pbReview.com - Paintball Reviews and Paintball Fields

  Join pbReview.com  |  Log In  
pbReview.com - Paintball Reviews and Paintball Fields

Search:

  
Home     |     Paintball Articles     |     Paintball Videos     |     Paintball Gear     |     Paintball Fields     |     Paintball Stores     |     Hot Deals     |     Paintball Forums     |     Chat
Go Back   Paintball Forums > Specific Marker Forums > Dragun / Odyssey


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-18-2004, 07:46 AM   #1
TESballer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Ultimate Sticky Project / Moderator

Alright I would like to see an Ultimate Sticky go up covering everything, we already have a lot of tes stuff. We need stuff for all the other guns, if anyone wants to take a part to do, or something post here and we'll get someone (moderator) to put it together.

So, right now we have no moderator, (we're so good we don't need one ) got any suggestions, we don't have to much trouble in here, do you guys think we need one?
TESballer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2004, 11:39 AM   #2
Jenkins
Registered User
 
Jenkins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Worcester
Re: Ultimate Sticky Project / Moderator

Quote:
Originally posted by TESballer
So, right now we have no moderator, (we're so good we don't need one ) got any suggestions, we don't have to much trouble in here, do you guys think we need one?
Might be a good idea just incase, but at the moment not really

We should start by gathering up all the old threads that are of use, like schoolsukz08's upgrade thread for T1...T1 upgrade guide, stuff like that, 'cuz we have ALOT of stuff on the tes and not nearly as much on the other guns.
__________________
"To secure peace is to prepare for war"


Good luck in Iraq Dave
United States Marine Corps
Semper Fidelis

"Paintball kiddies cry that they want the FASTEST, LIGHTEST, and most EFFICENT marker".. a MARKER, is nothing but a TOOL, like a hammer or saw. Just because you own a hammer and a saw, doesn’t mean you can build a house…
Jenkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2004, 12:27 PM   #3
schoolsukz08
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
I'll be more then glad to help you guys put one together. Tb already has a nice base with his thread with a lot of links to threads, you could also throw in my different TES model thread too, I know it needs some updating, with the merge and split and everything. And for threads about other markers like T1, what where you thinking?
schoolsukz08 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2004, 06:33 PM   #4
PB_Matty
Ooohh...It's all sticky.
 
PB_Matty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: South Park, Colorado
Send a message via AIM to PB_Matty
Dragunfly Sticky Stuff!

The Dragun International Empire Dragunfly is a closed bolt design marker that borrows many design and most functional aspects from the Worr Games Product Autococker in it's many versions. Most closely the Dragunfly resembles the mini-cocker line due to the fact that the verticle ASA is located on the front block of the marker.

Dragunfly's and Autocockers are both closed bolt mechanical or hybrid electro markers that can most easily be described as being at the most basic level a pump gun that takes care of the pumping for you, sometimes at speeds in the 20 ball per second range as is the case for Dragunfly LCD's and the Eblade and many other electronic framed Autocockers.

Here is an animation of an Autococker at work, but it also is the Exact same way that Dragunfly's work. Understanding how something works is necessary for being able to maintain and trouble shoot as well as fix your marker if you have problems. http://www.pbreview.com/forums/attac...&postid=207044

Due to the fact that Autocockers and Dragunfly's function in the exact same way it is then possible to use all of the information presented in the Autococker forum for use hear as well. Please keep in mind tho that there are a very few differences in the markers (more on that later).

Here are some useful links from the Autococker mega-sticky originally authored by amzng_spyderman

General Faq
http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showt...threadid=25689

Timing an Autococker and how it works
http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showt...threadid=21717

Timing Trainer Program
http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showt...hreadid=182115

How to tune your Regs/velocity settings
http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showt...hreadid=173648

The leak thread
http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showt...hreadid=254673

Timing is an issue that often scares players off from purchasing an Autococker or similar marker, but need not be a horror story waiting to happen. The Dragunfly is shipped from the factory pre-timed so it should be ready to go from the moment you pick it up, If that is the case (which it seems to be most of the time) you won't have to worry about any timing issues unless you yourself un-time the marker.
There is a common misconception that leads people to believe that somehow their marker can somehow "magically" become un-timed. I've had one Dragunfly MECH and an Ebladed Mini- Black Magic Autococker and NEVER had to retime either one of them despite the fact that I had them both almost all of the way apart several times.
Bottom Line----Unless you are going to basically take the whole gun apart and put it back together you won't have to worry about timing....Dragun should take care of any timing issues if you don't feel comfortable tackling them if the gun comes to you in untimed condition.

