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Old 04-18-2005, 01:21 PM   #1
toothpastedog
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Post Upgrade Guide

Mike the TPD’s Upgrade Guide

PART I

Bolts:

-A new bolt is a very good addition to your new impulse. Many custom impulses, if not all other than 32* Impulses, come with new bolts already, so with almost any custom impulse, you will not need a new bolt-it will be something to upgrade once you have nothing left to by and have gone so far as to buy a New Designz’s Solenoid tray.
-The stock bolt is made from aluminum. A delrin bolt for the impulse is a must. With a delrin bolt, you will not have to clean it (for the most part) or lube it (you shouldn’t lube delrin as it can slow it down as well as make it swell). Some delrin bolts, like the Equalizer bolt by New Designz, also uses different air passageways so that your impulse will be more efficient and consistent. The benefits of delrin can be found here.
-If you impulse doesn’t already have a delrin bolt, buy one. It is one of the few parts for the impulse that will make the gun function so much nicer… dare I say, like a high end gun? If your impulse already has a delrin bolt, don’t worry about it, since most will perform about the same. If you are buying one as a replacement for the stock bolt though, check out the New Designz Equalizer bolt, it is, in my opinion, the best all around bolt out there.
-There are different bolt lengths out there too: Stubby, 5", 3", Flush, Stock, etc. Having a choice of length means having a choice of wieght of your bolt-to malance out the internals of your gun. Check out the internal wieghts sticky for more info on this.
-There are also different colored bolts. The only two colors that make a difference are black and white, ironically enough. White bolts are better for WAS boards, because they are easier to "see" than black (white reflects light were black absorbs it). Having a black or white bolt doesn't make any huge difference though, so don't go out of your way to match you bolt's color to your setup.
-Installation: pop out the old one and pop in the new one.


Hammers:

-A hammer is one of the last parts you should have to upgrade, although this isn’t always the case. Functionally, no hammer is different from one another, the only reason there are different choices of hammer is so you can better balance the weight of your gun’s internals. Before reading on, you should familiarize yourself with Internal Weights and Cycle Speeds.
-Since an impulse is, or was, a mass produced product, no two will be, or perform, exactly the same. This means that upgrades won’t affect all impulses in exactly the same way. With bolts, sometimes a lighter delrin bolt (delrin is weighs about 70% less than aluminum), the internal weight of the impulse can be thrown off so much that the gun fire erratically, with a very low velocity, or not at all. Although tinkering with the input pressure(s) and dwell can normally solve this problem, a heavier hammer will almost always fix it for sure. If you have just purchased a delrin bolt, and are shooting no higher than 200fps, buy a brass hammer, the heaviest hammer weight out there. The brass hammer will bring your impulse back up to speed, and will make the positive effects of a delrin bolt very obvious.
-Installation
1. Remove the Hammer assembly.
2. Remove the Hammer Cap.
3. Clean out any Dow 33 from behind the ram.
4. For the next step you will need a 1/8" Allen key. The next step involves removing the hammer from the stock ram shaft. To do this you will first need to heat the hammer to loosen the green loc-tite that is used to hold it in place.
I recently learned a GREAT trick for removing the hammer form the ram shaft. Instead of a hair dryer or a lighter, use boiling water. Just remove all the o-rings from the hammer assembly. Once the water is boiling, extend the ram forward so it is open. Put on an oven mitt or something like it to protect your hand. Just submerse the hammer, not the entire hammer assembly, in the boiling water for about 1 minute, maybe a little longer. Remove the hammer from the water and be careful because it's HOT. Should unscrew VERY easily. When you feel that you have loosened the loc-tite, you will need to grip the hammer in a fashion that will not destroy it and use the 1/8" allen key to remove the ram shaft. The key here is DO NOT TRASH THE HAMMER, unless you have a new one to replace it.
5. Once the hammer is removed from the ram shaft, you do not need to remove the ram shaft from the hammer assembly, but I would recommend you do remove it and clean it since it's available. Do not lose either of the bumpers. That's right, there are two bumpers, one on the outside of the hammer assembly to protect the hammer from hitting the assembly and one on the INSIDE to protect the ram shaft from hitting the hammer assembly. NOTE: If either one of these bumpers are not installed, you will risk damaging your hammer assembly.
6. Using a little loc-tite ( I would use Blue ) thread the Hammer onto the ram shaft. Do not over tighten the hammer onto the shaft. Only use light finger pressure to screw the hammer onto the shaft. Screw the hammer onto the shaft until it stops, do not try and twist it any further on to the shaft.
7. Let the loc-tite dry for a couple hours before putting everything back together. [/color]


