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Old 12-27-2002, 03:17 PM   #21
MCC
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Well I put the black spring in and it works great. Just somethin about the cold i guess.
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Old 01-24-2003, 03:20 PM   #22
CapnCrunch
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JT Customer Service

Okay, I know that JT customer service isn't always that great but I found out the places to cotact them so you can get through quicker.

Here is a toll-free number that is not listed on the web-site: 1-800-587-2246

Marker Technician: 1-800-587-2246 Ext. 5034

Website: www.jtusa.com

E-Mail: jtusa@jtusa.com

I hope this helps you out some.
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Old 02-20-2003, 01:06 PM   #23
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If your 5.0 or 6.0 shoots every other trigger pull then get a new battery.
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Old 03-05-2003, 07:07 PM   #24
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Converting your 4.0 to accept a Vertical Adapter

This is the procedure I used to accomplish the task.

The reason I did this is so that I could use an inline reg.

I used the benchmark VA with the collar. I purchased it from www.actionvillage.com

It is not to difficult to do. You will need a few tools. The standard stuff like wrenches and such for disassembly. But more importantly you will need an 1/8"-27 pipe tap. You should be able to find them at most hardware stores or Sears stores.
You will also need to change your asa, the stock asa/reg threading is metric and will not accept a new 1/8" fitting. You will most likely have to get rid of your stock drop forward because of the offset hole pattern unless you find an asa with offset holes or you re tap the stock drop.
Dead On makes Asa drop forwards with offset holes.

Alright to get down to it.

Difficulty scale:6 (1-10 10 being most difficult)

Read all instructions first!

Warning! The body of the 4.0 like most other markers is made of aluminum. It is a soft metal, be sure you take care in what you are doing. Any mistake will most likely be a lasting one.

Step one:
Remove the asa/reg, bottom line, fore grip/x chamber and set them aside. Remove the trigger frame, entire valve assembly including the valve, and bolt with hammer. Basically disassemble the entire marker.
What you will have left is the body with vertical feed tube and the threaded stud with gas tube where you had the fore grip. Remove the mounting stud with a wrench if it does not come off with moderate force heat it with a hairdryer for a few min on high.

Step two:
Now that you have that off. Take a nylon bristle brush or a stiff tooth brush and clean the threads in the body to which the stud was mounted. Now run the new VA in the hole till it is FINGER tight. Most likely it will not thread all the way in. This is where the tap comes into play.

Step three:
You will need to tap the hole a little deeper to get the VA to thread in all the way to the collar. Run the tap into the hole, you will encounter resistance after the tap is in a few turns. When you get to that point use a wrench and turn it in 1 to 1-1/2 turns BACKING it out a 1/4 turn for every half turn you make. That will break off any chips that accumulate during the thread cutting process.
Next remove the tap, brush out the hole and run the VA back in to check your progress.
Continue this process until you get the desired effect.
DESIRED EFFECT= Being able to thread the VA into the body and when the collar of the VA begins to reach the bottom of the body it begins to tighten up and you will need to tighten the last turn or so with a wrench. BE SURE the VA DOES NOT thread so far into the body that it enters the valve housing. If you use the collar it should not. Be sure that after you are done with the tapping process there are no sharp edges in the valve housing, that might damage your valve o-rings during re-installation of your valve. If any burrs are present they must be removed carefully with a small jewelers file, x-acto knife, or deburring tool, being careful not to damage the valve housing.

Step 4:
Clean both the threads on the VA and the threads in the body with acetone (nail polish remover) That ensures a clean surface. Apply Medium strength Loctite (Blue removable strength) to the male threads of the VA. (be sure to shake the Loctite prior to use) Now thread it into the body and tighten with a wrench so it is seated in it's finished position, and set it upright so no Loctite enters the valve chamber. Allow to cure for 12 hours before you gas it up and set for 1 hour before you mess with it to continue assembly.

Step 5:
Disregard if using a trigger frame other than the stock frame.
The trigger frame will interfere with the VA when you try to put it back on. So you will need to round out the front portion of the Frame so that it does not interfere with the VA. I use a Dremel with the small drum sander attachment, and sanded a crescent shape out of the front of the frame. But just enough for it to clear the VA. I painted the freshly sanded frame with emblem re finisher(if you know someone in the service it is called M-NU) but a matte black paint will work just fine.


