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Old 01-22-2004, 10:36 PM   #1
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CANADA
Post TES Online Manual / FAQs

TES Online Manual / FAQs

Well, after reading through this forum and my TES's manual, I've decided to try and make an online one for people who need help with their TES's . The manual that came with the marker told me jack all , so maybe this will help some of you new owners out .

Feel free to post anything that you think should have been made more clear in the manual, and hopefully someone will be able to explain it for you. Things like how to turn off the eye, if CO2 will work with the TES, reg adjustment tips, common air leaking areas, and good/bad upgrades.


The following applies for these two posts:
When you see either UPDATED! or NEW! in RED, it indicates that it has been very recently updated. If the previous statements are in GREEN text, this means are they have been added/updated not as recently but are still fairly new.


Some FAQs:

[color=orange-red]Turning off the DOSE/Eye:[/color] Hold down the trigger for around 8 seconds.

[color=orange-red]Turning the DOSE/Eye back on:[/color] Turn your TES off then back on.

[color=orange-red]Will CO2 work with my TES?:[/color] Yes, it will essentially function, but not at its best. You'll break O-Rings, and potentially suffer freeze ups and other malfunctions associated with CO2's cold nature.

[color=orange-red]How do I adjust the reg?:[/color] Using the allen wrench provided, un-screw the large allen nut counter-clockwise to increase pressure and velocity. Turn it clockwise to decrease velocity and pressure. I had to fire the gun to see the change on the guage when I was decreasing the pressure, so don't just crank it and wait to see it on your guage. Do it slowly and fire your marker when decreasing pressure. (Thank You Ivar Nelson) UPDATED!

[color=orange-red] Is air meant to leak out the barrel when I screw on my air source?:[/color] Well, I'm not sure if its meant to, but that doesn't matter. Next time, just make sure that you cock your marker.

[color=orange-red]How good is the stock barrel?:[/color] Well, as far as stock barrels go, it's pretty decent...until you break a ball. After that you'll need a good clean to get it back up to decent accuracy. A new barrel is not a must, but it's a big performance helper. Also, the stock barrel is 11" long and has varying porting.

[color=orange-red]Is the stock trigger replaceable/removable and adjustable?:[/color] Yes, to all of it. The trigger has a small allen screw at the top (inside the trigger frame, not visible from the outside). Screw it in clockwise to reduce forward movement. Un-screw it counterclockwise to increase forward slack. I have mine set at about 0.5mm from the microswitch. I find that if it actually touches the switch, it is too hard to walk because the isn't enough room to bounce back and you end up not firing as quickly. To remove the trigger, see below.

[color=orange-red]How do I change/remove/replace the trigger?:[/color] Locate the trigger pin (right above the trigger, duh). Lay your gun down so that side with the LCD is facing DOWNWARDS. This is crucial because you don't want to break the pin and have no trigger! Now take a thin strong dull object (such an an allen key, dull nail, one of those things designed to make nails go in far without damaging the wood, etc) and place the dull end over the silver trigger pin. Hit it with a hammer, lightly at first, and the pin should slowly come out. Now remove you trigger frame form the body (i.e. unscrew the two allen screws), and pull out the stock trigger. (*) Replace your trigger with the new one and put the pin back in the same way it came out (which means the little lines on the pin should be facing up when you put it back in).

[color=orange-red]How do I reduce the side-to-side trigger movement?:[/color] Follow the steps listed directly above, but stop when you get to the (*). Once there your going to have to do a bit of experimenting. Basically, the trigger move from side to side because there is excess room on each side. This is good because it takes a lighter pull because there is less friction to deal with. But it's also bad because it makes your gun feel kind of cheap and nasty. To get rid of it, you'll have to find some kind of extra thing washer or other spacing device. Put this in between once of the sides and the trigger. [It should be like |o[]| where | = a side, o = the washer, and [] = the trigger. The pin should go right through the middle of it all. Hope this helps.

[color=orange-red]How do I take out the bolt on my TES?:[/color] It's really easy, just uncock your marker, grasp the top cocking pin, and pull up really hard. Don't worry about breaking it, just pull hard. There's no need to unscrew it, because it uses a little ball-bearing to keep it in. To replace it, Place it back in the pin hole, and give it a tap on the top. It should go in about halfway, then move it back and forth so that it finds its way into the metal receiver in the hammer.

[color=orange-red]How do I take out the internals of my TES?:[/color] Locate the quick strip pin (#18 on the paper manual diagram) and push it out. The bolt (#5), striker (#12), main spring (#15), spring guide (#16), 'bumper' (#14) and the back plug (#17) should come out the back. Make sure to keep pressure on the back plug as all the internal contents are sprung and will shoot out the back if you let them. The quick strip pin has a sprung ball bearing to keep it in place (far better than the small flimsy, sharp, annoying pin on spyders). (Thank You Ivar Nelson) NEW!

[color=orange-red]How do I put the internals back in?:[/color] The eye will have to be turned off to replace the parts because the sear will catch the striker and stop it from going in. I just turn my gun so the barrel end faces downwards, with the striker assembly and bolt in the back, and pull the trigger a few times. The parts should glide back into place, with the exception of the back plug. Push that in, aligning the slit with the hole in the main body and replace the quick strip pin. You're done! (Thank You Ivar Nelson) NEW!

[color=orange-red]How do I take out the valve?:[/color] Ok, to start, remove all your internals (see above), take off your barrel, and remove the trigger frame from the main body (it's o.k. if it is still connected to it by the eye wire). Now remove your V/A (or Front Block #49 in manual) and the valve spring assembly. Now that you have everything disassembled, look on the bottom of the main body, and locate the brass valve screw. Using a flat head screwdriver (or a coin), screw it out counter-clockwise. Once removed, look down the lower tube in the main body and you'll see a partial blockade with only a small circle in the center un-blocked. Using a long, narrow, dull, soft object (I used a long pencil, eraser end in) push the valve out the front. This means put the pencil in the back where the back plug usually goes, and push forwards. With a bit of force, the valve should glide out. It is covered in oil, so don't handle it if possible, unless you plan on re-oiling it anyways (which is what I do, and is always a good idea). You have now removed the valve. NEW!

[color=orange-red]How do I put the valve back in?:[/color] Just slide it in where it came out, making sure that the smaller, more closed off end is facing inwards. Also be sure to align the valve's small female thread opening with the hole in the main body where the valve screw goes. Replace the valve screw (screw it in clockwise). Reassemble our marker (Insert the valve spring assembly, the V/A, all the internals and bolt, attach the trigger frame, and re-insert the barrel). NEW!


Last edited by mmsspaintball__ : 02-02-2004 at 04:17 PM.
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