Rams:

-There aren’t too many choices as far as aftermarket rams go these days, but even if there was, there would only be one name you needed to know: New Designz’s Silk Shot Ram. This ram will eliminate “first shot drop off”, require less cleaning, and once it breaks in, cycle much smoother than the stock ram. It also weights a bit more than the stock ram, so it can help to get your internals weight just perfect.
-Installation
1. : Remove the Hammer assembly.
2. Remove the Hammer Cap.
3. Clean out any Dow 33 from behind the ram.
4. For the next step you will need a 1/8" Allen key. The next step involves removing the hammer from the stock ram shaft. To do this you will first need to heat the hammer to loosen the green loc-tite that is used to hold it in place.
I recently learned a GREAT trick for removing the hammer form the ram shaft. Instead of a hair dryer or a lighter, use boiling water. Just remove all the o-rings from the hammer assembly. Once the water is boiling, extend the ram forward so it is open. Put on an oven mitt or something like it to protect your hand. Just submerse the hammer, not the entire hammer assembly, in the boiling water for about 1 minute, maybe a little longer. Remove the hammer from the water and be careful because it's HOT. Should unscrew VERY easily. When you feel that you have loosened the loc-tite, you will need to grip the hammer in a fashion that will not destroy it and use the 1/8" allen key to remove the ram shaft. The key here is DO NOT TRASH THE HAMMER, unless you have a new one to replace it.
5. Once the hammer is removed from the ram shaft, remove the ram shaft from the hammer assembly. Do not lose either of the bumpers. That's right, there are two bumpers, one on the outside of the hammer assembly to protect the hammer from hitting the assembly and one on the INSIDE to protect the ram shaft from hitting the hammer assembly. NOTE: If either one of these bumpers are not installed, you will risk damaging your hammer assembly.
6. Remove the o-ring from the front of the hammer assembly and replace with the one provided.
7. If it's not already installed put the other o-ring that was provided on the Slick Shot Ram Shaft.
8. Put the Slick Shot Ram into the hammer assembly.
9. Put the bumper on the ram shaft. If you forget this part it will really SUCK to have to take it apart to fix.
10. Next using a little loc-tite ( I would use Blue ) thread the hammer onto the ram shaft. Do not over tighten the hammer onto the shaft. Only use light finger pressure to screw the hammer onto the shaft. Screw the hammer onto the shaft until it stops, do not try and twist it any further on to the shaft.
11. Let the loc-tite dry for a couple hours before putting everything back together.


Complete Hammer Assemblies (with hammer assembly, ram, and hammer):

-Again, the only one worth mentioning is made by New Designz; the High Efficiency Complete Hammer Assembly (comes with Mid Weight Stainless Steal Hammer, High Efficiency Hammer Assembly, and Silk Shot Ram). It is nice because, even though it will only increase performance to the same level as just buying a silk shot ram, and even though it costs more than twice as much as a silk shot ram, it is a lot easier to install. No heating of lotited threads here, just pop out your old assembly, and screw in the new one.
-Installation: unscrew old one, put lube on new one’s o-rings and ram shaft, and screw new one in.
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Here are some comments made by satisfied questioners:
"im glad to know there are real helpful people in these forums as yourself, i give my thanks." IMPULSE2ME
"You know some much about impys i'm starting to think that u are an impy!"-VwBillabongwV
"Ok, thats it... I cant take it any longer. How do you do it toothpastedog!?!? Do you have the Impulse manual tatooed to your chest..."-SPPaintball
"Holy Crap i just learned alot right there, i feel 30% smarter."-master_chadwick
"That's like asking the Pope if he knows who God is. TPD knows everything, including the meaning of life, which he will not share with us because our simple minds couldn't comprehend it." -nos911
"Yes, Toothpastedog is the official Impulse gangster (tm)" -Mai Thai man (SuperBeaner)
"I care, Mike....(dramatic pause)....i care..."-Master_Chadwick
"lol wow mike u really are a G...hahhahhahhahhahhaha
what a pimp " -wanabe TOSA
"We dont have to post to do our job, especially with people like TPD around." -wolverine
toothpastedog, come to Canada right now.-MBPG
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Last edited by toothpastedog : 04-19-2005 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:22 PM   #2
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PART II

