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Old 03-15-2007, 04:22 PM   #1
heysueskreesto2
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COMMUNITY THREAD: Ion Settings, Dwell, ROF, Efficiency, Etc.

A shorter, more condensed, amazingly pimptastic version by Hawkeye1050 can be found HERE!!!

Well, a few months ago, there was a mass surge of threads requesting help on setting dwell and ROF. It was at that point that I offered to Uziel Gal to make a sticky for such requests with information on stock settings, efficiency, and of course, adjusting the settings.

Since then, I have had a lot of homework, projects, etc. for school and of course, sports. So I apologize for the delay, although many of you probably don't care. Its now the weekend and I am ready to finish this thing. Sorry this has taken so long.

Lets start out with the multiple purposes of this thread.

Purpose:
  • To eliminate threads asking about what to set dwell, ROF, and other such settings to, and how the process of changing them on your stock board.
  • To inform the newer ion owners of the performance of their new guns on stock settings.
  • To inform the general ion-owning public of what upgrades are the best when increasing efficiency, and how drastically they will affect it.
  • To eliminate threads like "How do I increase my Ion's efficiency?" (goes with the above).
  • To provide multiple links to helpful sites concerning settings.
  • To provide all users a place to post questions about settings, approximate settings, etc. on their own guns, with their own specifics upgrades.
    • E.g. I have an Ion with a Techt L7 Ion Bolt, Smart Parts 360 QEV, Lucky Stage 2 Firing Can, and Lucky Stage 3 Rear Donut. What should I set my settings to and approximately how many shots will I get from a __CI /__PSI Tank?
Now that the purpose has thus been established, I will now include information on how this thread should work.

How This Thread Works:
  • Users read the information provided in this thread and adjust their guns accordingly
  • All questions regarding settings and how to improve them should be posted here
  • Other more-knowing users, mods, and of course, me will provide answers to suggested settings and other questions asked of efficiency and settings. Aftermarket boards are not my forte when asking about settings, lol.
Basically, all this thread is is a guideline on settings and efficiency, and then a sort of sub-forum to accommodate specific questions. It will require some participation on everyone's part to help answer all the questions.

But, let's get started shall we?


Dwell

Defined as the amount of time the solenoid remains open after the trigger is pulled, allowing air to flow to the essentials. The solenoid is the red coil on your board. In many other guns, the solenoid is contained within a case to prevent damage/dirt contamination. Dwell is measured in milliseconds and is adjustable on the stock board starting at 8ms and then raising .5 ms for every blink up from the bottom. The stock setting for dwell is 52 blinks from the bottom (34 ms). When the solenoid is open, pressurized air flows through it to the bolt, pushing it and the paintball forward. Dwell basically "translates to how long the bolt will stay forward" and to how long it takes the bolt to get there.

When cruising the forums or future responses to this thread, one will notice much attention being paid to achieving the lowest dwell possible. But what does this really do?

Advantages to having a low dwell:
  • Better Efficiency! Think about it, the less time the solenoid has to remain open to fire the paintball, the less air used to complete the operation.
  • More BPS! The less time that the bolt remains forward/takes to fire the ball, the more shots you will achieve in a second.
Disadvantages to having a low dwell:
  • Less consistency. Having too low of a dwell will injure the consistency of your gun.
  • Shootdown/Drop-Off. If you set your dwell too low, you will experience shootdown. Shootdown is an extreme difference in the fps (feet per second) of the paintballs you fire. Basically, if you start walking your trigger, after the first one or two shots, your shots will die. They won't go near as fast as the previous and won't travel nearly as far.
But good news for you! These disadvantages can be completely avoided if you set your dwell properly, which will be explained in the next section....


