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Old 08-26-2004, 02:38 PM   #1
amzng_spyderman
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Exclamation the official leak thread

ok, you've got a leak and you want to know how to fix it. problem is, you don't know how. this is a guide to fixing the common cocker leaks.

step 1, locating the leak

most of the time you can hear where the leak is coming from. this should make it pretty easy to fix. if you're not sure exactly where the leak is, get some soapy water in a squirt bottle and squirt the area of the suspected leak. the part that's leaking will bubble giving you a visual confirmation of the leak's location.

step 2, fixing the leak

air fittings/connections - pretty easy. if the leak is coming from a point where air flows between two parts (like from a bottom line to a hose fitting, front block to lpr) then you need either teflon tape, loctite, or plumber's dope. first, remove the fitting. clean off any old sealant that may still be on it. do the same for the internal threads. i prefer to use a safety pin to get into the threads easily.

next, apply new sealant. if you're using teflon, point the end of the fitting away from you. place the end of the tape on the right of the fitting so the tape is laying over the top of the fitting. from this point of view you should be wrapping the fitting in a counter clockwise motion. wrap the fitting with 4-5 layers and snip the tape with scissors. this helps avoid those nasty teflon threads that can gum up your gun. if using loctite, simply put 3-4 drops on the threads. with plumber's dope, just use enough to fill in the threads, but you should still be able to see the peaks of the threads. bottom line, use it sparingly.

after the sealant has been applied, just screw the fitting back into place. the teflon will seal instantly, while you'll have to wait the allotted time written on the bottles of the loctite and dope.

3 way - this is all too common, but usually easy to fix. start by putting a couple drops of oil in the 3 way. pull the trigger a couple times to see if that worked. if not, try upping the lpr pressure. once it gets high enough the leak will cease. if that doesn't help, it could be the timing. depending on the 3 way, frame, and location of the leak you will need to lengthen or shorten the timing rod. finally, if all else fails, replace the o-ring on the end of the 3 way that's leaking.

ram - this is one to worry about. if the ram is leaking at the point where the ram shaft enters the back of the ram, then there is either damage to the shaft or the ram's rear o-ring. if no visible damage to the shaft is present, then it's most likely the o-ring. with luck, all it needs is a little oil. if not, the back of the ram or the entire ram itself needs to be replaced. keep your fingers crossed that this never happens to you because it's a real pain in the neck.

valve/"barrel" - think your barrel's leaking? think again. air is venting through the barrel due to a leak in the valve. some cockers will vent if they are uncocked when you first gas up. cocking it prior to attaching air will prevent this. but if it's a real leak, start by firing your cocker a bunch of times. 50+, dry or loaded. your cup seal may have come unseated, and firing the marker should pop it back into place. didn't work? put some oil in the asa and fire some more. when you air up, do it with your gun pointing up so more oil gets to the valve and ensures thorough lubrication. still leaking? take out the valve and replace the cup seal. if that still didn't work, replace the valve's body o-ring.

MORE TO COME LATER! i'm tired.
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Last edited by amzng_spyderman : 08-26-2004 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 08-26-2004, 07:16 PM   #2
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awright, that's a good start. i'm going to add more tomorrow, including places where o-rings may need replacing. if you've got a leak that hasn't been covered, post it here.
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Old 08-27-2004, 05:26 AM   #3
robdamanii
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DOW 33 on the o-rings of the 3-way does wonders in helping them seal and keeping them in good shape.

And to locate the leaks on airlines or anything external, soapy water helps immensely.
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Jeez, Rob didn't even let the poor kid take his barrel plug out.
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Old 08-27-2004, 02:51 PM   #4
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For more leak remedies, click here.

Good information.
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Old 08-28-2004, 04:41 PM   #5
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when my nitro tank was almost out my gun started leaking when i wasn't pulling the trigger and i had this problem before but the guy at the proshop fixed and the oring in the 3 way valve fixed and it suddenly when i was almost out of air it started to leak out of the 3 way valve. Some body plz help is it just me or are autocockers a pain in the ***.
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Old 08-29-2004, 07:03 PM   #6
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If you were low on air, it is completely normal. It will always happen, because the marker cant cock with such low air basically, so just fill your tank.