Step 6:
Reassemble your marker using new fittings and/or gas lines and asa. Gas it up check for leaks with soapy water and you are all set.

This is what mine looks like when finished.

http://www.pbreview.com/forums/attac...postid=1034218
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Old 04-18-2003, 06:55 PM   #25
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Try not to ask q's in the faq...make a new thread out of your questions and then delete that post. Thanks.
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Old 05-03-2003, 09:52 AM   #26
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LOW PRESSURE

These are some Low Pressure Info posts:

Quote:
Originally posted by Stopguns195


Okay, since I have noticed a lot of LP Spyder questions going around, I thought Iíd write a FAQ for it. Here goes.

1. What is a LP Spyder and what are the benefits?

A LP Spyder is a Spyder that runs under 4-500PSI. People have been able to go down as low as 210PSI, or so theyíve claimed.

The benefits of a LP Spyder includes, but is not limited to: noise reduction, increased accuracy, less ball breakage, and if set up correctly, better gas efficiency.

2. What parts are needed to make a LP Spyder?

* Regulator - You need a good reg such as a Centerflag inline, Bob Long Torpedo, or a Mac Dev Gladiator. Any good regs will do, but some require springs to get in the 300 range. As I know of none of the regs I listed need those springs. You can get a Bob Long Torpedo or Centerflag inline at:
countypaintball and the Gladiator can be found at macdev.

* Valve - You need a good turbo valve of some sort. I have heard good things about the AKALMP Tornado, Taso turbo, and 32* Magnaport. Please note that if you have a compact style body (Compact 2000, Shutter, TL+, Flash, etc.)you can not use the Tornado; it only has a 50% chance of working and it isnít worth the $60 for those sort of odds. You can find the Taso and 32* at paintballgear.com and you can find the Tornado at g3pb.

* High flowing bolt (Not needed, but is for best results)- An open face bolt will also lower pressure. Good bolts are ones such as the White Wolf delrin bolt or Bandit N-bolt. Or you can do the bolt mod shown in the Spyder upgrade list at the top of the page. The White Wolf can be found at White Wolf Airsmithing, and the N-bolt can be found at Swan Creek Paintball.

* Spring kit - A good spring kit will help also. I, personally, like the 32* and Maddman spring kit. In LP setups I think that the best spring combo is a light main spring and a hard valve spring. The 32* kit can be bought at PaintballGear, I think and the Maddman can be bought at CountyPaintball.

* Vertical adapter- A high flowing vertical adapter will help a bit. I, personally, like the Bob Long Vacum chamber or the AKALMP Mitey-Max. You can do the vertical adapter mod to increase air flow, so you donít need to spend money to get a new one mod but I screwed mine up, so just read the Spyder upgrade FAQ if u want to know how to do it. The Bob Long chamber can be bought at CountyPaintball and the AKALMP Mitey-Max can be found at AKALMP.

* Barrel - A low ported barrel is a real good choice for LP setups. I recommend the Lapco Big Shot or a CP pro series. Iím not positive, but I heard high porting one peice barrels are the worst to have but donít hold me to that. The Lapco can be found at CountyPaintball and the CP can be found at Custom Products.

* Polished internals - Polishing your internals will help a bit, but not a great deal. Read the Spyder upgrade FAQ on how to polish them.

* Modified valve pin- A high flowing valve pin or modified valve pin will also help. I donít know of any valve pins, but if you read the Spyder upgrade FAQ again, it tells u how to modify it.

* Air source - In LP setups, you can use either CO2 or N2, but I recommend N2. CO2 operates at a lower pressure, but it still can have some bad side effects on your gun and not as consistent in velocity. I say sacrifice some money and a few PSI, or pressure, and get a nitrogen tank. You should note that LP setups sometimes require more air for the lower velocity you go. Some actually improve your quality. If u get a Tornado valve, it is supposed to radically increase your shots per tank.