How to Set Your Marker's Dwell


Here it is, the steps to properly programming your marker's dwell:
  1. Pressurize your gun to 150-180 psi, whatever it's normally at.
  2. Bottom out the dwell on your board.
  3. Gradually increase the dwell of the marker, taking a few shots between adjustments. Increase the dwell until the marker is fully cycling (shots are loud, sound is consistent between them). Please note that with a bone stock ion, you will have to adjust your dwell to a very high number of blinks (48-52 blinks), however with a QEV installed, the dwell is normally around 8-16 blinks from the bottom.
  4. Once you have the gun fully cycling, up the dwell 3-6 blinks to make sure all of your shots will be consistent and you won't suffer from drop-off. Adjust your pressure and make additional changes to dwell at chrono.
(Information on the physical process of setting the dwell- pushing the buttons- can be found at www.zdspb.com, one of the stickys, or in your ion manual)
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Last edited by heysueskreesto2 : 03-15-2007 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:23 PM   #2
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Dwell Lowering Devices

There are certain parts that, when installed, will allow you to lower your dwell, allowing for a major increase in efficiency and rate of fire. The most well known of these devices is the Quick Exhaust Valve, or QEV for short. As stated above, the QEV allows a huge drop of dwell, from the stock 52, down to numbers as low as 6-16 (varies from gun to gun and QEV to QEV). The QEV replaces the middle banjo, and will also help you gain higher rates of fire. It works by venting excess air during firing. This air normally goes back to the solenoid, and can slow the process down. An animation of how it works from Ydna at www.zdspb.com is found here (you have to copy and paste into your browser- sorry):

http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/animations/ionqev_v2_15fps.gif

There are many types/styles of QEV’s. One of the most popular QEV’s is the Smart Parts 360 QEV. Many users prefer this QEV because it is installed like a normal banjo fitting, with an allen wrench. Plus, almost no fitment cases (where the stock body must be modded a bit to fit the QEV) have been reported.

Another way to lower the dwell of your marker is to buy an aftermarket bolt. There are many different brands of aftermarket bolts to choose from, and it’s important to look at the reviews when/if you decide to buy one. Aftermarket bolts are lighter than the stock bolt and usually provide greater airflow. The lightest bolt currently out is the TechT L7, which weighs in at 8.5 grams. Other well-known bolts are the TechT L6, TechT Lightening, Orange Nano, Smart Parts Firebolt, and the Warrior SL Ion Bolt. There are many others out there, and more information is provided in the reviews.

But, how do these bolts help one achieve lower dwells and increase efficiency? Well, the answer is quite simple- by being lighter. It takes a lot less air pressure to push forward a 16-gram bolt and a paintball forward than it does the stock 32.6-gram bolt and a paintball. In fact, some people with the QEV/L7 Bolt combination have reported dwells of 0 on their stock board. Also, most aftermarket bolts have a two tail-o-ring design. This design seals the firing chamber during the process of shooting, stopping excess air from being wasted. Dwell drops from bolts vary, depending on the bolt you are using. It is usually only a few blinks on the stock board.

Two other upgrades you can buy to maximize efficiency are aftermarket firing cans and rear donuts. There are currently only two companies that make these, which are Lucky Paintball and New Designz. Many people say that these two parts are more cosmetic upgrades than performance, as you can order them in different colors to match the color of cut-through aftermarket or modded stock bodies better, and efficiency gains are not usually that huge, or sometimes even discernible from the stock parts. These aftermarket parts are also lighter than the parts they replace by a few grams.

Please note that the Lucky Firing Can, or Stage 2, has a built in o-ring in the rear, so two tail-o-ring bolts will not work as well, and it is suggested you buy a bolt with one o-ring on the tail, as that then equals the two o-ring suggested. This is not a real problem, as most companies offer bolts with the one tail o-ring to fit this firing can, and on most bolts you can just remove one of the o-rings on the tail.


ROF/Recharge

I am going to start off this section by saying that the words “ROF” and “Recharge” are interchangeable. They are the same exact thing. I think it was a stupid move made by Smart Parts to label Recharge as Rate of Fire, as it does confuse some of the less-experienced users out there, and has caused a lot of misconception on this forum, as well as many others. For your sake, I want you to think of Rate of Fire as Recharge, as Recharge better explains the purpose of the setting.