-Co2 and the Dragunfly- Many potential Dragunfly consumers also seem to shy away from the gun due to the fact that they believe that they will have to get an expensive Nitro tank in order to use their new gun. This is not necessarily true....
The first Autocockers made were designed to run soley off Co2 as that was the only propellant available in the "old" days. Since then the overall basic design hasn't really changed that much untill the advent of the electronic Autococker. In short, running a Mechanical Autococker or the Dragunfly off Co2 isn't going to damage the marker in some mysterious way. Yes, you'll break more o-rings and soft parts and your shots might not be as consistent, but you aren't going to destroy your new investment by running Co2 through it. I would however strongly suggest anit-siphoning your Co2 tank and/or using a regulator that works well with Co2 (i.e. the Palmer's Stabilizer).
For the LCD and led Dragunfly's I would be sure to go ahead and spend a little extra for HPA. The higher rates of fire achievable by these markers means that the Co2 would be going through your gun much more quickly and therefore would pose a greater threat of freezing up parts and/or experiencing shootdown. Also I wouldn't like subjecting the sensitive electronic Solenoid to the potential negative side-effects that Co2 could have on it.

-----Upgrades-----

---Barrels---Everybody who knows can tell you that a good barrel will make a huge difference in the performance of any marker. In the world of closed bolt guns the barrel also serves another important function. Due to the fact that when a closed bolt marker is at rest the bolt is forward (closed to the feed tube) the paintball in the barrel is in front of the ball detent. If however your paintballs are significantly smaller than the bore size of the barrel your paint will simply roll down the barrel. This severely handicaps your snap-shooting game. Therefore it is increasingly crucial to buy a barrel kit with several different bore size backs so that you are capable of ensuring that this doesn't happen.

Some suggestions- Used Freak kits are getting rather inexpensive, Aci PHAT barrel systems seem to be going for far under msrp, and many other barrel systems are now readily available. ( A word of caution- some barrel kits have just a couple of inserts which are really large bore sizes and therefore aren't that helpful, 3A-which I'd avoid anyway, and the new Odyssey kits some to mind.
***Important- Dragunfly's take Spyder threaded barrels.

---Loaders---
Although this technically isn't an upgrade, it is important to the performance of your marker so I'll list it here. For Mechanical markers I would go ahead and shell out the $40-50 for an Empire reloader or 12 volt revvy. Some people might not think that an electronic loader is necessary for a mechanical closed-bolt gun, but keep in mind that closed bolt guns don't feed nearly as efficiently as open-bolt guns. I had to play with my Dragunly with a vl200 once and it just about drove me nuts.
For electronic versions a fast loader is a must, I'm a firm Evo II fan (especially for the Z-boarded version), but Halos will work well too. The LCD and led's don't have eye's like an E-blades so a fast hopper has to be fast and consistent.


---Feed Necks---
Clamping feednecks aren't something that's immediately though about when upgrading a marker, but they give you the advantage of being ably to fit any type of loader without having to worry about sanding it or it being to lose. There is nothing worse than losing your hopper on the field because of a loose feedneck.

Lapco makes clamping feednecks to fit Spyder markers and I believe they will fit Dragunfly's as well...look for the one that has feet that are heald in place by screws rather than the screw-on type or the screw through feet type.


---Bolts---
Basically a bolt doesn't do much...Delrin bolts are lighter so your cocking mass is somewhat lighter so you can have a higher rate of fire and less kick. If you have a JAM bolt don't worry about any upgrade here. If you don't, get the JAM bolt. It does work quite nicley.


---Internals---
I still think I heard somewhere that Dragunfly's have high flow Spyder-size valves. I'm still trying to confirm this, but if so than you could look into the MANY upgrade valves available for Spyders.

Suggestions: Maddman Rocket valve, AKA valve....

I'll also check into hammer compatability as well as velocity adjuster and cocking rod compatability.


---Pneumatics---
Unfortunately if you have a Mech it seems that you are stuck with the three-way that comes with the gun. I don't see why this is a huge issue, but some people like to change them.
I think that Autococker rams and LPR's are compatible.
QEV's would also be a good upgrade for LCD's.


