Ok, you say that you have made your trigger pull as light as possible - this is most likely the cause of your trigger sticking. You need some tension in the trigger in order for it to move freely.
As for the 3-way, if you are getting blasts of air as the trigger moves back and forth, rather than a continuous leak, then this is perfectly normal - the 3-way valve is just venting the used air from the ram.
It shouldn't leak constantly, whether the trigger is pulled all the way back, or is all the way forwards.
If it is constant, then there are a number of reasons that a 3-way valve may leak: -
1. Your LPR pressure may be too low.
2. The 3-way may need cleaning and/or lubricating.
3. You may need to make a slight timing adjustment.
4. The o-rings may be worn and need replacing, or they may just be a loose fit.
5. The timing rod may be moving out of alignment with the 3-way valve. This can be solved with a more right angled rod (LAPCo make a good one), with an ASA equipped with a guide screw, or by mounting a PTFE o-ring on the far side of the timing rod (if it projects out of the side of the frame). You used to also be able to get timing rod guides, but these aren't made anymore - Belsales may still have a few left.
6. The front block may be twisted, putting the 3-way out of alignment.
7. The timing rod or 3-way shaft may be bent and need replacing. Alternatively, they may just be misaligned from when they were tightened together. The LAPCo timing rod has very tight fitting threads to avoid this misalignment.
8. Your trigger pull may be adjusted to a length too short to allow the 3-way to switch fully.
I need a little more info re the cocking rod - you say the back block moved but the cocking rod stayed still. Is it that it stays cocked, or that it will not remain cocked?
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