Playin PSP Need Help With My Eblade

[Alexh2020]

Hey guys and gals,
Ive had my ebladed cocker for over a year and a half. I need my cocker to bounce without compensating for trigger filter settings. I was wondering if any of you guys have secrets in setting the trigger stops or any parts that whould greatly help to decrease bounce to little or maybe nothing.

My setup:
sto ram
tickler reg
wgp delrin bolt with o-rings
kapp cocking rod
cp delrin ball detent
samurai trigger


Ive searched this topic before and it said to increase trel and trul settings, sweetspot the regs, and so on. Ive done all these things and still i have bounce like every pull i get 2 and sometimes even 3. I would like to use the filter settings as last resort. It slows my gun down too much. Thanx

[Ryan314]

If your marker (like mine used to) bounces with the factory TREL and TPUL settings (20 and 4), do not increase the TREL and TPUL settings, like you said, you'll be robbing yourself of BPS. You have to skip to lowering cocking mass, decreasing cocking pressure, and making your trigger a little longer and stiffer. I reccomend QEVs or TRVs if you don't already have them, they allow for lower LPR pressure, which can help decrease bounce big time. The best way though to decrease bounce is to use lighter springs, main springs and valve springs. If you haven't already done this, do so, it'll decrease cocking mass, and you'll be able to decrease LPR pressure, which will result in less kick!

[Groove1797]

My setup:
sto ram
tickler reg
wgp delrin bolt with o-rings
kapp cocking rod
cp delrin ball detent
samurai trigger

I'd get:
a nexus ram w/qev's
Hammer kit from jackal or the new E hammer
lighter back block
if you want to you can go ti or alluminum pump rod

[acdave]

He's not askin what upgrades he should he wants to know stuff about eblade settings.

BTW i'd help but i dont know **** about eblades

[Alexh2020]

anythinhg that helps me to reduce bounce just tell me even if its upgrades. Thanx

[acdave]

New back block, lighter bolt, and a new ram with QEVS.

[Ryan314]

Originally posted by acdave
He's not askin what upgrades he should he wants to know stuff about eblade settings.

BTW i'd help but i dont know **** about eblades

If you would have read my reply you would have understood

[acdave]

Originally posted by Ryan314


If you would have read my reply you would have understood

O that wasnt for you that was for the groove guy.

[Groove1797]

Originally posted by acdave
New back block, lighter bolt, and a new ram with QEVS.

I like how you talk smack then post basically my own words.


Also if you read he does not want to lower is BPS, soooooo he needs to reduce cocking mass, and make the gun more efficient.

[acdave]

Originally posted by Groove1797


I like how you talk smack then post basically my own words.


Also if you read he does not want to lower is BPS, soooooo he needs to reduce cocking mass, and make the gun more efficient.

Well no. After you posted that he asked what ups he needed to reduce bounce.

[Groove1797]

If you read ALL of ryan314's post it explains that he is telling him not to change his settings, because this will result in a lower BPS. In-turn, I listed the parts that will lower the cocking mass, and lower the operating pressure. This will result in less bouncing.

Ryan314 said:
If you would have read my reply you would have understood.

that was aimed towards you becuase you did not read or you misunderstood his post.

Either way Alexh2020 got what he needed.

[Alexh2020]

Im just wondering if any of u guys had bounce ang purchased trvs/qevs and after u put it obn had little to no bounce. Is there any good back blocks that are light but dont break because they are made out of delrin. Do u think i should ditch my wgp delrin o-ringed bolt and get an all delron bolt? Do u think a pumparm that is lighter will make a difference or even a delrin pull pin?
thanx for all the
help

[mariners02]

Ive had my ebladed cocker for over a year and a half. I need my cocker to bounce without compensating for trigger filter settings. I was wondering if any of you guys have secrets in setting the trigger stops or any parts that whould greatly help to decrease bounce to little or maybe nothing.

get the 3ds feather back block the 3ds pull pin and either the 3ds third generation airo bolt or the new lite stick or maybe the planet eclipse dart bolt but the 3ds products will be the lightest therefore reducing the cocking mass

[squanto]

I have one cocker with a sammy and a DARt bolt. I can't get that thing to bounce unless I really rack down the filters and make the trigger super super short.

Whereas my main marker has a stock eblade trigger and a superfly bolt, and will bounce all over the place unless I make the trigger longish and rather stiff.