Anyway, Recharge is defined as the amount of time that your marker is forced to wait after the dwell has expired before it is allowed to fire again. Essentially, this setting just adds time to the length of the firing process. It has NO effect on how the marker fires, nor on the recoil, efficiency, consistency, etc. of your marker. It only affects the Rate of Fire your gun can achieve, by adding that time to the firing cycle. Basically, the lower you set your recharge, the faster your marker will be able to shoot.


As stated above, ROF is essentially Recharge. Smart Parts labeled this setting as Rate of Fire because that is what the setting affects. It only affects how fast your gun can shoot. That was their logic, I believe. However, the word recharge much better describes the setting, because that is what it is. How long you are making you marker wait after completing firing before it is allowed to shoot again. My opinion is that this setting can only effectively be used as a cap on how fast you shoot. There are two major ideas on how to set your ROF, and I will go into each of them. Along the way, I will also provide information on the setting of ROF.

The 48 Rule

The 48 Rule, as some call it, has caused many misconceptions across the ion community on how to set your board. This rule basically calls for the user to set their dwell and recharge so that when added together, they equal forty-eight. For example, if you set your dwell to equal 40 blinks, the rule calls for you to set your recharge to 8 blinks. 40+8=48. Another example is that if you have your dwell set at 16, you should set your recharge at 32, as 16+32=48. I am going to say this once, and ONLY ONCE. This rule IS NOT THE FASTEST SETTING FOR YOUR MARKER. All that the 48 rule does is cap your marker at 17 bps, which the stock board already does. So, personally, I think that the rule is somewhat pointless. What I recommend you do is set your dwell according to the previous instructions and then your ROF to 0, as recommended by the following “0” Rule. It is simpler, and will give you the same BPS on your stock board. I do not want to get into aftermarket boards, but I’ll say that most aftermarket boards have built in programmable caps to your BPS and tournament locks making it much easier to cap your marker for tournaments, etc.
If you want to cap your Ion at a lower BPS than 17, the following link takes you to a site that can help you figure out the Dwell/ROF combo that will get you at that rate. Input your current dwell and than adjust the ROF till you get your desired speed. This site works for the stock board and Blackheart board.
http://www.warpig.com/paintball/tech...arts/ion_calc/

The “0” Rule

The “0” Rule is really the way to go by, in my opinion. This rule calls for one to set their marker to a recharge of 0, no matter what the dwell is set to. Now this setting will allow you to shoot as fast as your dwell and internals allow. Of course, on the stock board, you are still capped at 17 bps, making it and the 48 Rule work the same. But this one is a lot simpler and easier to maintain. If you change your dwell, you don’t have to go change your recharge as well. On aftermarket boards, however, you will be shooting much faster than the 48 Rule. As fast as your dwell will allow. Essentially, unless you capped your board/your board has a cap, your dwell is your cap, and your recharge does nothing. Think about it. Upping your recharge adds time to the firing cycle. If your recharge is at 0, then the firing cycle time will be shorter, allowing for more shot per second. Please, take a look at the image below, provided by Ydna:

As you can see, as you up your recharge setting and/or dwell setting, you increase the total time of the firing process. Longer time=less possible shots per second. Imagine if you set you recharge setting to 0. You would be cutting quite a few ms off the firing cycle, and would be left with just the dwell (and lowest recharge setting on the board) limiting how fast you shoot. With the 48 rule, you will always be at the same amount of time for the firing cycle.

Also, most aftermarket boards have programmable caps to your BPS and built in tournament locks that allow the user to cap their marker anyway. The 0 Rule and a cap on your marker are much easier to work then the shifting of dwell and ROF.