Also, I've had this problem before:

If you put teflon around the nipples of the ram, after wear/age, they will start to get sucked into the ram itself, creating a leak. To prevent this, just use loctite accordingly, and let dry overnight.
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Old 08-30-2004, 10:40 AM   #7
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so my marker is fine
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Old 06-01-2006, 08:22 PM   #8
rook785
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if all the nitro leaks out really really really fast from the threeway does that mean its the nitrotank thats broken?
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Old 06-01-2006, 08:31 PM   #9
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No, it means either your 3-way isn't timed properly or your LPR pressure is to high. What 'Cocker do you have?
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Old 06-02-2006, 09:32 AM   #10
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i use an 03... basically it was working fine then i was in very high speed collision car accident and while theres no visible damage at all (nothing bent or anything, even the parts of the 3way) its leaking very badly, as in you can see massive clouds of nitro coming out when you hook it up heh.
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Old 06-02-2006, 12:05 PM   #11
Uziel Gal
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Check the 3-way o-rings and the hose barbs for any wear or damage. If you cannot see anything obvious, then it probably isn't those barbs at fault (damage to them should be pretty obvious), so try replacing the o-rings.

It would also be worth checking to make sure that the front block hasn't been twisted out of alignment.
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Old 06-02-2006, 02:52 PM   #12
rook785
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how do I dismantle the 3 way to replace the o-ring? I've been reading through the super duper faq but i think it assumes more than I know... the only maintenance i know how to do on my own is oil it hehe.
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Old 06-02-2006, 03:28 PM   #13
Uziel Gal
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The actuating (timing) rod is connected to the 3-way spool shaft via a metal cylinder. The cylinder has two small screws on it. Undo the screw closest to the 3-way valve, and that will allow you to remove the spool shaft. The o-rings are on the shaft.
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It's just like a battle zone, you got a bottle and you're on your own.
Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze, none of those other weapons will faze me.

Hundred, hundred, hundred bottles on the wall, you wonder if you can drink them all.
Got to go home by 1am, the bottle wins the battle again.
Husker Du - "First of the last calls"
Back when I was popular
Supporting a friend:
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Old 06-03-2006, 11:18 PM   #14
rook785
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actually i went to unscrew that screw and found it was missing! I have no idea on earth what to do now but maybe that has something to do with the leak. But if the screws gone how would I remove the 3way spool shaft, just pull on it? twist it? (i would need to take off the hosing to screw it off)
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Old 06-03-2006, 11:31 PM   #15
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Are you sure they aren't on the other side of the collar?
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:14 AM   #16
Uziel Gal
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the collar rotates, so chances are the screw is on the other side of the cylinder. You need to loosen the rear screw (the one you hopefully can see) and then turn the collar to access the second screw. Remember that in order to maintain timing, you will need to turn the collar back when you have finished working on the spool and replaced it.
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It's just like a battle zone, you got a bottle and you're on your own.
Gotta be a Scotch or a Kamikaze, none of those other weapons will faze me.

Hundred, hundred, hundred bottles on the wall, you wonder if you can drink them all.
Got to go home by 1am, the bottle wins the battle again.
Husker Du - "First of the last calls"
Back when I was popular
Supporting a friend:
HustlePaintball.com for Spyder paintball guns, Dye Markers, WDP Angel 1 and of course the Hustle Hotties.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:55 PM   #17
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hey i've been trolling through these boards looking at the various stuff and found something that might have caused the problem.

what happens if you don't cock the autococker before you put the air on?
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:59 PM   #18
Dark Master
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Depending on the spring setup, there could be a leak down the barrel.
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Old 06-05-2006, 07:02 PM   #19
rook785
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when i was leak testing it the bubbles were so giant and coming so fast I could have easily mistook a barrel leak for a 3 way leak (especially since i had the barrel off). Guess i need to refill my nitro (why can't anyone refill nitro in metro atlanta i have to drive 45 minutes >.< ) and do the test again, but thats probably what it is because I had definitely forgotten that over my long paintball break (yay for freshman year in college)
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Old 03-22-2008, 12:31 AM   #20
elhackerlmao
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My wgp trilogy competition is leaking on a hole on the lpr, and I cant seem to find out why or how to fix it. Do you know anything?
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