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Old 10-09-2001, 11:46 AM   #1
Grimoire
 
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Cool New Trigger Modification Article -- Now readable right here.

I've posted a new way to modify the Piranha trigger. It can be found in this article on my home-page.

It's a bit more permanent than some of the other methods floating around the 'Net.

Last edited by Grimoire : 10-18-2001 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 10-18-2001, 08:21 AM   #2
Grimoire
 
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An Externally Adjustable Trigger Stop for the PMI Piranha

Greetings folks. The moderator has kindly asked me to post the mod right here in the discussion group, so here it is. There are a few images in this post to illustrate the process, so it may take a while to load. Apologies to those with slower connections.

Pictures will be added to this article, as I get them done.
Future articles in the works:

Adjustable Trigger Undertravel
Adjustable Trigger Travel
Adjustable Trigger Position
Adjustable Droop Sight Mount

Feedback and questions can be sent to me via e-mail.

The PMI Piranha is a great paintball marker. It has good, useable performance out of the box and still leaves room
for the owner to tweak and upgrade, which for some of us is (at least) half the hobby.

This Article is concerned with tightening up the Piranha Trigger, specifically removing the "overtravel" between the point the gun fires and the point that the trigger stops travelling backwards. In the Piranha, there is no solid trigger stop, so the trigger continues travelling back until it touches the frame, or until your brain and fingers catch up with the fact that the marker has discharged. I prefer my trigger to have a hard, tactile stop immediately following the marker going off. For me, this makes multiple shots faster, and easier to hold on target.




After reading several excellent How-To articles on shortening the Piranha's trigger overtravel, I used the described method and added a free pin inside my trigger spring as a stop. After several repeats of "Attach frame, test trigger, detach frame, file" I filed a little too much off the end of the pin. I wasn't, therefore, totally happy with the trigger stop on my Piranha, but I was too lazy to start over. Additionally, the pin rattling in the gun always bothered me. I wondered if there was a way to approach the modification which would not require the repeated removal and re-attachment of the frame to find the right stop length, and a solution that would eliminate the rattle. The following procedure is what I came up with.

Note: It's come to my attention that a recent paintball magazine had a similar modification, but I came up with this one myself (It hardly takes a genius to figure out where to drill a hole to add a trigger stop). Enjoy.

WARNING!!!

You will certainly void any warranties you have on your gun with this modification. Making a mistake will almost certainly mess up your trigger, and may ruin your frame completely. You are going to be drilling holes in un-forgiving locations, so remember to measure twice and cut once. It's easier to avoid mistakes than fix them. Finally, I'm not accepting any responsibility for what you do to your marker, this is just information and I make no guarantees concerning your results.



When finished, there will be the (recessed) head of an adjustment screw visible just in front of your trigger. Removing overtravel is accomplished by turning the adjustment screw in until the cocked Piranha will not fire, then backing the screw out slowly with the trigger pulled until the marker fires. An extra quarter turn or two past this point will assure reliable firing with every trigger pull.

The priniciple advantage of this overtravel modification over the loose, internal pin-style of modification is that any later mods you make (for example, grinding the sear) which change the release point of the gun can be accounted for in the over-travel stop without removing the frame from the gun.

The principle disadvantage of this modification is that it is much less forgiving of a lack of precision during installation. If this mod is done sloppily, the adjustment screw can bind the trigger return spring and reduce the reliability of your trigger response.

You'll need an adjustment screw that will fit inside your trigger spring. I used a 8-32 X 3/8" Allen stainless steel set screw. The screw has to be long enough to act as a trigger stop and pass through the frame, without being so long that it protrudes in front of the trigger. An 8-32 adjustment screw fills up about 80% of the center volume of the spring, so it's about the largest diameter screw you can use. Use something thinner if you can find it--it will give you more leeway with your measurements.

You also need a drill-bit and tap you can use to produce a threaded hole in the frame that will admit the adjustment screw.



The hole is bored straight down along the (vertical) axis of the trigger spring, through the frame, creating a hole just in front of the trigger, inside the trigger guard.

This may seem obvious, but I'll say it anyway for the benefit of those who have never tapped a threaded hole before: the drill bit should be the same diameter as the central part of your screw (the part of the screw that would be left if you removed the threads). The tap will cut the threads into the sides of the drilled hole, enlarging it enough to admit the adjustment screw.

When drilling this hole, I strongly suggest you mount the frame in a drilling vise and use a drill press.

As with the other trigger modifications, remove the trigger pin and trigger spring from the gun. This can be accomplished with a thin rod (a nail with the point filed flat works nicely) and a hammer, tapping on the pin from the side of the frame with the safety button on it. It's not necessary to remove the trigger entirely from the frame, provided you can get it into a position where the drill bit will not damage it.

You should remove the grip panels from the frame to provide flat surfaces for the vise to clamp and hold. I also recommend removing the sear-release lever and the safety lever, as these parts are held in by the grips and can slip out during drilling, and always seem to fall into inaccessible cracks in your floor. Be careful not to lose the tiny ball-detente and spring for the safety lever (They fly quite far if you flip the safety with the grips off).

