crazy question

boomo26 · 04-19-2004, 11:31 AM

Like the title says crazy question.
I have a Dye reflex ebladed. I played yesterday and the guy that was playing on my team had an eclipse cocker that he borrowed from one of the brass eagle all stars, this gun would straight up rip. What makes this gun so much faster then mine, can I get mine that fast?? I know it is was a nexus, but you would think I could at least get close By the way my eblade settings are below if you wanted to know.

Son 3
coff 25
cto 255
con 65
cdel 6
trel 5
bald 1
tpul 1
cmpd 2

VeNoM · 04-19-2004, 11:55 AM

What kind of hoppers were you guys using? With the same hoppers and the eyes "on" they should be pretty close to the same... What kind of internals do you have and do you have QEV's? ...

boomo26 · 04-19-2004, 12:02 PM

We both had eggys. No I do not have QEV's I am suppose to have them in this week. Internals--just the ones that came will with Dye autococker. Will QEV's make that much of a difference?? It was shooting about twice as fast as mine.

Ryan314 · 04-19-2004, 01:23 PM

If you are both using the eye, then simply he probably just has faster fingers then you. With the eye on, it will shoot as fast as the loader feeds.

boomo26 · 04-19-2004, 03:17 PM

I was shooting his gun, by the way it did have the new samurai trigger

Ryan314 · 04-19-2004, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by boomo26
I was shooting his gun, by the way it did have the new samurai trigger

That is definatly a factor in speed.

Bloencustoms · 04-19-2004, 04:45 PM

Interesting thing about the settings. A good place to start is the factory fast preset. Even with the eye on and factory fast, there can be improvement. What the eye does, is look first for an emty breech, then a ball. wiht the factory settings, this takes about 8ms. As soon as a ball has been detected in hte breech, it turns off the cocking solenoid, defeating the preset CON time. However, this isn't the only factor that affects your maximum BPS. The CDEL time is the time between the sear solenoid firing, and the cocking solenoid coming on. The eye has no effect on this time. The purpose for this delay is to allow enough time for your valve to fully open and close. Sweetspot your reg first, then adjust your velocity. Once you are chrono'd consistantly, you can begin lowering your CDEL untill you notice a drop in velocity. Bring it back up to the point where you saw no drop in velocity. This is the optimum setting for this time, providing you don't see any blowback up the feed tube. If you do, you can try a shorter barrel, or raise the setting untill the blowback disappears. Another time that is not shortened by the use of the eye is COFF. This is the time allowed after the cocking solenoid is tuned off for the bolt to fully close. The faster your ram, and the lighter your bolt/block combo, the shorter you can make this time. Another setting to consider is your SON. You probably will only get 1 ms or so improvement, but it's worth it for another reason, battery life. With your SON set as short as possible, the cycle time is reduced (albiet very minutely), and you will use less battery power per shot. Make sure to lube your sear as the manual directs. It will increase the life of your sear, and reduce friction, enabling shorter SON times. The same holds true for your CON time. The faster your loader, the more battery power you will save. The CTO time only comes into play when the eye is on, and doesn't detect a ball. This time can be used to set the maximum cyclic rate with the eye on and the breech empty. Factory fast has CTO set to 250ms. This is 1/4 second. This means you will shoot less than 4 BPS when the eye does not detect a ball. Changing this setting has no bearing on your maximum BPS.

Finally, after you have fooled around and optimised your settings for your current setup, you will want to know how fast your marker is theoretically capable of shooting.

The cycle time is the sum of your CDEL, CON, and COFF. Add these three numbers, then divide 1,000 by that number to find your theoretical max BPS.

EDIT: Additionaly, I noticed you have changed from the factory BALD and EMPD settings. Thes are to allow the eye time to get a good reading on the condition of your breech. Changing them can cause the eye to falsely detect an empty breech, and subsequently begin a CTO and slow down your rate of fire.

boomo26 · 04-19-2004, 07:05 PM

Good answer Bloencustoms I know I can drop some of my settings on my eblade I was probably going to do that before the next time I play.
Ryan314 I did not know the samurai trigger would make that much of a difference, I will have to invest in one of those

Kowz_76 · 04-19-2004, 07:27 PM

He also might have simply had the trigger adjusted better than you do.

Ryan314 · 04-19-2004, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by boomo26
Good answer Bloencustoms I know I can drop some of my settings on my eblade I was probably going to do that before the next time I play.
Ryan314 I did not know the samurai trigger would make that much of a difference, I will have to invest in one of those

Look, this is all you need to do... Set it to factory fast, turn the eye on. Then, go to your COFF setting and drop it 2ms down then shoot a string of paint. Continue to dial down the COFF 2ms at a time until you see drop off in your strings of paint, then up it 1-2ms and it'll be set.

That's ALL you need to do! Nothing else! You're limited by the speed of your loader and the speed of your fingers.