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Go Back   Paintball Forums > General Marker Forums > Low-End Mechanical Markers

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Old 08-01-2006, 07:51 AM   #21
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I've never taken out the trigger pin/sear pins before as my gun is brand new...I'm having a lot of trouble taking them out as I am hammering as hard as possible on them and they dont even move...Is this normal?
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Old 08-02-2006, 05:28 AM   #22
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trigger job

those pins will only come out one way,make you are hammering it the right way,one side of the pin will have some spline on it,should be visible if you look close,hammer it from the side that don't have spline
hope this help
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Old 08-02-2006, 03:28 PM   #23
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Alright heres an update:

Its been about a day now, no success. I've made sure I've been hammering the side without the splines or grooves. I've hammered hard and the trigger frame is elevetated as well so theres room for the pins to come out. I've manage to make many dents/marks on the trigger pin and it still wont buldge.

Are there any tricks, or anything I can use to make this sucker move?

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Old 10-19-2006, 08:04 PM   #24
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if you want a quick way to make your marker full auto mechanically, just put a pin in the oval slot on the trigger sear to keep it from moving back and forth. cut the pin to 1/4" length and make sure it is 1/8" in diameter or less. This will keep the sear from moving off of the trigger when it is pulled and keeps the sear from engaging the bolt until the trigger is released. This again will give you full auto but to return to semi auto you will have to take the gun back apart and remove the pin. If you want another way just go to Tippmann parts.com and order another trigger sear the one that comes with the egrip. It doesn't have an oval slot it only has a straight pin hole. This will make the unit fire full auto because the sear will always stay on the trigger and rock up and down and not back and forth. The price is I believe 10.00 plus 3 bucks shipping. This is for the T98's and A-5's and will work on any other marker with the same trigger sear design. Remember to look at your sear and make sure you order the right one. The older model 98's have an extention spring with loops on the ends, the new models have a compression spring. The sears are different for each. Another problem that you will have is getting your balls to load fast enough. Because allowing your bolt to just bounce back and forth like this speeds the gun to 30+bps. and the cyclone will stop operation after so many rounds because of back pressure. So if you want to be sure that you get a good feed you will need the Q-loader it is capable of feeding 30+bps. Give a message if you have any questions. Happy Hunting...lol
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Old 04-21-2007, 11:42 AM   #25
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Location: texas
hey i tried this trigger job and as soon as i cocked it and went out to test it i had a 20 oz on it and it went bye bye as in i pulle dthe trigger adn it wouldnt stop firing. it froze my gun. but luckily i had another
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:26 PM   #26
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My cousin tried this, and it didn't really work the first time. -_- I guess we gotta keep trying.
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Old 02-13-2008, 12:41 PM   #27
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2 easy ways to do this: remove trigger spring. The sear re-catching the hammer returns the trigger (at least for 98's). or you could replace it with a spring from a clicky spring.
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Old 02-17-2008, 03:04 PM   #28
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DUDE! This thread was 10 months old! dont up it.
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Old 02-17-2008, 03:10 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by redz22 View Post
DUDE! This thread was 10 months old! dont up it.
DUDE! Its been dead since Wednesday! Don't up it!
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Old 04-08-2008, 05:43 PM   #30
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Is there a trigger mod for Viewloader Triton 2?
I hate the trigger, it's like...heavy.
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:09 AM   #31
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I made a different mod for my Viewloader Orion. Made it a full auto. Here is it in action. http://video.google.ca/videosearchq=...ion&sitesearch=#
It used 3 oz. of co2 there.
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:35 AM   #32
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yeah this is cool i guess but why not just buy a pilot acs or something and take the trigger frame off it then sell the rest with your old frame for like 20 bucks less then what you bought it for? thats what i did.
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Old 02-22-2009, 11:26 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by SPRAYonPAINT View Post
yeah this is cool i guess but why not just buy a pilot acs or something and take the trigger frame off it then sell the rest with your old frame for like 20 bucks less then what you bought it for? thats what i did.
because back when this thread was started they didn't have Pilot ACSs. I don't even know if spyder/tippmann had started going electronic in 2001 yet
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