If you ignore my advice and use a hand drill, you should be aware of two problems:

The first problem a hand drill might cause is that the bit will wander some distance across the frame before it begins to cut, which may cause your hole to be off-center. This might cause the trigger return-spring to bind up on the screw's threads, preventing your trigger from re-cocking for the next shot. You can use a punch or awl to start the hole and minimise this problem, but a drill-press will not wander at all.

The second potential problem with using a hand drill is that the hole has to be parallel to (and, ideally, congruent with) the axis of the trigger return spring. Boring a non-vertical hole through the frame will result in the trigger-spring binding with the screw threads at certain adjustment ranges. This is bad, and nearly impossible to fix without filling in the hole with epoxy and re-boring. Trust me, that's more work than you need.

You can minimize these problems if you use a smaller-diameter screw, but why take the risk? Use a drill press and be sure. I'm sure someone in your neighborhood has one you can borrow. Who knows, the project might get them interested in paintball, and more players are always welcome.

Once the hole is drilled, tapping is fairly straightforward. Follow the guidelines provided with your tap.

Clean out any plastic scraps and dust that are left in the trigger action, re-assemble your gun and insert the adjustment screw into the hole in the bottom of the frame. It should go without saying that the screw mustn't be cross-threaded in the hole. (See my paragraphs on hand-drilling, above)

Tighten the screw until it prevents your gun from firing, then hold the trigger down and back the screw out until the gun fires. Back the adjustment screw out another quarter-turn or so to account for shot-to-shot variation in the release point of the sear and go play. If you find your gun doesn't fire every time you pull the trigger, you need to back the screw out a little more.


I've not had my adjustment screw change it's settings during play but if your screw is loose and this is a problem for you, wrapping the last few threads in teflon tape should tighten it up enough to hold its setting. Try to keep any teflon off the threads that are exposed, inside the trigger spring, as the tape might cause the spring to bind.

An extreme method to lock down the screw might include filling in the exterior hole with a sealing compound--use something that can be removed without applying heat or strong solvents if you don't want it to be permanent (A plastic frame is a delicate thing). If you've modified an aluminum frame, you can use a thread-locking adhesive.

---Stephen C. Wood Sept 7, 2001
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Old 10-19-2001, 05:28 PM   #3
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Thumbs up One more trigger mod (removable!)

This is another trigger mod which is easier to do. And it's removable if you decide to adjust or change it.

Point A adjusts the forward travel. Point B adjusts the trigger stop.

Point A:
Use a round bead or equivalent and tie it down with dental floss. Tighten it and knot it in place. You may move this carefully forward or back until you get the recocking just right. Fix in place using a little Crazy Glue.

Point B:
First measure about where your hammer fires then use a wooden dowel to fill in the space between your trigger and the frame. You can sand down the dowel until it is just right. Use epoxy to glue the dowel to the frame. Placement is important to minimize stress to the trigger. You want to place it at the 'peak' of the curve. Note the small amount of spacer material on the back of the trigger which mates to the dowel. If, for some reason, you want to get a little more out of the travel, you can put some plastic washers behind the trigger using double-sided tape. Cut a small disk the size of the washer to hold it in place.

The best thing is that you don't need to take the frame off to install it and you can adjust it in the field if necessary. (bring a fingernail file with you on the field!).

Hope this helps someone.

Note: This mod also works fine on the eForce grip. I got my travel down to 1/2 of the stock eForce trig travel. It's even easier on the eForce because the amount of travel to remove is much less; you only need to use a dab of epoxy on point B. Shave it down using a fingernail file. Now the whole travel is about 1mm. !G2 on steroids!.....
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Old 11-23-2001, 08:39 PM   #4
Grimoire
 
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Yes, these modifications only eliminate a few millimeters of trigger travel, that's true. So what?

My mod cost a total of 5 bucks, and that includes the cost of the tap and the drill bit. For five dollars, you aren't going to get electro-frame performance.

Like I said up top, for me it was also about the mushy finish on the trigger. That, and the fun of messing around with my toys (including my drill press).

No point? That's a matter of personal preference.

If you want a half-millimeter of trigger throw, by all means, go get one of the many wonderful electro-conversions on the market. For those of us with less coin (or an affection for purely mechanical solutions), there are trigger mods.
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Old 02-06-2002, 02:16 AM   #5
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Another trigger mod

This trigger mod is indented for those of you who have aluminum triggers. I tried doing this trigger mod (http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showt...threadid=20172) but I was unsuccessful seeing as how I couldn't get the pins out of my trigger frame. So I decided to drill a hole in my trigger and put a screw in it, its adjustable and works great. First thing I did was take my trigger off the frame then drilled a hole into the trigger from behind making sure not to drill all the way through the trigger, If you can, use a screw with a knurled end so you don't have to take the trigger off every time you need to adjust it, then put a piece of tape where the screw hits the frame so it doesn't scratch.
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Old 05-12-2003, 01:19 PM   #6
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i like to call this my gehto trigger job it can not mess up your gun permantly and is removable. all you need is some shoe string. wrap it behind the trigger ounce, (around the whole grip) and then cock the gun and pull the trigger slowly untill you feel some resistance. at this paoint pull the trigger forword some and tie the shoe lace going in front of the frigger and around the frame. test fire to make sure every thing is ok and you are done. pbreview is being stupid so if you want a pic look in the pic thread on page 12 its the 10th post down.
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Old 05-12-2003, 01:22 PM   #7
paitballboy455
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SERVO

could that screw mod work on a plastic frame and a plastic trigger?
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Old 05-12-2003, 01:40 PM   #8
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Re: SERVO