Valves:

-Once More, the only one worth mentioning is the Radical Intake Profile (RIP) valve made by New Designz. It will increase you shot count by 30-100, and make your gun more consistent. Very good part for the money. It isn’t as necessary as a new bolt or tapeworm, but it is definitely a very high performing part.
-Installation: make sure to put a lot of lube on the valve’s outer o-rings.
1. Degas the marker.
2. Remove the bolt pin and slide the bolt out the back of the marker.
3. Remove the valve cap.
4. Once the Valve cap has been removed, remove the valve spring and valve.
5. Unscrew the hammer assembly from the back of the marker
6. Remove the two screws that hold the grip frame and solenoid tray to the body.
7. Separate the grip frame from the body. If you have a non-Vision Impulse be careful when removing the grip frame and solenoid tray and remember to disconnect the board from the solenoid.
8. If you have a Vision Impulse, you will need to remove the ball detent on the eye side of the marker as well as the eye cover. You will also need to disconnect the Vision eye board from the solenoid and then remove the two screws holding the Vision eye board in place.
9. On the underside of the body is the screw that holds the valve Seat (Valve Body) in place. Remove this screw.
10. Push the stock Valve Body out the BACK of the Impusle. It will not fit out the front.
11. Slide the included o-rings onto the High Flow Valve. Lube them with some Dow 33.
12. Insert the rounded side first into the back of the Impulse. When installed correctly the hammer will come forward and hit the little dimple shown on the left side of the picture above. Make sure that the ramped hole is facing up and the solid hole is on the bottom.
13. Push the High Flow Valve up into the Impulse until it lines up with the hole in the bottom of the Impulse body.
14. Screw in the valve screw so that it is flush with the body.
15. Put the Valve Cap back on. Do not put the stock Valve Spring back in.
16. Since it is out, clean and lube the hammer assembly. Then screw that back in place.
17. If you have Vision, install the Vision eye board, eye cover and eye side ball detent.
18. If you have a non-Vision Impulse, connect the solenoid to the board.
19. Attach the solenoid tray and trigger frame to the body.
20. Put the bolt back. Make sure it's not upside down and make sure that the bolt pin catches the hammer.
21. Last step, load it up and enjoy!!!


Delrin, Stainless Steal, Aluminum, or Titanium Bolt Pins:

-There can be one of the last upgrades you buy, as they don’t really do to much. They are like the icing on the cake, the finishing touch in balancing out your internals. The only thing they do besides balancing internal weight, is to centralize the mass being moved by the ram on the ram and hammer, which means less kick and smoother shooting-although it isn’t as noticeable as I make it sound.
-Installation: pop out the old one and pop in the new one.

Solenoid Optimizers:

-These include tapeworms, lpr kits, and VFFs. Info on them can be found here. Some sort of solenoid optimizer is a must for the a stock impulse, as without one it will not be able to sustain high rates of fire or keep consistent above 9bps.
-Installation: http://www.kamworld.net/paintball/ImpulseFAQ.html

Triggers and Trigger Frame:

-If you want to shoot fast, a new trigger or frame is a must. The stock trigger is just down right terrible, it is worse than Syder E-frames’ triggers. Info on trigger frame and triggers can be found here and info on adjusting your trigger can be found here.
-Installation (trigger frame):
1. Unplug and remove the battery.
2. Remove the two trigger frame screws.
3. If necessary disconnect the solenoid and eye(s) are from the board (for Non-Vision, ECS’ed, WAS’ed, Morlocked/Preditoried, or Genesis’ed Impulses).
4. Remove the two screws the hold the board in the solenoid tray.
5. Install the board in the frame using the two screws from the previous step. Make sure you feed the battery connector down into the correct location.
6. If necessary re-connect the solenoid to the board (Non-Vision).
7. Attach the new trigger frame to the body of the Impulse.
8. ROCK AND ROLL!!!
-Installation (trigger):
1. Remove the trigger frame & solenoid tray from the body.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Remove the board from the solenoid tray.
4. CAREFULLY remove the the two c-clips that hold the trigger pins in place.
5. Remove the two trigger pins. Remember which goes in front and which goes in back.
6. Remove the current trigger.
7. Slide the new trigger into position.
8. Re-install the trigger pins (in the correct order) and put the c-clips on.
9. Re-install the board and plug in the battery.
10. Put the trigger frame & solenoid tray back on the body.
11. Adjust to your liking!!