How to Set your Recharge

You can see how confusing this subject is. Here's how you set it:
Quote:
Open the guns grips and press the gray Programming button.
  1. Push the gray programming button until you reach the Single Blink Red setting.
  2. Now push the power button multiple times until the yellow led in the grip frame stops blinking.
  3. To exit the programming mode, push the trigger once. After pushing the trigger, turn the board off to save the settings. If you pull the battery, the new setting will revert back to whatever it was last set to.

Last edited by heysueskreesto2 : 05-30-2007 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:24 PM   #3
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Final Comparison

My opinion on this subject is that there is no comparison. The “0” Rule is faster and easier to use. No complicated calculations. Although the two both offer the same performance/speed on the stock board, as the stock board is capped at 17 bps anyway, the “0” Rule is just easier to use, because you only have to adjust your dwell when making changes. You can set your recharge once, and forget about it. On aftermarket boards, I would highly recommend using the “0” Rule, as it allows for maximum bps, and if you want to cap your board, you can do this by simply messing with the bps cap setting. The “0” Rule is just much easier to use and offers more performance than the “48 Rule”. However, in the end, it is YOUR choice. This is MY opinion.


Final Thoughts

That’s about all you are going to need to set your dwell and recharge on your ion. Now, the other idea of this thread was to provide a field where users could ask about settings, recommended settings with certain upgrades, if they’re getting good efficiency numbers, and what sort of efficiency their guns will produce with certain settings off certain tanks. Now before any of you get started, I am going to point out a few more things:
  1. No one can tell you what your dwell should be set at. We can only provide a range derived from the dwells reported from other users. The only true way to find the best dwell for you is to set it yourself, following this guide, or the one found on www.zdspb.com.
  2. Efficiency numbers range from gun to gun. Some people can get their ions to a dwell of 0 on the stock board with a TechT l7 Bolt and Smart Parts 360 QEV, while others may only be able to get a dwell as low as 12 with that set-up. Dwell and efficiency vary from gun to gun. Believe it or not, no gun is the same.
One last thing: I do not want this turning into a product comparison thread. Users may offer their opinions on what set-ups are the best, but I do NOT want to see a bunch of questions such as, “Does Bolt A or Bolt B offer better efficiency?” and “Which QEV performs the best out of all the ones available?” That’s what the reviews are for, and such questions have most likely been asked a thousand times in the past. Search first. If you end up uncertain, then we may field such questions.

I also will not be talking about the efficiency gains from the Lucky MAC Solenoid as of now, because I really haven’t heard much about this, and I believe that any gains reported are not large enough to worry about. I don’t even know if such claims are true, as Lucky says nothing about this solenoid offering better efficiency. I will mention that this solenoid however, is faster than the stock solenoid, uses less power, has metal barbs, and a greater flow than stock. At least this is what Lucky and the maker of the solenoid say. Oh, and I am boycotting Lucky products due to the closing of the U.S. branch. I will only use products from Lucky originating from before this move. This move has left the great people we loved at Lucky jobless and in distress. It has also somewhat screwed over some customers. I am sorry if you disagree with my opinion on this.

Special Thanks

I would like to offer my special thanks to Kolder from PbNation, Uziel Gal from here on PBReview, and to Ydna and his website for providing much of this information. Their knowledge just blows my mind. Keep up the good work guys.
--ghtpDM5 for the link to the Warpig site--
--And lastly, Hawkeye1050, for his shorter version he posted before me.--

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Last edited by heysueskreesto2 : 05-30-2007 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:25 PM   #4
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Stock Ion Settings
It is recommended that you keep a performance stock ion at where it is under the settings. The dwell is set to 52 blinks when you buy the gun, and the most you'll be able to lower that is a few blinks, not enough to make a difference/worry about it/offer an up in performance. The stock settings work perfectly fine and changing your dwell may cause you some shootdown problems. My recommendation is to keep the settings where they are. The most you can do really is just bottom out the ROF.