Quote:
Originally posted by paitballboy455
could that screw mod work on a plastic frame and a plastic trigger?
It could but the plastic wouldn't be as strong as the metal plus i think the plastic trigger is thinner than the metal one so i dunno how much material there is to thread into
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Old 05-16-2003, 06:31 PM   #9
Guillaume C.
 
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Yes it work on plastic frame
i used #8 bolt 32 thread per inch

but i did not tapper it whit tapper tool,just whit the bolt
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Old 06-06-2003, 07:12 PM   #10
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thx this worked great easly a couple more bps
i used the 2nd method with the bead and dowel but i got an improvement to ur method. at first i just glued it on but than i could turn the safety on. so this is wut u do
put the safety on and pull the trigger back as far as u can than glue the bead in front of it

Last edited by Shizzler : 06-07-2003 at 06:52 AM.
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Old 06-20-2003, 03:43 PM   #11
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hey does anyone out there know how i would go about replacing the trigger on an eforce 2k3? i was just wondering because i saw a guy that looked like he had a blade trigger or something put in his. i think a straight trigger like that would be pretty sweet.
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Old 07-25-2003, 01:16 PM   #12
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trigger mod...

I did the safer one lol...

How do I make these pictures bigger????
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Old 11-05-2003, 06:23 PM   #13
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this also works great u know the little sticky /0 on the insides of cabinet doors soo they wont bang. well go to a local store and they sell different sizes and once you find the right on just stick on the side on the trigger frame and it works great and its not perment and wont void any warrentes. and its all fully costamizable to any trigger pull length. hope u liek
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Old 12-30-2003, 11:50 AM   #14
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i just put layers of electrical tape behind my trigger and then in between the gap at the top of my trigger
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Old 02-12-2004, 09:31 PM   #15
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Just wanted to share what I have done. I did the set screw mod plus put a nut on it to eliminate more forward travel. Shaved down the edge of the trigger that touches the nut a bit too, just a tiny bit at a time till it would re-cock.



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Old 02-20-2004, 12:45 AM   #16
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I'm sorry I dont have a pic(I dont know how to put one on here yet) but I did something similar to my trigger but on my 2k2 E-Force trigger. I removed the tigger really carefully, first buy moving the circut board thats directly above it. Then I drilled a hole in the center of the trigger. The hole was smaller than the tap(a special bit that threads holes) I had bought and I then threaded the hole. Then I used a small allen screw I bought at a hardware store and put it in there. Now I have 2 points to adjust my electronic trigger.

WARNING: I totally butchered my trigger doing this. I sanded as many imperfections down as I could but it still looks a little messed. My frame still works and the trigger funtions just fine, I'm just saying be very carefull on how you go about doing this mod to your trigger and frame.

NOTE: This mod of mine can get you in some trouble. I have my trigger set just right so that it bounces like a mofo. I can pull a 4 shot burst faster than you can say "whoa". You have to respect power like this in order to use it properly. What I mean is that you MUST use your evil trigger bounce on: E-Blade Cocker, Timmy, Angel, and Matrix owners without discretion.

I'll try and post a pic shortly, good luck all.

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Old 05-24-2004, 01:53 PM   #17
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Just did my own version of a trigger job, on the piranhas mech, plastic trigger frame. 2mm pull, maybe even less!!! I cant post pics, but if you want me to explain, then ill try.
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"I pulled the trigger and got one out he couldn't figure out what happened the other guy looked around and asked what happened cuz the guns so quiet they didn't know i had shot. I shot the other and then did the same thing to the other 4 and ended up barrel tagging the last guy as he was cowering in fear in a bunker. this gun made shots from 300 feet away dead on.

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Old 08-19-2004, 02:32 PM   #18
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I just did a job on mine. I drilled a hole behind the trigger, from where it trips the sear, and i got a nail and cut off the head and a few millimeters below the head. I put that in the hole and on the bottom i soldered it, because i have the aluminum, i fugured that is stronger than any glue. So now the trigger slop behind the pull is almost entirely eliminated.
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Old 10-28-2004, 06:15 AM   #19
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trigger mod

Just did a trigger mod it is removable i used 1/2 inch cable wall tacks the plastic ones i put 2 of them otgether and created a trigger it makes a 1/4 of an inch less trigger pull so it works well i used som hot glue also sorry for no pic but i can find the camera cable for the digiltal carmera
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Old 10-28-2004, 03:20 PM   #20
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heres image

http://img71.exs.cx/img71/8915/PA280029.jpg
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