How to make a Spump.

[pinkanese]

Here is how I made a real pump from a Spyder. I am not responsible for your gun if you screw it up, these modificatons are irreversible and warranty voiding. Don not try this if you don't undrstand what I am saying.

1. Get your parts together, you wil need:
-A Spyder with frame and all internals (I suggest one with a single trigger, it also will not work well if you have a quck strip pin).
-Phantom Pump Handle
-10-32 threaded rod, you will need about a foot and a half
-Some nuts for your rod about 4
-Some sort of shet metal or strong plastic
-Blue Loctite
-Lots of JB Weld

2. Get your tools:
-A dremel
-Cuting wheels
-Red stone grinding wheels
-wrenches for your nuts (be mature)
-whatever it takes to take apart your gun

Costruction
There are four major components to building your spump, 1. disabl;e blowback, 2. make it rear cocking, 3. make it closed bolt, and 4. add a pump arm.

Disabling Blowback
First take off you r front block and pull out your valve pin. You are just going to put a little JB Weld on the flat spot. after it dries sand it down so it is round like the rest of the pin and make sure it fits. That is allyou have to do, it will not stop it completely but with the other mods you are going to do it will be enoguh.

Making It Rear Cocking
Read Otter's guide found here Here
For the rod just use a piece of your threaded rod about 4.5" long.

Making it Closed Bolt
First you need to take apat your gun. Next get your striker and your Dremel with Grinding wheels. You are going to mill about .25" of the top of the striker. Take it slow and move back and forth as you go to get levle cut. You need to start the cut about midway through the bolt pin hole and go all the way to the front. It would also be a good idea to polish it while you are doing this.

In this picture you can see teh upper tube stop from my Compact which is doubling as a return spring stop.

Making a Pump Mechanism
The first thing to do is to make a Backblock. take a small piece of metal, I used steel plating, and drill a hole in the corner, I am not sure what size jsut make it big enough for the rod to slide through. After you have the piece with a hole, slide it over your cocing rod. mark where the slots in the side of tghe body line up and dril twoi more holes. Make sure it fits I had to make 4 of these little buggers and the one on there is still not perfect so make sure you hae some extra.

After you have the block right get a nut and thread it on to the rod. this will help to hold the backblock innplace. position it just behind the RVA, so the Backblock doesn't hit it. Locktite this nut in place and let it dry overnight. After it is tight, slide the backclobk on to the cocking rod and thread anothe nut over it, make it failry tight, you don't want a loose pump stoke. Now it is time for the pump arms. Use about 12" of threaded rod or however long you want it to be as long as it clears the LPC. After you have them cut secure them down to the back lock like you did the cocking rod. It should be routed through the slots running down each side of the body. leave these in place, tape them down if you want to while you work on the handle, you will need them to be in place later. Next is the handlee itself, I suggest gettign one form a Phantom, you cna get htem for aput $10 used or new for under $20. The hole int eh Pump handle is 10-32 threads so jsut screw yoour threaded rod in till it is tight. Inbt he secound picture you cna see how I made a stop to keep the pump handle form rotating on my barrle, simply cut down your detent cover, cut a small piece of sheet metal adn drill one hole in it. There are no exact specifications for this so just do it by eye or trila and error.



Well tha tis pretty much all there is to it. You may also consider making a 10rd stickk feed for it, the tut for that is in the Pump Marker section. I am not quite finished with mine yet as you can see I will get some updated picture after I paint it. If any part seems unclear just post and I will try to explain it. I know there aren't many pictures, if you want more just shout.

[gdog5]

Ive thought of doing this many times. Instead of having that back piece though, i would make slots in the top tube and attach the pump arm directly to the bolt. Then have spring right where you have it behind the bolt and same striker design. Did you have any problems with wear on the jb weld on the valve pin? Ive thought of doing this to my sonix....I also have a dye single trigger frame that would be perfect.....and a pvc stock class feed made for powerfeed guns...

Nice step by step direction and photos btw

[ta2maki]

Wow, you seriously mangled the hammer. Since you used a compact which has the cocking lever on the hammer, this is what I would have done. Instead of cutting up the hammer, just remove the pin that connects the bolt to the hammer. You will need to cock the gun after gassing up. but your pump stroke would only involve moving the bolt back and forth, making a very smooth pump stroke.

[pinkanese]

There is no way I will ever do this mod like that I did it this way so it would be a true pump not just some cheese independent bolt Spyder. Now then gdog5, I have not aired it up yet so I cna't comment on the wear but I doubt yo will get much.

[spyder_013]

how is it not a pump if it is independent bolt, many pumps i have seen are independent bolt BB.

but on a side not very nice job i like the guide

[pball master]

hey witch one do you put the jb weld on ? http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r...5/DSCN0046.jpg

[spyder_013]

what kind of valve is that? but to answer your question it is on the pin. (the one with the spring)

[pball master]

ok ty

[black_angus1]

Well, actually, Ta2maki, you wouldn't even need to move the bolt at all. If the bolt isn't cocking back the striker, why would it need to move? You wouldn't even need a bolt in fact, jus something to direct the air forwards, and not backwards.
Pinkanese, how would you go about doing this with a marker that is already rear-cocking? Using an E-99 bolt in an Aggressor body, to be specific.

[christian_13]

you would need a bolt so it can seal the breech so more than one ball doesnt fall in.

[black_angus1]

Oh yeah, I forgot about the breech-sealing part. Well other than that, I'm correct.

[killer angel]

how would you go about doing that with a viewloader orion

[Tweeter]

same way. VL orions are pretty much spyders (with a lower quality standards)

[Spartan36]

I've thought about doing this, but rather than remove the bolt pin, or mangle the striker as badly as you did, just extend the hole in the striker for the bolt pin until it almost touches the o-ring. This way, you could eliminate the back block entirely and attach the pump arm to the bolt. the bolt would be able to pull the striker back, and then return to the closed position.
To eliminate blowback on the striker, you could either create a larger exhaust hole or find a way (o-ring, possibly) to plug up the little space that the air comes through on the valve pin. Also, you could even go so far as cut a hole in the front of the striker so that air passes through it rather than push it back.
FYI: I am using a Spyder Victor II

[Cookie Monster]

umm at "making it rear cocking" wuld you have to do that step if you had a gun like a victor or xtra(non-side-cocking)?

[squalledout338]

you need to talk to spydermike on PBN.... his looks great.

[Kissthe98custom]

so i could do this with my old beat-up vl triad?

[pinkanese]

Spartan36, you could do it tath way I had originally planned to but didn't have the right tools to slot the striker, and you have to cut all the way to the end I believe to make it work.

Kissthe98custom, yes you could.

[Coffinstuffer]

Couldnt this theoretically be done to.. pretty much any stack-tubed blowback?

[pinkanese]

yep