---Regulators---
The Dragunfly will accept any HPR. For Co2 use get the Palmer's Stabilizer. For HPA just get one that you like. The Bob Long Torpedo, WGP Black Magic, and ANS regs are all great, consitent regulators.


---Trigger Frames---
The hinge trigger frame by WGP will work if you want to replace your mech's frame, there are other's that may work as well with a little tweeking and or modifications.

For those who don't mind the stock frame too much but don't like the stiffness of the trigger pull, just go ahead and clip about a quarter of an inch off the trigger spring and stretch it out and then put it back in place. Also I found that wd-40ing the workings of the trigger before playing helped to smotth out the pull.

Also, I've seen Dragunfly's with Eblades on them, so it is possible....
__________________
As inoffensive as I wanna be
www.fusionowners.org

That's where my $ went sale http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...6#post26468476
PB_Matty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2004, 07:04 PM   #5
TESballer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
nice work PB_Matty thanx
TESballer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2004, 07:57 PM   #6
PB_Matty
Ooohh...It's all sticky.
 
PB_Matty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: South Park, Colorado
Send a message via AIM to PB_Matty
My pleasure.

If there are any blaring spelling/grammar errors please let me know. I hate checking my own work, I do enough of that in college.

And if anybody would like to add anything constructive please be sure to do that as well.
__________________
As inoffensive as I wanna be
www.fusionowners.org

That's where my $ went sale http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...6#post26468476
PB_Matty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 04:18 PM   #7
TESballer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Dragunfly Upgrades

This is based on what PB_Matty said, but gives some links, anyone feel free to PM me, because im only going on what others have said. Also if you want me to add anything just PM.

Feednecks

Spyder feednecks work the ones that say “no holes” are the ones that fit.

Lapco Spyder Feed Neck

New Designz Spyder Clamping Low Rise Without Holes

Vaporworks Spyder Kingman Vertical Feed

Cocking Rods

All autococker cocking rods will work

LPR

Autococker LPR’s work

Grips

45 frame grips on the Mech

Ram

Autococker rams fit, but if you replace the ram you have to replace the coupler and the pump rod.

KAPP FAT Ram, Cocker, Black

Shocktech A/C Ram

Bolt

Dragunfly JAM Bolt

I’ve heard different stories some saying that any autococker bolt will work and only STO style bolts work, well here are some STO bolts.

AKA STO Lightning bolt

White Wolf Airsmithing makes a STO blitz bolt here

Hammers

Autococker hammers work.

ANS A/C Hammer Kit

Velocity screws

Autococker Velocity screws work

KAPP Autococker Rear Vel. Adjust Screw

Springs

Autococker springs work

Some springs at paintballgear.com here

Valves

High Flow Spyders work.

AKA Spyder Tornado Valve

Maddman Kingman Rocket Valve

32 Degrees Spyder Turbo Valve

Mech Frame

Autococker Hinges

Worrgames Autococker Hinge Trigger Frame

Dye Autococker 2Finger Hinge Trigger Frame

Beavers

Dragunfly Beavertail

Last edited by TESballer : 11-26-2004 at 06:16 AM.
TESballer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 04:20 PM   #8
PhatTonyDeMarco
Toke Toke Toke Toke
 
PhatTonyDeMarco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Florida


dont you guys have lives to attend to?
PhatTonyDeMarco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 04:52 PM   #9
TESballer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Quote:
Originally posted by PhatTonyDeMarco


dont you guys have lives to attend to?
i've been working on that ever since i started this thread, i worked on it little by little, its not that hard if you know how to type and make hyperlinks
TESballer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2004, 01:34 PM   #10
p8nter24
best run blue man
 
p8nter24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: stillwater, MN
what?????

i thought paintball players were all low lifes........but i guess not..........i should probibly leave and find a life to attend to.

you dont have to read this thread if you dont want to.
__________________
-------------------- 9 Cassette Club? ----------------------
bInformal Member of The Wolf Pack d
p8nter24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2004, 01:43 PM   #11
TESballer
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
does anyone have anything they want to add, mainly the t1, drallion, and all the new guns from odyssey
TESballer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2005, 03:50 PM   #12
DarkeWolf
Registered User
 
DarkeWolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The "Killing Fields" of Kansas City
very very nice thread, thanks for showing me this TESballer
__________________
If you want NPS to lose the current legal case against Draxxus, show the love! Borrow my avatar! Keep the Pulse!