**NOTE**: If anyone finds anything wrong with this thread (bad info), please inform me, either here, or by PM. It has been looked over by me and Uziel, so it should be pretty good. Thanks for your help and future cooperation.

Oh, and by the way, bacon wrapped steak filets are just plain delicious.
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Last edited by heysueskreesto2 : 03-24-2007 at 06:48 AM.
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:29 PM   #5
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stick it
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:30 PM   #6
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PMed. Stick it por favor.
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One Ion owner that used another kind of "Slick Honey" on his gun...
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Originally Posted by vtpaintballer View Post
I used the honey from the bear container and mixed it with water to make it slick. Is that bad?
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:40 PM   #7
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Nice Job, this would be a great sicky. This should help many people, and should abolish annoying threads.
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:52 PM   #8
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Perfect. Now, hopefully the mods will sticky this.

EDIT: Wow, that was quick...
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One Ion owner that used another kind of "Slick Honey" on his gun...
Quote:
Originally Posted by vtpaintballer View Post
I used the honey from the bear container and mixed it with water to make it slick. Is that bad?
Blue Invert Mini
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Vlocity, PE 68/4500

Last edited by Hawkeye1050 : 03-15-2007 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 03-15-2007, 05:03 PM   #9
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dang it was quick.
be sure to let me know if there is anything wrong in there.

thanks again
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:20 AM   #10
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Nice Job.

There is really nothing more annoying than experiencing shoot-down. I spend quite some time (and paint) every week messing with these settings. I find I end up setting my dwell a little higher (15-17) than most people list for my setup (firebolt, NDz QEV and V****e board).

Would it be inappropriate to mention Anti Bolt Stick here? I find this feature significantly remedies drop-off/shoot-down and i think it maintains more efficiency than a higher dwell. (It's not on the stock board unless I'm mistaken)

I also encounter more consistent velocity with a good pinch on the paintball, for example yesterday I was chrono-ing dead on 300fps (+/- 3) with marbalizer and I think .679
At that gauge the paint was not keen on being blown out of the insert but the marker cycled better than I've ever had it set up since I started changing to aftermarket parts.
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Old 03-16-2007, 10:35 AM   #11
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I decided not to include things like Anti Bolt Stick in here and other aftermarket settings because they vary so much from board to board, and to explain them all would take forever. Plus, I don't know what some of them do lol. Usually, the manual that comes with the board or the manufacturer site explains it very well.

And thats interesting that the marker shot so well when you had trouble blowing it through the insert. hmm...

maybe some day i'll make an addition to the thread going a little more in depth on efficiency.
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Old 05-24-2007, 06:57 PM   #12
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would a new reg lower the dwell?
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Old 05-25-2007, 11:07 AM   #13
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no, i wouldnt think so
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Old 05-29-2007, 06:07 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by heysueskreesto2 View Post
Stock Ion Settings

It is recommended that you keep a performance stock ion at where it is under the settings. The dwell is set to 52 blinks when you buy the gun, and the most you'll be able to lower that is a few blinks, not enough to make a difference/worry about it/offer an up in performance. The stock settings work perfectly fine and changing your dwell may cause you some shootdown problems. My recommendation is to keep the settings where they are. The most you can do really is just bottom out the ROF.

**NOTE**: If anyone finds anything wrong with this thread (bad info), please inform me, either here, or by PM. It has been looked over by me and Uziel, so it should be pretty good. Thanks for your help and future cooperation.

Oh, and by the way, bacon wrapped steak filets are just plain delicious.