Valve Caps and Hammer Assembly End Caps:

-Unless you have a 2001-2002 Impulse, a new valve and hammer assembly end cap will be completely cosmetic. If you are going to set up your own lpr on your impulse, you will need a trigger valve cap (as well as a lpr nipple or tapeworm for lprs).
-Installation: unscrew old one, and screw in new one-remember to put lube on the o-ring (for the valve and hammer assembly end cap).

Circuit Boards:

-A new circuit board, while not being a must, is a very very very very (you get the idea) good idea. The stock board is capped at 13.7 BPS, and Vision is capped at 20 BPS in vision mode, 13.7 in non-vision mode, and has the worst PDS system in paintball. Basically a new board will allow you to shoot faster, better tune the firing sequence of your impulse, and chop less.
-Suggestions are WAS (my personal favorite), Predatory (would be my favorite if it didn’t cost 300$), Mini-Morlock/Morlock (would be my favorite if it didn’t need to be soldered and custom mounted to the impulse’s electrical components), and ECS programming for the stock boards.
-Installation: will vary from board to board, check manufacturers web site for more info.

Notes:

Any other upgrade you see for the impulse will be purely cosmetic, so that means it isn’t necessary to buy it for impulse. The three most important parts some one should buy when they get there impulse (if it doesn’t already have them) is a tapeworm, new trigger, and delrin bolt.

View on Upgrades
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WILL BE OUT OF TOWN, AND OFF LINE UNTIL, AT THE EARLIEST, JULY 25TH

Mike the G
IQ Paintball
Here are some comments made by satisfied questioners:
"im glad to know there are real helpful people in these forums as yourself, i give my thanks." IMPULSE2ME
"You know some much about impys i'm starting to think that u are an impy!"-VwBillabongwV
"Ok, thats it... I cant take it any longer. How do you do it toothpastedog!?!? Do you have the Impulse manual tatooed to your chest..."-SPPaintball
"Holy Crap i just learned alot right there, i feel 30% smarter."-master_chadwick
"That's like asking the Pope if he knows who God is. TPD knows everything, including the meaning of life, which he will not share with us because our simple minds couldn't comprehend it." -nos911
"Yes, Toothpastedog is the official Impulse gangster (tm)" -Mai Thai man (SuperBeaner)
"I care, Mike....(dramatic pause)....i care..."-Master_Chadwick
"lol wow mike u really are a G...hahhahhahhahhahhaha
what a pimp " -wanabe TOSA
"We dont have to post to do our job, especially with people like TPD around." -wolverine
toothpastedog, come to Canada right now.-MBPG
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:28 PM   #3
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Haven't read it yet, I just wanna congradulate you for it before it gets closed as a sticky.
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:51 PM   #4
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yea same here, what is this your 3rd or 4th one is like 2 days.
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:57 PM   #5
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Sheesh, another attempt by TPD for a sticky. What is it...your 13th?
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Old 04-18-2005, 02:41 PM   #6
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19th or 20th. and yes, 4th in two days... that is, if coolt decides to sticky it.
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Here are some comments made by satisfied questioners:
"im glad to know there are real helpful people in these forums as yourself, i give my thanks." IMPULSE2ME
"You know some much about impys i'm starting to think that u are an impy!"-VwBillabongwV
"Ok, thats it... I cant take it any longer. How do you do it toothpastedog!?!? Do you have the Impulse manual tatooed to your chest..."-SPPaintball
"Holy Crap i just learned alot right there, i feel 30% smarter."-master_chadwick
"That's like asking the Pope if he knows who God is. TPD knows everything, including the meaning of life, which he will not share with us because our simple minds couldn't comprehend it." -nos911
"Yes, Toothpastedog is the official Impulse gangster (tm)" -Mai Thai man (SuperBeaner)
"I care, Mike....(dramatic pause)....i care..."-Master_Chadwick
"lol wow mike u really are a G...hahhahhahhahhahhaha
what a pimp " -wanabe TOSA
"We dont have to post to do our job, especially with people like TPD around." -wolverine
toothpastedog, come to Canada right now.-MBPG
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:31 PM   #7
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Definitely stuck. One of the most useful stickies yet. Nice job again.
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:55 PM   #8
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This helped me alot, thanks Tpd your my hero.
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Old 04-18-2005, 06:15 PM   #9
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Updated bolt section. Thanks guys
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Mike the G
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Here are some comments made by satisfied questioners:
"im glad to know there are real helpful people in these forums as yourself, i give my thanks." IMPULSE2ME
"You know some much about impys i'm starting to think that u are an impy!"-VwBillabongwV
"Ok, thats it... I cant take it any longer. How do you do it toothpastedog!?!? Do you have the Impulse manual tatooed to your chest..."-SPPaintball
"Holy Crap i just learned alot right there, i feel 30% smarter."-master_chadwick
"That's like asking the Pope if he knows who God is. TPD knows everything, including the meaning of life, which he will not share with us because our simple minds couldn't comprehend it." -nos911
"Yes, Toothpastedog is the official Impulse gangster (tm)" -Mai Thai man (SuperBeaner)
"I care, Mike....(dramatic pause)....i care..."-Master_Chadwick
"lol wow mike u really are a G...hahhahhahhahhahhaha
what a pimp " -wanabe TOSA
"We dont have to post to do our job, especially with people like TPD around." -wolverine
toothpastedog, come to Canada right now.-MBPG
Mystery Gun?
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Old 04-18-2005, 09:37 PM   #10
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dont mean to point out your mistakes, but maybe make it a little easier to read. like bold the upgrades (subtitles) and maybe skip lines between the numbers. just a thought...

