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Old 01-25-2004, 05:20 PM   #1
Etang858
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TES not recocking

I took my tes to the field for the first time today, lets say it wasn't good. First the velocity was too low (messing with the reg didn't help) and the guys there fixed it by replacing o rings. then i put in a spudnuk'l bolt and same old problem. ball shot but dropped off after about 3 feet. messed around with the regulator and it started to shoot but not recock. i switched back to the original bolt and everything seemed ok. In the game tho the bolt would work then not recock. i would have to recock it every five shots or so. I got it working again but this time it would shoot and the bolt would bounce really fast and not recock. it looked like a bolt when you are out of gas. I had a full 3k/68 tank tho. All i want is my gun to be able to shoot and recock on its own using a spudnuk'l bolt.

I'm running a completely stock tes with a spudnuk'l bolt and crossfire 68/3k tank.

any help would be appreciated. thanks
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Old 01-25-2004, 09:10 PM   #2
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Well I had a recocking problem with mine and one thing i did was lube the striker and bolt real good and it allowed it to recock. Another thing is add a drop of lube onto the thing you screw the tank into. ASA I think its called, that way it will get into your reg and make it work good. And also make sure the bolt inst catching on the detent. I had a autococker detent and it stuck out into the breech and kept snagging the bolt. Hope this helps, Warren.
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Old 01-26-2004, 06:59 PM   #3
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Turn up the input pressure, that's clearly the problem. When you were "messing" with the reg you probably turned the input pressure down, causing the striker not to catch on the sear which caused the bolt to sputter, or as you put it, "bounce really fast and not recock". Just turn up the pressure and you'll be fine.
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Old 01-26-2004, 07:03 PM   #4
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i tried pressure ranges from 0-600 and i found that around 300-400 it would work the best. anything under or higher it would just have worse recocking issues. even in the good range it would recock a few times and sputter.
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Old 01-27-2004, 09:19 AM   #5
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Well for one thing it sounds to me like when you insalled the new bolt it was upside down.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:53 PM   #6
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nope

bolt was installed correctly
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Old 01-28-2004, 09:08 AM   #7
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i had that problem when my oring went bad in my regulator. what should the pressure be at on the tes
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:16 PM   #8
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could crappy paint cause the gun not to recock?

i tried the guy again today but with crappy paint that chopped bad. the cocking got all outta wack again. trying pressure didn't help. this time the reg seems to be dropping a little as i fire. does this mean i have a new leak?

whats the deal with sending it back to dragun? i need to put the stock bolt back in right? would they basically take apart the gun and test it making sure it works? thanks
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Old 01-29-2004, 08:05 PM   #9
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heres what i disocovered

i reoiled my bolt
shot 4 drops of oil thru my asa
my gun seems to be recocking fine
i walked the trigger on auto for 200 ish dry fires ad it reocked each time

i'm guessing it only gets messed up when i'm using crappy balls because last time when i used good balls no recocking issues. i'm not sure about the velocity tho. low velocity was what started this problem in the first place. hopefully i'll get to use a chrono soon,
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Old 01-30-2004, 08:56 AM   #10
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if you're having recocking problems, one thing to check are the valve secure pins. one located on the side of the marker above the frame. and one is usually located on the bottom of the receiver if you take the frame off. make sure no air is leaking out there because if it is there wont be enough pressure to push the striker back.
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Old 01-30-2004, 01:47 PM   #11
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how do i check it? thanks
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Old 01-30-2004, 02:28 PM   #12
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i just took apart the gun and looked at the internals. according to the diagram i should have a cup seal spring then a cup seal star and a cup seal. i'm missing the cup seal star and i never took the gun apart before. also it seems that the cup seal pin should thread into the cup seal, is this correct? the pin does not thread into the cup seal if this is whats supposed to happen. could this be the cause of all my recocking problems?

thanks
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Old 01-30-2004, 04:39 PM   #13
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to check the side valve secure pin, just put your hand beside it when u shoot, if air comes out, its leaking, you can seel it up with a bit of blue locktight if you're careful. you can check the bottom one if the frame is off, just check for air pressure coming out and seal if neccesary. about the cup seal star, as far as i know, it just helps guide the cup seal. if it is gone it really shouldnt be a big problem because the valve pin is support enough. even if it was gone, the valve would still open and this should have no effect on recocking, its always possible though. other than that i dont know what it could be . about your cup seal not threading, do you mean its on there right, you just can't twist it off? if so, dont try, it means its melted right on.
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Last edited by lucwil : 01-30-2004 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 01-30-2004, 05:43 PM   #14
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for the cup seal and the cup seal pin. there is one side that has a opening, should the pin be able to thread into that opening? my pin rests in the cup seal but the pin does not thread into it. it just sits there. if u look at the tes manual its number 46 and 45. 45 has threads on it and seems that it should thread into 46. mine does not thread tho. it mereslides into 46. thanks
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Old 01-30-2004, 06:28 PM   #15
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yea, thats weird, mine came with threads on the valve pin and inside the cupseal. perhaps yours was a defect or something. your best bet is to phone up dragon and ask them to send you a new one, and if it's their fault (which it is if theres not threading) they will send it to you for free.

edit: mine also didnt come with a cup seal star, so maybe they just havent updated their [crappy] manual.
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Old 01-30-2004, 06:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by lucwil
if you're having recocking problems, one thing to check are the valve secure pins. one located on the side of the marker above the frame. and one is usually located on the bottom of the receiver if you take the frame off. make sure no air is leaking out there because if it is there wont be enough pressure to push the striker back.
Yup I have seen the same problem in a few spyders and if the T.E.S valve system holding pin is the same then that could be the problem.
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Old 01-30-2004, 08:14 PM   #17
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ok, i test the valve system and everything seems fine.

from what i understand the cup seal pin should thread into the cup seal. my cup seal however does not have threads. it is completely smooth and the pin does not thread into it. i hear a clicking noise once i turn my gun barrel down at ground to barrel up at sky and the gun is cocked. uncocked i hear nothing. i think thats the cup seal pin moving around. hopefully i can get a new one from dragun and my problem will be fixed. thanks all
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Old 01-31-2004, 10:58 AM   #18
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does a spyder cup seal work on the dragun? would the threads and from a dragun cup seal pin fit into it and would the cup seal fit into the gun? thanks
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Old 05-02-2004, 10:21 AM   #19
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So does the spudnukl bolt work, I just ordered one, how is it for u. I have shot 500 rnds no problems on co2 so far, and I hope I won't have problems with my new bolt, will I?
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Old 05-02-2004, 10:36 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by commando1
So does the spudnukl bolt work, I just ordered one, how is it for u. I have shot 500 rnds no problems on co2 so far, and I hope I won't have problems with my new bolt, will I?
Yes it does work you shouldn't have problems. Also is there a reason for digging up old threads.
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