When I first bought my Ion I was very confused about the settings (and until I read this, I still was to be quite honest) so I called the SP tech dept and the rep on the other end of the line told me that the best setting for a stock Ion running on HPA was with a dwell of 35 blinks. I don't know if this is exactly correct or not, but that was the word from SP. Also, I was wondering if going through the trouble of getting a new bolt and QEV (which I was planning on doing within the week) is really even worth it without getting a new board. Besides increasing the marker's effiency, and therefor increasing the ammout of shots you can take with one tank fill, you can't do much else, right? No matter what, the gun will still be limited at 17bps on a stock board. So what's the point? I'm not trying to bash, or complain or anything. My point is more or less, to ask if making these upgrades (the bolt/qev) are really even worth it if you don't make the jump to a better board.
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Old 05-29-2007, 07:59 PM   #15
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I'm not sure on the 35 blinks thing, but coming from a tech, I can see that as a reliable source. I personally would not change it, but if someone in here would like to try and find the lowest dwell setting for a stock ion, then that would be nice and we could ammend that part.

As for the bolt and QEV upgrades, the two things do have other added bonuses. I mean, we could argue either way that the marker needs no upgrades as 15 bps is all you need, honestly. But the QEV not only allows for a lower dwell to increase bps and efficiency, it allows acts as a grease trap for your gun. Excess lube that would have gone down into the solenoid and such is instead released through the QEV to provide easier cleaning. If youre ok with a little lower efficiency/higher dwell and doing a bit more cleaning on your gun every once in awhile (its not that often), then you don't have to buy the QEV. But for $20, this little piece is a steal. I do recommend when upgrading your marker that you buy the necessities first, such as a trigger, feedneck, and ASA, but when you get down to performance, unless something is really screwed up/a lemon and you need to replace it, the QEV is going to be your best bet for first place.

A new bolt also helps increase efficiency through sealing the dump chamber (dual tail orings). But added perks are much less kick and smoother operation. Some bolts may be quieter when firing as well.

So yes, in my opinion, the two upgrades are worth the money without a new board. But it all bubbles down to what is important to you

But, do remember that upgrading your gun is your choice. If you're happy where you are, then you dont have to go and buy these parts, they are just suggestions for the future .
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Old 05-30-2007, 01:05 PM   #16
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I'm not sure on the 35 blinks thing, but coming from a tech, I can see that as a reliable source. I personally would not change it, but if someone in here would like to try and find the lowest dwell setting for a stock ion, then that would be nice and we could ammend that part.

As for the bolt and QEV upgrades, the two things do have other added bonuses. I mean, we could argue either way that the marker needs no upgrades as 15 bps is all you need, honestly. But the QEV not only allows for a lower dwell to increase bps and efficiency, it allows acts as a grease trap for your gun. Excess lube that would have gone down into the solenoid and such is instead released through the QEV to provide easier cleaning. If youre ok with a little lower efficiency/higher dwell and doing a bit more cleaning on your gun every once in awhile (its not that often), then you don't have to buy the QEV. But for $20, this little piece is a steal. I do recommend when upgrading your marker that you buy the necessities first, such as a trigger, feedneck, and ASA, but when you get down to performance, unless something is really screwed up/a lemon and you need to replace it, the QEV is going to be your best bet for first place.

A new bolt also helps increase efficiency through sealing the dump chamber (dual tail orings). But added perks are much less kick and smoother operation. Some bolts may be quieter when firing as well.

So yes, in my opinion, the two upgrades are worth the money without a new board. But it all bubbles down to what is important to you

But, do remember that upgrading your gun is your choice. If you're happy where you are, then you dont have to go and buy these parts, they are just suggestions for the future .

Duely noted. I did however, go out and get the QEV and a Tech T L6 bolt (I was planning on getting the upgrades for the sheer sake of getting more shots per fill, I was just curious what other gains could be had through these upgrades) and I tweeked my marker as per the instructions listed here. I did however, notice two things. One being the marker actually seemed louder, but that could just me the acoustics. But the one that did actually concern me was the fact that I dropped my Rate Of Fire (or recharge) to zero (I'll get to this in a second) and turned my dwell down to about 19 clicks, and figured I would work up or down from there as needed. The bolt didn't consistantly cycle untill I got to either 23 or 24 clicks. This number seems a bit high for what I've been reading and the upgrades I've put into the marker. I also properly lubed all of the O-Rings on the bolt, so it isn't friction that was holding the bolt back. So, I'm really not too sure what is up with that.
But yeah, back to the rate of fire thing... I turned my Rate of Fire down all the way to zero (as per the "rule of zero" which I found made the most sense) does this mean that I turned the recharge to zero, or that I was actually turning the rate of fire down by increasing the recharge. That little point has me a bit confused... but yes that's where I stand. I appreciate the advice you've already given me and I'd be quit happy with a little further clarification. Thanks.