When set to a pull length that I like, I can't get it to bounce. Try just getting used to a longer pull with more force. . . thats the cheapest way (although possibly not the "best")

[Ryan314]

Originally posted by Alexh2020
Im just wondering if any of u guys had bounce ang purchased trvs/qevs and after u put it obn had little to no bounce. Is there any good back blocks that are light but dont break because they are made out of delrin. Do u think i should ditch my wgp delrin o-ringed bolt and get an all delron bolt? Do u think a pumparm that is lighter will make a difference or even a delrin pull pin?
thanx for all the
help

Well, I guess I can say it did because when you use TRVs/QEVs, they allow for lower cocking pressure, resulting in less kick.

www.3dspaintball.com has an all delrin back block that supposedly is really good and won't crack. And, if it does crack, they will replace it for free. I'm currently looking into one of these, but I'm not too keen on how they look.

The WGP Worr-Blade bolt is alright, it's still a little heavy because it does have the metal bolt detent inside. Again, www.3dspaintball.com is coming out with an 18 gram all delrin bolt soon, which I'm probably going to get.

I have not tried any other pump arm then a regular SS one, so I'm not real sure. I would definitely get a delrin pull pin though, you may think it's not worth it, but a little goes a long way.

The biggest and best way to reduce kick/bounce is to get lighter springs. That played the biggest role on my setup on reducing bounce. I used to have just stock springs and it would bounce like crazy, but I swapped them out for a lighter set up of madmann springs and it made a huge difference, resulting in lower LPR pressure = less kick = less bounce!

[Uziel Gal]

KAPP make aluminium pump arms, which will be lighter than a stock steel one, and slightly lighter than a titanium one, but the difference won't be huge, and the rod threads will be a little fragile, but should last OK as long as your back block isn't hitting the body.

You can also get titanium cocking rods, but again, these won't make a great deal of difference, but as Ryan says, every little helps.

As well as the 3Ds delrin back block, there is also the aluminium Slik back block. These used to have a tendency to fracture around the pump rod thread, but the Mk3 version has apparently cured this problem.

Another slightly less common item is the Extreme Rage titanium hammer. Much less kick and vibration through the marker, but requires weird springing. Normally you would use a light hammer spring, and heavier valve spring to get good efficiency. Due to the lighter weight of the titanium hammer, you need to use a light valve spring as well. The hammer will have less momentum than a steel one, and so will open the valve less, allowing the light valve spring to close it quickly. I haven't had a chance to do a lot of experimentation with mine, but it should work in theory, though you would probably lose some degree of efficiency over a normal set up. I wouldn't take this route unless you cannot cure the bounce any other way.

As Ryan says, your spring balance (and consequently LPR pressure) will have quite an affect, so it is worth investing in a good set of springs, and spending some time tuning the spring tensions. Probably the lightest set of springs you are going to find is the Belsales/Planet Eclipse spring set, which has hammer springs that are both shorter and lighter then normal Nelson style springs. By matching them with a lighter valve spring as well, velocity and efficiency is comparable to a normal spring set up.

[vantrepes]

First, look at your CON and COFF, and LPR settings.

Put a ball in the chamber and one feed tube, turn the eye off, and set the CON so that the ball will feed reliably. This is the correct way to use the eye. You want the eye to speed up the cycle of the gun to match the loader, not slow it down to compensate for the loader.

Now set the CDEL so there is no blow back in the feed tube. If you have a bolt that seals well, you can also tune it for suction.

Now, set the COFF time so there is no noticeable shoot down in long strings. You don't need it super low, since without bounce, you aren't going to be shooting 19 bps anyway.

Now, set the LPR so that it re-cocks the gun reliably at those settings.

If you had the COFF time super short, you will be able to lower the LPR quite a bit. This will give the gun a smoother cycle, and reduce bounce.

On the trigger, you can also make it more difficult to bounce using the set screws.
If you like a softer pull, then set the trigger to fire at the start of the pull, where the magnet is strongest. This will help by limiting the "flopping trigger" that makes it count as a reset trigger, and then another shot on the bounce.
For snappier pulls, set it at the back of the pull, so the trigger is pulled quickly, and completely away with every shot.
Shorter, stiff trigger settings are going to be much harder to bounce than a longer, softer one with the firing point set at the extreme ends of the trigger.

You can do the above without buying new parts, so try those first.

After that, get a spring kit, and work on using a softer main spring to lower the LPR setting required. That will reducing the force needed to re-cock the gun, and in turn, reduce bounce in the trigger.