__________________
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Setup:
JT Excllerator 4.0
AKA Tornado Valve
Light Main Spring
Medium Valve Spring
20oz Anti-Syphon tank with Smart Parts on/off valve
Ricochet AK
Dark Horizons Titanium Striker
Lapco Vertical Adapter
Lapco Chrome Bottomline
Macroline Air Fittings/Hoses
Chrome Bob Long Torpedo Reg
Chrome Shocktech Drop Forward


Currently running at 200psi; recocks at 100psi.
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Old 05-03-2003, 09:53 AM   #27
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Re: LOW PRESSURE

Quote:
Originally posted by Hsuve
These are my views on this:

A regulator is a regulator, in my opinion. Any reg will work for low pressure use, but I'd rather choose a consistent reg.

You can use the Tornado valve. Though people say there's only a 50% chance, I haven't heard of anybody yet that couldn't get it to work. Not only that, but if it's the highest flowing valve, I would believe it to be high flowing to the striker tube as well, to get it to recock more easily. Sure, your gun would lose a lil' efficiency that way, but I'm sure people would want a working valve rather than just a few more shots.

Another good bolt? Your stock bolt. There's nothing wrong with, other than that it's a bit restrictive of air at first. Remove the venturi in the bolt and you're good to go.

A high flowing vertical adapter is very useful in a LP setup. Without it, I've heard people couldn't get below 600PSI or so. While I had my setup a while back with the stock vertical adapter that wasn't drilled or anything, I couldn't get below 750PSI. Again, it's very important to a LP setup.

Though there are some websites repeatedly shown, there are others that, I'm sure, have great prices as well. Look around on the internet, there are many paintball stores, eventually you'll find a great one! These are ones that I recommend:
http://www.CountyPaintball.com
http://www.g3pb.com
http://www.compulsivepaintball.com
http://www.predator-paintball.com

To keep this thread from getting cluttered, this is closed, and if you have any comments in which you would like to add to this thread, please PM me, thank you.

NOTE: Over the course of time, I have been understanding how guns work, and what's benefitial, what is not. I have come to also understand that LP does not, in fact, increase accuracy, or lower ball chopping in blowback guns. However, partly the truth still remains, your gun becomes quieter, as you'll "pushing" the ball slightly more than just forcing it out. Also, if set up correctly, it can increase efficiency, though I often see that people choose to go as low a pressure and choose not to setup their gun properly for maximum efficiency. Accuracy has to do with ball to barrel match, not pressure. In the end, whether or not you're shooting a LP or HP gun, you still need approximately 90PSI to push a ball out a barrel at 300FPS. If you hook up a gauge to a regulator with an output hole and set it at 800PSI, I can absolutely guarentee that the gauge will not drop to 0PSI and return, which goes to show a gun does not pull all 800PSI from behind the valve. Ball breaking with blowbacks either has to do with a extremely poor ball match (Tiny arse bore barrel with a large bored ball), or main spring tension. The pressure applied onto the ball is still relatively the same, considering you can't change the pressure pushing the ball unless affecting velocity as well. It all depends whether you want the pressure to push it out real quick, or a tad slower. LP setups often require a heavier main spring to keep the valve open longer, and thus allow more air into the bolt to push the paintball out. I find this to be a poor decision to make, as if/when a ball comes halfway down the chamber, that strong mainspring will drive the striker and bolt forward with more strength than a soft main spring, and will make an awful mess of things. These are my new views upon LP, take them or leave them, it's up to you. If you have anything you need to clear up, or if you disagree with me and want to debate, feel free to PM me, I'm still here to help...


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Setup:
JT Excllerator 4.0
AKA Tornado Valve
Light Main Spring
Medium Valve Spring
20oz Anti-Syphon tank with Smart Parts on/off valve
Ricochet AK
Dark Horizons Titanium Striker
Lapco Vertical Adapter
Lapco Chrome Bottomline
Macroline Air Fittings/Hoses
Chrome Bob Long Torpedo Reg
Chrome Shocktech Drop Forward


Currently running at 200psi; recocks at 100psi.
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Old 08-17-2003, 04:12 PM   #28
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Recocking problems..

Hey guys.. I was playing with my 4.0 today at my local field and I had a few problems. I recently purchased a Freak and was impressed with the improved performance. Unfortunately a problem ruined the better half of my day. Basically, when I fired rapidly my bolt would suddenly de-cock. But the gun did not fully uncock, only partially. Meaning the bolt would stick forward half an inch and was unable to recock by the next pull of the trigger. This happened quite frequently and I had to recock the marker every time I shot about 15 balls quickly. On one occasion the bolt seemed to move forward to get caught on a paintball that was halfway down the feed neck into the breech, pinning it before the ball could fully descend into the breech. I know this isn't the barrels fault. Is this a hopper related problem, o-rings shot, or does PSi have any influence on this?

