can i do to bring the pressure down from 650-800 to a 200 without effecting it's performance.
All my o-rings fell apart after the first use when i went to cean it, It was a pain to find the o-rings does anyone know the actual size of the 3 major o-rings used.Stated in the manual Small-medium-large o-rings.
What can i do for the blow back on the marker.
The trigger sticks at times has anyone had a problem with this also.
And finall where can i get a different ball stop for this marker it has a tendency to shoot 2 balls.
All advice will greatly be appreciated.
Wat kind of mod. can i do to make it a low pressure marker,
Is there a spring i can buy for an upgrade that will be compatible.
Also, I noticed alot of people had different bolts on the gun some had venturi bolts others did not from factory. i have a venturi bolt on mine can I buy a different bolt or should i keep it.
also, I'm getting a 14in freak is that a good choice for a barrel.
thanks for your help
Great choice for barrel, tho may not be best for low pressure use due to the high amount of porting, but your accuracy will be dead nuts. To make the gun LP you need to get a low pressure high flowing valve and valve pin, and a good reg such as an AA vigilante or MacDev Gladiator for n2 and hpa or a palmer stab or bob long torpedo for co2. Also you will need to buy a spring kit (around $10 for 32* one) and all should fit, tho I recommend a complete one with valve springs and main springs such as the Maddman or 32* kits. The stock bolt you have now is fine and I don't think there is any aftermarket bolts that fit the 5.0/6.0 with the top pull pin for easy bolt removal. There is a new anti-chop bolt out for spyders and you could probably ask the guy who makes them to make it pull pin compatible. Hope this helps. Also if you do go for LP I recommend getting a barrel with less porting in order to increase efficiency.
Some links you may find useful:
O and don't forget to polish your internals.
Good LP barrels are lapco big shot or CP one piece.
Ok my gun is not recocking. I've never had trouble with this before. I just turned the regulator back to normal but its still getting only like 5 consecutive shots off the 12 gram co2s. My orings are fine ive just changed them. I am using the silver spring right now and it is very cold at my house, could this be the problem, do i need to use the black spring?:confused:
Is the gun sputtering? Try changing the striker o-ring and polishing your internals.
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