also, i belive RIP stands for Radial Intake Port, not Radical Intake Profile.

couple misspelled words in the first couple paragraphs too.

Nice job!
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Old 04-19-2005, 07:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by ase
dont mean to point out your mistakes, but maybe make it a little easier to read. like bold the upgrades (subtitles) and maybe skip lines between the numbers. just a thought...

also, i belive RIP stands for Radial Intake Port, not Radical Intake Profile.

couple misspelled words in the first couple paragraphs too.

Nice job!
i'll get around to it...
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WILL BE OUT OF TOWN, AND OFF LINE UNTIL, AT THE EARLIEST, JULY 25TH

Mike the G
IQ Paintball
Here are some comments made by satisfied questioners:
"im glad to know there are real helpful people in these forums as yourself, i give my thanks." IMPULSE2ME
"You know some much about impys i'm starting to think that u are an impy!"-VwBillabongwV
"Ok, thats it... I cant take it any longer. How do you do it toothpastedog!?!? Do you have the Impulse manual tatooed to your chest..."-SPPaintball
"Holy Crap i just learned alot right there, i feel 30% smarter."-master_chadwick
"That's like asking the Pope if he knows who God is. TPD knows everything, including the meaning of life, which he will not share with us because our simple minds couldn't comprehend it." -nos911
"Yes, Toothpastedog is the official Impulse gangster (tm)" -Mai Thai man (SuperBeaner)
"I care, Mike....(dramatic pause)....i care..."-Master_Chadwick
"lol wow mike u really are a G...hahhahhahhahhahhaha
what a pimp " -wanabe TOSA
"We dont have to post to do our job, especially with people like TPD around." -wolverine
toothpastedog, come to Canada right now.-MBPG
Mystery Gun?
IMPULSE FAQ
Oww Owww Quiting

Last edited by toothpastedog : 04-19-2005 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 04-21-2005, 04:30 PM   #12
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First off, great job with the sticky. I am in the process of remodelling the Dye sticky, inspired by you all.

I was thinking about adding something though. Althoug Mike has written a very detailed upgrade guide, I was thinking of adding something more simple but didn't want to make an entire thread. It's kinda my upgrade order and things I would recommend doing. Here goes:

Modifications requiring no upgrades: These are only meant for people who know what they are doing, and they are not idiot proof. They can all increase the performance of stock parts without costing any $$$.

