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Old 12-28-2006, 04:59 PM   #1
darktrooper5
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Exclamation Proto Matrix Rail- Questions Answered!

So in lew of the apparent phenomenon regarding the PMR, I've decided that its a good idea to have a unifying, thread answering questions and busting myths. I have owned a Rail in the past, right when they came out, have owned 6 Matrixes, and am a tech for Pev's Paintball. I sell 2+ Rails a week and fix them on a regular basis.

What is a Rail?

The Rail is a low cost option for anyone who has been wanting a Dye/Proto marker but can't pay the Dye/Proto price. In short, an Ion competitor.

How much does it cost?

The Rail retails for $399.99.

Is the Rail a Matrix? Is it like an Ion? Like the Mini?

The Rail is a matrix, it has a very similar yet different bolt design to the DM and PM line of Markers.

What is recommended for the PMR? LP or HP?

Either air system arrangement will work perfectly fine. C02 is unaccpetable for this marker and should not be used under any circumstance.

What hopper is recommended?

You can use a VL200 or anythingthing else, but to get the absolute best out of your PMR, snag a Pulse/ Velocity(Jr)/ Halo/ Realoader B(2)

What makes the Rail different from a normal DM/PM?

The Rail has composite parts and an newer bolt design that is exclusive to the PMR. The Rail is the first Dye/Proto Matrix to not have a Low Pressure regulator.

I was looking at the PM7 and then at the Rail and they look quite similar...

They do have some things in common, the Hyper2 reg, eye cover styles, the board, the eyes, even the boxes they come in are very similar. As with the "goodies" they come with.

The Rail doesn't have an lpr, is that bad?

Not really, the Rail's new bolt design allows for extra air to be held in reserve and in turn that helps the rechrage rate and prevents shootdown. Sadly, since there is no lpr, all you monkey's with an allen key can't turn down/up your lpr pressure. That means less tweaking, what Dye wanted.

Composite Parts? Like Plastic? That sounds terrible.

Actually only the frame, trigger, feedneck ring and eye covers are the major parts are composite. Plastics and such are some of the most durable materials on Earth, we use them in every day life and sometimes our lives depend on thier durablity.

Will my parts break on me?

If you can't control your anger and turn into the Incredible Hulk, its possible. You would really try to break things in this case. But nasty slides have been know to break and bend metals during nasty sildes with markers.

I heard that the PMR is inefficent, is that true?

Compared to Excals and Vikings, any gun looks inefficent. In terms of versus other high end markers, the Rail will be less efficent than them. The entire Matrix line are gas hogs, from the Dm4 to the Dm7. The Rail needs some time to be "broken in" before real efficency numbers can be shown. Give the marker some time. Take into account the weather and paint to bore match, along with barrel porting.

My PMR's solenoid won't click!

Check the dwell settings, they should be set at 25. Check the battery as well. The PMR uses a fairly new solenoid to the Dye line, its the "brother" of an Intimidator noid DO NOT TAKE IT APART. If you have serious issues with your noid, contact Dye/Proto. The next possiblity is that you board is DOA, call Dye/ your pro shop and see about a free replacement(if its dead out of the box)

Should I change my dwell to tune my gun to get more shots out?

No, leave the dwell at 25 unless you get an aftermarket bolt, or the weather gets colder( 50 degrees and below). As your gun breaks in, you cna lower the dwell a couple ticks to help out. Dye/Proto markers work amazing with the dwell stock.

My PMR's bolt cap keeps unscrewing.

Put your bolt cap on right! there is a protruding grub screw on the bolt cap and has to be lined up correctly for everything to work. Hand tighten then use an allen key to snugly make sure the cap is in tight. Don't overtighten the cap, stripping it will not be good!

My PMR's bolt is staying forward and leaking air when I first shoot it.

Chances are your HPR is too high which is blowing the inner tophat o-ring. Replace and lower pressure on Hyper 2. The o-ring that goes in the inner tophat is a 014. Its tough to get in there, keep trying.

My Hyper 2 seems to be jump around on velocity when I touch it lightly

The Hyper2 reg is VERY touchy out of the box and is like this normally. It is VERY IMPORTANT to use small turns on your reg, over pressurizing is bad, so is under pressurizing. This is how leaks form and markers "die". Give your Hyper2 a small turn is the desired direction, then give 2-3 clearing shots, then rechrono.

My PMR is slow, I hate it.

The markers seem to be coming out of the box capped with the eyes off at somewhere around 12. Go into the settings mode and raise your ROF to 20 clicks! Thats 30 BPS.
*Another thing to do is to lighten up that trigger pull, taking the spring out from the trigger is a good idea, but as DYE puts it will result in "microswitch wear". I've found in my other markers that it takes a long time for the switch to wear out.
* Try using a faster hopper as mentioned up higher. If you have one, check the batteries and settings on that hopper.
* Its possibly that your bolt and HYper2 reg need cleaning, maintain them.
* Check your battery
* Get faster fingers
* See about buying a new trigger that fits you better.

Whats this all about a secret mode?

There is indeed a 4th mode on the Rail, its not in the manual though. NXL is the fourth setting, just click the trigger four times when in the mode menu.

My PMR's wiring is crappy, mine broke while trying to change the battery

Thsi is a very common issue on the Rails, IMO the frame is too small, the wiring is too low quality and the board placement is not freindly. If yours breaks, a DM4/5/C and PM 5/6/7 microswitch and battery harness will work.

What is the first upgrade I need?

A metal back cap. That is the number 1 upgrade you should buy for your Rail, next a trigger, a new trigger can open up your ROF and make your marker more comfy to shoot.

This guide didn't answer all of my troubleshooting questions, thats lame!

It shouldn't be doing that anways, read your manual, stare at the diagrams, like you would the SI Swimsuit edition. Come on, nobody does a better job with manuals than DYE.

What upgrades can I snag for my PMR as of Dec 28th, 2006?

NDZ makes a variety of upgrades such as a new trigger and an all metal bolt cap, which sounds grand. DYE should have a cornecopia of upgrades out for the PMR, keep your eyes open. Expect Tadao and Virtue to make aftermarket boards and such. I suspect that there will be tons of upgrades out soon enough. And in true DYE Fashion, the Ultralite Frame has been made for the PMR retailing at $199.99

As of April 24th 2007, what upgrades are out there for the PMR?

New Designs has done a frame and made metal parts for all the compostie ones, Tadao and Virtue have come out with their board versions. Dye/Proto had released a variety of triggers and all-metal parts. As mentioned before, the Ultralite frame is out as well. Custom Products also has released various items for the Rail.

What is the PMR Special Edition?

The Special Edition is a Rail that has all of Dye's metal alloy upgrades already on it, new back cap, metal feedneck, proto two peice barrel, trigger,eye plates, colored ASA, trigger guard, reg asa. The preformance is the same, just has metal parts instead of composite. The MSRP for a Special Ed. is $499.99. The current colors are Black with Blue/Silver/Red.

The Rail is a solid marker when taken care of, its a beastly little guy thats affordable. Treat it well and it will give you some great times on the feild of play!

Last edited by darktrooper5 : 07-08-2007 at 09:27 PM.
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