EDIT: It occured to me that the sound from the marker may have actually been louder and not just the acoustics. I was thinking, and I haven't adjusted the input pressure at all after making these modifications. I'm running somewhere in the ballpark of 140-160 psi. This may or may not be hot for the upgrades I've made. I know I should lower the pressure at least a little but I'm not sure how much.
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Last edited by Volksjager06 : 05-30-2007 at 03:21 PM. Reason: I realized something I hadn't before...
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Old 05-30-2007, 04:11 PM   #17
heysueskreesto2
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The marker seeming louder can be considered normal. Many people when they install QEVs notice a slight increase in sound, plus the new bolt may be making a different sound than stock.

as per recharge, this is a very confusing subject and even sometimes I find myself bewildered
try following these instructions to bottom your recharge:

Quote:
In the manual the "Recharge" setting is labeled as the ROF setting. We now refer to it as recharge because it is a better explanation of what the actual setting does. In short Recharge is just an amount of time added to the dwell time to determine how fast the gun can be shot.

The higher you set the recharge setting the lower the Rate of Fire will be. The lower you set the Recharge setting the higher the Rate of Fire will be.

In the case of the stock board settings, you would lower recharge to it's lowest possible setting and the board will be capped at a Maximum Rate of Fire of 17bps.

The exact instructions of capping the board at 17 bps(Keep in mind the stock board has been set by SP to shoot no faster then 17bps).
  1. Open the guns grips and press the gray Programming button.
  2. Push the gray programming button until you reach the Single Blink Red setting.
  3. Now push the power button multiple times until the yellow led in the grip frame stops blinking.
  4. To exit the programming mode, push the trigger once. After pushing the trigger, turn the board off to save the settings. If you pull the battery, the new setting will revert back to whatever it was last set to.
im going to add this to the top post to help stop confusion

this part of the manual is confusing
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Old 05-30-2007, 09:58 PM   #18
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Ok, thanks. That helps.
But I'm still unsure of where my input pressure should be, and I'm afraid I don't have immediate access to a chrono. Any tips on where the pressure should be set near?
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Black SP Shocker SFT w/ Virtue board
-Freak Kit / Black&Silver Dye Ultralite
-Dark Frame
-NDZ Slik trig
-Limited Ed. 187NBK Hybrid grips
-Silver CP Shorty Reg
-Black&Silver SP Q-Lock Feedneck
-NOX bolt / NDZ HE black firing can
-'08 Hybrid Quarter-turn Bleeder ASA / Hybrid Rail
Upped Black SP Ion
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Old 05-30-2007, 11:16 PM   #19
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stay under 200psi
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Old 05-31-2007, 08:31 AM   #20
Volksjager06
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I know the max should be under 200 psi, but if I were anywhere near 200 psi I'd be shooting EXTREMELY hot. I was looking for something a little more specific, but if that's the best estimate I'll be able to get, I guess I'll just have to wait till I can get to a chrono.
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Black SP Shocker SFT w/ Virtue board
-Freak Kit / Black&Silver Dye Ultralite
-Dark Frame
-NDZ Slik trig
-Limited Ed. 187NBK Hybrid grips
-Silver CP Shorty Reg
-Black&Silver SP Q-Lock Feedneck
-NOX bolt / NDZ HE black firing can
-'08 Hybrid Quarter-turn Bleeder ASA / Hybrid Rail
Upped Black SP Ion
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