-First off, tune up your impulse. Get the settings you want. I would recommend setting the input to around 180psi, and adjusting your dwell until you get a good velocity. Make sure everything is cleaned and lubed properly. Even the most upgraded impulse in the world can get owned by a stock impulse that is tuned correctly.

-Bolt mods: Well this isn't necessary, but if you don't have a grudge against aluminum, it can make your stock bolt git-r-done. First off, change the o-rings preferably to something a little tighter, something that won't drag as much. If you have a pipe saw or something, you can cut off the rear section of your bolt to cut down slightly on weight and drag, but only cut it to the end of the second contact area (the second bump from the rear) because you need to leave the spring and bearing section.

-Ram assembly mods: This can make a huge difference. If you know how to, take your assembly completely apart. Replace all of the internal o-rings that contact the ram with new ones, preferrably Buna-N. This will significantly cut down on drag. Also, I would suggest buying a jewelry cleaning/polishing cloth, and polishing the ram. It will have a simliar effect to the slick shot, but it will be free. Make sure you grease the assembly lightly. Too little grease or too much will both slow down the cycle.

-Valve: If you have some sort of drill press at your disposal, you can angle the port to give better air flow, similar to the rip valve.

-Detents: This isn't really an upgrade, but isn't really stock either, but if you use a halo or evo2, I would get 2 vision detents and use an o-ring as a spacer so that you can tighten them farther into the breech and align them evenly.

-Max flo: To start I just want to say the old version of the max flo is more consistant and reliable than the new version. As for modifications, it doesn't need anything but a light coat of grease.

-Trigger: remove the rear trigger pin. It will give you a more adjustable range of motion.

Upgrades: Listed in order of priority in my opinion, with my personal brand recommendation. If your gun comes with any of these upgrades, keep what you have. Also, if you plan on an lpr kit, get that first and ignore the tapeworm. I also list a new board twice, the first time is if you don't have vision, the second one is if you already do. If you don't have any sort of vision, that would obviously go a little higher on the priorities list. Also, if you plan on a rip valve, keep your stock hammer, a heavier hammer won't help.

Tapeworm- any brand
Trigger- new designz pro-mag
Bolt- new desigz equalizer white stubby
Feedneck- ccm low rise
Board- w.a.s. equalizer
Hammer- new designz stanless mid weight
Valve- new designs rip valve
Ram- new designz slick shot
Board- w.a.s. equalizer
Pull pin- anything titanium
Lpr- new designz kit
Trigger frame- hsw v3 i-frame
Barrel- freak kit or dye ultralite
Body milling- eliapaintball.com superlite

There are plenty of other option, these are only the suggestions of a crazy 16yr old who happens to take his own advice and in doing so created one awesome impulse for very little $$$. Good luck, have fun, don't blow anything up, and always wear apropriate protection.
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Old 04-23-2005, 06:29 AM   #13
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You should add that the strange bolt is a good alternative to the Equalizer bolt.
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Old 04-23-2005, 06:56 AM   #14
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and for the BOARD: i would also suggest the ECS upgrade to either your vision or non vision cricket board.
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Old 04-23-2005, 09:04 AM   #15
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The Strange bolt is inferior to the Equalizer bolt, period. It might be cheaper, but if you're already spending this much money on upgrading your gun, you should probably shell out the extra 5-10 bucks to get the best.

I agree with the ECS part. If I were to do it all again, I would probably get that instead of WAS simply because of the price difference (assuming that I were still buying an Impulse).
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Old 04-23-2005, 09:09 AM   #16
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yea the price is ALOT better, but you also get similar setting that you can adjust just like the WAS board.
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:26 AM   #17
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having used both boards, my recommendation stands with the w.a.s. although e.c.s. is a cost effective alternative.
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Old 04-23-2005, 02:46 PM   #18
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Why? The setting flexibility, or the eye logic? If Vision really sucks as much as people say....then get WAS. But I've seen/shot quite a few Vision Impulses and they only chopped once or twice in a case of paint. I'm ignoring the dark paint factor of course.
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Old 04-23-2005, 03:22 PM   #19
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What didnt you like about ECS?
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Old 04-23-2005, 04:26 PM   #20
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even with all the programming adjusted, it still did not seem to have the same response and exacted tuning as the w.a.s. and the eye logic still blows. it's great for the price, but it is still based on a stock board, and has very similar code, and uses the same eye. it has more features, but that is the only real change.
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