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Old 02-06-2001, 01:39 PM   #2
Old School
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Maryland
read disclaimer above please becasue this part is a little risky.

4. Polishing sear
Take your Dremel tool and a med grit sanding bit, or a med grit sandpaper and go over the top of the sear. That is the part that sticks out of your trigger frame.(the silver piece for those who don't know what a sear is ) Stop when there is a relative shine it. THEN, take a fine grit sanding bit or fine grit sandpaper and go over the sear again. After you are done, you should have a relative shine. Then, take the polish and go over the part you sanded with the polish and the applicator till there is a haze on the sear. let it dry, then buff off. Your sear should now be ALOT smoother. Also, you only need to polish the top half part of the sear. The bottom half does not touch the striker. By the top half, i mean that when you look at the sear, it has an angle in it. That bottom part, which is kinda in your trigger frame, does not need to be polished. Also, this is any option, but you can polish the sides of the sear too.

5. beveling the sear
If you look at the sear, the sides are at a 90* angle. REMEMBER for the next step, Moderation is the key. YOu don't want to overdo it, or it will DECREASE performance. Take your dremel tool and a grinding bit or a rough grit sandpaper and go over the long sides of the sear at a 45* angle. Do it so that it is noticable,but not too much. Also, if you want to, VERY VERY VERY slowly round off the short "wall" of the sear. You will want to do it only a VERY little bit.TOO much will ruin your sear, and you will have to get a new sear. It will make your gun into a paint blender, goin full auto every time you gas it up. If you do not feel comfortable doing this, don't do it. Beveling your sear will make your trigger pull feel cleaner and crisper.
Rounding your sear (short sid) will make the pull shorter, but if done wrong, the product is disasterous, so use caution.

6. Polishing the striker
IF you look at your striker, there is black anodizing on it. The part you want to polish is the part where it "dips" in. That is the part where the striker makes contact with teh striker. Take a fine grit sanding bit and your dremel tool, or just a fine grit sandpaper, and go over that strip until the metal shows cleanly. Then, take a REALLY fine grit sandpaper and go over it again. Take your polish and applicator and apply polish to that area. After, buff off.
There is an extra part, although i will warn you that if you do this wrong, you will need a new striker. If you look at your striker, The lip that is furthest from the Oring is where the sear goes up against in the cocked position. If you bevel that part VERY slightly, it will shorten trigger pull. If you take off too much, it will have the same effects as rounding the sear too much.

That is basically what i did to my trigger so far. Actually, there is one little thing, but that's a secret maybe i'll tell you a little later on..but i'm getting tired of typing. hehe hope this helped you guys
TL+, J&J Ceramic, Taso LPC/VA, Turbo valve, Shocktech Delrin bolt, custom trigger job, inline reg, running 350 psi.
Spimmy with Fenix body in the works
TLplus84 is offline   Reply With Quote