I thought I'd ask you guys before I decided to go to my local Pro Shop. Any good reasons for this or solutions would make my day.
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Old 08-17-2003, 08:00 PM   #29
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Yea this is fairly common with the JT guns. After I broke my gun in, the problem went away.
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Setup:
JT Excllerator 4.0
AKA Tornado Valve
Light Main Spring
Medium Valve Spring
20oz Anti-Syphon tank with Smart Parts on/off valve
Ricochet AK
Dark Horizons Titanium Striker
Lapco Vertical Adapter
Lapco Chrome Bottomline
Macroline Air Fittings/Hoses
Chrome Bob Long Torpedo Reg
Chrome Shocktech Drop Forward


Currently running at 200psi; recocks at 100psi.
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Old 08-17-2003, 10:55 PM   #30
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Yes, but I think I have broken in the gun, though. I've been playing regularly with my 4.0 for over a year. And it did happen in the past, though not nearly as much. Is there any solution?
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Old 08-18-2003, 01:02 PM   #31
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Polish your internals.
__________________
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Setup:
JT Excllerator 4.0
AKA Tornado Valve
Light Main Spring
Medium Valve Spring
20oz Anti-Syphon tank with Smart Parts on/off valve
Ricochet AK
Dark Horizons Titanium Striker
Lapco Vertical Adapter
Lapco Chrome Bottomline
Macroline Air Fittings/Hoses
Chrome Bob Long Torpedo Reg
Chrome Shocktech Drop Forward


Currently running at 200psi; recocks at 100psi.
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Old 09-25-2003, 10:54 AM   #32
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I merged the "JT Customer Service" (thanks Capncrunch) with this one. I also cleaned this thread up a bit.

Enjoy!
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Old 11-20-2003, 11:03 PM   #33
iparadox
 
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Obtaining Parts for JT Excellerators

I just stumbled upon a place that sells all the individual parts for JT Excellerators: http://paintball-adventures.com/mcart//index.cgi

As online distributor for Brass Eagle (listed at http://www.brasseagle.com/eagleville/defaultVendor.asp), they also carry parts for Viewloader products as well (finally, a place I can buy a replacement flip-lid for my 12v revy!). Of course being a distributor the prices aren't that cheap, but hey, if you really need to get that hard-to-find missing part you'd be happy to pay those prices hehe
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Old 11-21-2003, 08:21 AM   #34
getupk8
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thanks

thanks thats some good info it would have saved me some trouble before for guessing the o-rings for my bolt lol but its cool
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Gun Setup:
Bob Long GZ Timmy w/ New torpedo reg, WAS 2.7 Board, ashcroft gauge, 32 degrees gauge, red macroline, 32 degrees drop, bob long volumizer, skull eye covers, skull pull knob, halo b, jt gear bag w/ wheels, jt proteus w/ fan, 14" teardrop barrel, pbgear 4+1 harness, jt pro series gloves, jt blue fire jersey, ccl custom team jersey, 3000 psi air tank, jt tank cover

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Old 11-21-2003, 11:32 AM   #35
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I'm going to put this in the Sticky.
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Old 12-02-2003, 06:57 PM   #36
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help

when a screw my Co2 tank in there is a very little whole under the drop forward under where your co2 is screwed into the gun.. and out of that whole air is leaking y is that? is that normal or what?? plz help.... and when I unplug the Co2 air just comes blasting out of that tiny whole is that natural?
some1 plz help me!
Steve

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Old 12-02-2003, 07:19 PM   #37
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Replace the O-ring on your tank. That should fix the leak.
That is normal when you unscrew your tank.
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Old 12-02-2003, 07:37 PM   #38
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On the Jt 6.0 is there any way you can reset the life counter for the paintballs you have shot? or is that for ever?
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:04 PM   #39
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life counter is forever i believe. there's also another setting that allows you to reset.
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Old 01-20-2004, 10:00 PM   #40
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is there really a way to rest that life counter or are you bsing us? that would be nice, tell me
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