---Dragun T-1 Green--68/4500 DXS--evo2 w.Z board--RMR KillStick--CP Reg--12" J&J Edge Kit/12" Evil Pipe---
---Dragun Drallion Blue--68/3k crossfire--evo2 w.Yboard--14" Evil Pipe--E2'd--44mag+QEVs -- SCM3-AKA Sidewinder---
---Dragun TES Blue/Black ---- Dragun T-1 Black-- Parts ---
A paintball community PBO! SundragonPPS.com
www.scenariodreams.com Evo2 Battery Door Mod
DarkeWolf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2007, 11:34 AM   #13
DarkeWolf
Registered User
 
DarkeWolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The "Killing Fields" of Kansas City
Converting to an Eblade
As most of us know, the front block on a dragunfly will not work with an eblade type solenoid, because of the way that the housing mounts. AND that a standard autococker front block will not fit on a dragunfly.

soooooooo...... here's some information on how to convert over a dragunfly to an eblade.

-The gripframe. There shouldnt be any problem with the gripframe itself. The body will mount just about any wgp compatible frame. You MIGHT have to stretch out the sear-spring just a little bit to keep the sear having a tight grip on the hammer lug tho.

-The solenoid. The stock dragun solenoid WILL work with the eclipse frame and board, however, the jack that connects it to the electronic board is different than the eclipse jack. So you can just cut off the jacks a couple of inches of the wire before the jack, and splice them in (preferably with solder on the wires).

OR

-You can mount the eclipse solenoid to the front block by making a modification to the front block. This will require drilling and tapping the front block with a threaded hole for the eclipse solenoid housing. But you will have to be careful....DO NOT drill or thread into the area where the air passages are for the lpr!
The information that I received from Eclipse today on what the tap that you would need for the job is this-
Code:
The thread size that you are looking for is: 15/32" - 32tpi. If you wish
to order a tap for this thread you can do so at: www.McMaster.com 
part no: 2595a235.
It is currently running for $34.43 thru them, and is a specialty thread. They have a search box that is currently up in the top-left corner (requires java enabled in the browser to use the search) and it can be found on their site by typing or CnP'ing the part number into the search box.

I hope that this is helpful
__________________
If you want NPS to lose the current legal case against Draxxus, show the love! Borrow my avatar! Keep the Pulse!

---Dragun T-1 Green--68/4500 DXS--evo2 w.Z board--RMR KillStick--CP Reg--12" J&J Edge Kit/12" Evil Pipe---
---Dragun Drallion Blue--68/3k crossfire--evo2 w.Yboard--14" Evil Pipe--E2'd--44mag+QEVs -- SCM3-AKA Sidewinder---
---Dragun TES Blue/Black ---- Dragun T-1 Black-- Parts ---
A paintball community PBO! SundragonPPS.com
www.scenariodreams.com Evo2 Battery Door Mod

Last edited by DarkeWolf : 02-19-2007 at 12:00 PM.
DarkeWolf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2007, 01:33 PM   #14
MecTurtleCocker
I want my..I want my MTV
 
MecTurtleCocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SoCal
Also, a little ninja add on to Darke's post, this is something I have implemented on my Dragunfly.

I was lucky enough to find a stud in the appropriate threads for this, you will have to bring your front block into the hardware store to find the threads.

What you want to do is get a Trilogy adapter for an Eblade, and then solder it onto the stud, which should be screwed into the front block. Bam, instant Eblade/Race noid adapter, and you don't need to permamently modify your Fly.
__________________
MS Paintoff OG
f2f4: You rock my socks hon.
Robomonkey: MTC is teh awesome.
Crede777: I stay invisible so I don't get my butt handed to me by Mec.
Evil_Wayz: I heard that watching Mec argue was a beautiful thing to behold, but I didn't believe it til now.
GrimAssasin: wow....mtc does have a way with words. ..
mjr_paranoid: There is a difference between juvenile sniping and annoying with style. You definately attack with style Mech.
MecTurtleCocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Help / FAQ  |  Contact Us  |  About Us  |  Advertising Info  |  Link to Us  |  Privacy Policy  |  Terms of Use
Top

Paintball Review

Copyright © 2000-2007 Hillclimb Media